PC3 request for a map. Two Brothers Single and K&N - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 35 Old 11-01-2012, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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PC3 request for a map. Two Brothers Single and K&N

Hey all,
I tried searching and could not find one, so here is a request to see if anyone out there has a map for same setup.
I have the Two Brothers C4 single slip-on and the K&N air filter. Does anyone has a map for that setup?

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post #2 of 35 Old 11-01-2012, 01:54 PM
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post #3 of 35 Old 11-01-2012, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think that's a right link... Can you point me in the right direction?

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post #4 of 35 Old 11-01-2012, 02:25 PM
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post #5 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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I looked thru the drop box, but not sure which one I would use. I see there are some for Sato setup, but nothing for Two Brothers and K&N air.
I loaded the 002 and 003 and 004, from Dyno Jet site, but it still not running right. It seems in 1st and 2nd between 3K and 4K it is boggling down like it's not getting enough fuel. Also seems like it will stall. That is why I wanted to see if anyone has a specific map with my setup. If not, I will just have to get it tuned...

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post #6 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
I looked thru the drop box, but not sure which one I would use. I see there are some for Sato setup, but nothing for Two Brothers and K&N air.
I loaded the 002 and 003 and 004, from Dyno Jet site, but it still not running right. It seems in 1st and 2nd between 3K and 4K it is boggling down like it's not getting enough fuel. Also seems like it will stall. That is why I wanted to see if anyone has a specific map with my setup. If not, I will just have to get it tuned...
I'm pretty sure I have such a map but am away without my laptop.
If you still want, send me a PM with your e mail address and I'll send you what I have when I get home.
But most of my maps are in the drop box.
Don't make the mistake of thinking that a map badged as being dedicated for a 2B 4:1 is going to be the best, because there is no factor for mapping expertise at all.
2B 4:1 is old stuff, correct ?
If so, keep in mind that their old stuff was generally acknowledged as not being very good.
Last, have you synch'd your PC to the bike's TP?
An out of synch PC really shows up at low revs and throttle openings.

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post #7 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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That would be awesome. I guess I just don't know what the labels are in the drop box to pick the right one. As for synching PC to bike TP, what do you mean? I am fairly new to doing my own stuff on bike, but feel like I learned a ton in last 6 months. Still don't know what TP means and what do I do to sync them?

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post #8 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
I looked thru the drop box, but not sure which one I would use. I see there are some for Sato setup, but nothing for Two Brothers and K&N air.
I loaded the 002 and 003 and 004, from Dyno Jet site, but it still not running right. It seems in 1st and 2nd between 3K and 4K it is boggling down like it's not getting enough fuel. Also seems like it will stall. That is why I wanted to see if anyone has a specific map with my setup. If not, I will just have to get it tuned...
Try the dropbox again.
Get to maps.
Get to mcromo44 compilation.
Get to 900RR subfoldder.
Try those too.
I did not load the 2B4:1 that came on the PD CD.
The PC site should have it.
Regardless of the air filter you have, as long as you have one and it's in a stock airbox, it should not be a factor in the RPM and throttle opening matrix you are describing. I had a number of dyno runs done with stock and then BMC filter, just to see the differences.

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post #9 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
That would be awesome. I guess I just don't know what the labels are in the drop box to pick the right one. As for synching PC to bike TP, what do you mean? I am fairly new to doing my own stuff on bike, but feel like I learned a ton in last 6 months. Still don't know what TP means and what do I do to sync them?
Hi, I just got your PM.
I have multi message info/instructional stored on hotmail that I can access from where I am at present. (there is lots of info, I mean lots)
Will send that to you next.
I think I have some 900RR maps in hotmail as well.
If so, will send you those too.
Can't get at the 2B map until back home.

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post #10 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Well, another turn to this is I have the PC3 serial edition, not the USB. So I can't use the .djm files. I have to use the .map files. The PC site didn't have the 2B4:1 map. I called them and they said they only have limited map for a 919 and 2B4:1 is not one of them.
So, by going to https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ra9j3gn4c...t%20919%20maps, which one do you think will work the best?

And the problem I'm describing, does it even sound like PC3 map problem? It does to me... I loaded a zero map before since I had stick everything when I got the bike and it ran perfect.

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post #11 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
Well, another turn to this is I have the PC3 serial edition, not the USB. So I can't use the .djm files. I have to use the .map files. The PC site didn't have the 2B4:1 map. I called them and they said they only have limited map for a 919 and 2B4:1 is not one of them.
So, by going to https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ra9j3gn4c...t%20919%20maps, which one do you think will work the best?

And the problem I'm describing, does it even sound like PC3 map problem? It does to me... I loaded a zero map before since I had stick everything when I got the bike and it ran perfect.

If zero map was OK, that tells me the PC unit is OK, but the synching and alternate map are suspect.
See your hotmail re the synching.
While software will let you convert map to djm the reverse does not hold true.
You need to have the old software and the new soft ware.
Print off a djm map, then use that to do entries in the old software to create a map format map.
Gotta run now, catch you later.

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post #12 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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WOW dude. This is awesome. Thanks so much for sending me the info. Lots of info to take in. Will take this weekend to educate my self.

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post #13 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I tried the Ben W map and it made it a little better, but not much. Still ton of buggling down in 1st and 2nd right between 2k and 4k. I will try the mw919mori4 map next, but I hope I'm not looking in the wrong direction here... Hope that it is as simple as a map issue.

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post #14 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
Well, I tried the Ben W map and it made it a little better, but not much. Still ton of buggling down in 1st and 2nd right between 2k and 4k. I will try the mw919mori4 map next, but I hope I'm not looking in the wrong direction here... Hope that it is as simple as a map issue.
You need a map for a 4:1. (for the reasons just explained minutes ago via Hotmail to you)
I don't have PC software on this computer I am using.
Go to the drop box again.
Get to the mcromo compilation.
Get to the maps.
In the 900RR conversion folder try the Simpson Racing map, but you'll have to convert it to map format.
In the old map format folder, try M112-004 which if memory serves me correctly, is for a 2B full system 4:1.
I might be wrong though, look at the Notes the PC software will display, it will say what it was for.
I really can't do more to help you until I get home again.

Oh yes, you have taken out as much throttle cable slack as you can, right ?
EVERY 919 ever built seemed to leave the factory with mega slack, and slack really messes up the fine throttle control near closed.

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post #15 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your help man. I already tried the 004 map. I think it's same one that you download from PC site. Anyway, I'll try Simpson one. And thank again... If you think of anything else when you get to your PC, please let me know.

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post #16 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
Thanks for all your help man. I already tried the 004 map. I think it's same one that you download from PC site. Anyway, I'll try Simpson one. And thank again... If you think of anything else when you get to your PC, please let me know.
Pleased to help, and will dig when I get home.
If you are spooked off from doing manual map conversions of djm to map, I'll do one for you.

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post #17 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Oh no, I'm good with that. That how I got the Ben W map. I printed off the values, and entered them all in the old software on top of the zero map and saved as Ben W.map and loaded it to PC. Hope thats right.

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post #18 of 35 Old 11-02-2012, 10:11 PM
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No, there is a MUCH easier way to do it, I believe you just do a "File/Open" and browse for the older map type, then do a 'save as' and it will automatically convert the file for you.

And you still need to take out physical slack on your throttle assembly if you haven't done already, and sync the Throttle Position to the Power commander (you do this with the key on, but engine not running). There is an action or command to do this somewhere up in the menus in the software.

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post #19 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so after syncing the throttle and trying out all different maps including once from PC website and maps mcromo44 sent me (tried the 900RR Header map and the Simpson Racing map for single exhaust), still bogging down. Any other map I should try?
Or could it be something else besides just a wrong map? Is there something i can do to test if it is a map or not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I noticed I have a little oil leak coming from the stator cover. I know it's fairly simple to change, but wanted to see if there are any write ups on the process?

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post #20 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
Also, I noticed I have a little oil leak coming from the stator cover. I know it's fairly simple to change, but wanted to see if there are any write ups on the process?
I will write one up for you:

drain oil (or tilt your bike and secure from falling), remove cover, scrape gasket, apply some sealant to the crankcase mating surface( about 20-30mm long on each side by the dowel pin to keep new gasket in place), instal new gasket, tighten all cover bolts securely. DONE

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post #21 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
I will write one up for you:

drain oil (or tilt your bike and secure from falling), remove cover, scrape gasket, apply some sealant to the crankcase mating surface( about 20-30mm long on each side by the dowel pin to keep new gasket in place), instal new gasket, tighten all cover bolts securely. DONE
And since that write-up is INSANELY too long to read, here is the summary:

Drain Oil. Tilt Bike. Remove cover. Scrape. Sealant. Gasket. Bolts.

Done.

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post #22 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
And since that write-up is INSANELY too long to read, here is the summary:

Drain Oil. Tilt Bike. Remove cover. Scrape. Sealant. Gasket. Bolts.

Done.
your write up FAIL. no torque value for cover bolts. I dare you to give him its value.

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post #23 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 02:53 PM
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your write up FAIL. no torque value for cover bolts. I dare you to give him its value.
Not according to LDH.

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post #24 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Not according to LDH.
you FAIL again. (with LDH this time)

Attachment 23127



I actually hate you right now as I caught myself shopping for garage furniture for about 30 min now, thanks to your other thread.

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post #25 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks . Specially for the short write up. I already knew most of it as I have replaced the gasket before after getting a new cover. I guess I either did a piss job placing the new gasket or it was a bad gasket. I'm going with bad gasket .
Anyway, didn't know if I needed to put a sealant all around the crank case or just some parts or not at all. My first instal I just putt the sealant where the wiring harness comes out.

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post #26 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
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Anyway, didn't know if I needed to put a sealant all around the crank case or just some parts or not at all.

a piss job than

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post #27 of 35 Old 11-08-2012, 05:04 PM
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I actually hate you right now as I caught myself shopping for garage furniture for about 30 min now, thanks to your other thread.
Let's just say I've done NOTHING work related today

It's what they get for making me salaried and working late hours.

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post #28 of 35 Old 11-09-2012, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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OK, so do I need to put the sealant all around or just in some areas?

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post #29 of 35 Old 11-09-2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
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OK, so do I need to put the sealant all around or just in some areas?
When I put my clutch cover back on my dirt bike I did a VERY thin layer on both metal surfaces, all the way around (all edges). Then attached the gasket to the main body of the engine (it will stick to the sealant, so it won't fall off) then slid the top cover on, making note of the slotted fitting pins. Be careful with your fingers at this point, you don't wan't to smudge the sealant too much.

Just remember to torque down the bolts like you would a tire, criss-cross the bolts, don't go in a line around the cover. And don't torque all the way the first time, just 25% or so, then repeat 2 or 3 times around the same pattern until you hit proper torque on all fasteners.

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post #30 of 35 Old 11-09-2012, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin View Post
OK, so after syncing the throttle and trying out all different maps including once from PC website and maps mcromo44 sent me (tried the 900RR Header map and the Simpson Racing map for single exhaust), still bogging down. Any other map I should try?
Or could it be something else besides just a wrong map? Is there something i can do to test if it is a map or not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I noticed I have a little oil leak coming from the stator cover. I know it's fairly simple to change, but wanted to see if there are any write ups on the process?
Still bogging.
No matter what kind of map is used.
Even though synched to ECU.
Hmmm.
Could be a number of things, and ignition could be one of them.
But the PC itself might be problematic.
Remove it, and see what happens.
But before you do, check all the connections again and in particular the crimped connections made for the needed taps, as compared to the harness type connectors.

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post #31 of 35 Old 11-12-2012, 03:39 AM
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I was wondering if someone could help me find a map for a debaffled stock muffler and a k&n filter. I using the 002 map from your drop box. its better than zero map, but a little sluggish at higher rpms.

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post #32 of 35 Old 11-12-2012, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
I was wondering if someone could help me find a map for a debaffled stock muffler and a k&n filter. I using the 002 map from your drop box. its better than zero map, but a little sluggish at higher rpms.
Drop the K&N and go back to stock. Most would agree here the K&N flows too much air.

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post #33 of 35 Old 11-12-2012, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Drop the K&N and go back to stock. Most would agree here the K&N flows too much air.
I don't think it is a case of flowing too much air.
My theory is that maybe the stock filter does a better job of damping out reversion, thus better stablizing the air box pressure that the MAP sensor is seeing.
The dyno runs I had done over a range of scenarios re stock or BMC, seat on or off to easier replicated side cover on or off, did not yield significant differences.
But I did see some fluctuations in the torque curve in the lower RPMs.
Keep in mind the LDHs work was on RC51s, and stock filters were significantly better.Aftermarket fabric or butchered stockers really messed things up. For me, the BMC was and remains a legit purpose, but for only ONE reason, namely a lifetime filter.

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post #34 of 35 Old 11-12-2012, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
For me, the BMC was and remains a legit purpose, but for only ONE reason, namely a lifetime filter.
This is exactly why I went with K&N as well. Lifetime filter...

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post #35 of 35 Old 11-12-2012, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpolunin

This is exactly why I went with K&N as well. Lifetime filter...
K&N was the same price as an OEM filter. I haven't had any issues with K&N filters with on-road applications.

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