Oil Leak!!! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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Oil Leak!!!

image-1755904187.jpg

As you can see from the picture I have an oil leak where the cable from the rev counter goes into the engine, is there an easy way te solve this problem or is it an expensive handling?? Any help would be greatfully appreciated, thanks

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 07:24 AM
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Suzuki GS500E/F? If so, common leak, you have to replace the tach drive seal.

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah GS500E, how did ya guess??

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 08:01 AM
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Oil Leak!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by papabear View Post
Yeah GS500E, how did ya guess??
My newbie rider friend has one. I have spent too much time helping him out with it of late - and we just did his tach drive seal as well. So I am (unfortunately) familiar with the bike.

Anyway, it's a fairly cheap and easy fix. Give me a few and I'll go see if I can find a link to the instructions we used.

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 08:18 AM
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Oil Leak!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by papabear View Post
Yeah GS500E, how did ya guess??
Okay, overview: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=31013.0

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58836.0

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=16725.0

They are wrong about 'all air cooled bikes leak oil like this.' But then, they all ride Suzukis and think Suzuki's engineering is a-ok, too. :P Sooo much I want to kill Suzuki engineers for on that bike now...

Anyway, I suggest you replace the external 'o-ring' seal band and the 'wheel bearing seal' type seal in the tach drive unit. These are parts 18 and 19 on the below picture of a 500E head.



Make sure you clean the unit up well when you remove it (one screw, comes right out after you remove the cable), lube the inner seal surface where the driveshaft rubs against it with grease or motor oil to prevent a dry start and seal the threads where the ferrule of the tach cable screws in with Teflon plumbers' tape. Put a thin film of motor oil on the outer seal band after putting it on the drive housing (part 17 above) but before reinstalling to make your life easier (it doesn't want to go back in with the new seal in place.) Be careful not to bang too hard on the housing as. it has an unfortunate tendency to crack and shatter if you hit it too hard while trying to get the old seal out, despite being made of metal.

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for your help.

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post #7 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by papabear View Post
Thanks very much for your help.
Is there anything else I would need te be thinkin on replacing when I'm at this???

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post #8 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papabear View Post
Is there anything else I would need te be thinkin on replacing when I'm at this???
Not really. I'd replace the tach cable on general principles as you'd already have one end off, but that's just me. They are cheap and readily available in the aftermarket so you need not pay $uzuki dealer price for that.

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post #9 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
Suzuki GS500E/F? If so, common leak, you have to replace the tach drive seal.
Wow, great guess!

Also great info for ME to know since I'm also helping newer rider with his GS500f lol. Thanks for the heads up.

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post #10 of 10 Old 09-06-2013, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Wow, great guess!

Also great info for ME to know since I'm also helping newer rider with his GS500f lol. Thanks for the heads up.
Both of you need to check out GStwins.com - their forum has a lot of info (and a lot of excuses for poor Suzie engineering) but does require approval for membership so you might want to sign up in advance of any problems. Also, the quasi-functional GS500 Wiki has a lot of information; the torque specs for the GS are critical because apparently Suzuki didn't build in much of any tolerances for overtorquing anywhere in the bike.

GS500 Wiki - Torque Settings

Make sure you don't overtorque the bolt holding the tach drive on, 6.0 - 8.5 lb/ft is what's required IIRC.

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