Fork seal leaking on brakes! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-17-2014, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Fork seal leaking on brakes!

I just noticed the right fork seal is leaking and it's ending up on the brake rotor!

I've never done fork seals before, but have an idea.

Because this is my only transportation, I need to make sure I get all the parts before I start.

I need to know all the parts that I need to get.

1. seals
2. dust covers
3. seal removal tool (screwdriver?)
4. fork oil

Q. do I need a seal driver (PVC tube)? What size do I need?

Q. What's the going rate for having this done and can it be a "while you wait" deal?

Q. Has anyone posted a write up on this process or should I go by the manual?

Thanks for any tips.

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post #2 of 20 Old 06-17-2014, 09:05 PM
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Your brake pads are now contaminated and will need to be replaced. You will also need a buttload of shop towels and brake parts cleaner and blue Loctite in case you want to just take the rotor off to clean it (easier).

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post #3 of 20 Old 06-17-2014, 09:26 PM
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has the oil contaminated the brake pads?

if so, you can get by without replacing them with this trick.... fill a tupuware container with something like 91% rubbing alcohol. place brake pads in (submerged) and cover with plastic wrap. let sit for a day or two, pull out. place pad on a brick, and use a torch to heat the pad up, the alcohol will burn off the oil in the pads. Did it before when the same thing happened on my 919 as i had just bought the pads. Never had an issue with them.... though take it with a grain of salt.

The trickiest part of the whole process is driving the bushing and seal back in. they make special tools, i used a flexible 2in piece of pvc pipe cut along the centerline.

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post #4 of 20 Old 06-17-2014, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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I watched a YouTube video where he has a driver that's basically 3 blocks and a doughnut type hammer for driving the seal in. Seems like you could make one from some scrap PVC cut in 3 parts and use that to drive the seal down.

Q. Instead of using the fork in a vice to slam out the old seal, can you lift the front of the bike and hit the tire to remove the forks or is there something other than the seal holding the forks.

In other words, what holds the forks together? I see a lower bolt under the axel, is that what hold the forks together? Does that bolt have to be removed to get the seal out?


Here's the video:

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post #5 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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This is a bit weird, but I removed the dust cover and cleaned up a puddle of oil/water, then worked the forks up and down and got very little oil.

I wonder if the cracks on the dust cover caused water to get in there and that picked up a small amount of oil which I saw working down the fork.

In other words, I'm thinking the seal isn't that bad.

Example: I worked the forks a few times and got a lot of oil on it, now it doesn't seem to do it.

I think I keep an eye on it, but that dust seal is a toast.

The PO said the seals were new, but I can't imagine someone replacing seals and not the dust covers.

I'm going to do a few test rides.

Note: I asked a silly question last time about the lower bolt. I think it's clear that you can separate the forks while still connected to the bike. Just lift up the front and pull/hit the forks down.

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post #6 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 04:42 AM
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You can also try the trick with sticking something like 35mm film down the fork seal to clean out any dirt that may be making the seal leak. Some here have done it with success.

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post #7 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 06:32 AM
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Before you get too worked up over re-doing your fork seals, you might try and use a 5 dollar device called a Seal Mate (from MotionPro). If you do not have scratches or serious corrosion on your fork legs then most likely all you need to do is clean out the seal, which is exactly what this device does. You can get the seal mate from Amazon if you have a few days to wait for it to come by USPS. Here is a video for it.


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post #8 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcraft View Post
Before you get too worked up over re-doing your fork seals, you might try and use a 5 dollar device called a Seal Mate (from MotionPro). If you do not have scratches or serious corrosion on your fork legs then most likely all you need to do is clean out the seal, which is exactly what this device does. You can get the seal mate from Amazon if you have a few days to wait for it to come by USPS. Here is a video for it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wlzfoVroSY&feature=kp
You can make your own using a piece out of a plastic jug. Free & easy ... plus it does work.

Homemade Sealmate - fork seal repair tool - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #9 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 07:07 AM
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I was going to suggest something similar but I couldn't think of what to make it with that would be thin enough. I never considered the milk jug because I travel so much I never keep milk at the house anymore, lol. I just usually buy a 1 liter bottle Friday night and its gone on Sunday or saturday.

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post #10 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 07:16 AM
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This was mine last year... I got one of the seal mates and cleaned it out and have put on 5,000 ish miles since with no problems and no more leaks
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
You can make your own using a piece out of a plastic jug. Free & easy ... plus it does work.

Homemade Sealmate - fork seal repair tool - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
I second this! My left fork seal was leaking a little and this did the trick. You could get fancy and print off the template online and make your own replica. I just eye balled it and it worked like a charm.

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post #12 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
You can make your own using a piece out of a plastic jug. Free & easy ... plus it does work.

Homemade Sealmate - fork seal repair tool - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
I'm not a member of the site the Goldwing forum, so I couldn't download the pdf template. Does anyone have it handy? That would be something good for goog to put on the drop box.

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post #13 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 08:12 AM
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Just to make certain, if your brake pad has been soaked with brake fluid, you still definitely want to swap to a new set of pads and wipe down your rotor with brake cleaner and a rag while you have the caliper off.

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post #14 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrow919 View Post
I'm not a member of the site the Goldwing forum, so I couldn't download the pdf template. Does anyone have it handy? That would be something good for goog to put on the drop box.
It's already in there

Look in the Misc. folder. Oh, and just use a 20oz pop bottle! Coke works great - if you cut the hooked end up near the tapered portion of the bottle, you get a natural curve that helps point the pointy end (twss) towards the seal.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ra9j3gn4c...qU3ZOL4JuwuBKa

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post #15 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
It's already in there

Look in the Misc. folder. Oh, and just use a 20oz pop bottle! Coke works great - if you cut the hooked end up near the tapered portion of the bottle, you get a natural curve that helps point the pointy end (twss) towards the seal.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ra9j3gn4c...qU3ZOL4JuwuBKa
Cool thanks goog. I'm going to cut one out and try it on my sons dirt bike this evening. What's the thickness of an actual sealmate again?

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post #16 of 20 Old 06-18-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrow919 View Post
Cool thanks goog. I'm going to cut one out and try it on my sons dirt bike this evening. What's the thickness of an actual sealmate again?
No idea. I've always used a pop bottle

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post #17 of 20 Old 06-19-2014, 09:45 AM
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This should do nicely. 3d printed in about 15 min.

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post #18 of 20 Old 06-19-2014, 09:46 AM
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About 0.030" thick.

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post #19 of 20 Old 06-19-2014, 09:55 AM
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post #20 of 20 Old 06-19-2014, 10:08 AM
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