First valve check at 40.5k miles - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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First valve check at 40.5k miles

I knew I was long overdue for a valve clearance check since I've never had the valves checked and I acquired this bike at a little over 12k miles. This means I've put 38k miles on it without checking the valves or changing the spark plugs even. For the last month I've noticed that the bike has developed consistent stumble and hesitation throughout the rev range. The first symptoms started about 6-8 months ago that were very slight and only at certain rpms. As it progressively got worse I knew the spark plugs were shot and the valves were likely in need of adjustment. So I waited for a 3 day weekend, knowing that a specific dealership would be open on Sundays and Mondays thus allowing me to obtain shims if needed during the weekend and have the bike buttoned up in time for commute duties at the start of the 4 day work week.

Using https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...avy-30897.html and https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...eck-16661.html as a guide in addition to the book (I like visual references as I'm a visual person when I haven't done something before), I checked my valves at 40.5k miles. This is the first time the bike has had a valve clearance check.

Much to my surprise, every single one of the valves were within spec! I didn't think that could be right considering it was the first valve check AND the fact that I ride her hard (redline on multiple days, multiple track days, etc) so I double checked. Yup, ALL are within spec. Amazing.

Here is what I have:

#1 intake: .005, .005
#1 exhaust: .009, .009

#2 intake: .006, .006
#2 exhaust: .009, .009

#3 intake: .006, .006
#3 exhaust: .009, .009

#4 intake: .005, .005
#4 exhaust: .009, .009

#2 and #3 cylinders on the intake side were right in the ballpark. #1 and #4 are on the tight side of the range but still in spec. Interestingly, all of the exhaust valves for all cylinders are on the tight side of the range but still within spec.

Considering this is the very first valve check and its at 40.5k miles, good enough for me!

I'll bet the next time I check (8-16k miles), I'll need to make some adjustments for most of the valves, so a HotCam kit will likely be a useful investment.

I kept reading about people saying how the #3 spark plug was such a pain so I thought I would experiment and take out all the plugs before removing the valve cover. Once I got the stuff I needed out of the way for the valve cover removal, removing the #3 plug was a breeze with the OEM spark plug tool. I was pleasantly surprised by this.

Now, I'm pretty sure this is the second set of plugs the 919 has seen, so they likely have 32k miles on them. Man do they look wore out! Pictures don't even really do them justice. Interestingly, the #3 plug looks the best by far, not having any burn marks on the insulation compared to the other 3. Picture has them 1-4 from left to right.

All 4 spark plugs
Close up shot

Removing the valve cover was also not that bad. I didn't drain the coolant, propped the fuel tank up, unbolted the #1 ignition coil and moved it out of the way, and then I was set to go.

Getting the valve cover back on however, will be interesting. I'll have to report on that later today. Since everything is within spec, I don't have to go to the dealership But I need to drive a ways to pick up the spark plugs I needed, no sweat.

Also changed the oil. I played with the oil a bit while in the northwet and switched from the Rotella T 15w-40 to the T6. I noticed the T6 5w-40 was not performing well here in the hot heat after 2 oil changes. So I did some research and found that the 5w-40 tends to break down a lot quicker than 15w-40 in extremes. Being a motorcycle and being in the high heat of the desert, I decided to venture away from the T6 and look for a 15w-40 synthetic. I couldn't find any 15w-40 anywhere that was synthetic. I happened upon a gallon jug of Royal Purple 10w-40 synthetic for $35 and thought I'd give it a try. Nope, it actually felt worse than the T6 and felt as if it sheared a lot quicker than the T6, and that was during the cold months! What a disappointment. This time I decided to go back to the tried and tested Rotella T 15w-40 for $15 and see how that performs in the upcoming heat.

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post #2 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 11:24 AM
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Well done PV! Glad all was in spec for you. My first adjustment was at 32K then another slight adjustment at 48K (both intakes). All was OK at 64K and I expect that they will be ok at 80K this summer. Just take your time getting the cover back on and don't torque the cover bolts too hard. A couple of folks have sheared them off.

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post #3 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 11:24 AM
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 11:27 AM
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did you expect anything differet... the 919 is a champ!

the slight hesitation, might try resyncing throttle boddies idle circuits.

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post #5 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 12:11 PM
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Thanks for posting this. I have to do mine (35k miles !) very soon. One question... Nobody mentioned replacing the valve cover gasket or the seals on the bolts. I was looking at these items online, planning to order, and noted the gasket was $36 !

Thoughts on reusing the gasket?

Thanks in advance...

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post #6 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robroten View Post
Thanks for posting this. I have to do mine (35k miles !) very soon. One question... Nobody mentioned replacing the valve cover gasket or the seals on the bolts. I was looking at these items online, planning to order, and noted the gasket was $36 !

Thoughts on reusing the gasket?

Thanks in advance...
They're reusable. I'm replacing them on my mc22, but they are 19 years old and hard as a rock.

if you love your motorcycle, set it free.. if it comes back and hits you.. you highsided
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robroten View Post
Thanks for posting this. I have to do mine (35k miles !) very soon. One question... Nobody mentioned replacing the valve cover gasket or the seals on the bolts. I was looking at these items online, planning to order, and noted the gasket was $36 !

Thoughts on reusing the gasket?

Thanks in advance...
I have re-used both 4 times so you should be fine. Just inspect both before you put it back on for any damage or signs that you may want to replace the next time.

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post #8 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 01:13 PM
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Thanks for the comments !!! I'm very anal about things like that, lol...

I've got to do the plugs in a couple of thousand miles and will check the valves then.

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post #9 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well, got everything back together and buttoned up. Fired her up and she immediately purred like a kitten. Will take her out for a test ride later tonight as I promised my wife I'd play Dying Light with her today.

I also went ahead and replaced the clutch cable. Yes Wes, Mike(both) and Andrew, I actually replaced the clutch cable!

Will need to get that dialed in during the test ride. So far, I've had her idle for over 3 minutes and no oil leaks so that's a good thing. The test ride will tell the tale though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Just take your time getting the cover back on and don't torque the cover bolts too hard. A couple of folks have sheared them off.
Yeah that was my concern. Out of the entire process, I would have to say that getting the valve cover back on with/without the gasket was the hardest part. Definitely requires some finesse! And Patience! I followed another member's advice in the thread linked above to prop the valve cover up while prepping the half moons and applied some RVT (just a small dab) to help hold them in place while you set the valve cover down and torque it. The worse bolt is the middle one on the intake side. Couldn't fit my torque wrench in between the valve cover and the frame neck. So I ended up tightening it up by hand after getting a feel for the other bolts. FYI, 9 ft lbs = 108 inch pounds. That's the ticket right there, 1/4 inch torque wrench ftw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Pics?
Pics worked for me? Let me know if pictures are not working and I'll get em fixed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
did you expect anything differet... the 919 is a champ!

the slight hesitation, might try resyncing throttle boddies idle circuits.
I honestly didn't know what to expect. It being the first valve adjustment for the bike, I was certainly prepared for the worse!

If you haven't already, look at the spark plugs. I can bet with 100% certainty that was my issue. It wasn't just a slight hesitation. It started out that way and just got progressively worse until it was at the point where I'd be in 5th and go WOT on the freeway and it'd just fall flat on its face before getting a kick or 2 and taking off. 3 of the insulators on the plugs were burned through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
I have re-used both 4 times so you should be fine. Just inspect both before you put it back on for any damage or signs that you may want to replace the next time.
This. Don't worry about the gasket. Just take your time removing the valve cover gasket and be patient. For me, the gasket wanted to stick to the valve cover more than the cylinder head so I just worked loose the areas of the gasket that were sticking to the cylinder head until the gasket and valve cover came out in one piece.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robroten View Post
Thanks for the comments !!! I'm very anal about things like that, lol...

I've got to do the plugs in a couple of thousand miles and will check the valves then.
Really, don't sweat it. I was really worried about the whole process as I've never done it on the 919. It's actually really easy, the manual just makes it look very vague and uncertain. The threads I linked above really deserve credit as they helped me a lot. Oh, it also helps if you have the right size gauges to use, the first time

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post #10 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 03:42 PM
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Eh, pics are fine. I was expecting them embedded in the thread and not clickable. I'm lazy, what can I say

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post #11 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
might try resyncing throttle boddies idle circuits.

Didn't think this was possible to sync the throttle bodies on the 919?

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post #12 of 15 Old 02-16-2015, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULIBIKER View Post
Didn't think this was possible to sync the throttle bodies on the 919?
you can sync the idle circuits for it which helps burbles and hesitation at very low throttle openings.

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post #13 of 15 Old 03-16-2015, 07:10 PM
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Nice work Pvster, this is bloody handy. Cheers for the effort and attention to detail.
My 9'r is at 48,000 km so probably only needs a check.

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post #14 of 15 Old 03-16-2015, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maloney67 View Post
Nice work Pvster, this is bloody handy. Cheers for the effort and attention to detail.
My 9'r is at 48,000 km so probably only needs a check.
Sorry, but I don't deserve the credit. The author of the threads I linked deserves all the credit. They made this so much easier for me. Love the community here.

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post #15 of 15 Old 03-15-2016, 10:14 AM
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Thanks for this post and the links to the others. I just did the first check on mine yesterday at 38,660 miles. All were within spec.

Question. What purpose does releasing the cam chain tensioner serve? Is it to allow the cams to more readily rest on the base circle of the cam profile which would ensure a proper clearance check?

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