You're right, but I'm going to force myself to reset the bars again. I set the bars (bounce up and down) while holding it straight instead of being on the rear stand. IDK if it matters or not.
While I was using the rear stand, the bike started sliding up the stand (the sand was working it way towards the front of the bike).
I have the rear stand with the flat holders instead of the round ones that hold onto a peg and they started working from the rear towards the front. I noticed this as I was trying to set the forks.
IDK how you can tell if your forks need setting or not, or how close they are.
Q. Is there any way to tell if your forks aren't properly set?
In terms of rebound setting, the thing to remember is that too much is infinitely worse than not enough.
Too much rebound results in packing, where each successive "bump" results in less "jounce" and the forks effectively get shorter and increasingly less compliant.
Start at 1.5 turns out.
Go 1/8th in, and try it out.
Go back out 1/4 so you're at 1-7/8, and try that out.
Once you get to 1-3/8 out, do you increments in 1/16ths of a turn in either direction.
Be wary of anything less than 1-3/8ths with 10W oil!
Try it out means ride it on roads you know, find some bumps, find some sweeping turns, use the brake.
Really scrutinize the feel you are getting.
Re knowing if they are improperly set.
Motorcycles are very much predominantly Rebound vehicles re the necessary damping force.
So if the front end feels like a "springer", as in all spring, no damping, then there is not enough damping force.
If the front end feels "wooden" and lacking subtle compliance over dips and crowns, then it's too stiff.
It can only be determined by riding in association with comparative assessment, hence the trying of various settings in methodical way.
Just find what you like, but keep in mind that the human tendency can easily be "too much is better without realizing it", so make a point of trying something lighter for a spell, before blowing off the feel in an instant as being too soft, when it actually might be better but just taking some getting used to.
Hence the call for a road ride of varying conditions and concentrating on the feel for the range of conditions.
Do NOT combine ride height changes with rebound changes!
Set your rings so half are showing, in other words mid point.
Get your rebound where you want it.
Then try up and down on the rings to see where you want the ride height.
For your first ride height checks, go up 2 rings, then down 4 rings to see what you can feel.
That will tell you whether to zero in on above or below mid point.
Once you have done that, then try 1 ring at a time on whichever side of mid point has been decided upon.
You likely won't be able to detect a 1 ring change, but it's OK to pretend you can!
There is a "bench check" for initial setup.
This is very very ballpark, per Max McAllister at Traxxion.
Straddle the bike and with as much energy one can muster, do jounce bounce cycles with someone watching the top of the forks.
At release of the bars/cessation of force input into the bars, watch the top of the forks.
If they simply stop at top out, the rebound is too firm.
They should cycle a wee bit once at top out.
Again, this is very ballpark and useful if you don't already have a known/proven starting point setting.