Ignition Assembly broken - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Ignition Assembly broken

Well, I got to work today and I could not turn the key to lock the forks. Went into work hoping that when I left at the end of the day it would magically work....well that didn't happen.

Looks like my ignition assembly is done.


Any recommendations out there? Chinese assembly for $30, or is it better to go OEM?

Does anyone here have the complete lock set (ignition, gas cap, seat release)?

Thank you in advance.

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post #2 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 07:59 PM
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go keyless... its not like the OEM ignition is any sort of deterrent anyways...
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post #3 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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What all does that entail? Then I could be a like the Diavel.

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post #4 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 08:27 PM
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Try using a graphite based lubricant before you write it off

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post #5 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I tried shaving some graphite from a pencil down into the ignition and that didn't seem to do anything.

Unfortunately this is the only way I can describe this so TWSS, but if I put just the tip of the key into the ignition, I am able to turn the key 360 degrees. So that tells me something is wrong with the assembly.

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post #6 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbonater View Post
I tried shaving some graphite from a pencil down into the ignition and that didn't seem to do anything.

Unfortunately this is the only way I can describe this so TWSS, but if I put just the tip of the key into the ignition, I am able to turn the key 360 degrees. So that tells me something is wrong with the assembly.
You have to be kidding me. You're either being sarcastic (if so, well done) or you're a lost cause (please don't vote or breed).

The ignition cover can spin 360. Mine does that with no issues.

Now again, use some actual graphite based lubricant spray and spray it into the ignition lock. You will then need to insert the key and work the lubricant into the tumblers until it is smooth again.

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post #7 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 10:03 PM
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I have found my 919 key to be quite "soft" and if not careful it can easily twist along its length, especially re unlocking the seat (now I press down on the seat to put less load on the seat lock and it helps keep the key straight)
I had problems with my ignition key slot, it wouldn't turn.
I noticed the key was out some, straightened it, squirted in some liquid graphite for locks, and it worked like a charm.
Short story, is you key OK ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbonater View Post
Well, I got to work today and I could not turn the key to lock the forks. Went into work hoping that when I left at the end of the day it would magically work....well that didn't happen.

Looks like my ignition assembly is done.


Any recommendations out there? Chinese assembly for $30, or is it better to go OEM?

Does anyone here have the complete lock set (ignition, gas cap, seat release)?

Thank you in advance.

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post #8 of 43 Old 06-20-2016, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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I think the key is ok. I have never had an issue with the ignition or seat unlock. My gas cap was always a pain in the ass, but that was because a previous owner broke a key off in it and messed all the tumblers off.

As far as I can tell, my key is straight, with no defects.

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post #9 of 43 Old 06-21-2016, 01:30 AM
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Do what PV said and lubricate the bitch. I thought my locks were toast several times. Sprayed some WD40 on the key and worked it around inside the lock. Back in business

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post #10 of 43 Old 06-21-2016, 08:32 AM
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Does it still work normally otherwise? You say it won't let you lock the handlebars but don't say if it still works otherwise.... If it still works otherwise my suggestion would be don't try to lock the handlebars... problem solved.

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post #11 of 43 Old 06-21-2016, 10:58 AM
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It's not the key or any other part north of the electrical switch ... it is just the fork lock mechanism. Happened to me a while back, and a generous spray of WD40 along with working the key back and forth eventually freed it up. Just like any other part that involves sliding metal against metal it needs occasional lubrication.

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post #12 of 43 Old 06-21-2016, 03:32 PM
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Worn key? It's hard to spot, but can make life a real bitch. Flop the key 180 degrees helped me before I broke my key off in the gas tank. It's not terribly difficult to remove the ignition if you have to, assuming you're willing to take a punch to the security bolts holding it in... I've not dealt with one in the locked position, so that could make things a lot more difficult.

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post #13 of 43 Old 06-22-2016, 09:16 AM
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I would use Sea Foam Deep Creep in the lock, generously, then work it several times. This is not uncommon for motorcycle lock mechanisms; they need to be lubricated or the fork lock tab stops extending. There is probably nothing wrong with your actual ignition switch itself.

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post #14 of 43 Old 06-22-2016, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I didn't specify, it is locked in the OFF position. I cannot turn it to ON or the LOCK position.

Video of the problem:

I showed how the ignition cover is rotating 360 degrees on the 919, but when I try that on my RC51 and some other bikes I have, they did not rotate at all. I took offense to Pvster's comments.

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post #15 of 43 Old 06-22-2016, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbonater View Post
Sorry I didn't specify, it is locked in the OFF position. I cannot turn it to ON or the LOCK position.

Video of the problem:
https://youtu.be/Y1rHAzmbOt8

I showed how the ignition cover is rotating 360 degrees on the 919, but when I try that on my RC51 and some other bikes I have, they did not rotate at all. I took offense to Pvster's comments.
The 919's top lock plate/cover is different from many other Hondas. The keyway shield plate *can* rotate, or at least mine does. Also, you need to flood the keyway with lube until it is full, use a pin to get the keyway shield to move aside and just flood it. The little squirts you used won't do anything, especially not with the key in the way.

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post #16 of 43 Old 06-22-2016, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
The 919's top lock plate/cover is different from many other Hondas. The keyway shield plate *can* rotate, or at least mine does. Also, you need to flood the keyway with lube until it is full, use a pin to get the keyway shield to move aside and just flood it. The little squirts you used won't do anything, especially not with the key in the way.
+1. I'll even take a video of my key cover if telling you it's normal offends you.

You also need to take pressure off of the tumblers by moving the key in/out and spraying liberally (go away MM). When my key jammed up, it took me a good 10-15 minutes of constantly working the lubricant and key through the tumblers.

Again, use a graphite based lubricant, they are best for key locks/tumblers. If telling you again offends you, then I'll just repeat it: use a graphite based lubricant. To clarify, no this does NOT mean using the shavings of graphite from a pencil... I'm pretty sure THAT doesn't help your situation any so you might have made it worse...

If still in doubt, take a close look at your key and make sure that each ridge is not rounded/worn that they won't engage the tumblers in the ignition.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for your feelings if anything in this post offends you

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post #17 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 02:17 AM
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I disagree with the use of a graphite based lube in the case of an already stuck fork lock. Graphite lubes don't really have penetrant capability, don't wick where they're needed to free the fork lock and are IMHO best used for maintaining a working lock or loosening up a sticky or high-effort lock. For one that's already got a stuck fork lock, a good high quality penetrant/lubricant like Kroil or SeaFoam Deep Creep is a must as it wicks well and can find its way into the steel fork lock bolt mechanism easily. I've used those to free up stuck fork locks for decades, average time 3-5 minutes.

It's not a good idea to use the stock fork lock anyway, on any bike. It doesn't prevent theft and they can be bypassed by a strong guy wrenching on the bars to break off the stops. This will, by the way, total your bike under current insurance standards.

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post #18 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 05:01 AM
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I had a similar problem in a car once. Left me stranded at a Starbucks and resulted in me ODing on frappucions and lemon cake until AAA came 2 hours later. The issue was actually the key... The key basically wore down enough in a couple spots to where it didn't engage the right teeth inside the lock. The AAA guy cut a new key based on a lock impression and it worked like a charm. Comparing the new key to my old one, you could really tell how worn it was.

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post #19 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 06:48 AM
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It's in the off position rather than lock position, so would the fork lock be causing this or stiff/stuck tumblers?

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

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post #20 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steev View Post
It's in the off position rather than lock position, so would the fork lock be causing this or stiff/stuck tumblers?

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
If the fork lock part is stuck in the off or retracted position but you can still turn the bike off and on easily, that's usually the fork lock.

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post #21 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 07:09 PM
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Hey Gibb, I checked mine when I got home from work and it does the exact same thing, now it's going to drive me nuts, maybe it'll make me forget about the gauge face bubbles


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post #22 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Hey Gibb, I checked mine when I got home from work and it does the exact same thing, now it's going to drive me nuts, maybe it'll make me forget about the gauge face bubbles
LOL! I don't have bubbles (yet..) and I'm just not going to check for the head lock.

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post #23 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 09:24 PM
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You can say you're not going to check, but one day you won't be able to stop yourself and you'll look around to see if anyone is looking then you'll do it and you'll never to be able to un-do what you've done


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post #24 of 43 Old 06-23-2016, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
If the fork lock part is stuck in the off or retracted position but you can still turn the bike off and on easily, that's usually the fork lock.
This was my thought as well. It shows that the OP can't turn the key at all. So this leads me to suspect that the fork lock part isn't the problem, which is why I suggested the graphite lube to begin with. If it was the fork lock causing the problems, I'd agree completely with your assessment and suggestion.

However, I think the bigger culprit might be the OP's key itself. Seeing that he put shavings of graphite from a pencil into his ignition, I wouldn't expect much of him

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post #25 of 43 Old 06-24-2016, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Just because you are deaf doesn't mean you have a free pass to be an asshole. The whole point of the forum is for people to share and learn things and really, besides you, everyone else has been helpful and not condescending. I'm not the only one who hadn't noticed that the cover moved.

I tried wd40, over and over. Let it sit for awhile and tried again. I tried the graphite approach, but nothing worked. So this morning I ordered a new assembly. Honda 2004 2005 2006 2007 CB900F 919 Lock Set Ignition Switch Tank Cap Video | eBay

This won't be all bad, because my tank lock was really jacked up, so a new one will be a welcome change.

While the bike is torn apart I'm debating whether or not to switch out the gauge cluster to something digital, and getting and upgraded headlight. I've seen some great headlight mods on here. Ideally I'd like plug and play.

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post #26 of 43 Old 06-24-2016, 01:42 PM
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Just because you are deaf doesn't mean you have a free pass to be an asshole.

What does ASL mean then?

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post #27 of 43 Old 06-24-2016, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbonater View Post
Just because you are deaf doesn't mean you have a free pass to be an asshole. The whole point of the forum is for people to share and learn things and really, besides you, everyone else has been helpful and not condescending. I'm not the only one who hadn't noticed that the cover moved.
I'm sorry, did I piss in your cereal?

You'll notice that I was polite and tried to be helpful at first. Then I gave you a good natured WT style ribbing (since we're like family here). After your tantrum, it just became fun to poke at you. Some advice: grow some thicker skin, enjoy the laughs, and carry on.

For the record, I never used my deafness as a reason to be an asshole. Nor is it my intent to be condescending. But when something stupid is done, I'll point it out. If that's what makes me an asshole, then so be it. Sorry you can't handle the truth princess.

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post #28 of 43 Old 06-24-2016, 03:50 PM
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What does ASL mean then?
Good one!

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post #29 of 43 Old 06-24-2016, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbonater View Post
Just because you are deaf doesn't mean you have a free pass to be an asshole. The whole point of the forum is for people to share and learn things and really, besides you, everyone else has been helpful and not condescending. I'm not the only one who hadn't noticed that the cover moved.

I tried wd40, over and over. Let it sit for awhile and tried again. I tried the graphite approach, but nothing worked. So this morning I ordered a new assembly. Honda 2004 2005 2006 2007 CB900F 919 Lock Set Ignition Switch Tank Cap Video | eBay

WD40 is not a penetrant, it's not a lubricant, it's a water displacer. If you thought WD40 was going to resolve a fork lock issue, well, you're sadly mistaken.

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post #30 of 43 Old 06-27-2016, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbonater View Post
Just because you are deaf doesn't mean you have a free pass to be an asshole. The whole point of the forum is for people to share and learn things and really, besides you, everyone else has been helpful and not condescending. I'm not the only one who hadn't noticed that the cover moved.

I tried wd40, over and over. Let it sit for awhile and tried again. I tried the graphite approach, but nothing worked. So this morning I ordered a new assembly. Honda 2004 2005 2006 2007 CB900F 919 Lock Set Ignition Switch Tank Cap Video | eBay

This won't be all bad, because my tank lock was really jacked up, so a new one will be a welcome change.

While the bike is torn apart I'm debating whether or not to switch out the gauge cluster to something digital, and getting and upgraded headlight. I've seen some great headlight mods on here. Ideally I'd like plug and play.
You attempted to use pencil shavings to fix a lock... which absolutely deserved a good natured ribbing... I honestly thought you were joking at first... then you over reacted, and now here we are...

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post #31 of 43 Old 06-27-2016, 09:23 PM
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Maybe he got too excited on step # 2???

How to Lubricate a Lock Using Graphite From a Pencil
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post #32 of 43 Old 06-29-2016, 03:45 AM
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Subscribed! Some people should have used their Google machines before they talked shit.

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post #33 of 43 Old 06-29-2016, 08:36 AM
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Subscribed! Some people should have used their Google machines before they talked shit.
I can find a how to on how to sexually assault a walrus on the internet... just because it's there doesn't mean it's something you should do....

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I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
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post #34 of 43 Old 06-29-2016, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
Subscribed! Some people should have used their Google machines before they talked shit.
I can find a how to on how to sexually assault a walrus on the internet... just because it's there doesn't mean it's something you should do....
Link?

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post #35 of 43 Old 06-29-2016, 11:03 AM
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I feel like the IT department would frown on me looking that up on company time... lol I'm sure google will take you there.

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post #36 of 43 Old 07-19-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ignition assembly installed, bike running again.

one concern was the plug on the assembly I purchase, it had 3 prongs, whereas the old one had 4. Everything seems to be functioning ok, but I'm wondering if that may cause issues. Can anyone speak to that?


After this process, I'm very much considering a replacement gauge assembly and new LED headlight.
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Bikes:
2004 V-Rod (sold)
2004 CBR600F4i (sold)
2003 RC51
2010 Triump Scrambler (sold)
2003 CB900F
2004 CBR 600rr

Non Bikes:
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2005 CTS V (sold)
2006 Audi S4
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post #37 of 43 Old 07-24-2016, 08:26 PM
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There were various differences in the wiring cluster connections between pre-'04 and post-'04.

I remember we had to switch the pin layout when I gave Osiris my gauges after swapping to a Koso unit. You most likely just got the 'other' version.

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post #38 of 43 Old 07-24-2016, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
There were various differences in the wiring cluster connections between pre-'04 and post-'04.

I remember we had to switch the pin layout when I gave Osiris my gauges after swapping to a Koso unit. You most likely just got the 'other' version.

Good to know, thank you! I was replacing an 03 unit, so I guess the one I bought and is in now is....an 04+?

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post #39 of 43 Old 07-24-2016, 08:41 PM
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Most likely - here is a video of what I had to do on my swap:


2009 Aprilia Tuono - Ginger
2001 XR650R BRP (Big Red Pig)
2006 Honda 599 - Ex wrecked it :-D
2007 Honda CB900F (sold)
2006 Honda VTX 1300C (sold)
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post #40 of 43 Old 07-24-2016, 10:26 PM
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Glad it's working for you. Be sure to use some graphite shavings from a pencil to keep your ignition lubed up. Maybe you won't have to swap it out a 2nd time...

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