My cheater method is based on my doing a vernier of where my screws are, and knowing how many turns out they are, and my not wanting to touch them.
Hence the 2 mm dimension I gave you.
As part of the assembly, one is wise to do a vernier measurement and note the dimension, of the height from the top of the screw down to the ring marked tower end face, with the screws out 3 turns from their gently seated position.
I just found a write up I did for another member, here it is :
Rebound Rod Set Up re Fork Cap Re-Fitment
________________________________________
CAUTION
If you are not sure of how to set up the rebound rod during final fork cap re-fitment such that you don't ruin it or have it out of range, say so, and I can do bit of blurb on that too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay313
Got me. I followed the service manual, but don't remember anything about a rebound rod set up. I'm making you work too hard for this.
You won't find this in the manual, or most manuals for that matter.
The issue is this, rebound rod needle ends must never be bottomed out in the taper when you are breaking loose or nipping up the cartridge rod's locknut against the mating surface of the fork cap where the rod threads in.
Proper procedure before disassembly is to very lightly bottom out the needle.
Then back out the rebound adjuster 1/2 turn (or 1/4 or 1, it matters not, as long as you know what you used, I use 1/2).
Then loosen the cartridge rod lock nut.
Once you have the fork cap and rebound adjuster rod out of the fork tube and in your hand, turn the rebound adjuster rod back in the same amount.
When you go to reassemble, very lightly run the cap down on the rebound rod until its needle end very lightly seats.
Then back out the rebound adjuster 1/2 turn (or 1/4 or 1, it matters not, as long as you know what you used, I use 1/2).
Then tighten the cartridge rod lock nut.
Then turn the rebound adjuster back in until it again very lightly seats.
Then back it out all the way, and count how many turns you get.
It should be around 3.
Then turn the rebound adjuster all the way again until it very lightly seats again.
Back out 2 full turns, and use that as your starting point.
IF you find you can't get 2 full turns, then you have a problem, likely from the rod being improperly positioned in the fork cap to begin with. Too many turns is also a bad indicator.
If you find yourself in either predicament, it just means that the rebound adjuster rod was set to high or too low in the fork cap to begin with.
I wish I knew or saw this when I was putting things together. I didn't even realize that the nut inside would cause me to not have a full or proper range of adjustment...
Now I have to take the forks off again or remove the handle bars because you can't remove the top without at least sliding the forks down a bit.
I guess I can jack up the front, slide the forks down mid way of the clamps while resting the tire on the ground, then open the tops.
This info should have been in the manual TBH. I didn't even stop to think about why that nut had so much room or that it could have been some kind of adjustment.
At least it's an easy fix and no damage has been done, so it could be far worse.
Agreed that such info should be in the manual.
The manual is good, but not perfect.
Personally, I'd first try removing the bars instead of dropping the tubes to get decent access to the caps.
Quick update: I removed the forks to reset the position of the nut under the cap. Looks like about 1/2" was more than enough to do the trick. I did the bounce setting where it bounces back up quickly and drops down about 1/2" then stops.
It wasn't 3 turns, it was more like 2 and 1/2" of thread below the nut makes it so that the screw goes down in the hole, which I don't like because if you use a thick screwdriver, you're hitting the edges of the housing and a smaller screwdriver fits loose. It's like you need a thick narrow screwdriver, but it's not the kind of thing I see adjusting all the time. I think 1/4" of thread below the nut would have been better but not worth redoing everything for that.
The new tire is holding steady air pressure so everything looks good so far for the front end rebuild. I'll put some miles on her and see how she feels.
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