Key Bypass - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-26-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Key Bypass

Hi All,

Does any one know the procedure to bypass the key. I am building a project bike that i would like to place a simple switch to turn the bike on and off, bypassing the key. (i am aware of the security risks )

Seems if i disconnect the factory "key Holder" when i close the circuit, i dont get fuel pump and suspect the bike thinks its being jacked.

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post #2 of 9 Old 07-26-2019, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mookasaur View Post
Hi All,

Does any one know the procedure to bypass the key. I am building a project bike that i would like to place a simple switch to turn the bike on and off, bypassing the key. (i am aware of the security risks )

Seems if i disconnect the factory "key Holder" when i close the circuit, i dont get fuel pump and suspect the bike thinks its being jacked.
It sounds as though something like Woodcraft Technologies Inc "Key Switch Elimination Harness", as intended for race bikes built from street bikes, would solve the problem.
Have a look on-line to see what they look like, and perhaps that will provide you with an idea.

The short story is this, IF the key switch is not "smart", and simply provides a pure and simple contact, then I'd think it should be possible to get rid of it, but a replacement continuity path would have to be provided, and that path is where your intended switch would be incorporated into.

Keep in mind that electrical is not at all my forte.

This is really Mr. Tharlson territory, but some others here may have dealt with it before.

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-27-2019, 09:40 AM
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Ignoring the "security risks" for the moment, rigging a toggle switch to replace the key switch is pretty simple: all you need is a washdown rated SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) toggle switch capable of switching 12 volts at 30 amps and an eleven volt zener diode. See left illustration.

-The Red power feed wire from the battery connects to one of the switched terminals of the switch.
-The Pink security wire and cathode (banded end) lead of the zener diode connects to the other switched terminal.
-The Red/Black wire and the anode lead of the zener diode connects to common terminal.

Connected this way the security feature (will not start if hot wired) is maintained unless, of course, they find the ignition toggle switch.

If you can't find a suitable Zener diode locally the ignition switch can be cannibalized for the original Zener diode.

Unfortunately a toggle switch that can handle 30+ amps is quite large, making hiding it a considerable task. To get around that a much smaller switch can be used to activate a relay. See right illustration.

The left diagram can be made plug and play, but the right diagram will need to be grounded for the relay to function.

I just noticed you are in Johannesburg. Does your bike have the HISS feature? If it does things are going to get quite a bit more difficult. It's still possible, but will take a creative setup to get around it.

Rob
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File Type: jpg Ignition switch substitute 27 July 2019.jpg (49.7 KB, 11 views)
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If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-27-2019, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
Ignoring the "security risks" for the moment, rigging a toggle switch to replace the key switch is pretty simple: all you need is a washdown rated SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) toggle switch capable of switching 12 volts at 30 amps and an eleven volt zener diode. See left illustration.

-The Red power feed wire from the battery connects to one of the switched terminals of the switch.
-The Pink security wire and cathode (banded end) lead of the zener diode connects to the other switched terminal.
-The Red/Black wire and the anode lead of the zener diode connects to common terminal.

Connected this way the security feature (will not start if hot wired) is maintained unless, of course, they find the ignition toggle switch.

If you can't find a suitable Zener diode locally the ignition switch can be cannibalized for the original Zener diode.

Unfortunately a toggle switch that can handle 30+ amps is quite large, making hiding it a considerable task. To get around that a much smaller switch can be used to activate a relay. See right illustration.

The left diagram can be made plug and play, but the right diagram will need to be grounded for the relay to function.

I just noticed you are in Johannesburg. Does your bike have the HISS feature? If it does things are going to get quite a bit more difficult. It's still possible, but will take a creative setup to get around it.

Rob
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Thanks for chiming in.

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post #5 of 9 Old 07-28-2019, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanx Rob, i really appreciate the input. This will help me alot. I am not sure if it has a HISS feature, is there some way to check this ?

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post #6 of 9 Old 07-29-2019, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mookasaur View Post
Thanx Rob, i really appreciate the input. This will help me alot. I am not sure if it has a HISS feature, is there some way to check this ?
If it was sold overseas it likely has it... If it was sold in the US it likely doesn't.

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-29-2019, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mookasaur View Post
I am not sure if it has a HISS feature, is there some way to check this ?
It's relatively easy: just have your key duplicated with a non programmable key and see if it starts. The cost would be minimal, and in any case you will need a key to refuel and get under the seat. That is if your build leaves the key locks in place.

If you find it is HISS equipped your only option other than replacing the ECU with a non HISS unit is to remove the trim piece / key chip reader, put it somewhere inconspicuous, and tape the handle of the key to the reader. It may take some experimentation to get the location right, but once it's in place you won't have to worry about it.

Details of your build?

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-30-2019, 05:05 AM
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The HISS system has a red light on the dash that illuminates then goes out when it gets a signal from the key that all is well. Alternatively, if you hold down the rubber button under the tach for a few seconds while the engine is running, after you turn the bike off, the red dash light will flash to warn away baddies.

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-31-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanx for the advice. I think im asking the wrong question here as i am trying to achieve a different result. But i am posting a new thread on what is happening with the bike.

Basically, i bought it from a guy who had recently crashed it and his wife told him he needs to get rid of it. So i got a good deal on it, but..... there is no key at all for the bike, it was "lost in the crash between hitting the car and towing the bike to the lot"

I have the master key cylinder still. The bike wont start and i suspect it is in a "Stolen mode". I have posted here for more on the story. https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...ml#post1358255

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