Ignition coil wires on wrong cylinders - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 35 Old 02-26-2013, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Question Ignition coil wires on wrong cylinders

Posted back in Dec 15,2012..Long story cut short: Got my 2007 919 back from Honda Dealer. After Fuel Pump Regulator and fuel pump repair they tell me 919 has ANOTHER problem, they don't know what it is, BUT it is caused from the original problem. They tell me I need a new ECU for $1000.00 plus change. I already paid them$1100.00. The bike only had 1600 miles on it. I ask, will this fix it, and do I have to pay for the ECU if it does'nt work? Manager tells me he can't gaurantee it will fix the problem and I'll also have to pay for the Ecu too. This is when I came to this site back in November 2012. With your help (fellow 919er's) I tried,tested and bought various things to try and fix bike. Downloaded Manual from this site (Thanks) and started trouble shooting EVERYTHING I could. Some of the tests turned out ok voltage wise some did'nt. I,m an electrician by trade..I changed the map sensor because the numbers did'nt add up, replaced it and the numbers Still did'nt add up. Replaced the ignition coil because the connector looked like it got very hot, almost burnt. That did'nt help. bike still runs , on 2 cylinders but makes a BANGING noise when getting on it just alittle bit. I read thats from it not FIRING right. Not on the TDC. Frustrated, I HAD to walk away from the problem, There are no good mechanics around here!3 months later I'm going to break down and buy the ECU. I go to my parts guy, who used to race motorcycles, and he tells me that he's only seen One ECU go bad in his lifetime, told me to go home and trace out wires for short or brake. I go home and go over the wiring and find nothing, NOW, looking at service manual I see IGNITION COIL wiring order, I go and look at my wiring and see that the Honda dealer hooked up the Ignition coil wires to the WRONG CYLINDERS, all of them! They had on 1 coil #1 and #3, other coil #2 and #4... Manual says #1 blk/w and #4 y/blu, then #2 blk/w and #3 blu/y....Put it back together and hit the starter and all I get is a loud bang, Like a firecracker going off. Tried a couple of more times and same results.. Let it sit couple of hours and try again, now it not a loud noise but more like a POOF. One thing I notice is I don't smell ANY gas fumes..I smell the exhaust pipes and can smell just ALITTLE gas. Maybe leftover fumes. Now, since it started before on 2 cylinders before I'm thinking of unplugging #2 and #3 and switching #1 And #4 and try starting it that way, just to see if it will start.. Plugs are probably fouled even though the dealer said he changed them. I'm going to break down and tow it to A Harley Davidson dealer to have it fixed and hope I have'nt screwed it up anymore than the HONDA DEALER DID!!! Any thoughts from anybody??

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post #2 of 35 Old 02-26-2013, 08:35 PM
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Interesting.... i dont think i have ever heard of a 919 ecu going bad, or a map sensor.

That stated if it ran only on two cylinders with the improper 1/3 2/4 plug -> coil setup... and doesnt run with your proper 1/4 2/3 plug-> coil setup. all thats wrong is you have the wrong coil in the wrong spot.

What i mean is the coil that you currently have running the 1/4 plugs should be the coil for the 2/3 plugs and visa versa. Swap them and let us know. (looking at my bike its hard to see which coils / coil wire combo goes to what plugs but it looks like the one on the side of the frame has the proper length wires for the center 2 n 3 cylinders, and the one thats sideways on the center of the frame goes to 1 n 4, dont hold me to that)

Either way, simply make it to where you either swap all the coil wires around so its exactly opposite of what you got, or if somehow possible simply plug the 2 harness wires into the opposite coil.

What leads me to believe you have them reversed is the fact that it was running on two cylinders, which it ALWAYS will if the coil wires are done in the 1/3 2/4 manner no matter what coil you have firing which pair, simply by nature of the firing order and design of the motor. With it setup properly in the 1/4 2/3 manner you can either have it firing properly on all or exactly 180* off (read sparking at the bottom of the stroke) which means nothing at all.

10 bucks says she fires right up after swapping it.

Please try just swapping your coils like stated above real quick and let us know the outcome, i think it will save you MANY headaches, also give that dealer hell they should not be putting the bike back together bad like that.

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post #3 of 35 Old 02-26-2013, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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I was just looking at a parts display and noticed that outlay of wires and was wondering exactly was you just posted, and you are right, I have it hooked up backwords. When I was doing the wiring this morning, at 4:30 AM Looking at the colors on the y/blu and the blu/y I thought it was ALITTLE hard to tell the difference. I also did not notice the numbers on the wire. TOTAL BRAIN FART. I did notice a partial number on what is NOW the number3 cylinder/plug, but it looked like it might be a number 2- eng2. the number looked faded, the bottom line is I was'nt paying attention. I was so excited about discovering the wiring was hooked up wrong that I rushing to get it hooked up so I could see if it would run, AND BE FIXED, FINALLY!!! Rushing and not paying attention!! I checked the codes on the ECU and came up with #1 and #2 injectors not working . Codes # 12 and # 13, and now I know why. Also codes
#8 faulty TP Sensor #9 Faulty IAT sensor. I can understand the faulty Throttle Position Sensor,I thought that this was PART of what the problem was, ran test on it, but it was OK... but I don't understand the IATsensor? I told my friend who sold me the bike that I KNEW I would find HELP from fellow 919er's earlier this afternoon, and I was right .THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!! Going to redo wiring tomorrow and update this post..Also have to put new plugs in, got to be fouled. Any recomendations on good plugs? Thanks again.. need good mechanics down here in FortMyers Florida, cause we do not have any!!!

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post #4 of 35 Old 02-26-2013, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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called consumer protection on Honda Dealer

In reply to giving hell to Honda dealer, we have a news station that protect consumers from con artists,consumer ripoffs and such.. I called them last week and told them what the Honda dealer told me (Sun Sports Cycle & Watercraft, Inc 33905) They told her that I could not EXCEPT the FACT that I needed a new ECU!! So I am going to call her tomorrow and tell her that they hooked up my wire wrong and MAYBE, they will send a news crew over there and confront them. That's what this news station does..(The service manager, AL is his name) I have in-laws who are lawyers and have talked about a lawsuit about a month ago , but they said it would be hard to prove and costly. I don't know about know, but will look into it again!!The lies I've been told is bullshit and I would like to see this manager lose his job. I don't like to see ANYBODY lose his job, but this guy was a real asshole. We deal with enough crap in this would, And I don't like people messing with my bike. I had the bike for 2 days before it broke down, almost 3 months of missing riding in the country!! Now I'm getting pissed!!I also am going to go in and give them hell, also try to reach the owner, and also I'm going to write as many REVIEWS as I can,FOREVER!!!!!!

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post #5 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by erked in fortmyers View Post
In reply to giving hell to Honda dealer, we have a news station that protect consumers from con artists,consumer ripoffs and such.. I called them last week and told them what the Honda dealer told me (Sun Sports Cycle & Watercraft, Inc 33905) They told her that I could not EXCEPT the FACT that I needed a new ECU!! So I am going to call her tomorrow and tell her that they hooked up my wire wrong and MAYBE, they will send a news crew over there and confront them. That's what this news station does..(The service manager, AL is his name) I have in-laws who are lawyers and have talked about a lawsuit about a month ago , but they said it would be hard to prove and costly. I don't know about know, but will look into it again!!The lies I've been told is bullshit and I would like to see this manager lose his job. I don't like to see ANYBODY lose his job, but this guy was a real asshole. We deal with enough crap in this would, And I don't like people messing with my bike. I had the bike for 2 days before it broke down, almost 3 months of missing riding in the country!! Now I'm getting pissed!!I also am going to go in and give them hell, also try to reach the owner, and also I'm going to write as many REVIEWS as I can,FOREVER!!!!!!
Lies ?
Doubtful.
Instead, it's much worse.
How about a sanctioned Honda Dealer that can't properly diagnose through a wet paper bag.
It was a low level affair for what a pro is supposed to know, remember, and check for.
Lies is much too kind !

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post #6 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 03:50 PM
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i must ask what initially brought your bike into the dealer.

And any word on swapping the coils to get her running?

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post #7 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
i must ask what initially brought your bike into the dealer.
This is an interesting [and crappy for erked] situation to say the least.
But I'd like to know that as well. Why bring it to a shop when you can at the very least g00gl3 the symptoms/problems first, before deciding to shop something?
And as much as it sucks, there's always two sides to the story, so I'd love to hear what the shop has to say about this entire mess (of course we'll probably never know).

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post #8 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Lies ?
Doubtful.
Instead, it's much worse.
How about a sanctioned Honda Dealer that can't properly diagnose through a wet paper bag.
It was a low level affair for what a pro is supposed to know, remember, and check for.
Lies is much too kind !
+1! If you resolve the issue with changing the wires and it's all good after that I would DEMAND a full refund from the dealer and I would escalate it to Honda corporate if necessary.

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post #9 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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To nd4spdbh: I had work done on my firsr bike Susuki DR650. Had it rejetted and they did a great job. I had met a guy that worked there and he had some good ideas and knowledge of bikes. This was a service rep. Not one of the (Top Notch mechanics) Bought my 919 with 1600 miles on it and 2 days later when coming back off the highway from a 'HOT RUN' The bike started 'jerking and wanted to die out on the start from a stop sign. Did that all the way home. Next day started fine, drove it, ran some errand and took it for another 'hot run'. Came to a stop and it died. Started up but had to give it gas to stay alive. The guy I bought it from HARDLY ever rode it ,early on he did, but not really far in past recent years. Maybe 15 miles a year.Never stored the bike.So I'm thinking bad gas. I drain the gas and put new gas in ,take it for a ride , and it's still bad. Since I let it sit overnight 1 time and it was OK the next day, tomorrow it might run better.. Next day started up and idled like crap, took it out for a spin and it ran worse than ever. GOOGLED my symptoms and it took me to WRIST TWISTERS, And found out the problem is supposed to be my Fuel Pump Regulator. At this point I don't know SQUAT about working on a bike, so I take it in to my friend? at Honda Sun Sports. They tell me its a Bad FPR and ALSO my fuel pump. Now I know(searching the internet) That bad gas can cause a fuel pump to go bad,so I OK the work. The rest of the story is a nightmare. But I have ALWAYS got THE best advice from you guys. This is my MAIN research website! For accurate information,TRUSTWISE TOO!

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post #10 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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reply to philth

Today: switched wires to the RIGHT COILS-, I had the right cylinders but on the wrong coils. The wires color y/blu and blu/y are hard to tell apart, BRAIN FART. Rushing and not paying attention! Started up fine, idled alittle rough, but not as bad as before, Still smelled alot of gas, and it took the 2 left pipes (#1 and #2 cylinders) A LONG TIME just to get warm, where as the 2 right pipes got VERY HOT quickly.Did not have to give it alot of gas to get it going like I did before, and I noticed a bit more power with the bike, like maybe I was running on all 4 cylinders. More pull, Like it got its BALLS back! Ran and felt better, but you could tell it still was not RIGHT..Wind out the gears alittle before shifting and I this noise, rappid like a machine gun, not a loud bangging , or a HARD noise but more like a wap,wap wap wap,like hitting a piece of plastic repeatedly untille I shift gears, When I do Shift it wants to CHUG along until I give it more gas and get the rpms up. You can feel the bike jerking alittle bit.I'm Not sure they REALLY changed my FPRegulator!/ I did make sure they gave me my parts back, Maybe I should try swapping that in. ?? Guy that sold me the bike says the noise sounds like my timing. After 2nd run today I checked my timing from #2 Spark plug and could not get a reading on digital timing gun!?? Now I'm going to TRY, and change spark plugs a see where that takes me. After 1st run got back and BUMPED up my idle alittle and it did SEEM to run better,but not alot. I also did not seem to smell alot of gas anymore...I've heard that some bikes self correct themselves over a period of time, Just wishful thinking..Now, I'm wondering what DAMAGE the dealership could have done from hooking up wires to the wrong cylinders?? I have been riding the bike peroidically ever since I got the bike back. Nothing above 3000 RPMs, Just taking it around the neighborhood. 10 miles or less. No hard driving or fast take offs, nothing over 45 MPH. I can't NOT RIDE it, It is (still) a JOY to ride, even though it's WOUNDED!!

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post #11 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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I am going into the shop tomorrow and confront them, I took pictures and video, and it's dated, also I am going to call the consumer news station that called the shop last week, and tell her what I discovered! And hopefully they will send a News crew out there and confront the manager!! They will put people on TV and confront them! They really do watch out for the little guy..

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post #12 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 07:12 PM
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Get that 919 on TV!! Good luck man, give em hell

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post #13 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erked in fortmyers View Post
Today: switched wires to the RIGHT COILS-, I had the right cylinders but on the wrong coils. The wires color y/blu and blu/y are hard to tell apart, BRAIN FART. Rushing and not paying attention! Started up fine, idled alittle rough, but not as bad as before, Still smelled alot of gas, and it took the 2 left pipes (#1 and #2 cylinders) A LONG TIME just to get warm, where as the 2 right pipes got VERY HOT quickly.Did not have to give it alot of gas to get it going like I did before, and I noticed a bit more power with the bike, like maybe I was running on all 4 cylinders. More pull, Like it got its BALLS back! Ran and felt better, but you could tell it still was not RIGHT..Wind out the gears alittle before shifting and I this noise, rappid like a machine gun, not a loud bangging , or a HARD noise but more like a wap,wap wap wap,like hitting a piece of plastic repeatedly untille I shift gears, When I do Shift it wants to CHUG along until I give it more gas and get the rpms up. You can feel the bike jerking alittle bit.I'm Not sure they REALLY changed my FPRegulator!/ I did make sure they gave me my parts back, Maybe I should try swapping that in. ?? Guy that sold me the bike says the noise sounds like my timing. After 2nd run today I checked my timing from #2 Spark plug and could not get a reading on digital timing gun!?? Now I'm going to TRY, and change spark plugs a see where that takes me. After 1st run got back and BUMPED up my idle alittle and it did SEEM to run better,but not alot. I also did not seem to smell alot of gas anymore...I've heard that some bikes self correct themselves over a period of time, Just wishful thinking..Now, I'm wondering what DAMAGE the dealership could have done from hooking up wires to the wrong cylinders?? I have been riding the bike peroidically ever since I got the bike back. Nothing above 3000 RPMs, Just taking it around the neighborhood. 10 miles or less. No hard driving or fast take offs, nothing over 45 MPH. I can't NOT RIDE it, It is (still) a JOY to ride, even though it's WOUNDED!!

Its possible that any type of long term (even the small amount of riding like you stated) on just two cylinders has caused the cylinder walls to get washed with the excess unburnt fuel and thus scouring the cylinders / pistons / rings.

One way to check for a BAD FPR is that the center two cylinders plugs are fouled... obviously pop some new ones in (they are all of a couple bucks a piece) and go from there.

I would also immediately change the oil and filter as stated you probably have contaminated the oil with the excess buildup of unburnt fuel.

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post #14 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Gonna check into scouring the cylinders / pistons / rings. I will not be riding the bike anymore, with that information!! So now, Im looking at having to have the engine rebuilt?? Gonna change oil tonight! Guy who sold me the bike said I should.nt ride it till I got it fixed, Some people have said that it is ok to run on 2 cylinders!!

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post #15 of 35 Old 02-27-2013, 09:09 PM
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Well the unburnt fuel washes the oil off the cylinders and causes excess friction ... It may or may not of caused damage. A simple compression and leak down test will let you know if there are any issues without having to tear apart the motor.

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post #16 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 12:54 PM
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Fairly low new mileage bike.
Low probability of FPR failure.
What fault codes presently display on the FI indicator lamp that is between the speedo and tacho?
Piston cylinder wall damage is possible from fuel wash, but my guess is that your chances of no effective level damage is greater than effective level damage having occurred. I think 4spd is saying the same thing.
Lower 2 rings are oil rings as primary compression sealing is by top ring.
Top ring only properly loads wall if there is combustion pressure.
How old was the fuel that was in the tank ?

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post #17 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Fairly low new mileage bike.
Low probability of FPR failure.
What fault codes presently display on the FI indicator lamp that is between the speedo and tacho?
Piston cylinder wall damage is possible from fuel wash, but my guess is that your chances of no effective level damage is greater than effective level damage having occurred. I think 4spd is saying the same thing.
Lower 2 rings are oil rings as primary compression sealing is by top ring.
Top ring only properly loads wall if there is combustion pressure.
How old was the fuel that was in the tank ?
i could see the FPR failing... the bike sat for long periods of time and that seems to be one of the factors that corrodes the FPR.

Fuel pump due to old gas... eh maybe its possible.

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post #18 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
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i could see the FPR failing... the bike sat for long periods of time and that seems to be one of the factors that corrodes the FPR.

Fuel pump due to old gas... eh maybe its possible.
Yes, but I'm wondering when the bike first ever saw fuel.
I have a feeling that badly aged fuel is at play here, and even more so if it was a methanol blend.

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post #19 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 06:38 PM
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Yes, but I'm wondering when the bike first ever saw fuel.
I have a feeling that badly aged fuel is at play here, and even more so if it was a methanol blend.
yeah my hypothesis on bad fpr's is those bike who do lots of sitting (like you poor winter folk) with gas in the system it just corrodes the FPR, and the ethanol blend just adds to this.


EITHER WAY, to the OP, i would get and or do a leak down test AND compression test on your bike before much more riding, If your saying its still not running right there is an issue.

The 919 is a VERY simple bike compared to other fuel injected inline 4's... its also VERY reliable... really only the FPR goes bad on the thing... all the other sensors are hardly if ever fail unless they have been tampered with.

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post #20 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 09:08 PM
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I had a spark plug wire go bad. Tou could also check those.

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post #21 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Been a long day: Fuel pump regulator- When I took the bike in it died every time I came to a stop.Had to give it alot of gas just to get going and not stall out, alot of jerking if I did'nt give it gas. ALOT of gas fumes. When I got the bike back, it ran better, no jerking, still gas fumes, but not as bad .Popping on downshift. Gas could have been in there as much as a year with stabil in it. Don't know if he put it in before or after he parked it. His brother is a long distance truck driver and leaves his bike at my friend house, does not live around here, lives in his semi. Comes around maybe twice a year. It's on a charger and my friend STARTS it up every 2 weeks or so, but does not drive it! Now memory codes- 8 TPsensor and 9 IAT sensor 12 Faulty #1 Injector and 13 Faulty #2 Injector. I switched the wire when i redid the wires the right way and 2 left pipes are alittle warmer than they used to be, not burn your hands like the 2 right pipes are.I know your gonna say its the FPR and pull the 2 middle plugs but I just got home alittle while ago. Did go out and bought a compression tester and am going to do a leak down test. Watched a couple of video's on youtube on how to do both jobs. Since the Honda dealer put the wirers to the wrong plugs I really don't know or trust WHAT they did or did'nt do. They did tell me they were going to clean the injectors, that all they had to do was pull them out, SIMPLE JOB, they said. I was looking at my injectors, and there is no way you JUST PULL THEM OUT ,without removing the throttle body. SO, I am going to start from scratch. I know they did not check the codes, I got to believe the problem is in the injectors. They had said that the plugs were all firing but the fuel pump was not putting out enough pressure. and the injectors were spraying fine. I don't believe anything they said,NOW. I ran electical tests on all the codes awhile ago (about 2 months ago) and the only numbers that added up ok were the TPsensor. I'm alittle thrown on the fuel injector test (20*C/68*F)The numbers did not add up on the injectors, I think it was like 12,close ?1 I was thinking that MAYBE it was the ECU and that they shorted it out somehow,They have proven themselves to be lousy mechanics with no ethics or morals! I really thought the problem is with the TPSensor, but the test I ran on that came out fine. Guy that sold me the bike originally thought it was some kind of sensor, so we checked the map sensor, tested out of range, tested all the way back to the ECU, bought a new one and came up with the same numbers, out of range. Now we are both Electricians, so I'm only ignorant at working on bikes . I looked into buying new wires today, but thought about swapping them. maybe got kinked, very hard to get at the plugs. I can see the guy Yanking on them!! Tomorrow, got the day off, Pull the plugs, change the oil run tests on all codes but first check codes again. I erased them after I checked them the first time. Check them at least 4 times since then and came up with nothing.Thought about doing a vacuum test, but if it's the 2 left cylinders it sounds like I don't need to.I have also replaced the coil for #2 and #3 Plugs about a month ago. Also no difference.....

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post #22 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 10:16 PM
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OP the name of the game with the 919 is KISS.... thats Keep It Simple Stupid. No joke if something is wrong with the bike its often the simplest of fixes.

That stated heed the warning above about running on two cylinders... compression / leakdown tests would be on the top of my list.

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post #23 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Good point: I have been reading and watching video's about Doing a compression test and having the adapter getting stuck when pulling it out of the cylinder, So i'm thinking of putting some threadlock on the threads to permanetly keep it together, maybe alittle duck tape..As far as the tests, It's like going to the dentist and hoping you don't have a root canal!! This could be very painful!! I have read that when doing a compression test make sure you unhook the wires going into the ignition coils??

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post #24 of 35 Old 02-28-2013, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erked in fortmyers View Post
Good point: I have been reading and watching video's about Doing a compression test and having the adapter getting stuck when pulling it out of the cylinder, So i'm thinking of putting some threadlock on the threads to permanetly keep it together, maybe alittle duck tape..As far as the tests, It's like going to the dentist and hoping you don't have a root canal!! This could be very painful!! I have read that when doing a compression test make sure you unhook the wires going into the ignition coils??

yeah just so you dont zap yourself.

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post #25 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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yesterday when to order oil filters, guy there told me probably nothing to worry as far as the cylinders. I don't feel that confident! Today wanted to check my PFI codes since I cleared the memory about a month ago, so I can see if something else popped up. I take a video on my cameria so I can go back and look at the number of blinks,and also document it for lawsuit(If I'm lucky). I was looking at the first video and I misinterpreted the blinks.. Another brain fart!! The original codes read 1, 2, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15.. I ckecked the map sensor and it was out of range, so I replaced it, checked again, still out of range. checked 8 TP SENSOR -no blinks,-checked 9 IAT sensor- no blinks- checked injectors, came up with different numbers. Not sure if it was the temperature, but the numbers were the same on 3 of the injectors that I could get to, I really don't think it's the injectors because I'm getting PLENTY of gas fumes. I believe it thinks it's still cold! IAT sensor. Checked PFI this morning and NOW codes read #8 and #9! Now since I changed the Map Sensor the codes 1, 2, 12, 13, 14, 15 are gone! NowIf I look at the System Diagram on p.93 (5-5) of the sevice manual the TP sensor and the IAT sensor and the Map Sensor all share the same G/O wire, that goes back to the Black ECU #22. I'm going to do a continuity test on that tomorrow, Got to go to work at 11 pm. Also the#1 and #2 Injectors share the same ground, so that may mean something about why the 2 left pipes only get WARM? Now I went ahead and continued to check the TP sensor Like I (had) 8 blinks (yellow/red) + (Ground) -,got 5 on the voltage test, went on to voltage test (red/yellow(+)-green/orange(-) get 0.1 Out of range..Open or short circuit in green/orange wire,loose or poor contact at ECU connectors...The IAT sensor says the same thing even though I get 5 on the voltage test-Green/orange map sensor is also green/ orange,,Thinking I'm in the right area.? The 1 thing I have not checked was for vacuum leak at the map sensor, I did get a vacuum tester and was meaning to check that but never got to it.

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post #26 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 05:10 PM
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Dude...

1. Use paragraphs please, not a wall of text

2. KISS Principle. Go back to basics. Change spark plugs, oil, basic stuff. If you still have problems, check the battery next (standing voltage and under load). Still have problems? Check common grounds. This is becoming a major headache.

3. 1 thing at a time. Identify ONE problem, and strive to solve it before moving onto the next one. But actually identify what the problem is first.

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post #27 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 05:23 PM
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Dude...

2. KISS Principle. Go back to basics. Change spark plugs, oil, basic stuff. If you still have problems, check the battery next (standing voltage and under load). Still have problems? Check common grounds. This is becoming a major headache.

3. 1 thing at a time. Identify ONE problem, and strive to solve it before moving onto the next one. But actually identify what the problem is first.
Golly gee whiz, you are describing a logical and rationale approach to problem definition and subsequent diagnostics.
AMEN !

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post #28 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 05:45 PM
i appear missing
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
a logical and rationale approach to problem definition and subsequent diagnostics
shhh.. that kind of nonsense doesn't belong on the internet.

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post #29 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Next paragraft before I go back to bed. I forgot to mention that I checked the codes before I quite for the day and the PFI light stayed on.
I took my battery in about a week after I joined this website and that was one of the first recommedation. I took in in battery in and it was putting out about 60%. Bought a new one , and it did'nt make any difference..
Checking grounds tomorrow, then plugs, then compression test and leak down..
Good Night and Thanks

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post #30 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erked in fortmyers View Post
Next paragraft before I go back to bed. I forgot to mention that I checked the codes before I quite for the day and the PFI light stayed on.
I took my battery in about a week after I joined this website and that was one of the first recommedation. I took in in battery in and it was putting out about 60%. Bought a new one , and it did'nt make any difference..
Checking grounds tomorrow, then plugs, then compression test and leak down..
Good Night and Thanks
Practically a brand new bike and all this going on.
You have my sympathy.
Look for a common denominator, including who did what re previous work.

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post #31 of 35 Old 03-02-2013, 06:27 PM
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Considering what happened with the coils, it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if a spark plug boot got damaged or not connected all the way, and/or an injector wire is connected properly somewhere.

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post #32 of 35 Old 03-03-2013, 01:07 PM
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seriously... stop going all over the place... keep it simple. does the FI light blink when you turn the bike on (without any jumper etc)? Either way... kiss method, i would do as follows

1. Check for loose leads on the battery

2. Change oil and filter.

3. Leak down and compression test (due to extended running on two cylinders)
3A. If tests are good continue to step 4, If not take it to a good mechanic, as new rings and honing are in order at the very least
4. While you have the tank up check the main ground on the backbone of the frame

5. Change spark plugs, insure plug wires / coils are in proper locations and FIRMLY seated on the plugs

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post #33 of 35 Old 03-03-2013, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
seriously... stop going all over the place... keep it simple. does the FI light blink when you turn the bike on (without any jumper etc)? Either way... kiss method, i would do as follows

1. Check for loose leads on the battery

2. Change oil and filter.

3. Leak down and compression test (due to extended running on two cylinders)
3A. If tests are good continue to step 4, If not take it to a good mechanic, as new rings and honing are in order at the very least
4. While you have the tank up check the main ground on the backbone of the frame

5. Change spark plugs, insure plug wires / coils are in proper locations and FIRMLY seated on the plugs
4 & 5 are both very astute suggestions.
For 5 I would substitute the words FOR SURE for FIRMLY.

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post #34 of 35 Old 03-18-2013, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Did compression test. Got 135 psi on 1,2 and #4 cylinder. Got 180 psi on #3
Now Junk

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post #35 of 35 Old 03-18-2013, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erked in fortmyers View Post
Did compression test. Got 135 psi on 1,2 and #4 cylinder. Got 180 psi on #3
Now Junk
interesting you got 135 on 1 2 and 4, and a proper 180 on number 3.

Did you do the test proper? did you redo the test to make sure those were the right numbers?

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