How often do you change your oil? 10/40 vs 20/50, notice a shifting difference? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-06-2019, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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How often do you change your oil? 10/40 vs 20/50, notice a shifting difference?

I usually use 20/50 and just switched to Honda 10/40. I come to a stop and I think I'm in 1st, but I'm in 2nd. I have to rotate the gears and use the clutch because it won't go into first by just tapping it.

IDK if this is because of the oil or just me riding more and noticing it more.

Also, how often do you change your oil?

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post #2 of 18 Old 05-06-2019, 11:11 PM
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Always used 10W 40 on my bikes both here in Melbourne and back in the motherland (UK)...so hard for me to compare with anything else. I thought it was advised due to the air pressure/ temperature? And as I have moved to more average (from appalling) maintenance, I change the oil every 6 months, oil and filter every 12. Ride daily for the year through all seasons. Yet I am actually moving towards changing the oil with the filter just annually now. A fair few seem to do this, perhaps because the semi and full synth lasts longer before breaking down to muck?

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post #3 of 18 Old 05-06-2019, 11:52 PM
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I change oil and filter every winter regardless of mileage. It's no great cost.
I use Penrite full synthetic 10W-40 and Hiflo oil filters.

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post #4 of 18 Old 05-07-2019, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ever notice a difference in shifting after a fresh oil change?

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post #5 of 18 Old 05-07-2019, 02:04 AM
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Yep, definitely. That's usually how I judge when to change the oil, when the downshifts clonk rather than snicking.
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post #6 of 18 Old 05-07-2019, 02:08 AM
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Don't really notice a difference. Don't notice a deterioration of gear selection over the period between oil changes either. I did some quick arithmetic and conversiony type stuff and came up with my mileage between changes, 3000 miles.

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post #7 of 18 Old 05-07-2019, 04:54 AM
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Every 4000 miles with Honda GN4 10W40. Don't notice any change in shifting. When bike is warm, shift from neutral to 1st is always accompanied by a mighty "thonk." It's been like that for the 15,000 miles I've had the machine.

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post #8 of 18 Old 05-07-2019, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Ever notice a difference in shifting after a fresh oil change?
I have found that it depends on the particular oil and how long it was in use.
I have found different oils of the same viscosity, behave differently when hot in the gearbox, especially after some thousands of kms are on the oil.

Basically, what it boils down to is how sensitive the oil is to shear, and the gearbox is very heavy on shearing the oil.
So, I look at the HTHS viscosity ratings to give me some insight in that regard.

One thing is for sure, I find the (still JASO marked!) 5W40 T6 Shell is excellent in terms of how it performs in the bike.
I change it once a season, fresh in before the winter sleep.
I don't do many kms a season, and the last few have been dismal in that respect.
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post #9 of 18 Old 05-08-2019, 05:40 AM
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I’ve settled on 8,000 miles for now on my new bike.
Currently at about 7k (6 months of riding) and runs/shifts as smooth as ever.

Manufacturer recommended interval is 9300 miles.
Countless debates on the motorcycle brand specific forum.
Do the engineers know best? Are they compromised by the marketers/executives to make the bike more marketable?
Some people run all 9300, some do half intervals.
Riding style/temps affect, and one would think they set the interval conservatively for fairly hard street riding (racing/track days would shorten it).
There are people on the forum who run 9300 and have sent a sample in for testing, and it appears to still be fine.

The recommendation is with their specific oil and filter/screen kit. Which I use since the bike is under warranty. Close to $150 a change (doing it yourself) which is why I decided on 8000, instead of half the recommended interval.

I use Mobil 1 annual protection (and Mobile 1 extended life filters) in my autos (15k protection previously, before they came out with the annual stuff) and run them to 12k miles.

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post #10 of 18 Old 05-08-2019, 12:39 PM
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$150usd is expensive for an oil/oil filter change. On my 919 I'm only spending a bit over $50usd per change.

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post #11 of 18 Old 05-08-2019, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
$150usd is expensive for an oil/oil filter change. On my 919 I'm only spending a bit over $50usd per change.
Looking around, it looks like it can be done for $115. Buying from amazon instead of from KTM, the dealership, or the prominent motorcycle websites. Guess I’ll save a few bucks going forward.

I’ve only done the 600 mile change so far. Have my next one coming up in about 1000 miles.

Some people only change the metal screens every other time to save money. Just the filter alone is cheaper than the kit.

I’m not going to risk using a different oil while under warranty and potentially void the warranty.
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post #12 of 18 Old 05-08-2019, 02:40 PM
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That kit isn't cheap eh!
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post #13 of 18 Old 05-08-2019, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, I paid $26 for my last oil change.

I see some are using synthetic, I thought that was bad for the clutch. I know the friction reducers are bad for the clutch, but I though synthetic was a no-no as well.

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post #14 of 18 Old 05-09-2019, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Wow, I paid $26 for my last oil change.

I see some are using synthetic, I thought that was bad for the clutch. I know the friction reducers are bad for the clutch, but I though synthetic was a no-no as well.
There are tons of fully synthetic motorcycle oils that are made for use with wet clutches.
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post #15 of 18 Old 05-09-2019, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
That kit isn't cheap eh!
$75 from the dealer.
They gotta get your money, one way or the other.
At least they were kind enough to design it with a long interval between recommended changes.

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post #16 of 18 Old 05-09-2019, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Wow, I paid $26 for my last oil change.

I see some are using synthetic, I thought that was bad for the clutch. I know the friction reducers are bad for the clutch, but I though synthetic was a no-no as well.
This is what I used in my 919 when I owned it.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-1...SABEgK2__D_BwE

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post #17 of 18 Old 05-09-2019, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC1978 View Post
This is what I used in my 919 when I owned it.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-1...SABEgK2__D_BwE
The word "synthetic" in simple association with "oil", is meaningless, and has been for many years.
IF the oil is an API defined Group IV, then it's for sure a synthetic by virtue of it being a polyalphaolefin, aka "PAO".
If the oil is an API defined Group V basket of everything other than Groups I, II, III, & IV, it's still no guarantee, as for example, castor bean plant seed oil is a Group V by virtue on it not being a I, II, III or IV.
Many Group III oils are called "synthetic", yet they are all mineral oils, and remain as mineral oils, although are highly processed and have higher Viscosity Index (VI) numbers.
(Both Germany and Japan exclude the use of the term "synthetic" for Group III oils, and I think that stemmed from the somewhat famous Castrol vs. Mobil lawsuit of years ago.)

The reality is, that the majority, and likely the vast majority, of engine oils badged as being synthetic, have not been synthesized at all, and instead are highly processed mineral oils. That's not to say they are no good, but they sure aren't "synthetic".

I have not checked, but I think the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is a Group III, and therefore not synthetic as it hasn't been synthesized.
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post #18 of 18 Old 05-12-2019, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
$150usd is expensive for an oil/oil filter change. On my 919 I'm only spending a bit over $50usd per change.
Agreed that $150 is crazy. My last change I spent $16 on the filter, and $24 on Honda GN4 Oil, total of $40. I had to do a 500 mile oil change due to fuel getting in the oil sump from a bad FPR.

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