FI issue needing sorted 919 - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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FI issue needing sorted 919

My '05 919 was running fine, I took the tank and such off for paint..........removed the fuel pump etc. Re-assembled last night and now the FI light stays solid and it won't prime. You don't hear it kick on at all (the fuel pump). Everything else works, but it won't pressurize the system (fuel pump not priming). Checked the fuses and they are fine. I don't see how the pump could go bad from removing very carefully and bolting back in..........but I'm stumped on what the issue is. Anyone?

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post #2 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 09:14 AM
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This sounds dumb, but I've done it. Did you hit the kill switch? My old nighthawk would still crank with the kill switch on, the 919 doesn't. Also check the kickstand switch.

I know, you probably already checked all this, but sometimes it's the obvious stuff that get's us.

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post #3 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the deal as of right now.........we tested the pump off the bike and it works fine. The pump is good. Now I need to find out other possibilities.......we're thinking either:

1. ECU (God I hope not....)
2. Relay
3. Ground

Hmmmmmmm..........

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I pulled the brown/black wire from the black ECU plug and sent it directly to ground.....the fuel pump runs constant that way. Does that mean I have a bad ground or the ECU needs replacing?

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post #5 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Nevermind..........apparently the 919 has some sort of anti-theft crap built in.........my RC51 ignition switch was the issue, I plugged the 919 switch in and BAM! It works..........LOL! You live you learn

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post #6 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMiller View Post
Nevermind..........apparently the 919 has some sort of anti-theft crap built in.........my RC51 ignition switch was the issue, I plugged the 919 switch in and BAM! It works..........LOL! You live you learn
coughcoughTARDcoughcough



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post #7 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
coughcoughTARDcoughcough
Yeah, well now comes the fun of fitting the 919 ignition switch in the smaller RC upper triple..........fun fun.

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post #8 of 12 Old 08-17-2009, 05:37 PM
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https://wristtwisters.com/naked-bikes...-problems.html
It sounds like the 11.4 volt zener diode is'nt in the other ignition switch.

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
------- Rob --------
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-17-2009, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
https://wristtwisters.com/naked-bikes...-problems.html
It sounds like the 11.4 volt zener diode is'nt in the other ignition switch.

Rob
That would be a negative

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post #10 of 12 Old 08-17-2009, 07:14 PM
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http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5000to5099/pdf/nte5061a.pdf
NTE electronics listing NTE141A 11.5 volt zener diode. Fry's carries NTE components -- if they don't have it in stock they can order it.

This should do the job. Just connect the cathode (banded end) to the +12V ignition on wire, and the other end to the pink wire. It must be connected to the Red / Black wire, not a Black / White ECU power wire -- the ECU has to see the 11.5 V initialization signal before it is powered up, otherwise it may not come on. In doing this, you are defeating the anti theft (such as it is) feature -- in the off position the 919 ignition switch shorts across the zener diode, sending battery voltage through the Pink wire to the ECU, preventing initialization if the bike is hot wired.

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
------- Rob --------
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-17-2009, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks bro, I got it sorted though by swapping the 919 ignition switch back in........at least the key set matches

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post #12 of 12 Old 08-12-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5000to5099/pdf/nte5061a.pdf
NTE electronics listing NTE141A 11.5 volt zener diode. Fry's carries NTE components -- if they don't have it in stock they can order it.

This should do the job. Just connect the cathode (banded end) to the +12V ignition on wire, and the other end to the pink wire. It must be connected to the Red / Black wire, not a Black / White ECU power wire -- the ECU has to see the 11.5 V initialization signal before it is powered up, otherwise it may not come on. In doing this, you are defeating the anti theft (such as it is) feature -- in the off position the 919 ignition switch shorts across the zener diode, sending battery voltage through the Pink wire to the ECU, preventing initialization if the bike is hot wired.

Rob




Has anybody tried replacing just the zener diode in their ignition switch rather than replacing the whole switch(contact base)?

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