Front wheel nut size? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-01-2011, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Front wheel nut size?

Quick question guys: whats d size of the nut on the front wheel? Looks like a quick trip to the hardware is in order.

Also, im doing a rear shock swap soon. You think i can prop-up the rear with jackstands under the footpegs? I have solid coerce footpegs/rearsets.

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post #2 of 6 Old 11-01-2011, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda ng gingsa View Post
Quick question guys: whats d size of the nut on the front wheel? Looks like a quick trip to the hardware is in order.

Also, im doing a rear shock swap soon. You think i can prop-up the rear with jackstands under the footpegs? I have solid coerce footpegs/rearsets.

From memory, but I think the nut is 22mm. Or the bolt head is 22 and the nut is 27ish, but that might be the rear wheel I'm thinkin' of. I would pick up the large metric socket set at Harbor Freight, you'll need it for the axles and swingarm eventually. Sorry, just realized your location, you probably don't have a Harbor Freight there, but yeah, a local hardware store should have what you need.

EDIT: It's 22. See here: https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...lts-16091.html

As for propping up the rear, check out my video of when I removed the Y pipe on my bike. It will show you how to use the center stand mounting points and a piece of rebar to support the bike:

g00gl3it's Channel - YouTube

OR, you can take an "A" frame ladder, throw it up straddling the rear of the bike, remove your seat and cowl, and then use tie-downs connected to the frame and run up through the top rungs of the ladder to raise the rear off the ground. For good measure, you may want to tie the front down to something as well to keep it straight. Zip tie the brake handle to the handgrip so that the front wheel can't roll, too.

See this for more ideas as well:
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ack-27483.html

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post #3 of 6 Old 11-01-2011, 08:17 PM
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You do not have to remove the rear wheel to change the shock, so you can save yourself some time by not removing it.
I block mine under the lean stand lug on the left, and the bottom edge of the aluminum casting (that receives the swing arm pin) on the right. I use axle stands to allow differential heights to keep the bike level.
It's a very easy job.

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post #4 of 6 Old 11-01-2011, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
You do not have to remove the rear wheel to change the shock, so you can save yourself some time by not removing it.
I block mine under the lean stand lug on the left, and the bottom edge of the aluminum casting (that receives the swing arm pin) on the right. I use axle stands to allow differential heights to keep the bike level.
It's a very easy job.

I think he was asking about removing the front wheel. He didn't mention removing the rear.

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post #5 of 6 Old 11-01-2011, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ayt, cool. Lotsa ideas there. A centerstand would make it tons easier! Yup, just doin the front wheel for the springs. Rear wheel will stay on during the shock-swap...dont wanna complicate my life anymore than i have to. Thanks!

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post #6 of 6 Old 11-01-2011, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
I think he was asking about removing the front wheel. He didn't mention removing the rear.
Ahhhh, but he is also going to be doing a shock swap.

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