Need quick help: Front wheel shim/spacer issue? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Need quick help: Front wheel shim/spacer issue?

Need some quick help - I'm buttoning up my front end after master cylinder rebuild and the EBC 'upgrade' and I noticed that my right side caliper has *very narrow* clearance between it and the rotor on the inside edge. (All pictures are clickable for larger version.)





The other side isn't so affected though the gap is also narrower on the inside than the outside.





Do I have my spacers in wrong or something? (Yes, I will be cleaning off the excess grease shortly.)






Is this normal? I hadn't noticed this before. Additional shots that might be useful somehow:





And before someone accuses me of pulling a Whiplash97, yes, the wheel and tire is on the correct way around:


The local parts stores are closing soon and I'd really like to get back on the road...

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post #2 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 04:12 PM
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Looks to me like your spacers are on right. Is she making funny noises when you spin the wheel? Pretty sure you'd know if your spacers were on backwards.

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post #3 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
Looks to me like your spacers are on right. Is she making funny noises when you spin the wheel? Pretty sure you'd know if your spacers were on backwards.
spacers are good on the axle. Does the disk hit the caliper if not take her out for a spin, the semi floating nature of the disk might move a little bit and get you some more clearance

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post #4 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 04:30 PM
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take calipers off and measure from mounting pad to rotor on each side. are they the same?

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post #5 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
Looks to me like your spacers are on right. Is she making funny noises when you spin the wheel? Pretty sure you'd know if your spacers were on backwards.
The pads aren't extended in the calipers yet but the wheel spins freely, no funny noises.

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take calipers off and measure from mounting pad to rotor on each side. are they the same?
I can do that, give me a minute to eat and I'll go out and do that.

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Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
spacers are good on the axle. Does the disk hit the caliper if not take her out for a spin, the semi floating nature of the disk might move a little bit and get you some more clearance
I haven't bled down the brakes yet, so I can't take it for a spin.

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post #6 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, went out and measured.

Left side, the one with seemingly fine clearance.





Right side, the one with questionable clearance.




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post #7 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:31 PM
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Hard to see as pics are a little dark. Tell us how did you tighten the wheel (what sequence). Did you use torque wrench? How do your pads look? even wear on both sides?

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post #8 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:33 PM
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So they are the same?

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post #9 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:34 PM
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Good point. If you haven;t bounced the suspension with the left (clutch side) pinch bolts loose, then it could just be the fork out of position.

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post #10 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Hard to see as pics are a little dark. Tell us how did you tighten the wheel (what sequence). Did you use torque wrench?
Used torque wrench, did it per the manual. Big bolt first, then right side pinch bolts. I have *not* done the left side pinch bolts because I have to refill and bleed out the system first. I just replaced pads and rotors and rebuilt the master. I still have the old calipers and can check wear later.

I'm wondering if I should just do that first and see if matters improve after bouncing.

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post #11 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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So they are the same?
Yes, or within 1/32" at any rate.

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post #12 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
Used torque wrench, did it per the manual. Big bolt first, then right side pinch bolts. I have *not* done the left side pinch bolts because I have to refill and bleed out the system first. I just replaced pads and rotors and rebuilt the master. I still have the old calipers and can check wear later.

I'm wondering if I should just do that first and see if matters improve after bouncing.

how do your pads look? even wear? I think typical minimum clearance between rotor/caliper 0.7mm that needs to be verified before pinch bolts are torqued. If I remember correctly, 9er had different part#s for OEM R/L rotors....

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post #13 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
how do your pads look? even wear? I think typical minimum clearance between rotor/caliper 0.7mm that needs to be verified before pinch bolts are torqued. If I remember correctly, 9er had different part#s for OEM R/L rotors....
I'll have to go dig them back out but I recall it being fairly even wear on the pads I took off.

I also just went back and checked the manual, looks like clearance is to be checked after the front end gets bounced and the left pinch bolts are torqued. Guess I'll do the front brake flush and bleed first then see what happens, unless someone else has a suggestion?

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post #14 of 18 Old 02-08-2015, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lococnc View Post
Good point. If you haven;t bounced the suspension with the left (clutch side) pinch bolts loose, then it could just be the fork out of position.
^^^ What he said. Loosen the fork bottom bolts and jump on the front end a few times. I do this every time I take the front wheel off.
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-09-2015, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
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^^^ What he said. Loosen the fork bottom bolts and jump on the front end a few times. I do this every time I take the front wheel off.
+1, you're almost there though, looks great.

Settle the front end as others stated, tighten everything up and then see what your measurements are.

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post #16 of 18 Old 02-09-2015, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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That didn't work. It was just as bad once I bounced it. I did get it resolved, though. Took everything apart - calipers off, wheel out - and started over. Put it back together per the manual again, noticed that this time the left caliper outer pad was now pushing the rotor out of line. Wasn't before, so knocked the pads back and caused the caliper to re-center. Worked that time, have about .8mm clearance on that side now by my feeler gauges.

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post #17 of 18 Old 02-09-2015, 04:43 PM
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Any idea what exactly caused it? Was it the pad forcing the rotor out of line?

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post #18 of 18 Old 02-09-2015, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Any idea what exactly caused it? Was it the pad forcing the rotor out of line?
The only thing I can think of is possibly incorrect axle torque. I used a beam-type torque wrench the first time since my clicker wasn't around. Used the clicker the second time.

Could not have been pads to start because they were fully retracted at the time.

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