Let's talk about rusty bolts (not the porn star) - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Let's talk about rusty bolts (not the porn star)

I was thinking of attacking them with WD-40 and steel wool.

Any other suggestions?



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My bike used to sit out in the rain. But now that I've dropped $2,700 in mods and rebuild, I'm going to be a little more diligent.

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Used to be Red, now it's Green. Open for name suggestions.
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post #2 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 05:42 PM
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I've wondered about the banjo bolt on the brakes myself. Could care less about the less important ones (splash guard bolts, fairing bolts, etc).

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post #3 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 05:49 PM
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A small wire brush will also help get the rust off.

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post #4 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 08:47 PM
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They will rust again unless you find SS alternative or paint them uranium green

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post #5 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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They will rust again unless you find SS alternative or paint them uranium green
I was thinking of shoving them all into a chunk of foam and spray painting them...

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post #6 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 09:27 PM
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And watch the spray paint flake right off when you go to tighten them back on. Don't worry about the rust.

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post #7 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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And watch the spray paint flake right off when you go to tighten them back on. Don't worry about the rust.
I worry man
I worry.
I have some paint made for wheels that I plan on using on my front forks. It's made to "resist" chipping.
Also using a Torx to tighten them, and not tighten them very much will help keep the paint from chipping (for bolts that aren't load bearing, like for the rear hugger etc.)

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post #8 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
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I worry man
Still can't find your "Name My Bike thread"
lmao

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post #9 of 32 Old 07-11-2013, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Still can't find your "Name My Bike thread"
lmao
When it's done...

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post #10 of 32 Old 07-12-2013, 08:23 AM
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Most of the bolts on the Honda's are usually zinc coated or plated. If they are showing rust then its just going to rust again, but if they have that white corrosion on them you could wire brush it, just use a stainless steel wire brush or wire wheel on the grinder and it should be good for a great length of time again. I've taken to replacing most of mine with stainless nuts and bolts but keep in mind stainless and Aluminum will eventually cause electrolysis (that white chalky corrosion), usually on the point where they meet. If you want to eliminate the rusty banjo bolts I would go ahead and spend a little money and get the real deal stuff from someone like Pro-bolt or Venhill.

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post #11 of 32 Old 07-12-2013, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Been staring at this online shopping cart for an hour, wondering if I should drop $127 on some nuts and bolts.

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post #12 of 32 Old 07-12-2013, 05:14 PM
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Treat yourself man, as long as you are not taking food out of a kids mouth or anything as such... Spruce up the old 9'r, she deserves it!!!!

By the way, can you tell I am an enabler????

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post #13 of 32 Old 07-12-2013, 05:44 PM
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I went through most of the cosmetic round-head bolts and replaced them with chrome bolts acquired at the local ACE hardware store.
The guy working there said they'd never hold up to the weather, but maybe six years on, they still look bright with no corrosion.
I'm not sure about the ACE in your area, but here in the Chicago area, they all have a respectable amount of metric hardware, chrome or otherwize.

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post #14 of 32 Old 07-13-2013, 05:17 AM
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fastenal has zinc plated allenhead bolts that will not rust. I've had them in a couple of my quads for years now and no rust. This is including holding the engine together they are grade 12.9.

Get on a good online fiche finder find the size you need and take them to fastenal.

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post #15 of 32 Old 07-13-2013, 07:47 AM
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Dunk your rusty bolts in a bowl/bucket/container of vinegar overnight...that stuff will eat off rust.

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

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post #16 of 32 Old 07-13-2013, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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All good info guys.
I spent this morning taking off the cosmetic bolts, sanding them, and spray painting them with wheel paint (black). I'll let you know how they hold up.

I'm going to take The Shadow's suggestion of dunking them in vinegar (would coke work too, you think?)

And going to look into replacements at Fastenal and Ace for the bigger, more important fasteners.

Thanks guys.

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post #17 of 32 Old 07-13-2013, 10:02 AM
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Imo, any dunking to remove rust is only going to last until it rains again. Get good bolts.

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post #18 of 32 Old 07-13-2013, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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image-2499416427.jpg



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I'll let you know how it holds up.


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post #19 of 32 Old 07-14-2013, 06:05 AM
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I replaced all the 10mm bolts on my 919 with stainless button head bolts. I picked them up in bulk locally for a few bucks at a fastner supplier.

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post #20 of 32 Old 07-14-2013, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered a black stem nut and sprocket nuts from Pro-Bolt.
And gonna try to go cheap for all the engine casing bolts now.
Don't know about the bolts that mount the rear sets and swingarm pivot yet.

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post #21 of 32 Old 07-14-2013, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
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Don't know about the bolts that mount the rear sets and swingarm pivot yet.
Don't gotta worry about the swingarm pivot bolts as they're covered with the pivot caps.

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post #22 of 32 Old 07-14-2013, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I phrased that wrong.

I meant the bolts at the top and bottom for the swingarm side brackets.

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post #23 of 32 Old 07-14-2013, 11:54 PM
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How much did that stem nut set you back? I had mine powdercoated - he did it for free with all the other stuff I did at the time.

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post #24 of 32 Old 07-15-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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How much did that stem nut set you back? I had mine powdercoated - he did it for free with all the other stuff I did at the time.
Like $25.
I forgot to take it when I dropped everything else off.

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post #25 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Are these going to be a safe replacement for the rotor mounting bolts?


image-4243671165.jpg



image-1829813977.jpg

They're steel, so the material is strong enough, but I'm worried that, since the heads are smaller diameter, there is less surface holding the rotors on.

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post #26 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 12:59 PM
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I do not think so because the head of the bolt is not only there to clamp it but it is also made to center the rotor once it is torqued down. I could be incorrect though.

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post #27 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 01:02 PM
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I know on my Hawk the OE rotor bolts had a recessed shoulder, on the 919 it does not appear to be the case so it's hard to say for sure... You may be able to get away with it but I would check for any other kind of interference stuff as well

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post #28 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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The last few mm at the top of the shank is not threaded, and is slightly larger in diameter than the threaded shank, so that may be necessary for rotor-centering.
Damn. These bolts are only about .50 a piece, so it would be nice. But I don't want to risk my rotor warpage or vibration.

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post #29 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 02:13 PM
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The rotor bolts are shouldered so u need to stick with the oem.

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post #30 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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And Pro-Bolt doesnt have replacements except almost $100 for titanium.
So I ordered some factory ones. I'll either paint them or get them powdercoated.

I'm going to mount up the rotors with these bolts, just so I can get the front wheel put on, then replace them with the proper rotors when they show up, before I ride it.

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post #31 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 03:02 PM
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Those cheap .50 ones will rust on you. Plus, I don't (and wouldn't suggest you either) trust the cheap stuff to something so important on the bike.

A luggage rack? yeah. Brakes? HEEEEY no.

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post #32 of 32 Old 07-23-2013, 07:20 PM
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Steel Socket head cap screws are grade 8, so cheap maybe but not weak.
And yes, they'll rust.
I'd still rather see the factory mushroom head screws used on the rotors since they have a bit more grip area under the head.

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