How to clean and lube chain correctly - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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How to clean and lube chain correctly

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good thread for this? I have searched and searched (I think I am doing that part right) and I haven't found anything about cleaning and lubing other than what everyone on WT likes to use. I'm a motorcycle novice so any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

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post #2 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 07:40 AM
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Youtube is a great source of how-to's. Here's an example for chain maintenance:

Clean and Lube Your Chain - YouTube

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post #3 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 08:02 AM
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I'm pretty sure there are threads about this all over.


My method, wipe down with rag and Kerosene (wear gloves that shit is hard to get off your hands) then short ride to warm up the chain and lube with Dupont Chain Saver.

I used to use a plastic brush but I found that it wasn't needed, a rag and kerosene will get the gunk off just fine.

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post #4 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 08:48 AM
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There is a link in the Naked Bikes forum, in the 919 helpful hints... it suggests dunking the chain in a bucket of kerosene and scrubbing/ brushing/wiping the old grease & dirt off and then re-lubing, when doing your chain adjustment checks. For more routine maintenance, i usually spray the chain with a bunch of WD-40 and then wipe it down with a rag.

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post #5 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeeDeeGee View Post
I'm pretty sure there are threads about this all over.


My method, wipe down with rag and Kerosene (wear gloves that shit is hard to get off your hands) then short ride to warm up the chain and lube with Dupont Chain Saver.

I used to use a plastic brush but I found that it wasn't needed, a rag and kerosene will get the gunk off just fine.
I second that method. I use Bel Ray Superclean chain lube, basically the same sort of sauce as the DuPont stuff.

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post #6 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 10:53 AM
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as much as i love wd40.... dont use it on chains.

the problem with it is that its very thin, and is pressurized. It gets passed the O rings then proceeds to dry out the lube in the sealed part of the chain due to its water displacement properties, causing premature wear.

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post #7 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeeDeeGee View Post
I'm pretty sure there are threads about this all over.


My method, wipe down with rag and Kerosene (wear gloves that shit is hard to get off your hands) then short ride to warm up the chain and lube with Dupont Chain Saver.

I used to use a plastic brush but I found that it wasn't needed, a rag and kerosene will get the gunk off just fine.
+2 here, this reminds me I need to do my chain today


Dan
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post #8 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. I have heard from some folks that taking a brush to your chain is bad and I have heard from some long time bike owners that you don't even need to clean it before lubing it. I just wanted some general thoughts. So maybe take some WD-40 and spray heavy on a rag and wipe down as opposed to spraying it directly on there?

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post #9 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 12:17 PM
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Diesel and a tooth brush - NOT THE GRUNGE BRUSH as it is way too stiff and can easily tear up your o-rings.

After cleaning the chain I wipe it down with a few paper towels, getting it as dry as possible.

The Dupont Teflon Chain Saver is great stuff!
(Cheap Cycle Parts has it for ~$40 a can! )

BTW - diesel and kerosene are very similar, and diesel is easier to find.


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post #10 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTraffic View Post
Diesel and a tooth brush - NOT THE GRUNGE BRUSH as it is way too stiff and can easily tear up your o-rings.

After cleaning the chain I wipe it down with a few paper towels, getting it as dry as possible.

The Dupont Teflon Chain Saver is great stuff!
(Cheap Cycle Parts has it for ~$40 a can! )

BTW - diesel and kerosene are very similar, and diesel is easier to find.
Walmart has it for $6.96/can

DuPont Teflon Chain Saver, 11 oz: Automotive : Walmart.com

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post #11 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 01:25 PM
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Crap! I've had the luxury of yanking the chain off the DRZ and cleaning it up in a snap, now I have to join the rivet club.....a bucket of diesel and a rag? Ugh!

:buell:
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post #12 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTraffic View Post
BTW - diesel and kerosene are very similar, and diesel is easier to find.
Hmm, good point. There's only one place in my town that has Kerosene.

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post #13 of 23 Old 09-09-2012, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash97 View Post
Crap! I've had the luxury of yanking the chain off the DRZ and cleaning it up in a snap, now I have to join the rivet club.....a bucket of diesel and a rag? Ugh!
you can always run a clip style master on the 919... but its not recommended.

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post #14 of 23 Old 10-10-2012, 04:37 PM
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speaking of chains, i'm going to be replacing the chain on my 07 919, looking for a few suggestions on the best quality chain on the market. for a street bike that is.

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post #15 of 23 Old 10-10-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamrdwn View Post
speaking of chains, i'm going to be replacing the chain on my 07 919, looking for a few suggestions on the best quality chain on the market. for a street bike that is.
I think most on here will tell you DID. I followed recommendations and got the DID X-ring rated up to 1300cc and am very satisfied. I think I've made one small adjustment in almost 5k miles.

D.I.D. 530ZVM2 Heavy Duty 1300cc Rated X'ring Sealed Street Chain Sprocket Center

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post #16 of 23 Old 10-10-2012, 06:44 PM
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thanks for the info, greatly appreciated. another question for ya, i'm looking at the 520 conversion chain and sprocket set from DID . what if any difference will that make to the performance of my bike? I also read somewhere that by going with 41 tooth rear sprocket instead of stock I could get rid of that minor handle bar buzz at 4500 rpm. thanks.

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post #17 of 23 Old 10-10-2012, 06:56 PM
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If you search 520 conversion a crap ton of stuff should come up. Maybe PM LDH, he seems to be the go to guy for the 520 kits.

I dunno what it would do performance wise with the 520, being lighter has to have some affect(effect?) though.

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post #18 of 23 Old 10-10-2012, 06:56 PM
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Hamrdwn, get the 520 conversion in the 17/44 set-up from LDH. He has a screamin deal going on for us 919 owners.

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post #19 of 23 Old 10-11-2012, 04:17 AM
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Thumbs up

thanks guys for the info. mutch appreciated .

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post #20 of 23 Old 10-11-2012, 07:50 AM
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The best method that i ever did come across is as follows.
1. to get the pesky factory oil off you need to find some fine sand (if it is to gritty it might scratch your new sprocket).
2. lift the back end of your bike up so the tire can freely spin.
3. turn your bike on put it into 1st and let the chain start rotating.
4. grab a handful of dirt a place your hand with firm pressure around that chain as it spins.
5. rinse the sand off with water and then grease that puppy up with crisco.

If you give it a good scrub down with sand the first time you should never have to clean it again.
If any of you are willing to try it let me know how it goes.

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post #21 of 23 Old 10-11-2012, 01:18 PM
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I tried your method above, but with a brick (after all, it's just sand squeezed together with a bit of glue, right?).

Problem was, I couldn't bend the brick enough to wrap it around the chain, so I had to formulate a solution.

TWO BRICKS! One in each hand!

It's a bit tricky getting that inside brick on the chain without losing more than two fingers from the rotating tire, but it can be done (heck, I only lost one!) So I can do this at least 4 more times in the life of this chain. Then I'll just have to switch hands.


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post #22 of 23 Old 10-11-2012, 01:29 PM
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Somewhere outside of North America is a member reading the last two post scratching their head... You guys are terrible

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post #23 of 23 Old 10-11-2012, 01:51 PM
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Somewhere outside of North America is a member reading the last two post scratching their head... You guys are terrible

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