Is my chain done? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Is my chain done?

Hi guys,

Took out the bike out of the underground parking where she spent the winter. Last year I've decided to swap the chain kit with a new one, but winter came early. This year, spring came early and my chain kit arrives in a month or so.

Can I still use it for a month? Thing is, the rubber seals, or o-rings (I think) are coming out of the chain... and I know, she needs a good wash




Thanks

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post #2 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 06:42 AM
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wow, why are you replacing your chain so soon, so often? are you bothering to clean/lube your chain regularly? that chain looks bone dry! are you buying decent quality chains?

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post #3 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
are you buying decent quality chains?
It looks to be a DID 520 ERV3 chain (although I didn't see DID on the links). If so, yeah, the chain quality isn't the problem.

A 520 chain every year? Ouch. Unless the rider puts 15000 miles on the bike every year.

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post #4 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:23 AM
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I take it he was going to change his chain last year before the end of season and never got around to it. So this year spring came early, and he can't get a new chain for a month and wants to know if he can ride that one.

Is that actually a piece of the o-ring hanging out? How many miles on the chain?

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post #5 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:24 AM
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i wonder, is the OP replacing the sprockets along with the chain??? if not, that'll cause premature chain wear.

you're right its a did erv 520 chain.

i think you're right hondajim. i most likely read his post wrong.

OP, the biggest issue you need to worry about is chain slack. if there's too much slack then no, it's not safe to ride. you look to be at the end of adjustments so pay close attention to that. the other issue is to make sure your chain isn't kinked or binding where the o-rings are missing. if there are none, you should be ok in the short term (i wouldn't go far though) and make sure to lube the hell out of it. if there is any sign of binding or resistance, it's not worth the risk.

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post #6 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, it's a DID 520 ERV3. I'm not changing it every year, I bought the bike last year, it came with this chain. I've changed everything on the bike (oil/filters/pads etc) and left the chain at last.
I'm worried about those rubber grommets, not sure if those are the o-rings. They're coming out, you can see them in the red rectangle in the first pic

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post #7 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Pvster, yes, changing full kit, switching from 15/45 to 17/44

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post #8 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:29 AM
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Ah. Yep, the chain is shedding X-rings, and the adjuster is nearly maxed out. Time for a new chain based on what I see.

Oh, and I LOVE the 17/44.

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post #9 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
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Pvster, yes, changing full kit, switching from 15/45 to 17/44
good choice!

how much slack in the chain do you have?

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post #10 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 08:30 AM
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good choice!

how much slack in the chain do you have?
oh come on... 15/45 FTW!!!

i will admit, highway RPM are a little higher than they were at 16/43, but it's way more fun.

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post #11 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Pvster, the slack is OK, maybe a little tight; the rings were my concern.
So bottom question, can I use it one more month for commuting? Or am I taking a big risk blowing the chain and more stuff along?

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post #12 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 08:55 AM
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loosen the chain up. you want it more loose than too tight. with the x-rings breaking out, you've effectively lost your seal on the roller bearings and commuting is a bad idea in my opinion. short trips and what not, sure because you're able to lube it frequently which is needed since the x-ring is gone and there's nothing to hold the lube in for any length of time.

ultimately, it's your call and i'm not an expert, hopefully LDH or someone of the like will chime in soon. until then, i say proceed with caution.

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post #13 of 33 Old 03-19-2012, 09:18 AM
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new chain/sprockets costs less than new case cause the chain flew into it.

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post #14 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 09:19 AM
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This is a perfect example that too much cleaning can do more bad than good. Whoever cleaned this chain used a brush harder than o-rings. I bet if you look close at other o-rings they will have brush marks.

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post #15 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 09:23 AM
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Also it hard to tell on my small 4" screen but that first pic has some kind of cracks on the Cush drive (looking through the hole in the sprocket). Maybe just your cam

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post #16 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Also it hard to tell on my small 4" screen but that first pic has some kind of cracks on the Cush drive (looking through the hole in the sprocket). Maybe just your cam
yeah i saw that too, dont think it's a crack. looks like it some lighting that got ghosted when the picture was taken?

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post #17 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
This is a perfect example that too much cleaning can do more bad than good. Whoever cleaned this chain used a brush harder than o-rings. I bet if you look close at other o-rings they will have brush marks.
So it looks like just wipin it down with a rag to get the gunk off is actually a pretty good method? My chain doesn't look near as good as others (mainly because it looked like crap when I got it) but looks like a soft and non invasive method may work best?

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post #18 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 10:06 AM
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yeah i saw that too, dont think it's a crack. looks like it some lighting that got ghosted when the picture was taken?
Looks like a seed from a dandelion or similiar to me

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post #19 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undercover919 View Post
So it looks like just wipin it down with a rag to get the gunk off is actually a pretty good method? My chain doesn't look near as good as others (mainly because it looked like crap when I got it) but looks like a soft and non invasive method may work best?
you can hose it down from sand/dust etc and just wipe it and lube it. No pressure washers and no hard brushes. You can use a toothbrush if you must.
The key is to keep it lubed. If sand/dirt gets under o-rings, can't get it out and you will further push it in and damage o-rings with any hard brushes. I'm not a big fan of kero on the chain unless it's a dirt bike and chain sees some harsh conditions. You can always use your chain lube as a cleaner (before it dries out if it's a wax type)
Go for a ride to warm up the chain, spray it so all the grime gets nice and soft, wipe it, spray it again.
Lots of ppl clean it with WD-40 without any issues. read here Does WD40 hurt o-rings? A test.... - ThumperTalk

If you do use WD40 to clean, make sure to lube it very well after cleaning

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post #20 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 10:33 AM
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So it looks like just wipin it down with a rag to get the gunk off is actually a pretty good method? My chain doesn't look near as good as others (mainly because it looked like crap when I got it) but looks like a soft and non invasive method may work best?
In theory, O-ring chains should never need lube. The whole point of the o-rings is to retain the factory lube and keep out dirt and grime. The only reason to put lube on a o-ring chain is to prevent corrosion on the outside. Spray it on light, and wipe off as much excess as you can with a rag. This will leave a light film to keep away the rust, but not pick up every piece of grit there is off the road. Chain lubing should be done AFTER each ride. And DONT use a pressure washer to clean your chain.

Your chain is not going to catastrophically fail due to a o-ring. It can cause a little bit more wear wear due to the minute amount of slop you will now have in the plate. You're replacing everything soon anyway. You can still ride some until your parts come in.

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post #21 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 10:43 AM
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not quite true nealc. you dont have to lube after EVERY ride. more like 400-600 miles. 500 is the standard for most chains. the lube also helps the o-rings themselves from drying out and cracking. i dont lube the side plates, i lube directly on the o-rings where it is needed most. been doing this for 3 years now and have yet to to have an issue. keep in mind, i ride in the rail almost daily as well.

as for cleaning the chain, you should clean it periodically. i would avoid water at all costs. clean your chain every 2-3k miles using kerosene (my favorite), or wd-40 or a quality chain cleaner. inbetween the major clean intervals, wipe the chain down before applying a new coat of lube. this will give you a long and lasting life on your chain.

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post #22 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 11:07 AM
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not quite true nealc. you dont have to lube after EVERY ride. more like 400-600 miles. 500 is the standard for most chains.
OK sure, if you ride less than 300-500 miles each time you get on your bike. Most of my rides are long ones. And I'm just in the habit of doing the chain after each ride. Proper lubing/cleaning of chain opinions are almost as controversial as what type of oil to use! I think most will agree that too much lube is a bad thing, and you do not need to use a power washer or wire brush to clean them.

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post #23 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 11:26 AM
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OK sure, if you ride less than 300-500 miles each time you get on your bike. Most of my rides are long ones. And I'm just in the habit of doing the chain after each ride. Proper lubing/cleaning of chain opinions are almost as controversial as what type of oil to use! I think most will agree that too much lube is a bad thing, and you do not need to use a power washer or wire brush to clean them.
hahah, quite true! fair enough! as far as "too much lube" goes, it depends on what kind of lube you use. for me, i use the dupoint teflon lube and a lot of it! no issues, no fling, holds up great to near daily wet weather abuse, and doesnt attract dirt/grime like most typical lubes do.

i do agree though that a power washer/wire brush is bad! even a grunge brush sold by cycle gear and major motorcycle chains are bad.

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post #24 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 11:54 AM
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hahah, quite true! fair enough! as far as "too much lube" goes, it depends on what kind of lube you use. for me, i use the dupoint teflon lube and a lot of it! no issues, no fling, holds up great to near daily wet weather abuse, and doesnt attract dirt/grime like most typical lubes do.

i do agree though that a power washer/wire brush is bad! even a grunge brush sold by cycle gear and major motorcycle chains are bad.
OK, how bout this: Too much of something that can cause road grime to stick to it is a bad thing!

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post #25 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 11:58 AM
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OK, how bout this: Too much of something that can cause road grime to stick to it is a bad thing!
sounds like g00gl3it

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post #26 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 12:10 PM
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sounds like g00gl3it
leave google3it out of it. He is on a ski lift as we speak, with nd4spdbh and leatherwings. good times

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post #27 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 12:13 PM
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leave google3it out of it. He is on a ski lift as we speak, with nd4spdbh and leatherwings. good times
where do you think the dirt/grime is coming from?

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post #28 of 33 Old 03-20-2012, 08:28 PM
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HAHA, ^^^^ now that was a good read...

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post #29 of 33 Old 03-21-2012, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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@zaq123, NealC, it's a seed, dandelion Bike spent the whole winter in an underground parking at my workplace, lots of dust

I think I may have used the wrong word, commuting. What I meant, ride it to work and back, which is like 8 miles of city driving.
Anyway, understood the advice, new chain is coming in pretty soon. And in my almost 2 months of ownership of the bike, I've always cleaned it with a chain cleaner + rags, then lubed. And a toothbrush for the sprocket.

Thanks for the advice guys

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post #30 of 33 Old 03-22-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so the only chain kit I can source fast, locally, has these Talon sprockets. Anyone heard of them? Used them?
Rear Sprocket
And what sorcery is this?
"All Talon Sprockets made feature the Talon patented self cleaning groove which acts to remove mud from teeth and increase your sprocket life."

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post #31 of 33 Old 03-22-2012, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by incult View Post
OK, so the only chain kit I can source fast, locally, has these Talon sprockets. Anyone heard of them? Used them?
Rear Sprocket
And what sorcery is this?
"All Talon Sprockets made feature the Talon patented self cleaning groove which acts to remove mud from teeth and increase your sprocket life."
post a pick of your sprockets without chain on them. How many miles on them? if they are ok, I would leave them alone. That rear is aluminum, right? If so, run it until it's done and get new one (steel) later. Or another aluminum if you don't mind to change them often

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post #32 of 33 Old 03-22-2012, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by incult View Post
OK, so the only chain kit I can source fast, locally, has these Talon sprockets. Anyone heard of them? Used them?
Rear Sprocket
And what sorcery is this?
"All Talon Sprockets made feature the Talon patented self cleaning groove which acts to remove mud from teeth and increase your sprocket life."
Never used a Talon before, but I would not buy an aluminum sprocket. It's going to wear out a whole lot faster than the steel and you ride a 919. If you were worried about weight you would have bought a different bike.....

just my .02.

The places my 919 has taken me:
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post #33 of 33 Old 03-22-2012, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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zaq123, I bought the bike with 15/45. Want to switch it to 17/44 for a change. If the sprockets are good, I'll keep them as spare. Don't know the mileage on them though.

Orange, if I'll find steelies in 17/44 I'll consider them. Honestly, I think I won't even feel the diff between 520 and 530.

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