Oil Filter Change - Wrist Twisters
View Poll Results: How often do you change your oil filter?
Every oil change. 102 70.34%
Every other oil change. 21 14.48%
Less than every other oil change. 0 0%
I like bacon. 22 15.17%
Voters: 145. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Filter Change

How often do you change your oil filter?

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post #2 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 04:41 PM
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Every other OCI. I do swap filters regardless if I change oil weight for winter though. I don't know if it's necessary when switching from 15-40 mineral to 5-40 synthetic, but I do anyways. Anyone care to input on that?

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post #3 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
Every other OCI. I do swap filters regardless if I change oil weight for winter though. I don't know if it's necessary when switching from 15-40 mineral to 5-40 synthetic, but I do anyways. Anyone care to input on that?
It doesn't matter. I'll bet you 1000.00 your 5w-40 "synthetic" is simply Group III severely hydrocracked mineral oil.

I also go AT LEAST every OTHER oil change to change the filter. They get more efficient as they are used, as you probably already know. For those that didn't know that: Really, they do.

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post #4 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 05:01 PM
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every other here.... i probably wouldn't go as far as every 3rd... that might be pushing it as far as filter getting clogged (though probably not).

Though this comming up oil change, im going to check valves before hand, run it for 50-100 mi or so, then change oil and filter, even though i change filter last time... simply because id like to catch anything that got in the oil due to it being open.

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post #5 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackheart View Post
It doesn't matter. I'll bet you 1000.00 your 5w-40 "synthetic" is simply Group III severely hydrocracked mineral oil.
Cool, save me a few bucks on the next change. Don't know what Group this oil is categorized in.....:

not another oil thread!!!

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post #6 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 05:25 PM
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Every oil change. Don't know why but I do.

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post #7 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 05:39 PM
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Every other.

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post #8 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 05:40 PM
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Every Oil Change & I love bacon

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post #9 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 05:44 PM
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Every oil change gets a new filter, crush washer, and fresh T-6 Rotella.

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post #10 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
Cool, save me a few bucks on the next change. Don't know what Group this oil is categorized in.....:
]
Rotella T6 is Group III severely hydrocracked. Thank the Mobil 1/Castrol lawsuit for the ubiquitous use of this base oil being labeled as "synthetic". OTOH, the performance of Group III base oils is fantastic for their price....hence, why so many blenders use this as their "synthetic" base.

It's very good oil.

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post #11 of 75 Old 10-11-2011, 11:56 PM
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post #12 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 05:56 PM
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Every oil change. Who wants to take a chance that it fills up and shuts off between changes? Dave

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post #13 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 07:33 PM
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I need to qualify my every other change by mentioning that I change the oil relatively frequently, about every 5000km (3k miles).

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post #14 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:12 PM
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BACON!!!

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post #15 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:15 PM
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filter wise the oils out today will out last the filter filtering it cantamination wise. except we run wet clutches on most our stuff so it shortens the service life of the oil but when the manufactures are recommending 8k before service i just do both when i feel the shift get a little notchy before the manufactures recommended change.

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post #16 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:30 PM
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Why in the heck would you not change the filter every oil change? Unless you're changing your oil every 500 miles, by 3000 miles it's done its job and you're just soiling the new oil with contaminates as soon as it flows through the dirty filter. Seriously, even the best filters are like $12, cheap ones are $5, synthetic oil costs $30 or more per change, why not change the filter?

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post #17 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:43 PM
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sbeau, its because paper element filters get better with age, a brand new filter does not filter as good as one with 3k miles on it. every other oil change seems to be the right amount of time for use of a filter as it one does the best overall job of filtering, and 2, isnt clogged up enough to cause flow problems.

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post #18 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:46 PM
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I voted for bacon

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post #19 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:46 PM
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Nope, not buying it, have always changed the filter every time, and will continue to do so. To each their own though, your bike, your choice.

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post #20 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:47 PM
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The bigger question is... how the did Honda come up with 8K OCIs?!

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post #21 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
The bigger question is... how the did Honda come up with 8K OCIs?!
Several auto manufacturers recommend 15K oil changes these days, full synthetic oil has made a huge difference in the need to change it at relatively short intervals. I still feel it's more important to change at closer intervals in a bike engine though with higher internal stress and common trans and engine lubrication.





Along with a new filter

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post #22 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 09:03 PM
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I have about 3,500 miles on my oil now and my last oil/filter change was a month ago. I've never taken her more than 2,500 between OCIs but I must say, she's never shifted smoother than after 2900 miles. I might just keep the oil for another 500 miles just for s* and giggles.

But since we're on filters, I've never seen this posted on here: Oil Filters Revealed/Dissected

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post #23 of 75 Old 10-12-2011, 09:34 PM
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ya no way in hell id do 8k mi on an OCI, with the way i ring the neck off my 919 every time i ride it...

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post #24 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 03:33 AM
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if i would have saw the bacon option.thats most def. how i would have voted ...because i love bacon...Still on the hunt for that bacon scented air freshener.

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post #25 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeriley View Post
if i would have saw the bacon option.thats most def. how i would have voted ...because i love bacon...Still on the hunt for that bacon scented air freshener.
Your hunt is over! Bacon Scents

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post #26 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
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Why in the heck would you not change the filter every oil change? Unless you're changing your oil every 500 miles, by 3000 miles it's done its job and you're just soiling the new oil with contaminates as soon as it flows through the dirty filter. Seriously, even the best filters are like $12, cheap ones are $5, synthetic oil costs $30 or more per change, why not change the filter?
One word (and one number)

VStar 1100

You have to pull the exhaust to get to the filter, which is under a cover on the right side of the engine, a PIA to do.

Yamaha suggests changing the filter every other time on that bike, I see why.

External spin on filter adapters are a popular mod for those bikes, I need to get one for my sister's motorcycle.

My FJ is also kind of a PIA to do, cartridge filter under a housing. The housing has a drain screw, and I believe Yamaha also suggests changes to the oil filter every other time - I still change it every time.

And I am considering a spin on adapter for it....

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post #27 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
sbeau, its because paper element filters get better with age, a brand new filter does not filter as good as one with 3k miles on it. every other oil change seems to be the right amount of time for use of a filter as it one does the best overall job of filtering, and 2, isnt clogged up enough to cause flow problems.
With all due respect, there is no way I believe that a paper filter gets better with age.

For filters, I buy the same way I buy Mach3 razors - by the damn case off eBay. I personally like the K&N oil filters because they have a 17mm nut on them. I bought a box of them and it worked out to something like $11 apiece. I use Mobil1 but realize it's overkill. No 919 owner has ever had an engine problem caused by Fram filters and/or conventional oil.

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post #28 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 05:57 AM
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hmm, never considered not changing the filter every oil change, and I am super tight-wad when it comes to cash.

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post #29 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 06:18 AM
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Obviously, it's hard for many to believe oil filters filter better as they are used. Go to bobistheoilguy and spend some time reviewing actual UOA's (used oil analysis) and pay attention to the Insoluables values. They do NOT go up on the second nor third OCI if a filter is left in for more than one OCI.

Be sure to also read the theory of filtration information. ALL Filters (that aren't disentegrating) filter better and better as they become loaded.

Think about this: when a fluid is run through a filter, more fluid flows through the larger pathways than the smaller pathways. Big particles roll off the areas of small pathways until they become lodged in one of the more open areas where the flow is pushing them to go. It's a bit like a log being shoved down a stream...it will keep rolling around until it gets hung up somewhere...at which point it begins to catch other trash coming down the stream. At the same time, water is forced around the log-jam to find other ways downstream. The more big areas that are plugged by big particles, the more the flow is forced to go to other, smaller pathway areas. That's better filtration.

Unless the particles are broken up into smaller particles which can then pass through the pathway that initially caught them, these large particles plugging the larger holes are why filters become more efficient as they are used.

It's one of the arguements the stainless steel screen filter manufacturers use to say they are "better". Metal Screen filters have more uniform opening sizes than filter or mesh. However, mesh's irregularly shaped openings may snag more particles, especially if the particle is not a sphere.

I won't go on about it...if interested, the information is out there. If not interested, change the filter every time...although science can prove using a new filter every time isn't as effective as leaving them in longer. Assuming, of course, an appropriate oil and OCI is being followed for the engine system.

PS: For those of you that study UOA's, you'll periodically notice comments related to increased rate of wear metals produced per mile, commonly seen after an oil change. Many are now questioning if this increased rate of wear is due to lowered filter efficiency provided by the virgin filter, or, if it is due to anti-wear additives in the oil that needs some heat-cycling to become maximally effective, or due to increased detergent action of new oil, or a combination of these factors. Tribology is interesting stuff for those that are truly curious about lubrication science, and aren't relying upon Arnold Palmer (or some mechanic, the vast majority that are not be informed about modern tribological science) sitting on a tractor talking about how well Pennzoil has worked on the farm for so long.

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post #30 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 06:52 AM
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Well said and my reasoning for going every other change.

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post #31 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 07:29 AM
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That was alot of words for what I would assume should be common sense. And even marketed already, as Fram will tell you with their washable oil filters. How does that help you decide when the filter is falling apart inside, or is unacceptably clogged?

The filtration system is prepared from the get go to handle bypassing the filter if need be. It doesnt seem like one would need to go out of there way to clog one up enough to require it.

Lets also not forget how long the engine is running without oil pressure everytime you change the filter on one of these engines, where you cant pre-fill the filter with oil.. I cant help but feel like smashing metal parts has a bit more to do with things then dirty filters.

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post #32 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 07:58 AM
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Great post Blackheart, but with the larger ports being clogged... and routing to smaller ports, what does that do to the oil pressure?

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post #33 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 12:47 PM
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post #34 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr1 View Post
That was alot of words for what I would assume should be common sense. And even marketed already, as Fram will tell you with their washable oil filters. How does that help you decide when the filter is falling apart inside, or is unacceptably clogged?

The filtration system is prepared from the get go to handle bypassing the filter if need be. It doesnt seem like one would need to go out of there way to clog one up enough to require it.

Lets also not forget how long the engine is running without oil pressure everytime you change the filter on one of these engines, where you cant pre-fill the filter with oil.. I cant help but feel like smashing metal parts has a bit more to do with things then dirty filters.
no loss of oil pressure when installing new filter

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post #35 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 04:29 PM
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Changed the oil and filter in the FJ hours ago. I did not replace the o-rings as I will reuse them a few times. The crush washer on the drain plug was also replaced recently and showed no sign of damage.

Pulled the battery, water was on the lower level, topped it off - all cells were down uniformly. When I replace this one, I'll go with maintenance free, but until then, it is what it is and it requires maintenance.

Adjusted the throttle cable a tad, checked tire pressure, chain seems OK enough, going to order new chain and sprockets sooner rather than later.

Did order a new rear tire, another Avon Azaro. The drag strip did a number on the one on there. I'm not real happy riding on such a squared off tire.

Still better than driving!

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post #36 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
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no loss of oil pressure when installing new filter
no what hes trying to get at is when you replace a filter with one that is dry, you now have to fill that entire filter up before any oil is pumped out to the parts that need it.

honestly not that big of a deal IMO.

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post #37 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 04:59 PM
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You can lessen that no-pressure time by filling the filter with as much oil as the media will hold (without dripping out when you screw the filter on). Usually 3/4 of the center cavity and letting it soak in all sides. But that's just for piece of mind... probably doesn't matter if you stick the filter on there dry or not.

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post #38 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
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Several auto manufacturers recommend 15K oil changes these days
Really, Who? It seems 5-8k is the norm now. I still do mine at 3k with dino oil and 5k with syn.



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post #39 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 06:34 PM
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I am going to start changing the oil every other filter change. The dirty oil will instantly make the filter more efficient.

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post #40 of 75 Old 10-13-2011, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
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I am going to start changing the oil every other filter change. The dirty oil will instantly make the filter more efficient.
hahahahahhahahahhahahaha!

maybe pre clock the filter with some sand while your at it?

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