HELP! Fork seal replacement problem - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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HELP! Fork seal replacement problem

Howdy.

I'm halfway done replacing my fork seals, and have run into a problem.

Left fork is done, job went smooth, no problems.

Right fork is being a bear. the bottom allen bolt which holds the damping rod in place is loose...but wont come all the way out. it's just spinning the lower part of the damping rod.

this first came up when I tried to unscrew it after dismounting the fork from the triples. I went ahead and took the cap off and removed the springs so I could get a better look.

I cant seem to get the lower damping rod to stay still so I can unscrew this damn bolt! I've even tried shoving a half-round whittled dowel end inside to hold the dang thing in place...no go.

anyone have advice? I need it urgently!





.

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

"The Shadow"
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post #2 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 05:40 PM
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im pretty sure the bottom end of the rod is indexed, if you pull the semi loosened bolt out twords the end of the bottom of the fork while slowly turning it, it should fall into an indexed hole which will keep it in place while you loosen.

essentially you are gonna have to pull on the bolt and turn it at the same time.

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post #3 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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the bolt is recessed inside the axle-hole part of the lower fork. it's not loose enough for me to get any kind of grip...unless I JBweld the allen wrench into it!

I tried to re-tighten it after putting the fork back together...the damping rod can be heard spinning inside. I can't even re-tighten the darn thing!

As far as being indexed...it sure doesn't seem to be!

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

"The Shadow"
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 05:52 PM
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Put the spring back in and put the cap on and try to get the bolt out then.

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post #5 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 05:57 PM
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Like RMB says put the spring back in and cap it. The tension should hold the damper from turning.

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post #6 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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I just did that. The fork internals are all together now, and the bolt is just spinning and spinning and spinning.

It won't tighten up or loosen.

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

"The Shadow"
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 06:15 PM
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I have a set of '02 forks in the garage I will go take a look and see if there may be another way.

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post #8 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 06:34 PM
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Remove the cap,spacer and spring. Then pop out the upper tube. The upper section of the damper body is only 1" inside, below the surface of the lower fork tube. It has 6 holes that are .250" diameter around the top diameter of the damper. Just under the lip where the spring sits. You should be able to get an awl or screwdriver into one of these holes. Use that to lock it out and keep it from spinning. The material is thick and should hold up fine.

ForumRunner_20120914_223323.jpg

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post #9 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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I'll give that a shot in the morning... Thanks very much for pulling your fork apart, Helimech! I think I'm done for tonight, I'm tired & frustrated and ready for a couple adult beverages.

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

"The Shadow"
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post #10 of 19 Old 09-14-2012, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Shadow View Post
I'll give that a shot in the morning... Thanks very much for pulling your fork apart, Helimech! I think I'm done for tonight, I'm tired & frustrated and ready for a couple adult beverages.
good call.... usually at that point of mental mind set... nothing more gets accomplished in the positive direction haha!

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post #11 of 19 Old 09-15-2012, 06:02 AM
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The other thing that works great is to get a long allen key socket for it and hit it with an impact gun real quick

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post #12 of 19 Old 09-15-2012, 07:28 AM
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If you remain hooped, here is another thing to try.
Put the spring back in.
Pull on the fork leg against the top out spring.
All of this will maximize the internal friction and if your bolt is loose, something is very wrong if it won't easily back out or go forward.

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post #13 of 19 Old 09-15-2012, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the job's done, thanks to Mtnceguy and his mechanical wusdom... and his speedy pneumatic wrench!

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

"The Shadow"
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post #14 of 19 Old 11-12-2013, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
Remove the cap,spacer and spring. Then pop out the upper tube. The upper section of the damper body is only 1" inside, below the surface of the lower fork tube. It has 6 holes that are .250" diameter around the top diameter of the damper. Just under the lip where the spring sits. You should be able to get an awl or screwdriver into one of these holes. Use that to lock it out and keep it from spinning. The material is thick and should hold up fine.

Attachment 22269
In the middle of doing my seals and have run into the same problem. One leg came apart ok, the other leg has the bottom bolt spinning stubbornly with the damper. I tried reassembling the spring stack and top cap to no avail. If the top cap and the spring clip retainer are off there shouldn't be a reason why the upper and lowers shouldn't come apart even if the bottom bolt is still on there, right? the damper assembly should come off with the fork lowers as I see it. Maybe I'm just not yanking hard enough? I don't have easy access to a impact gun, so I wanna try to pull the upper and lower apart with the damper rod still attached to the lower forks so I have easier access to stop the damper spinning like described above…

That being said, how do you not run into the same problem when reassembling?

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post #15 of 19 Old 11-13-2013, 03:15 AM
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I may have been incorrect in my post above. The upper fork leg stanchion might have a ring inside that catches on the lip of the damper.

I no longer have any conventional fork parts to check, and I remember that the fork was all ready torn down and i mocked up the damper and lower leg for the pic above.

Check it out on the fork u have dissasembled. If the damper will pass all the way through the upper stanchion leg, then u should be able to remove it after separating the upper & lower. I have a feeling it does catch and the bolt needs to be removed.

You really need a impact gun it makes it super easy, even a cheap electric one from harbour freight will do the job. You could also add some extra washers or a longer spacer tube made from PVC pipe to put more tension on the spring & damper. Just be careful not to strip the top cap threads.

I apologize for the info in the original post, I believe I fucked up.

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post #16 of 19 Old 11-14-2013, 03:23 AM
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Pneumatic wrench is really the only way to go for this issue. Bolt popped off first buzz. Guess I'll need use of one of those again for assembly.

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post #17 of 19 Old 11-14-2013, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda ng gingsa View Post
Pneumatic wrench is really the only way to go for this issue. Bolt popped off first buzz. Guess I'll need use of one of those again for assembly.
You will be able to use a ratchet for installation, watch the torque requirements. ...

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post #18 of 19 Old 11-14-2013, 07:52 AM
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This is a common occurrence, and can take some ingenuity to work around.

Here's what I have done several times: remove the top cap and spring, measure the ID and OD of the spring, go to a plumbing supply and buy a length of PVC pipe that comes close to the dimensions of the spring. Back at the shop compress the fork to about 1/2 travel, slide the pipe down into the fork, mark the pipe at the top of the fork tube, and cut it there. Drop the cut piece back into the fork, install the cap, and compress the fork until it stops. Clamp the station tube in a thoroughly padded vise to hold it in place. Usually it is possible to unscrew the bottom bolt by just pushing against the slider while turning the bolt, but if it's really stuck use a ratchet type tie down to increase the force. Works 99.37% of the time. Roughly.

Rob

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post #19 of 19 Old 11-14-2013, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
This is a common occurrence, and can take some ingenuity to work around.

Here's what I have done several times: remove the top cap and spring, measure the ID and OD of the spring, go to a plumbing supply and buy a length of PVC pipe that comes close to the dimensions of the spring. Back at the shop compress the fork to about 1/2 travel, slide the pipe down into the fork, mark the pipe at the top of the fork tube, and cut it there. Drop the cut piece back into the fork, install the cap, and compress the fork until it stops. Clamp the station tube in a thoroughly padded vise to hold it in place. Usually it is possible to unscrew the bottom bolt by just pushing against the slider while turning the bolt, but if it's really stuck use a ratchet type tie down to increase the force. Works 99.37% of the time. Roughly.

Rob
Thanks. Good tip!

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