Help with 919 no power - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Help with 919 no power

Hey,

I was sick for a year and and a half and my bike sat. Battery was on a trender one day I tripped on the wire and the trender won't stay tending on the battery so I left it off. I later in the year went to start the bike and the battery was dead big surprise. Being sick I had to leave the bike to sit. I just purchased a new battery today and installed the battery and I have no power at all. Checked the 30 amp fuse and its fine the bike is dead. The 2004 919 only has 2400 miles on it, I'm not much of a mechanic and I have exhausted my knowledge of what could be wrong so I'm looking for some possible help or solutions that I could check before calling in a pro since my funds are very limited from my time lost from work due to my illness. Thanks in advance for any help you guys could give me. Joe

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post #2 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 03:47 PM
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Is it possible that when you tripped on the wire you yanked hard enough to jerk a wire loose on the bike? That's where I would look first. I'm sure it's something very simple.


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post #3 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 04:11 PM
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Yeah I'm with TheScientist on this one. Really check all connections. Check for corrosion and loose fitting. Check starter relay connections (battery and motor). Check the common ground under tank (bolt into frame). Check kill switch contacts on handlebar. There is a thread on cleaning this somewhere. Also make sure it's ON. Maybe give the ignition switch some attention. Jiggle key, WD40. Goodluck mate and keep us posted.

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post #4 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 04:19 PM
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This may seem obvious, but motorcycle battery are usually stored without the acid until they are used. You add the acid, then charge the battery for an amount of time. Do you know the battery has a full charge?

If you have jumper cables (and you should), you can jump from a known good car battery. In addition, if you find that you don't have power while jumping, you can use a simple test light to see where power is getting. Are you getting power to the fuses, etc...

Understand that the battery could have 12v and not have the amps to do anything, that's the reason for a known good jump.

BTW, if you don't have jumper cables, you can make a set that work for you bike by using the size wire used on your battery or the starter. They aren't that thick and you can carry them with you so you can get a jump from another bike/car if needed (or just buy a small jump box).

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post #5 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 05:54 PM
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Double check the fuse with a multimeter, it's possible it's bad but looks good to the naked eye. After that, check your connections. The new battery should be charged but should have enough juice to turn the engine over.

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post #6 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies believe it or not some of your suggestions are over my mechanical abilities. I didn't pull that hard on the cable when I tripped just pulled one alligator clip off. The battery is at 11.89 volts when I turn the ignition key I get nothing that's what made me think it was the fuse I thought of some corrosion on the terminals but the bike is garage kept I will get a new fuse and perhaps start there or does the battery need a little charge? Do you guys think


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post #7 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 07:51 PM
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Can you download the workshop manual. It shows the electrical layout quite well. Lots of pics.

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post #8 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just_smith View Post
Thanks for all the replies believe it or not some of your suggestions are over my mechanical abilities. I didn't pull that hard on the cable when I tripped just pulled one alligator clip off. The battery is at 11.89 volts when I turn the ignition key I get nothing that's what made me think it was the fuse I thought of some corrosion on the terminals but the bike is garage kept I will get a new fuse and perhaps start there or does the battery need a little charge? Do you guys think


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IIRC, 12.6 is a full charge... Sounds like you have a dead battery. I'd remove it and do a full charge at a slow rate. Keep in mind that even if you can jump it and get it running, not all charging systems can bring a battery back to 100%, so if it's that dead, you should do a full disconnected charge at a low amp.

You can get a low amp charger for about $5 at Harbor Freight. Should take about 1 day, then you should be able to remove the surface charge (run a light for a few min) then have 12.6~12.8 or whatever it is.

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post #9 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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IIRC, 12.6 is a full charge... Sounds like you have a dead battery. I'd remove it and do a full charge at a slow rate. Keep in mind that even if you can jump it and get it running, not all charging systems can bring a battery back to 100%, so if it's that dead, you should do a full disconnected charge at a low amp.



You can get a low amp charger for about $5 at Harbor Freight. Should take about 1 day, then you should be able to remove the surface charge (run a light for a few min) then have 12.6~12.8 or whatever it is.


Wow so the battery I got wouldn't give me any kind of power to the bike not even an indication of power? The battery did look old and as if it was sitting around for a while. Just can't afford the 180 for a OEM battery right now and when I called for the OEM battery the local shop said let me know if you want it and I'll throw it on a charger for you. So I figured that battery was sitting around for a while also.


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post #10 of 25 Old 08-15-2017, 11:44 PM
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Wow so the battery I got wouldn't give me any kind of power to the bike not even an indication of power? The battery did look old and as if it was sitting around for a while. Just can't afford the 180 for a OEM battery right now and when I called for the OEM battery the local shop said let me know if you want it and I'll throw it on a charger for you. So I figured that battery was sitting around for a while also.


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I paid $60 for my last battery and it's been about 4 years now. I found others cheaper, but I was in a hurry at the time. I found some on Amazon for about $20 something, but usually I expect them to be about $40.

https://www.amazon.com/KMG-Maintenac.../dp/B00JH25I6S

They're shipped with the acid in a container, you have to add the acid, then charge at about 1~2 amps for about a day or so. You can then hook up a light and see if you can burn off the surface charge and see how it holds it's charge. Should hold > 12.5ish

There's no reason to not charge the one you have. Even if you don't have a charger, you can simply hook it up to your car overnight and then jump the bike and see how it holds up, but you really should have at least a small maint charger.

$180 for a battery?

There's other brands, but < $30 is common, external connector makes it easy.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ger-69955.html
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post #11 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 01:23 AM
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Surely even a half dead battery would give him some dash lights, maybe some clicks from the starter relay or fire up the fuel pump.

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post #12 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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I got it from an auto zone type parts store. A battery with a 11.8 would cause the bike to have nothing when I turn the ignition key? I mean I have no sign of power the bike is dead.


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post #13 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 05:15 AM
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Joe, since you asked this is how I see it. Resting voltage for a battery in good condition should be about 12.8, and it takes a while (1/2 hr.) to drop down to that after charging it. On charge it should reach 13.8 or so. Unfortunately, voltage is not a very good test of battery condition. It doesn't really tell the battery's ability to deliver enough starting current, but it is an indicator.
11.8 volts is getting down and 10.8 is a dead battery, 95% discharged.
I think 11.8 would still be enough to power something up maybe even a slow turn over. As long as your 'new' battery is ok. I still think it's a supply fault, you know fuse, bad connection. Stuff like that. You should also know I'm no expert. Maybe one of the older, wiser hands will chime in.
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post #14 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 05:25 AM
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If you get no response turning the key on you have a connection issue or a blown fuse.

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post #15 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 06:23 AM
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^ +1. Also double check that the cables are connected to the correct terminals on the battery. You should at least have cluster lights.

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post #16 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 06:55 AM
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Just thought I'd mention. My bike came with a spare 30 amp fuse. It's stuck in the starter relay there somewhere. Thanks Honda.

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post #17 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 07:09 AM
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I should clear my last comment up. See if Your bike has a spare 30amp fuse present. The main 30amp fuse and the spare are close to one another. Just make sure when your checking for a blown main fuse its not the spare your looking at. It's happened before.

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post #18 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 09:30 AM
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You should get lights when you turn to the on position, even at ~11 volts. However, there could be a min voltage where it shuts down, the headlight comes on when you turn the bike on so that might be enough of a draw to kill things.

The easy thing to do is to simply charge the battery, you should do this no matter what because using the bike as the charger isn't a good idea.

The best way to charge a battery is at the same rate it was discharged, so you'd still want some low amp battery charger. A good automatic charger isn't expensive and a good overnight charge should tell you how good the battery is.

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post #19 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 01:59 PM
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He would still get SOME indicator of voltage- via fuel pump prime, dash lights or running lights. I have personally started my bike with 10.2 volts at the battery. Im not saying "its not the battery", im saying something else seems to be the big issue here. Ignition switch or IGNITION RELAY will be my bet. Try swapping relays around under the seat. Could also be the battery terminal connections are corroded and making a bad connection resulting in no power to the PCM.

Just my .02

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post #20 of 25 Old 08-16-2017, 06:02 PM
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He would still get SOME indicator of voltage- via fuel pump prime, dash lights or running lights. I have personally started my bike with 10.2 volts at the battery. Im not saying "its not the battery", im saying something else seems to be the big issue here. Ignition switch or IGNITION RELAY will be my bet. Try swapping relays around under the seat. Could also be the battery terminal connections are corroded and making a bad connection resulting in no power to the PCM.

Just my .02
No doubt, but at this point this thread is near meaningless because we don't really know what's going on, on the other side. Debugging a problem thru a message board is like trying to play the flute while wearing mittens.

He needs to charge up the batter and/or jump the bike. He also needs a test light and/or volt meter. Need to start tracing things down. A few wires, test light, jumper cables and a charge battery could find the problem.

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post #21 of 25 Old 08-17-2017, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that was my thought I would at least get some sign of life from the bike as far as dash lighting up. Checked 30 amp fuse doesn't look blown but going to get battery charged and perhaps try and jump the bike. Also gonna clean the terminals and check the 30 amp. Amperage. I may just have to get professional help before I screw something major up. I just can't believe I turn the key and nothing not even a click


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post #22 of 25 Old 08-17-2017, 08:27 PM
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I suggest not spending money on professionals before you get the basics down. Like you said, first clean the terminals, trickle charge (slow charge) the battery or jump start if you can (never tried on this bike yet so idk if it's possible with regular jumper cables). Bring your fuse to an auto store like auto zone and they'll check it for you. Your kill switch IS in the run position right?


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post #23 of 25 Old 08-17-2017, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Oh man never thought of checking the kill switch, but the way my luck goes I doubt its that easy LOL. But that's going to be the first thing I check in the morning. I'll let you know if it's that easy even so then I have to remember how to get the battery back in the compartment I can't believe how little amount of room they give I am usually cursing by the time the battery is back in position. I have to have an open circuit on the bike though because I can't get more then a year on the battery and like I said I only use it locally so it has very low mileage.


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post #24 of 25 Old 08-18-2017, 01:09 AM
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Oh man never thought of checking the kill switch, but the way my luck goes I doubt its that easy LOL. But that's going to be the first thing I check in the morning. I'll let you know if it's that easy even so then I have to remember how to get the battery back in the compartment I can't believe how little amount of room they give I am usually cursing by the time the battery is back in position. I have to have an open circuit on the bike though because I can't get more then a year on the battery and like I said I only use it locally so it has very low mileage.


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I had the kill switch thing happen to me before. One bike was tricky, I had to 'work' the switch a bit because it was dirty inside.

Regular jumper cable do work, I had the dead battery in a parking lot before.

Before you get help, buy a $2 test light or just make one. I simple 12v light bulb and two wires is all you need. Attach the wires to the 12v light bulb and put it at ground and the fuse. Most parts places have them for cheap, solves a lot of problems.

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post #25 of 25 Old 08-20-2017, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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I suggest not spending money on professionals before you get the basics down. Like you said, first clean the terminals, trickle charge (slow charge) the battery or jump start if you can (never tried on this bike yet so idk if it's possible with regular jumper cables). Bring your fuse to an auto store like auto zone and they'll check it for you. Your kill switch IS in the run position right?


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I want to thank all you guys you were great I had the battery charged overnight but also figured out I was checking the wrong fuse. So it was the 30 amp fuse, the fuse I was checking was for an accessory the previous owner had installed. I still had to hook the bike up to the car and jump start it even after the battery was supposedly charged all night. I let the bike run, but gonna let the bike sit until Tuesday and see if it starts with the new battery I just put in if not gonna return this battery because apparently it's no good. Anyone gave any experience with a 12 cell dry cell I saw a guy hooking one up on you tube? He said I would only really need an 8 cell just curious. But a huge thanks man you saved me hundreds of dollars for a $4.00 fuse.


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