how many turns of adjustment on a 9er? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 62 Old 02-02-2012, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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how many turns of adjustment on a 9er?

So, I screwed up a wee bit with the fork upgrades. Can anyone tell me how many turns of adjustment they get on the rebound? Left side I get 1 turn, other side I get more than 4 turns.

If you are going to go check on your bike, be sure you count the number of turns to return it to its original setting

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post #2 of 62 Old 02-02-2012, 01:16 PM
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4 sounds about right, don't have 919 forks anymore but 4 turns fully open is more that enough for the needle to clear the path. Also all rebound adjustments are made from fully closed.
You figured out how to fix your problem, right? It's an easy fix.

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post #3 of 62 Old 02-02-2012, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
So, I screwed up a wee bit with the fork upgrades. Can anyone tell me how many turns of adjustment they get on the rebound? Left side I get 1 turn, other side I get more than 4 turns.

If you are going to go check on your bike, be sure you count the number of turns to return it to its original setting
1 is not enough.
4 is excessive.
3 is a good number, a bit more or a bit less is OK.
You'll never ride it with more than 2 turns out from full hard.
It should be in the 1-3/8 to 1-3/4 zone, and 1-3/8 is the ragged edge of Firm with 0.925 springs and 14 mm of internal preload. Softer and/or less preload will impact the ideal setting, but the change in setting could be very minute, if even detectable, within the band of spring rates and internal preloads that any 919 is going to have in it.
Forgot to add in, the 1-3/8 above is in terms of RaceTech US1 oil which is a light 2.5/5 W oil. The use of 10W as needed for stock cartridge valves and shims, will mean a bit more needle opening will be needed to get the same rate of bleed during low speed rebound. If using 10W oil, make any changes from 2 turns initial in 1/8th increments.

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post #4 of 62 Old 02-02-2012, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
4 sounds about right, don't have 919 forks anymore but 4 turns fully open is more that enough for the needle to clear the path. Also all rebound adjustments are made from fully closed.
You figured out how to fix your problem, right? It's an easy fix.
Yeah, I just wanted to know if I needed to go into both forks, or just one...I'll have to mess with it when I get home and see if "the other" ever bottoms out...I really didn't want to get back into them but ehh...whatever!

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post #5 of 62 Old 02-02-2012, 03:02 PM
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it's simple, no need to remove them from the triple. Just remove front wheel, take top caps/preload/rebound assemblies off and yes, both of them. Make sure they both match to each other before installing (preload full out and rebound needle full open (out). Make sure damper rod nut is set at the same distance on both forks measured from the top of the rod threads to the nut. Once you verified it's the same put cap/rebound needle assembly on and tighten it by hand until it hits the nut (without moving the nut of of position). Once there, snug it with 2 wrenches against each other. All done.

I also like to match position of everything on both forks: Once you bolt caps back on (with preload and rebound still beeing all out), you will notice that preload head and rebound marks are located at different angles from each other.
Let's say your left fork has preload head at 2 o'clock position. Loosen right triple and rotate fork tube until right preload head at 2 o'clock as well.
It's not necessary but I'm weird that way.

BTW, did you have rebound all the way out during assembly or preload adjustment? If no, inspect your rebound needle and the o-ring(where rebound adjuster inserted into preload adjuster) for any damage.

Alway have your rebound fully open when doing preload and make sure you don't force it in or out. Once sag is set, dial in the rebound where you like it the best. Starting point usually 1-3/4 turns out of fully closed (out of fully turned in).

have fun

PS. use wire or something to keep damper rods from falling back into forks until you put caps back on

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post #6 of 62 Old 02-02-2012, 06:34 PM
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zaq nailed it. yes do both forks at the same time. you must set them so they're at the same settings.

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post #7 of 62 Old 02-24-2012, 11:51 AM
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This is going to be, [keep it to yourself, say nothing to no one] when I found out, someone was making some crazy moves I never thought about. The conventional wisdom is to match fork clicks. But I've witnessed how they use two spring tensions to come up with one number. It gets worse.

Here is the one part. Look up fork springs. You can buy about 3 sets. They come in increments. Say you want a certain setup. One spring is for argument sake, a 9.0. There is the other spring rate that dials in at 8.5. If you average them out, yes, you can see they can match 2 springs for 1. Say the other spring is a 10.0. You now take the 8.5, combo the one fork assembly with a 10.0 spring, the other with an 8.5. Math says a 9.25 spring rate. That is one combo being used as if some did not already know. Well, I didn't even think about it like that, nor the engine tune. But that is a different story.

Back to the 2 forks being as 1 assembly. What say you want to run a rebound only on one fork, compression on the other? You zero out both opposites, meaning? Then, you work your way up the clicks that way... Once sag is found.

What the theory means, you use the rebound on one fork till you are no longer satisfied with so much rebound you need more. Then, click in the other side that was positioned at zero clicks out [all the way]. Sound like it would work as one fork, you think that out?

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post #8 of 62 Old 02-24-2012, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dev View Post
This is going to be, [keep it to yourself, say nothing to no one] when I found out, someone was making some crazy moves I never thought about. The conventional wisdom is to match fork clicks. But I've witnessed how they use two spring tensions to come up with one number. It gets worse.

Here is the one part. Look up fork springs. You can buy about 3 sets. They come in increments. Say you want a certain setup. One spring is for argument sake, a 9.0. There is the other spring rate that dials in at 8.5. If you average them out, yes, you can see they can match 2 springs for 1. Say the other spring is a 10.0. You now take the 8.5, combo the one fork assembly with a 10.0 spring, the other with an 8.5. Math says a 9.25 spring rate. That is one combo being used as if some did not already know. Well, I didn't even think about it like that, nor the engine tune. But that is a different story.

Back to the 2 forks being as 1 assembly. What say you want to run a rebound only on one fork, compression on the other? You zero out both opposites, meaning? Then, you work your way up the clicks that way... Once sag is found.

What the theory means, you use the rebound on one fork till you are no longer satisfied with so much rebound you need more. Then, click in the other side that was positioned at zero clicks out [all the way]. Sound like it would work as one fork, you think that out?
In a word, no.
Split fork spring ratings to get an in between rating have absolutely zero effect in terms of needing different settings for each leg.
The same holds true for a pair of springs that are rated the same, but have some variance between them.
The two fork springs are seen as a single combined spring by the damping adjustments, by virtue of the fact that the axle ties them together as a unit.
Mute evidence of this is things like Traxxion's cartridge kit for the 919 that puts the low speed compression adjuster on one leg, and the low speed rebound adjuster on the other.

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post #9 of 62 Old 02-24-2012, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
In a word, no.
Split fork spring ratings to get an in between rating have absolutely zero effect in terms of needing different settings for each leg.
The same holds true for a pair of springs that are rated the same, but have some variance between them.
Well, I have two guy discussing different springs to use in each fork. I have that on video at a road racing event. This sort of disputes your, 'absolutely zero effect." Care to explain why these guys use this combo and know that the fork assembly ties in the 3 axis as one unit? You might be contradicting the theory? It is one or the other, no? Unless you repeated what I tried to explained initially?


Quote:
The two fork springs are seen as a single combined spring by the damping adjustments, by virtue of the fact that the axle ties them together as a unit.
The spring is how fast the fork moves with the spring's rate. This is the tie in. The dampening adjustments have zip to do with springing or pogo sticking. All the compression and rebound control is; to de-pogo the one complete springing unit.

Quote:
Mute evidence of this is things like Traxxion's cartridge kit for the 919 that puts the low speed compression adjuster on one leg, and the low speed rebound adjuster on the other.
Understood. I sort of thought out of the box the same way? Yes? No? Made more a, sneak up on the dials in a more subtle way? Mimic the traxx cartridge? Yes? No? I now use both forks comp/reb as a tie-in. Do I really need to match my comp numbers or one number in other words. I test and test until I cry uncle, I need to cash in on a finer fork tune. The spring combo was not enough. But a huge change none the less. You step up to quality springs, not sardine can kind of OEM springs.



Even though the chart reads a weight of some rider combo, this has nothing to do with weight and rider. This is more a combo of staying on the bike and aiming for tire preservation (tuning). If you pogo [daylight under the wheel on throttle lift] this says, you need work with the springs [to stay on the ground]. And to get there, you work the alternate spring combos. This has everything to do with front end feel and tire readings.

Therefore, first find the spring [comb] stiff enough to stay put. The fine tuning that comes next is the damp/rebound the pogo out of it. Yes? No?

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post #10 of 62 Old 02-25-2012, 07:27 AM
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I have split spring ratings to get the overall installed spring rate I settled upon.
It's the only solution to get in between ratings in terms of what is available.
Regardless, one uses the same rebound and compression settings in both forks, because they react to total spring rate as referenced to the front wheel axle.
Further spring rate tuning is by oil level, which is really air springing that is in addition to the coil springs.
Spring rate selections are much more nuanced than any simple chart or table, that is for sure.
Correct springing is the number one setup element.
#2 is chassis ride height.
#3 is damping settings.
Compression damping deals with wheel bump or chassis induced energy inputs.
Rebound damping deals with managing the release of stored energy held by the springs as a result of wheel travel.
The damper stack builds and adjuster settings relate to a number of things, spring rate included.

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post #11 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 02:43 PM
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One question: as per FSM, does it make sense to leave the rebound/preload adjuster intact on the damper rod and remove the fork cap from the assembly so the adjustment of the rebound needle is not changed? I do have replacement O rings just in case... Getting ready to change springs and valves tomorrow. And if so, I assume the replacement of the fork cap onto the assembly would be as simple as alignment to the preload adjustment marks, correct?

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post #12 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
One question: as per FSM, does it make sense to leave the rebound/preload adjuster intact on the damper rod and remove the fork cap from the assembly so the adjustment of the rebound needle is not changed? I do have replacement O rings just in case... Getting ready to change springs and valves tomorrow. And if so, I assume the replacement of the fork cap onto the assembly would be as simple as alignment to the preload adjustment marks, correct?
I'll post guaranteed easy can't screw up steps later tonight.

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post #13 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 03:21 PM
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I think I read it's advisable to break free the damper asm. bolts before I remove the forks from the tripples? Is that correct?

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post #14 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 03:27 PM
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Mromo, RMB,

I've got springs on the way from ebay. Y'all better document this so this idiot can do it blindfolded, lol....

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post #15 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 03:31 PM
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I'd read the manual. Some, not all, not most, but guys will screw out things on the fork assembly that were permanent. They just looked pretty, like you could take a socket to it. The book does not guess. The net does.

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post #16 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
I think I read it's advisable to break free the damper asm. bolts before I remove the forks from the tripples? Is that correct?
Yes.

Back your rebound adjuster all the way out, if it gets hung up during disassembly/assembly you may be in for ordering a replacement. While the FSM does not say to disassemble the entire fork racetech does (for cleaning) If you are just doing springs (e.g. not valves) then I wouldn't dive in there unless you have to.

The order I would attack disassembly is, get the wheel/axle out of the way, break the hex bolt at the bottom of the fork loose, break the top caps loose, continue disassembly as per the FSM.

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post #17 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
Yes.

Back your rebound adjuster all the way out, if it gets hung up during disassembly/assembly you may be in for ordering a replacement. While the FSM does not say to disassemble the entire fork racetech does (for cleaning) If you are just doing springs (e.g. not valves) then I wouldn't dive in there unless you have to.

The order I would attack disassembly is, get the wheel/axle out of the way, break the hex bolt at the bottom of the fork loose, break the top caps loose, continue disassembly as per the FSM.
Rebound and preload adjusters are backed out all the way and wheel is removed. As for the caps, did you remove the caps with the rebound adjuster intact or did you remove the cap from the damper asm. as per the manual.

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post #18 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 04:50 PM
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I don't do the full rebound screw back out method.
I do the opposite.
Gently seat closed.
Then back off 1/2 turn.
Then break free the jam nut.
Take out cap with damping adjusting rod mounted to cap.
Turn adjuster back in the 1/2 turn.

For reassembly.
Very lightly run the cap down on the cartridge tube.
As soon as you feel it touch, stop.
Back out adjuster 1/2 turn.
Then nip up the jam nut.
Then lightly seat the adjuster closed.
Then back out exactly the same number of turns out it was before you started.

You can not damage the needles or seats this way.

You have backed the adjusters out all the way ?
Turn them in 3 turns.
Proceed to my reassembly method, and all will be fine.


SPACER LENGTH
Do your determination with the ride height adjuster fully backed out, not mid point.
Not remembering your particulars, do not exceed 20 mm of internal preload and I'd be using 15 if your selected spring rate is close to what a typical table would call up. I'm running 925s with 14 mm internal preload and am changing to 950s with 10 mm, 170 # before gear.

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post #19 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
I don't do the full rebound screw back out method.
I do the opposite.
Gently seat closed.
Then back off 1/2 turn.
Then break free the jam nut.
Take out cap with damping adjusting rod mounted to cap.
Turn adjuster back in the 1/2 turn.

For reassembly.
Very lightly run the cap down on the cartridge tube.
As soon as you feel it touch, stop.
Back out adjuster 1/2 turn.
Then nip up the jam nut.
Then lightly seat the adjuster closed.
Then back out exactly the same number of turns out it was before you started.

You can not damage the needles or seats this way.

You have backed the adjusters out all the way ?
Turn them in 3 turns.
Proceed to my reassembly method, and all will be fine.


SPACER LENGTH
Do your determination with the ride height adjuster fully backed out, not mid point.
Not remembering your particulars, do not exceed 20 mm of internal preload and I'd be using 15 if your selected spring rate is close to what a typical table would call up. I'm running 925s with 14 mm and am changing to 950s with 10 mm, 170 # before gear.
Your method does make sense. That said, why do it that way instead of removing the cap from the damper assembly, leaving the rebound needle assembly intact and simply aligning the preload adjustment rings upon reassembly? I'm not busting balls at all, just running through possible choices. Please share your thoughts. P.S.- I do have replacement O rings for the damper asm.

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post #20 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Your method does make sense. That said, why do it that way instead of removing the cap from the damper assembly, leaving the rebound needle assembly intact and simply aligning the preload adjustment rings upon reassembly? I'm not busting balls at all, just running through possible choices. Please share your thoughts. P.S.- I do have replacement O rings for the damper asm.
I can't give you the full time needed right now, some family stuff just boiled up.
The method I use is the easiest, fastest, and won't wreck stuff.

Back out ride height adjuster fully.
Close down adjuster screw lightly.
back off 1/2 turn
Remove fork caps.
Crack the lock nut.
Spin back the cap and draw out with rebound adjuster rod attached (needle ended rod)
You can still easily do your spacer length determination.

There's other ways I suppose, but all take longer and have greater risk.

I can ponder more later, sorry, can't right now.
Gotta run.

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post #21 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
One question: as per FSM, does it make sense to leave the rebound/preload adjuster intact on the damper rod and remove the fork cap from the assembly so the adjustment of the rebound needle is not changed? I do have replacement O rings just in case... Getting ready to change springs and valves tomorrow. And if so, I assume the replacement of the fork cap onto the assembly would be as simple as alignment to the preload adjustment marks, correct?
I didn't read all answers, sorry if I'm repeating something already said.

It doesn't really matter : you can leave needle in or you can take it out for o-ring replacement, it doesn't change anything as it's not how your adjustment of rebound/number of turn will be set. JUST MAKE SURE TO OPEN REBOUND ALL THE WAY BEFORE YOU ToUCH ANYTHING AS NOT TO DAMAGE THE NEEDLE. ESPECIALLY BEFORE REASSEMBLY. MAKE SURE REBOUND IS ALL THE WAY OPEN (ADJUSTER IS ALL THE WAY UP IN THE FORK CAP).

Going back to rebound adjustment. The number of needle turns will be set by how much you will screw the cap on the damper rod/tube against the jam nut. If you screw the cap way down - less turns; closer to the top - more turns. Basically the higher the cap is on the damper rod, the more turns/travel rebound needle will have to cover in order to close valve assembly. Just make sure that cap is set to the same amount of turns down on the damper rod for both forks. This way you will avoid OP's problem.
The way I do it: take your caliper and back down jam nut to exactly the same distance from the top of damper rod for both forks. Then without turning this nut, screw your caps with needles in until snug against the jam nut. Give it a little final snug with wrenches. By snug I mean cap against the jam nut snug, not rebound needle to the valve snug, lol. Remember I said to keep it fully open?

Don't worry if you have only 5 turns of rebound now and will have 10 later (no, you won't have 10 lol). It doesn't matter as you adjust rebound from fully closed. Fully closed is your ground zero. At about 3-4 turns out of fully closed your rebound is completely open anyway. So it doesn't matter if it's 4 turns or 24 turns.
Does it make any sense?
It's much easier than you think it is. Just dig in already . Post any question as you go. Once you open them up, it all will become very clear.

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post #22 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 06:25 PM
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OK, I understand the adjustment. I have a BIG question: I just broke one of the damper tubes on my practice set, the nut was not peened, it must have had locktite. How do I avoid this on my tubes when I replace the valves? Do I ned to grind the nut? How far?
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post #23 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
OK, I understand the adjustment. I have a BIG question: I just broke one of the damper tubes on my practice set, the nut was not peened, it must have had locktite. How do I avoid this on my tubes when I replace the valves? Do I ned to grind the nut? How far?
are you talking about loctite under the jam nut? There should be no loctite, ever. The only place for loctite in your forks is a little on valve bolts.

Post a pic

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post #24 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
I don't do the full rebound screw back out method.
I do the opposite.
Gently seat closed.
Then back off 1/2 turn.
Then break free the jam nut.
Take out cap with damping adjusting rod mounted to cap.
Turn adjuster back in the 1/2 turn.

For reassembly.
Very lightly run the cap down on the cartridge tube.
As soon as you feel it touch, stop.
Back out adjuster 1/2 turn.
Then nip up the jam nut.
Then lightly seat the adjuster closed.
Then back out exactly the same number of turns out it was before you started.

You can not damage the needles or seats this way.
too much in/out/in/out for me. Why? I just back all this shit out and work on that thing knowing that nothing will get damaged. No playing around, no time wasted.

Build the fork and then adjust everything as needed.

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post #25 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:00 PM
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Pic on post 22...

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post #26 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:08 PM
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just to clarify a few things:

obviously dot take me literally with 10 turns, use common sense.

Take everything apart, assemble you valves, put cartridge back together,
back jam nut down so you can put you cap with rebound needle back on, turn rebound in until it closes the valve assembly, if it doesn't, open it back up a little and gently screw cap a little further down the rod until it does. Open it and see how many turns you got out of fully closed. You can play with your forks now, before you take them apart and see how many turn exactly you got now should you want to match it.
Once it looks good, bring the jam nut up against the cap and put some masking tape on the jam nut and rod to prevent the jam nut from moving. Remove the cap and measure the distance from the jam nut to the top of the rod tube, record it as that's what you will set it for the other fork.

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post #27 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Pic on post 22...

THAT JAM NUT!!
YES, loctite goes there once you assemble it but not from the factory and that's not why you broke it. That part is mushroomed a little from the factory to prevent nut from backing out hence you will use loctite on the reassembly.
You will need to file that mushroomed part a little before trying to break the nut open. DO NOT ATTEMPT IT WITHOUT DOING SO.

I'll post pic in a sec

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post #28 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:25 PM
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sorry for crappy pic but you get the idea. File it all the way down to the nut before attempting to remove it. Don't worry about filing/scratching the nut a little if you do. Also clean up and deburr the hole before you reassemble

Attachment 19439

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post #29 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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OK, I get it, I thought the nut was peened, the shaft is flared...

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post #30 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:36 PM
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Does everyone have cabin fever or something?

Everyone talking about needles, mushrooms, dampers, filing and shit....

What the hell happened to the simple "is the pc3 cold start fixed" banter... :-)

Kidding, I only look at this as another thing I will need to learn.
Carry on folks...

I may not have a lot to say but it doesn't mean I don't listen.
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post #31 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
OK, I get it, I thought the nut was peened, the shaft is flared...
hahaha, yea, nut is pinned by the flared shaft, lol

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post #32 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 07:55 PM
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Red locktite when I reassemble the valves right?

Edit, looks like blue, medium is required.

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post #33 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Red locktite when I reassemble the valves right?


yes, red and 30 inch-pounds. Make sure your check valve on the valve is free, properly seated and not pinched.

PS. lol, I can't keep up with your edits, just post new post. Use red, you don't want it to come apart.

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post #34 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 08:17 PM
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Measure oil with ot without spring? I thought I had read here to measure with spring but Ohlins valve install book says measure w/o spring. I was told 140m.

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post #35 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Measure oil with ot without spring? I thought I had read here to measure with spring but Ohlins valve install book says measure w/o spring. I was told 140m.
without spring. 140mm sounds very low. Who told you? Dan Kyle? If so, do what he said.
You can always add a little later, 2-3 mm at the time. The volume of cc's can be approximated to mm of oil height by mm=cc/(Pi*r^2) when r is the radius of the inside of the fork tube.

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post #36 of 62 Old 03-01-2012, 08:34 PM
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LDH gave me the 140 measurement, I'll start with that and go from there, hopefully it's fine.

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post #37 of 62 Old 03-02-2012, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
LDH gave me the 140 measurement, I'll start with that and go from there, hopefully it's fine.
go with 140mm and adjust it as needed.
Remember, oil height is final adjustment or fine tuning for your front suspension.
You want to ensure your bike using most of its available suspension travel without bottoming out. Put a zip tie on your fork tube, finds some bumps in the road and try braking very hard over those bumps. Be careful. Nothing special about bump size, regular size bumps that you will encounter on most of your street rides. Add oil to prevent bottoming, remove oil for more travel.
Don't expect miracles as there is no comp. adjustment on the 9er

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post #38 of 62 Old 03-02-2012, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
yes, red and 30 inch-pounds. Make sure your check valve on the valve is free, properly seated and not pinched.

PS. lol, I can't keep up with your edits, just post new post. Use red, you don't want it to come apart.
Loctite # 271

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post #39 of 62 Old 03-02-2012, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
go with 140mm and adjust it as needed.
Remember, oil height is final adjustment or fine tuning for your front suspension.
You want to ensure your bike using most of its available suspension travel without bottoming out. Put a zip tie on your fork tube, finds some bumps in the road and try braking very hard over those bumps. Be careful. Nothing special about bump size, regular size bumps that you will encounter on most of your street rides. Add oil to prevent bottoming, remove oil for more travel.
Don't expect miracles as there is no comp. adjustment on the 9er
Put zip tie on while doing the work.
Slowly and fully bottom out the unit, going through the hydraulic cushion zone to hard mechanical bottom out.
Slide down zip tie to fork seal.
Do a wrap of tape immediately above the zip tie.
This is the ONLY way to know for sure where your travel is in relation to hard mechanical bottom out.
You do not want to be less than 5 mm away from that, and 10 is better.

140 oil level is a good place to start, it sounds to be the typical set point for the suppliers, RaceTech uses that, as well as D K, so you can be very confident of the number.
If you get brake dive beyond the amount you want to see, simply go to either 130 or 125 and be done with it. Do not go less than 125.

zaq is right (as usual) do the oil level with spring out.
Be sure to slowly stroke many many times to get the air out of the system before setting oil level.

When you button up your front end, don't forget to do the left fork leg float on the axle once the axle has been loaded up on the wheel bearings.
If you want a written sequence, just say the word.

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post #40 of 62 Old 03-02-2012, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post

If you want a written sequence, just say the word.
Since you offered... It couldn't hurt, I have the process in my head, getting ready to start. Thank you.

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