Kill switch question and drags - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-08-2013, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Kill switch question and drags

So this Friday is the last open night at the local drag strip around here, and a bunch of guys from work are going and talked me into joining them. First of all, they require a lanyard kill switch so I was wondering if anyone has installed something like this before. I have access to plenty, and I just planned on cutting the wire to the stock kill switch and putting some bullets on and running it to my lanyard switch. That way it's easily swappable/reversible. Unless anyone has a better idea. Also, does anyone know if the stock switch goes to open or closed when it's off?
Second, any advise would be helpful, it's just friendly, and most if not all of them will be in cars. But one of the guys cars is gonna be as fast if not faster than my bike and bragging rights mean a lot. Suggestions on slight suspension tweaks for a better launch, tire pressures, shift points etc...

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
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-2007 Honda 919
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post #2 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 04:04 AM
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Sorry, no experience with drag raceing a bike, but this is interesting. I'll be keepin an eye on thie thread. Good luck.

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post #3 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 06:40 AM
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I did some drag racing here a few years ago. The bike was good to go the way it was. No mods to the kill switch was needed, it has a tip over sensor.

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post #4 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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I'm saying the track we're going to requires a lanyard type switch, so I need to add that in...

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
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post #5 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 08:49 AM
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Not experienced with drag racing per se -- BUT I've done hundreds of MX starts.

Since you're only going in a straight line and for a short distance -- I'd suggest raising your forks in the triple clamps -- lower the triple clamp...raise the fork (however your mind wraps around the idea) -- by putting more weight over the front wheel and changing the ergos, it will be less likely to wheelie from the start. You'll have less travel on the front, and it will change steering - but you're not steering.

I wouldnt go too far with that...but a bit less wheelie is good in a start.

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
So this Friday is the last open night at the local drag strip around here, and a bunch of guys from work are going and talked me into joining them. First of all, they require a lanyard kill switch so I was wondering if anyone has installed something like this before. I have access to plenty, and I just planned on cutting the wire to the stock kill switch and putting some bullets on and running it to my lanyard switch. That way it's easily swappable/reversible. Unless anyone has a better idea. Also, does anyone know if the stock switch goes to open or closed when it's off?
Second, any advise would be helpful, it's just friendly, and most if not all of them will be in cars. But one of the guys cars is gonna be as fast if not faster than my bike and bragging rights mean a lot. Suggestions on slight suspension tweaks for a better launch, tire pressures, shift points etc...
You could put one of those add-a-circuit things under the main fuse and connect the lanyard kill switch to that. That would require zero modifications to the wiring harness and still kill the bike if you go flying. You can then remove it afterwards in just a few minutes.

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post #7 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
You could put one of those add-a-circuit things under the main fuse and connect the lanyard kill switch to that. That would require zero modifications to the wiring harness and still kill the bike if you go flying. You can then remove it afterwards in just a few minutes.
This is a great and very sound Idea!

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post #8 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
So this Friday is the last open night at the local drag strip around here, and a bunch of guys from work are going and talked me into joining them. First of all, they require a lanyard kill switch so I was wondering if anyone has installed something like this before. I have access to plenty, and I just planned on cutting the wire to the stock kill switch and putting some bullets on and running it to my lanyard switch. That way it's easily swappable/reversible. Unless anyone has a better idea. Also, does anyone know if the stock switch goes to open or closed when it's off?
The kill switch applies power from the 10 amp starter / bank angle sensor fuse (White / Black wire) in the fuse box. The best place to find it is in the headlight bucket. Look for the Brown 9 pin connector, cut the wire on the harness side of it, splice in about 18" of wire to each end, wrap it in tape, and feed it out the back of the bucket. The usual location for the lanyard switch is on the handlebars, so be sure the wires are long enough. Oh, the kill switch is closed in the run position.
Quote:
Second, any advise would be helpful, it's just friendly, and most if not all of them will be in cars. But one of the guys cars is gonna be as fast if not faster than my bike and bragging rights mean a lot. Suggestions on slight suspension tweaks for a better launch, tire pressures, shift points etc...
Standard stuff here:
-- Set the rear preload to its lowest position, and if available crank up the rear compression setting. This lets the rear squat (preload) and slows the rise under hard acceleration.
-- Run the front tire at around 28 to 30 PSI, and the rear ... well, its a "run it and see" situation. Start at ~25 PSI and if on the launch the tire wants to go up in smoke drop the pressure to put more tread on the track. Seems to hook up too well? Raise the pressure. It'll tell you what it prefers. Remember the best acceleration is when the tire is running at about 10% slip, though you may not have enough runs to dial that in.
-- A typical amateur launch usually entails tagging the rev limiter and slipping the clutch until it's fully engaged, usually just before hitting the limiter again. In the case of a 919, however, this wastes time, attention, and clutch plates.

A proper launch takes advantage of the torque curve put out by the motor, which hits a peak around 5,000 RPM. The best launches I have done start with sitting back to weight the rear tire, get the clutch fully engaged as soon as possible, then nailing the throttle while feeling traction and adjusting body position forward to keep the front end down. Wheelies waste time.
The 1-2 shift seems best around 8,500 RPM which drops revs back into the meat of the torque curve: just under 6 grand. As practically everyone who rides a 919 will attest that 1-2 shift can be problematic due to the deep neutral detent -- a good deliberate push on the lever is necessary to make sure you don't look like a doofus with a wildly revving motor and grinding gears.
The 2-3 shift should be at ~9,000 RPM, dropping revs to 7,500.
After that it depends on how far away the finish line is: 9,500 RPM in third gear (with stock gearing) is right around 105 MPH, and by then you should be close to the eyes. It's up to you whether another shift is worthwhile.
Remember your biggest advantage is that of weight: you have considerably less mass to get moving, so most of any lead you get will be at the start. After that all you can do is ride as clean as possible and hope he can't "haul you in".

Good luck!

Rob

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post #9 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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the car I'm thinking is gonna make it a good race is a lingenfelter CTS-V that has had some money put into it after buying. The guy who owns it said his 0-60 actually went down with the money he put into it because now the tires just spin when he tries to launch. I plan on this being my advantage, so the launch is definitely where I'm going to win or lose. thanks for the advise! I'll update with how it goes.

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 02:07 PM
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I do remember Bucky saying he runs 8 psi in his rear. His is the fastest niner out there. I know on our track the start line was slick as shit. I had a tough time launching. It always felt like I was starting in grass. Good luck!

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post #11 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 02:55 PM
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All you really have to do to be legal at most tracks is take a screw or small eye bolt etc and drive it into the kill switch on the bike leaving enough room to attach the lanyard to it.

It's a poor mans kill switch, but I have not met a Test & Tune track that would not allow it yet...


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post #12 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'm more worried about reversibility than ease... I have a wiring harness lab at work, so I think I can fab something up that's relatively unobtrusive and hidden. I appreciate the suggestion though!

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 03:02 PM
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post #14 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 04:09 PM
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You might have a chance, I was at the strip last Friday and I was pulling around a 11.30ish in the quarter. He may need slicks to pull that but let us know..here is a quick clip of me last Friday,im in far left lane running a new FZ1..just scroll down and click the 919 vs fz1 videohttp://www.youtube.com/user/Mudsling...ture=c4-feed-u

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post #15 of 21 Old 10-09-2013, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Stock those cars run around 12's so I think he'll be around that since he has more power, but also more slip. I found most posted quarter miles for the 9er are around 11, but I weigh 285, so that's slowing me down a lot. I think it'll be close.

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
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post #16 of 21 Old 10-10-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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So I just went to tighten my throttle and resync the pcIII and it's not reading my throttle... I wiggle a couple wires, and it's back... Shit.... Which wire am I looking for that craps out again? I didn't install it so I have no idea...

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
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post #17 of 21 Old 10-10-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
The kill switch applies power from the 10 amp starter / bank angle sensor fuse (White / Black wire) in the fuse box. The best place to find it is in the headlight bucket. Look for the Brown 9 pin connector, cut the wire on the harness side of it, splice in about 18" of wire to each end, wrap it in tape, and feed it out the back of the bucket. The usual location for the lanyard switch is on the handlebars, so be sure the wires are long enough. Oh, the kill switch is closed in the run position.
Got it all wired up! Had to flip the kill switch I had as it went open when it was off, but everything works good. Thanks for the help rob!
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Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
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post #18 of 21 Old 10-10-2013, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
So I just went to tighten my throttle and resync the pcIII and it's not reading my throttle... I wiggle a couple wires, and it's back... Shit.... Which wire am I looking for that craps out again? I didn't install it so I have no idea...
Look for a loose connection to the Red / Yellow wire near the ECU at the back of the tail. It's in the #9 position of the gray 22 pin connector. Like as not it's either a Scotchlok "insulation displacement" type (place over the two wires and squeeze with a pair of pliers) or twisted and taped. Either way it's not a big thing to redo the splice.

Rob

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post #19 of 21 Old 10-13-2013, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I killed the guy with the CTS-v... He had issues hooking up and then left early because his car "wasn't running right"...lol he never even got into the 13's... My et got better each run, but my reaction time kept getting worse because I was overthinking it... I'm pretty sure I could get into the 11's pretty easy, especially if I drop some weight over the winter...(yeah right) overall it was a great time, and for 25 bucks if I would have gotten there earlier and stayed until the end I probably could have gotten 10 runs in, so it was definitely worth it. They didn't even check the kill switch. I asked the tech guy and he said he saw it was there, so I could have just zip tied one on... Thanks for all the help! And now I wish I would have went earlier in the year! My uncle ran in the 11.5's every run and was within a mile an hour at the finish every run... I told him he needs to get into bracket racing
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Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
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post #20 of 21 Old 10-13-2013, 05:33 PM
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Glad to here you whopped that lac.also love that old katana 1100,I had one like it ,it was a torque monster

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post #21 of 21 Old 10-13-2013, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax919 View Post
Glad to here you whopped that lac.also love that old katana 1100,I had one like it ,it was a torque monster
The katana was actually my dads bike from new until this year when my uncle bought it. First street bike I ever rode... And definitely the first bike that ever taught me my place and put the fear of god into me... I love it, but the ergonomics just aren't for me... Little too far forward, not enough leg room. Didn't stop me from putting 5000 miles on it before I could afford my own bike!

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
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