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Front suspension - MISANO EVO" FORK CARTRIDGE KIT

4K views 32 replies 8 participants last post by  mcromo44 
#1 ·
Before anyone attempts to tell me that I need to search the site - please note - I have done so, multiple times...

So down to the issue, too soft front-end on my 2004 Hornet 900 (Without adjustment possibilities even though some has mentioned an '04 should have some) - tried Wilbers progressive springs in the original fork but still very soft.
I always ride alone, no luggage, nothing else, weighing 87kg it just doesn't feel right. Used for both street and track.
So looking at my options...

Things has changed apparently - no Ohlins upgrades available anymore, only springs - have tried - and they feel the same as the Wilbers...

What I have found, but cannot find anyone having tested are:

ANDREANI MISANO EVO ADJUSTABLE HYDRAULIC CARTRIDGES
https://www.omniaracing.net/en/andr...or-honda-cb900f-hornet-20022006-p-153948.html

Does anyone have any experience with this?
How would this compare to a fork exchange from another bike?
Advantages / disadvantages?

I have been looking at the GSXR, F4i and RC51 upgrade.
Which would be the best option - most information can be found on the RC51, but are there any technical benefits choosing one or the other?
Am I missing some options?

Has anyone done a complete write-up on exactly what to buy and how to complete the upgrades with Eg. a RC51 setup - all I can find is partial information.

I know that this topic has been discussed quite a few times, but I have not been able to find the information I need on the subject.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I don't have any feedback on those cartridges, but will throw in my 2 cents.

A much more affordable option would be to change the compression and rebound valves and shim stacks in your forks. I believe kits are still available from Ohlins and Racetech to do this. [MENTION=81]LDH[/MENTION], a member on this forum, can help you with the Ohlins stuff. Also, if you're trying to firm up the feel, I think you want to avoid progressive rate springs and go with a straight rate spring while you're in there.

That said, some here have noticed improvement with just changing to the proper rate spring for their weight, and changing the fork oil. It all really depends on how much you want to spend and how much you want to change the feel.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the input!

How does this compare to a complete fork exchange?

What I'm uncertain of is the how much difference it would make, if I would upgrade the original forks in comparison to an exchange with some from another bike?
Could I get just as good results with the original forks by upgrading the internals without spending 2 grand?
 
#13 · (Edited)
I'm with this guy. It's quick and relatively inexpensive, and you can go in another direction eventually if you want to. A lot of the other things you are proposing are much more $pendy.

You say you haven't ridden it much yet, so why not just settle in and take it slowly? One step at a time. The stiffer fork springs should help with the brake dive, then you can assess some other stuff, based on your ever-increasing knowledge base.

Eventually you might want to pull the trigger on your money-gun, but it seems a bit early to be doing that just yet.
 
#5 · (Edited)
First off, hello and welcome.
I'm curious:
1
Track days assumed (not some production racing class).
What group are you in?
What are you scraping in the turns? (do you have stock footpegs or aftermarket rearsets?)
2
If you are pushing the riding level and find the front too soft but make no mention of the rear, I have to wonder if you still have the OEM shock or something else.
Can you clarify this point?

As for 2004s, my clear understanding is that all of them came with externally adjustable forks.
If your bike doesn't have them, it suggests that a previous owner retrofitted a set of 02/03 forks.
Do you know if the bike ever been crashed?
2004s also got a rebound adjustable rear shock but with a crazy soft spring.
Hence my wondering under 2 above as to what shock you presently have.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the replies.

In regards to fitting a stiffer spring only, I would like more adjustment possibilities for future track days and more tunablility.

Since I have only had the bike for a month or so, I have not been doing that much riding yet.
I disassembled it to respray a couple of bits and pieces and fit some of the upgraded parts that I thought made sense.

I will be ordering a set of rear sets from https://geckoracing.it/en/honda/rearsets-adjustable-honda-hornet-600-900-1998-2006
They seem to have what is needed with decent configuration possibilities also at a reasonable price.

Back to the questions though, I haven't been scraping that much due to the limited time I have had the bike and since I only got decent tires on (Pirelli GT 2) a week ago, the old ones did not grip at all and was off balance, I have not pushed it that hard yet.

So in the rear I have a Wilbers 641 with high- and low-speed compression as well as rebound and preload adjustment.
They do not have height adjustment available in this configuration.
The spring rate is 180N/mm with a length of 130mm. No curves included with it when I purchased it but had contact with them so could potentially get them.

The version sold in DK does not have adjustment for the '04 model, so no crashes / exchanges etc.

For the optimal setup, what would you recommend.

I don't like doing things twice and since I have already fitted Wilbers progressive springs on the bike, which does not live up to my expectations, I would rather buy what is needed for the best setup (that makes sense).
Currently the nose dive upon breaking is unbearable.
 
#9 ·
Does your bike have any fork adjustment?

Mine is quite awful in regards to breaking.
Bumps are absorbed quite well, but it doesn't feel 100% stable in corners.
I'm getting a bit of wobble as well so I'm also considering a steering damper to make it feel more stable.

All bearings are new and adjusted correctly etc. so it's not due to that either.
Just feels unresponsive and soft for my taste.
 
#15 ·
Remember the thread from some months ago about someone buying a valving kit from them?
I can't find it, nor can I remember whether it was Euro or NorAm rider, but my recollection is that one of things that bubbled up was that the valving kits re Ohlins clones, and one got a bag of shims to do their own stack from.
I could be wrong with some of my recollections, but my memory is usually pretty good.

My guess is that Racinghornet of Denmark is motivated to use a EU source.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for all the input.

I've had contact with Wilbers once again, and they suggested a higher viscosity oil and adjusting the level.
I'll try this first and look for some valving options on the meantime.

I would like to get hold of something from EU since import duties makes it very expensive to buy anything non-EU.

Who else produces valving options?

Racetech has some options, Andreani has some, don't know what Ohlins have?
Anyone else?

Would fitting a valving kit give the same amount of flexibility and performance as a set of F4i or RC51 forks?
 
#19 ·
My question remains; Would another set of forks be a better starting point than the original 919 forks.
On mine there are no adjustment possibilities, except for the obvious, oil, and springs.

If not, why do anyone replace with other forks?

What I am looking for is adjustability resulting in better handling and performance.

I'm not willing to spend $2500 on an upgrade, but there should be something in between that and changing springs and oil, right?
 
#20 ·
...except for the obvious, oil, and springs.
If having your forks revalved then getting the oil and springs right gets you the feel and performance you want, to what extent do you need more adjustability? Are you thinking you need to be able to change settings for your future track days?

My bike has adjustability in the [changed] fork and shock, but having got them to where I want them, I pretty much leave them alone now.
 
#22 ·
The flaw with re-valve kits I think is that it has no room for adjustments. There is no setting that fits every rider, skill level, fork oil type, temperature, track, and fork oil age. Is it still worth getting? I feel like the money is better invested into a set of fully adjustable cartridges.
 
#23 ·
I think that you have misunderstood revalving and reshimming.
Generally speaking, they deal with high speed damping characteristics.
Meanwhile, aside from the relatively few high end fitted bikes that have high speed compression adjustment in addition to the normative low, the external damping adjustments on the vast majority of forks are for low speed damping adjustment only, be it rebound or rebound and compression.
Two totally different arenas of damping control.

I'll also toss in the reminder that "low speed" means low velocity stroking, such as during going over undulating pavement or a change in slope, heavy front braking, plus in the case of rear shocks - squat and rise.
Meanwhile, "high speed" means high velocity stroking, such as hitting bumps or high speed chatter.

Short story, fully adjustable forks with inappropriate valving and shimming are crap forks in terms of overall damping performance.
 
#27 ·
We just do a simple Ohlins piston kit with the correct oil and some generic Ohlins springs made to fit with some PVC spacers. It is not flashy, does not have a wide range of adjustment even on fully adjustable models nor does it really offer a lot of feedback, but it does make the front end compliant and more supportive than OEM.
 
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