Interesting, I didn't know about this.
We can't do this because the fuel pump doesn't run. No pump = no running bike. This method will only help once the bike starts again.
The filter is brand-spanking-new, so there's no point in checking. The fuel pump works - I tested it on the battery.
You could be correct, however, it could be the case that the pump loses connection (either fully or partial) during certain conditions. That why you'd want to check the connection for both voltage and amps. I've had wires partially fried on the inside. You see the outside, that's why the voltage drop is important. I had it happen on a starter connection.
The filter WAS new. In addition to a tank that might not have been stored properly, there could be a flaw in the filter itself. I bought a carb that wasn't stored properly, the fuel turned into a gel and had to be scooped out.
I know oil filters that use a 1 way check valve... if that fails, it could block flow. That's not to say the fuel filter has a one way valve that failed, but to say that defects happen.
It could be that the ECU sees that the bike isn't responding properly, so it goes into safe mode where the fuel pump shuts off. This could be because the amp going to the fuel pump aren't producing the expected fuel pressure. The ECU could read this as a fuel leak and shut off the fuel pump.
A simple check would remove these things as a factor. Just as much as if you took a known good ECU or put your ECU on a known good bike and ran it. Removing factors even if it's just a slight chance, narrows things down.
Edit: I'm wondering if the ECU has a breaker type logic in it... it sends a voltage/amp to the fuel pump, doesn't get the proper feed back, shuts it down and waits to some kind of reset.