Fork valving - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-26-2014, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Fork valving

So I am getting new Race Tech front springs and am pretty sure I am just going to replace the valves too. Question is should I go for the street version or the racing version from Race Tech? Race Tech says both are suitable for the street and the are the same price. Just getting a feel and what you guys think.

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post #2 of 8 Old 08-26-2014, 10:56 PM
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I think mine were G4 valves with C34 stack.

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post #3 of 8 Old 08-27-2014, 09:55 AM
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I built my own stack for intermediate, the reference material had stacks for novice to advanced, street to track.

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post #4 of 8 Old 08-27-2014, 07:06 PM
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If you are buying from Racetech directly, I'm assuming they still have their on line configurator that allows enough time to run various scenarios of rider weight, skill, tires, useage for a range of builds. Then look at the range of builds. For sure, no linear compression stacks for street use !

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post #5 of 8 Old 08-27-2014, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I am going to go with both compression and rebound Gold Kits from Racetech. I talked to them on the phone this morning and was advise on which one to buy and then he told me about the access code to find their calculator.

My question now is what is the torque speck when tightening down the valves.

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post #6 of 8 Old 08-28-2014, 10:44 AM
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30 inch pounds and retain with Locktite 271

Are you doing a low speed compression bleed hole drilling?
Suggested is doing so, as RaceTech for a suggested size.
Too big is worse than too small noting the stock valve doesn't have such a hole.

Compression valving, guessing at some of your factors.
c32 likely
Restrictor stack likely 00.09 or 5.09 depending on the parameters you input.

Do not use High Frequency Rebound kits for the street.

Do not use linear compression for anything but 100 % track duty.

Do not trim hydraulic lock height for anything but 100 % track duty.

Polished tubes with stock seals with no grease between lips = big stiction.
Light fine cross hatch with no peaks above tube surface plus suitable grease between seal lips for reduced stiction.

Use 125 to 140 mm oil height.

Racetech US1 oil 2.5-5 ?
Or something else?

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post #7 of 8 Old 08-28-2014, 10:55 AM
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-28-2014, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
30 inch pounds and retain with Locktite 271 Are you doing a low speed compression bleed hole drilling? Suggested is doing so, as RaceTech for a suggested size. Too big is worse than too small noting the stock valve doesn't have such a hole. Compression valving, guessing at some of your factors. c32 likely Restrictor stack likely 00.09 or 5.09 depending on the parameters you input. Do not use High Frequency Rebound kits for the street. Do not use linear compression for anything but 100 % track duty. Do not trim hydraulic lock height for anything but 100 % track duty. Polished tubes with stock seals with no grease between lips = big stiction. Light fine cross hatch with no peaks above tube surface plus suitable grease between seal lips for reduced stiction. Use 125 to 140 mm oil height. Racetech US1 oil 2.5-5 ? Or something else?
30in-lbs is good I have a torque wrench for that. No track days but maybe after I get everything installed and like the feel. No HFRs got it. I was going to use what ever Racetech told me to use for oil which I think is 5w. 140mm is what I planed on using for my height.

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