PC3 Install woes - help please! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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PC3 Install woes - help please!

I hate wiring so much. The anxiety, the crappy black-and-white manufacturer's photos, the "this is suggested but we didn't include any for you lol" parts... GRRRR. Anyhow, I've run into one big issue, one small issue and one concern while trying to install my PC3 this afternoon.


Big issue is the red, smaller issue is the yellow.


Big Issue: The instructions say to find the opaque 2-pin connector in the stock harness. So I found the male end (dangling at the 2 o'clock position), but not the female end. I'm holding the PC3's red lines that I'm supposed to connect in line, but since I only have the male end on my OEM harness, I can only plug in one end. If I leave the other end on the PC3 connection open, will things still work?


I suspect that the missing OEM female connector is the wires that were running to the license plate lamp on the OEM tail section that I removed. If this is the case, and the PC3 will not function if I leave one end open, does that mean I have to find some way to reconnect that lamp?


Small issue: In the instructions, it looks like they have several inches of wire to play with when it comes to splicing the connector on. On my bike, I have maybe 1" of usable wire that I can splice onto unless I open up the harness tape which I don't plan on doing. In this case, should I splice closer to the connector end or the harness tape end to make sure I have enough slack to connect the PC3?

Concern: The instructions recommend using dielectric grease for the splice, which I do not have. Am I asking for trouble if I go ahead with the splice and do not apply any grease?

TIA.

Al
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 07:14 PM
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#1.
All you need to do on the red connector is get switched 12V power--with or without their plugs. Plug it in & it will be fine (seal up the other end to avoid a short).

#2
Its short & a bitch. The success of that tap is suspect with or without grease.

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks!

For #2, is there anything I can do to increase the chances of it not failing?

Al
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 07:23 PM
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This how I see it. You don't need to connect the other female OEM plug. The supplied power commander connector is a splitter so both your plate lights and pc111usb get power. So now you will have power to the pc111usb but not to your plate lights, which you aren't running anyway. You could tape up the free plug to keep water out.
I personally wouldn't use the splice that dynajet supply. It's a known fail point. It can cut completely through the wire in time. Best thing to do is carefully bare about 5 to 10mm of the grey wire and splice/solder your pc111usb wire to it. Wrap in tape.
Its been a while since I did this but I think I got it all right for ya. Someone will chime in if I'm wrong.

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post #5 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 07:23 PM
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Damn someone beat me to it.

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I've got some cheapo wire strippers, but I don't see them safely stripping off a center portion of cover. Any tips on how to do that or is there a special tool?

edit: Just watched some youtube... I'll give it a shot tomorrow by just stripping away some of the wire and wrapping the bare PC3 wire around it. I at least have electrical tape. If I screw it up though, I don't have a ton of wire left to make things right. I hate wiring.

Al
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 10:06 PM
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I didn't trust a wire stripper on that little wire. I went real gentle with a very sharp pen knife. I would recommend solder after you wrap the wire around the other.

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post #8 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Word, thanks. I've got a pretty sharp little pen knife that I used to cut acrylic, hope that is fine enough to do the job. WIsh me luck.

edit: no solder. If I'm super thorough with the wrap (thinking of splitting the individual strands and criss-crossing them), should I be OK with just electrical tape?

Al
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-01-2018, 10:55 PM
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Good luck with the cutting. I was sweating bullets!
Not too sure about not using solder. I kinda feel that's important in this type of join. Maybe do it your way for now. Get yourself a cheap soldering iron and solder up later. I got one and some solder for about $20. Very handy.
Besides you'll need one in a few months when the power commander cold start issue rears it's ugly head. To solder in the diode shunt.....Ha ha!

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post #10 of 11 Old 03-02-2018, 06:02 AM
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That connection should be permanent in some way, solder will provide the best connection.

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post #11 of 11 Old 03-02-2018, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Okie dokie. My pops has a soldering iron and some solder at his place, I'll do it up with tape for now and borrow his to finish it off over the weekend. Thanks folks!

Al
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