Part 1 - Cleaning and Restoring gold(brakes) - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 35 Old 04-13-2018, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Part 1 - Cleaning and Restoring gold(brakes)

Hello Folks,


I finally got my additional set of brake calipers front and rear in gold and I'd like to clean and refurb them and I'm in search of tips/tricks/recommendations:


Part 0 - Full disassembly:
0.0. Picture 1 - Any recommendations on how to remove these 4 bolts Why they have this angular design is beyond me. How are you supposed to remove without stripping them? (I definitely want to replace these with regular headed bolts)

0.1. Picture 2 - Any recommendation on how to get this bleeder thing out?


Part 1 - Cleaning and refurbishing

1.1. Apart from toothbrush + dedicated brake clear for cleaning the calipers themselves are there any other chemicals that I could use to remove brake dust from all the components?
1.2. Should I clean all the hardware or should I buy everything new again (where possible) ? Or what should be replaced vs cleaned? I can provide more picture upon request.

Part 2 - putting everything back together - TBD


If you want to help out can you reply with numbers from above so I know what you're referring to?



Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you




PS - this is part 1 of my attempt to resto-mod my 9er
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post #2 of 35 Old 04-14-2018, 09:25 AM
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I was thinking the tooth brush wouldn't be the best idea. A "parts brush" has long bristles and if you stab them into certain areas of the parts, they dig out the dirt.

A tooth brush is great for small, regular surfaces, but a parts brush being stabbed into those areas like the bolts really work well.

It's the round one here:

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...set-42595.html

The other concern is brake parts cleaner removing a finish.

I was thinking about the Purple Power cleaner, but IDK if it's any better.

I'm sure that gold finish will come off at some point, just don't know what will do it.

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post #3 of 35 Old 04-14-2018, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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cool thanks, what about kerosene? does that help with brake dust? I know it's pretty good at breaking down oils.

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post #4 of 35 Old 04-14-2018, 02:57 PM
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Find yourself some iron residue cleaner, non acidic.
All the hardware should clean up, unless corroded. Use a very light wet and dry paper.
Those angular bolts will fit a socket, same with the bleeder.
Pop your piston out with compressed air.
Use brake grease when putting back together.
I'm sure someone will jump in if I've given you bad advice.
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post #5 of 35 Old 04-14-2018, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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I pretty much managed to get everything off except the pistons, did a preliminary scrubbing and cleaned most of the calipers off.

Will use a soft wire brush to clean all the bolts and stuff, i see quite a bit of orange debris on some of them. Is it ok if I let them float in some wd-40 ?

I'm actually planning on hooking up my extra calipers to my rear brake so I can pump using that (I don't have an air compressor).

Will post pictures when I have all the hardware off and cleaned up.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Find yourself some iron residue cleaner, non acidic.
All the hardware should clean up, unless corroded. Use a very light wet and dry paper.
Those angular bolts will fit a socket, same with the bleeder.
Pop your piston out with compressed air.
Use brake grease when putting back together.
I'm sure someone will jump in if I've given you bad advice.

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post #6 of 35 Old 04-14-2018, 04:10 PM
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Do you have new seals for the pistons?

The main thing I would be concerned about is damaging the seals and the surface inside. After that, I'd be concerned about the finish. IDK what kind of finish that is, maybe powder coat, but I'd hate to see it ruined with the wrong solvent.

Take a few pics, IDK if we have any brake rebuild thread around here.

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post #7 of 35 Old 04-14-2018, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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No haven't purchased anything yet. Definitely will replace seals.


So far I've only used dedicated brake fluid for the calipers and regular tooth brush to scrub which is quite soft.



Pistons seem pretty stuck in there so I'll see when I hook it up to the rear brake.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Do you have new seals for the pistons?

The main thing I would be concerned about is damaging the seals and the surface inside. After that, I'd be concerned about the finish. IDK what kind of finish that is, maybe powder coat, but I'd hate to see it ruined with the wrong solvent.

Take a few pics, IDK if we have any brake rebuild thread around here.

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post #8 of 35 Old 04-15-2018, 05:14 AM
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I would remove the bleeder screw and spray some brake cleaner thru it. The reason is that you might have some stuff in there that can do damage if you simply try to force them apart. Soaking/flushing the inside with brake fluid should get rid of most of it. Forcing it apart could cause a scratch in the surface.

I'd guess there's a hardened sleeve in side, but doesn't hurt to be safe.

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post #9 of 35 Old 04-15-2018, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
cool thanks, what about kerosene? does that help with brake dust? I know it's pretty good at breaking down oils.
Do NOT use any mineral based solvent!
The seals will react with it, and if they don't swell enough to create a nightmare problem of getting the pistons out, count on them to fail in the future.

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post #10 of 35 Old 04-15-2018, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
No haven't purchased anything yet. Definitely will replace seals.


So far I've only used dedicated brake fluid for the calipers and regular tooth brush to scrub which is quite soft.



Pistons seem pretty stuck in there so I'll see when I hook it up to the rear brake.
If you have stuck piston, I'd suggest soaking the caliper in brake fluid for a couple of days.
Especially if the calipers were stored dry instead of flooded, in which case there is too good a chance there is some internal corrosion, your damp climate noted.
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post #11 of 35 Old 04-23-2018, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Bought this tool and worked flawlessly; all stuck pistons are out.



I'll be taking pictures of the calipers and the pistons soon.


Anything I should be looking for to determine if they need to be replaced or no ?
Or let me know if I should take any specific pictures.



Thanks
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post #12 of 35 Old 04-23-2018, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Bought this tool and worked flawlessly; all stuck pistons are out.



I'll be taking pictures of the calipers and the pistons soon.


Anything I should be looking for to determine if they need to be replaced or no ?
Or let me know if I should take any specific pictures.



Thanks
Do tell, where did that slik bit o' kit come from?

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post #13 of 35 Old 04-23-2018, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Amazon.


A guy on FB recomended it:
OTC 4799 Brake Piston Removal Locking Pliers

Seems you can get it all over the place. Works pretty well, though it does scratch the interior of the pistons if you don't tighten it really well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Do tell, where did that slik bit o' kit come from?

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post #14 of 35 Old 04-23-2018, 07:53 PM
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On your bolts, make sure they are not rust pitted. If they are get new ones as they can tear seals when floating on the machine bolt surface. Just my .02

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post #15 of 35 Old 04-23-2018, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try to clean them up and then take a picture.


Though I'm inclined to replace all the moving parts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ViralVendetta View Post
On your bolts, make sure they are not rust pitted. If they are get new ones as they can tear seals when floating on the machine bolt surface. Just my .02

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post #16 of 35 Old 04-24-2018, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Amazon.


A guy on FB recomended it:
OTC 4799 Brake Piston Removal Locking Pliers

Seems you can get it all over the place. Works pretty well, though it does scratch the interior of the pistons if you don't tighten it really well.
Thanks for the info!

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post #17 of 35 Old 04-24-2018, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Hello Folks,


Back at it again with the calipers fully disassembled and cleaned.


Now to identify what needs replacing, reusing or reuse from current Bike.
Suggestions on the parts below very welcome:

Pic1 - Shows all the bits and bobs from the calipers

1 - Going to replace with new
2 - Going to replace with new
3 - Going to replace with new
4 - Going to replace with new
5 - Going to replace with new
6 - Going to reuse from current calipers

7 - Going to reuse from current calipers
8 - Going to replace with new
9 - DEFINITELY Going to replace with new
10 - Going to replace with new
11 - Going to replace with new
12 - Going to reuse from current calipers


Pic 2 - 2 of the most "damaged" pistons. Pitting is on the side (facing the brake pad) the inner portion. Might replace with the current ones from the current calipers if they're in good condition


Pic 3 - Show a bit of the calipers. All the groves where the rubber rings sat are in good condition. No visible physical scratches or marks, which i guess is important for the pistons to create a nice seal with the rubber rings.



Pic 4 - all the pistons have a bit of line on the side, but they're all super smooth to the touch.


I guess all in all I can just replace the screws and bolts and keep the calipers and pistons. Given that they were in pretty good condition on the inside.


Any thoughts and feedback is much appreciated


On to the next part of this build. Ordering parts.
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post #18 of 35 Old 04-25-2018, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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I also saw that somebody mentioned that the piston seals have a little lip to them? is this true for honda or no? Is there a particular top/bottom orientation to putting them in? or no ?


Ari Henning from Motorcycle Magazine mentioned that the seals might have a direction to them.

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post #19 of 35 Old 04-25-2018, 10:44 AM
just send it.
 
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So when can I send you my calipers to be rebuilt? I've got them off the bike, in a box and ready to ship...



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post #20 of 35 Old 04-25-2018, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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No thanks, i've had enough scrubbing for a little while :P


Plus I'm in canada so no chance on cheap shipping.

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So when can I send you my calipers to be rebuilt? I've got them off the bike, in a box and ready to ship...

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post #21 of 35 Old 04-25-2018, 10:59 AM
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post #22 of 35 Old 04-28-2018, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Turns out the list of parts that I selected would've cost me 400CAD sooo I just ordered the rubber parts and will combine the parts from my current calipers and choose the best of them...

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post #23 of 35 Old 04-30-2018, 02:47 PM
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I'm late to this party, but I did a video on cleaning the calipers on my Tuono (did it as well on the 919, the RC calipers, 599, etc.) They were all similar.

Best trick I found to pop the calipers out was just wear a thick leather glove or hold a towel underneath it and pop it out with an air compressor. Worked great, very fast.

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post #24 of 35 Old 04-30-2018, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Some of them did pop, but some were more stuck than others.


Most reliable suggestion i've seen is the zip tie for each piston, so you can control how much the pistons go out equaly, while keep them in, to keep the pressure pushing on all of them, will try that for next time(if I ever can be bothered to do this again :P.


Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
I'm late to this party, but I did a video on cleaning the calipers on my Tuono (did it as well on the 919, the RC calipers, 599, etc.) They were all similar.

Best trick I found to pop the calipers out was just wear a thick leather glove or hold a towel underneath it and pop it out with an air compressor. Worked great, very fast.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilVwwUPU3sM&t=1s

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post #25 of 35 Old 05-05-2018, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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WOHOO rear caliper installed...looks AWESOME with the golden ohlins next to it too <3


Still waiting on some seals for the fronts, so those are still in pieces.
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post #26 of 35 Old 05-05-2018, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
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WOHOO rear caliper installed...looks AWESOME with the golden ohlins next to it too <3


Still waiting on some seals for the fronts, so those are still in pieces.
Looks great, but where's the close up and where's the front brake? It looks like the gold color didn't get damaged, make it look brand new. What all did you do, new seals, new rubber, lube... did you buy a kit or just use off the shelf parts mixed together?

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post #27 of 35 Old 05-05-2018, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Still waiting on some seals for the fronts, so those are still in pieces.


Yeah I just used toothbrush and brake cleaner, though close up it's not THAT great. And as previously stated when I saw the price tag of getting all the little screws, I just ordered fresh rubber all around.
And I did use a couple of parts from my current calipers and chose what looked like in best condition.


Close ups (the gold does look great):
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post #28 of 35 Old 05-06-2018, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Also, I didn't use an loc tight for the bolts. Anybody recommend I use some or no?


I'm not worried about the rear brake, but I'd really like to know for when I get to working on the front caliper... Don't want my brakes falling off or wtvr :P
Would blue loctight be ok? For the bolts that keep the caliper to the front forks ?

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post #29 of 35 Old 05-06-2018, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
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Also, I didn't use an loc tight for the bolts. Anybody recommend I use some or no?


I'm not worried about the rear brake, but I'd really like to know for when I get to working on the front caliper... Don't want my brakes falling off or wtvr :P
Would blue loctight be ok? For the bolts that keep the caliper to the front forks ?
I don't see how it could hurt. As long as you're in the torque spec, I can't see how it would hurt. I'm talking about the main mounting bolts, how often are these removed? They could be there for 10 years, so even if it's 'too much' you won't deal with it for a long time.

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post #30 of 35 Old 05-06-2018, 04:41 PM
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Looking at the bike manual the front caliper bolts are a special ALOC bolt. These are meant to be replaced each time. I believe they stretch easy. I know they break easy since I broke one when reusing. The manual gives a torque value without lock tite. So using lock tite may change the required torque. When in doubt it might be best to follow the manual especially considering it's your brakes. I won't even suggest an alternative or tell you what I did. Although replacing those bolts each time you take off the calipers seems excessive. Every time you want the front wheel off.

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post #31 of 35 Old 05-06-2018, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
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Looking at the bike manual the front caliper bolts are a special ALOC bolt. These are meant to be replaced each time. I believe they stretch easy. I know they break easy since I broke one when reusing. The manual gives a torque value without lock tite. So using lock tite may change the required torque. When in doubt it might be best to follow the manual especially considering it's your brakes. I won't even suggest an alternative or tell you what I did. Although replacing those bolts each time you take off the calipers seems excessive. Every time you want the front wheel off.
I just realized that when I did my fork seals, I had to take the wheel off. So it looks like I did remove my front brakes. Didn't replace the bolts and didn't use loctite.
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post #32 of 35 Old 05-07-2018, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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ALSO, i forgot to mention I got this little thing from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Makes pumping out the fluid so much faster and simpler. Definitely recommend, wish I had this ages ago.
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post #33 of 35 Old 05-17-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Recent update folks, finally got the last of the seals for the front calipers...


Will be taking them off today and will post pics I can

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post #34 of 35 Old 05-17-2018, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Kind of hard to believe that these front calipers 2002 came apart and the pistons are in better conditions than the others.


Just took everything apart.
No front brakes for now



Next stop is cleaning the bolts, then putting everything back together with the new seals
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post #35 of 35 Old 05-19-2018, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Part 1 complete.
Front brakes are still a bit squishy, I'll run it through a bit before doing some more flushes.


Once I get the rear painted blue, it'll look really nice. The gold from the brakes and suspension provides just enough highlight to make it nice:
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