Ohlins fork spring and valving - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ohlins fork spring and valving

Can anyone refer me to a site or help me find the part numbers for reworking the niner's front forks? I am looking to change fork springs, rebound and compression valving.

I have costed it out for Racetech, which would have to be shipped up North (+ exchange rate) - the local dealership sells ohlins and I would like to compare cost.

Also, are Ohlins and Racetech fairly similar in terms of performance when it comes to niner fork rebuild?

By the way, I did search! I saw a thread somewhere where someone was installing the ohlins valving and springs (with pics and all) but I cannot retrace it.

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post #2 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 02:42 PM
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LDH on here can hook you up - over at Dan Kyle racing. They can either sell you the kit, or you send in your forks and they can do the whole shebang and ship them back to you.

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post #3 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 02:42 PM
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Contact LDH, he'll help you.

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post #4 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:04 PM
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post #5 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:05 PM
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$455 for the kit including springs, oil, spacers and valving (shipping not included)

If you want us to do the work then it is only $675 installed plus the cost of shipping your forks back to you.

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post #6 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
$455 for the kit including springs, oil, spacers and valving (shipping not included)

If you want us to do the work then it is only $675 installed plus the cost of shipping your forks back to you.
I'm interested in this. Who's springs and valves do you use?

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post #7 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:29 PM
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post #8 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeS View Post
I'm interested in this. Who's springs and valves do you use?
Ohlins only...

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post #9 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:39 PM
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Yea, ya don't get to be the worlds largest Ohlins dealer by selling the competition

Plus I tend to find that people that promote multi-line sales usually end up trying to sell what yields them the best profit margin not what yields the best results for the customer.

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post #10 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
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Yea, ya don't get to be the worlds largest Ohlins dealer by selling the competition

Plus I tend to find that people that promote multi-line sales usually end up trying to sell what yields them the best profit margin not what yields the best results for the customer.
Thanks. I was unaware of that fact.

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post #11 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:43 PM
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I don't really push a lot of products here as I started as just an enthusiast with a couple websites like RC51.org and the now mostly defunct 919.org, but I do vehemently support my choices.

Oh & welcome to the site

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post #12 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
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Ohlins only...
Really? LDH, I thought you primarily dealt with racetech.

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post #13 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by EscapedLabRat View Post
Really? LDH, I thought you primarily dealt with racetech.
Well I've used it on my personal bikes in the past and tested Racetech stuff here & there over the years, but never sold it.

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post #14 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 03:58 PM
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Well I've used it on my personal bikes in the past and tested Racetech stuff here & there over the years, but never sold it.
I could have sworn there was a thread with a mild LDH rant about racetech - maybe it was Penske? Oh well, I guess I'll leave the trolling to marylandmike.

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post #15 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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That pricing is actually quite competitive with Racetech. I am thinking of ordering the kit since shipping forks from Canada isn't really worth it - I use a UPS store in NY state to receive my stuff so ordering from US isn't thay bad.

What specifically is included in the kit re valving? Both rebound and compression? I suppose fork fluid is not included?

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post #16 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 04:16 PM
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post #17 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Haha, that would be great!

I have a leaky fork and want to take care of it this winter - upgrading at the same time would be really nice. -20 riding is not my thing...

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post #18 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EscapedLabRat View Post
I could have sworn there was a thread with a mild LDH rant about racetech - maybe it was Penske? Oh well, I guess I'll leave the trolling to marylandmike.
Troll but Verify

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post #19 of 30 Old 12-09-2014, 06:51 PM
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Not only he trolls the threads but he's hoarding all the good cardboard. Bastard!

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post #20 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 03:18 AM
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I have not spent much time dealing with a lot of suspension on motorcycles so this is a genuine question.
How do you set the sag of the front forks (919 forks) that you take in for a rebuild without the rider present?

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post #21 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
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I have not spent much time dealing with a lot of suspension on motorcycles so this is a genuine question.
How do you set the sag of the front forks (919 forks) that you take in for a rebuild without the rider present?
You don't. You set the sag with the pre-load adjusters once on bike and with the rider. They will equip it with the correct spring rate and spacer that will ALLOW the pre-load adjusters to set the sag as a final adjustment.

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post #22 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 07:09 AM
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You don't. You set the sag with the pre-load adjusters once on bike and with the rider. They will equip it with the correct spring rate and spacer that will ALLOW the pre-load adjusters to set the sag as a final adjustment.
And if you have a 2002 with no adjustments?

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post #23 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
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And if you have a 2002 with no adjustments?
Should be able to put fork cap adjusters on there. You wouldn't re-spring and valve without adjustable end caps as part of the upgrade (at least it wouldn't make sense to me)

BUT, you could adjust spacer length to get correct sag, but that is a WHOLE lot of work. Initially it would be calculated and hope you are right. Test it with rider, measure and calculate. Pull apart and adjust spacer length (you should have made it too long to begin with)

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post #24 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lococnc View Post

Should be able to put fork cap adjusters on there. You wouldn't re-spring and valve without adjustable end caps as part of the upgrade (at least it wouldn't make sense to me)

BUT, you could adjust spacer length to get correct sag, but that is a WHOLE lot of work. Initially it would be calculated and hope you are right. Test it with rider, measure and calculate. Pull apart and adjust spacer length (you should have made it too long to begin with)
That's what I did on my ST13. Was a royal pain in the @ss.

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post #25 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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post #26 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 08:01 AM
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post #27 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeS View Post
And if you have a 2002 with no adjustments?

If you don't have adjustable preload then you simply instal the closest possible springs for your weight and make due.

The biggest mistake I have come across from 919 owners with fork work they have done themselves is front springs that are too stiff. They think they have to get rid of what they consider to be excessive front end dive, but fail to realize that there has to be a certain amount of front end dive to alter the geometry and allow the bike to initiate turn-in on the brakes. Plus when the front rides high because the springs are too stiff you not only lose compliance with the front tire contact patch, but alter the geometry to a point where the bike doesn't want to maintain traction especially when pushing through a turn.

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post #28 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
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If you don't have adjustable preload then you simply instal the closest possible springs for your weight and make due.

The biggest mistake I have come across from 919 owners with fork work they have done themselves is front springs that are too stiff. They think they have to get rid of what they consider to be excessive front end dive, but fail to realize that there has to be a certain amount of front end dive to alter the geometry and allow the bike to initiate turn-in on the brakes. Plus when the front rides high because the springs are too stiff you not only lose compliance with the front tire contact patch, but alter the geometry to a point where the bike doesn't want to maintain traction especially when pushing through a turn.
On this subject, can also the problem be too light a spring and adjusting the pre-load all the way down to get near the correct sag?

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post #29 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 08:17 AM
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On this subject, can also the problem be too light a spring and adjusting the pre-load all the way down to get near the correct sag?
Yes, but that usually just results in a less than ideal ride comfort rather than blatantly wrong geometry, but there is some of that as well.

When you start to compress a coil spring it starts out linear and the more you compress it the more progressive it becomes towards the end before coil bind. If you put too much preload on the spring then you effectively squish out all the linear travel of the spring and that leaves only the progressive area of the stroke to utilize while you are riding the bike. The more progressive it is the harsher it becomes.

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post #30 of 30 Old 12-10-2014, 04:31 PM
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Every standard spring selector I have seen oversprings the front and undersprings the back. LDH is spot on in his observations re oversprung fronts. And all the rest for that matter. Not that we should be suprised ! It should be our expectation.

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