Sounds like your bolt has some kind of damage on the head and its hard to judge by the photo you included but it does look like there is a little twist on the bolt head (meaning someone has been overtightening it). If that is the case I am surprised your problem isn't more along the lines of "can't get it to tighten and stop leaking" but maybe you just got lucky and dodged a bullet on stripping the oil plug.
One option may be trying to use an open ended wrench and lightly tapping it on with a series of soft taps from a smallish hammer from an open direction. A better wrench will offer a better fit but a cheap wrench might allow the amount of expansion needed to get it to slip over the irregular shape of the bolt head.
This might be an odd recommendation but these kind of fall into the category of last ditch efforts. You can perhaps try and use a standard socket that is slightly larger sized. If the bolt is 12MM like I think I recall (sorry if I am a bit rusty on my Hornet info then I'd look at maybe using a 1/2 12 point or 9/16 inch 6 point socket. Obviously the tighter the better and it might be a socket you kind of toss afterwards if it gets boogered up getting it off.
Once you get it loose make sure you have a new drain bolt and crush washer because that one is done.
I don't want to preach, and certainly don't want to hurt your feelings (or those those of others) but if anyone suggests you don't need a torque wrench then they're mostly mistaken (again sorry fellas). It costs 22 bucks at Harbor Freight to get a 3/8 torque wrench. That's 22 bucks of insurance to safegaurd not stripping out something that costs much more to replace. A new oil pan, drain plug, and crush washer comes out to 125 bucks not counting shipping, gaskets, and your time. If you strip out the oil pan threads then that is what you'll need to replace, not to mention pulling the exhaust off, and the associated gaskets you'll need for that.
People say they can tell by feel and I admit this openly guys, I used to be one of those people. Probably 99% of them are mistaken and even the ones who get close will never be able to tell you the difference between 22 and 25 ft pounds. That might be the difference between a well clamped oil drain plug and a stripped out oil pan when you are dealing with aluminum.
Not trying to flame anyone, but I've been wrenching on stuff for 30+ years and I used to think I really had a feel for tightening stuff and I stopped using torque wrenches a long time ago. So one weekend I and a group of friends were having a weekend campout/meetup and we were all sitting around having a few drinks, wrenching on everyones garbage and someone brought up the idea of using a torque wrench and we all laughed it off and were all of the same opinion that we knew WTF we were doing. The one guy in our group that wrenches full time laid down the challenge. It cost 20 bucks to enter and I am telling you he made out like a bandit because every single one of use were overtightening the fasteners on everything we were turning wrenches on. He made easy money that day because there were about a dozen of us that got in on it. Needless to say I broke down and picked up a set of torque wrenches when I got home and I was astonished at how much I had been over-tightening fasteners with my "calibrated hand". I went through the garage looking up specs for everything and testing myself and it just took far less effort than I had been putting into them.
OK, sorry everyone, I'm down off the soap box just wanted to point out that when you see obvious signs of someone having overtightened fasteners they need a torque wrench, lol.
FWIW, you can probably get by safely with 17 to 20 lb ft with a new crush washer. You just want it to be tight enough to be secured and not leak, maybe a tad bit more if you are reusing the washer a few times.
Hope that might help a little and sorry for the sermon.