Electrical/starting help needed - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-10-2014, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical/starting help needed

Hey guys,

I've been having issues since I performed valve checks and installed new injectors + PAIR plates. First the bike wouldn't start, it was just clicking. I replaced the battery and while it will start now, I'm still having issues.

Here's an example of what happens:
Turn ignition to Run, gauges sweep, fuel pump primes. Press starter button, absolutely nothing happens; no noise at all, nothing. Wait a second and press it again, starter engages and engine turns over but doesn't start. It slows as I hold the button in and once I let go I get a second sweep of the gauges/pump priming. At this point the clock and trip meter have reset as if the battery had been disconnected. If I press the button a third time the engine will often start after a second or two of cranking, if not on the third try it will start on the fourth or fifth.

This isn't the rule, but neither is it the exception; occasionally it will fire up on the first or second try, but it has done what I described above multiple times. I'm pretty sure the battery is fine; it gives good readings and I left my grip heaters on for about an hour after parking the other night and she started up just fine the next day. In fact when it does take multiple attempts to start it seems to crank better/faster on the subsequent tries, as opposed to losing power.

Any ideas on what to check? I imagine it's a poor connection somewhere, maybe a ground, but where would it be that it's affecting the starter/ignition as well as the gauges? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 16 Old 06-10-2014, 06:43 PM
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Ground wire under your tank, or your kickstand kill wire is loose. My guesses but im just guessing.

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post #3 of 16 Old 06-10-2014, 09:23 PM
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When you said that it 'starts to slow down' while cranking, that points to a bad battery to me...

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post #4 of 16 Old 06-11-2014, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
When you said that it 'starts to slow down' while cranking, that points to a bad battery to me...
This. Hondas are known for being quite picky about their battery voltages. Just because there's enough voltage to turn the engine over or even fire up does not mean it'll run quite right.

Check the battery under load and see what numbers you come up with. Also be sure to check your terminals, that they are actually tight and making good contact. Also check your grounds as previously mentioned. Be sure to check all the plug connections you messed with while replacing the injectors.

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post #5 of 16 Old 06-11-2014, 01:31 AM
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Have the battery load tested and then check your connections.

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-11-2014, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. I lifted the tank and checked every connection I could find, including the battery terminals. I couldn't find any obvious issues. :-( I did find a vacant connection (see pic) that I'm unsure of, but there isn't any plug to match it so I assume it's suppose to be that way.

I'll bring the battery to Autozone for a test. It still seems odd to me that it would start after multiple tries (wouldn't it be strongest on the first?) and then sometimes the gauges immediately sweep again after the engine starts and my clock is reset (as shown in video).

Here's a video of it from today. After that first round it was able to start on the first try a couple of times, although the clock did reset even after it started on the first try.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0837.JPG (273.6 KB, 24 views)

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post #7 of 16 Old 06-11-2014, 09:21 PM
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Dead battery dude, lol. Replace it. Don't even get it tested, just get a new one.

FYI, even though it 'turns over' it doesn't mean it's generating enough spark, if any, to start the engine.

Go lithium! You won't be disappointed.

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post #8 of 16 Old 06-11-2014, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacis View Post
Thanks for the responses. I lifted the tank and checked every connection I could find, including the battery terminals. I couldn't find any obvious issues. :-( I did find a vacant connection (see pic) that I'm unsure of, but there isn't any plug to match it so I assume it's suppose to be that way.

I'll bring the battery to Autozone for a test. It still seems odd to me that it would start after multiple tries (wouldn't it be strongest on the first?) and then sometimes the gauges immediately sweep again after the engine starts and my clock is reset (as shown in video).

Here's a video of it from today. After that first round it was able to start on the first try a couple of times, although the clock did reset even after it started on the first try.
That plug is for the PAIR valve. Its been removed so don't worry about it.

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-12-2014, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Dead battery dude, lol. Replace it. Don't even get it tested, just get a new one.

FYI, even though it 'turns over' it doesn't mean it's generating enough spark, if any, to start the engine.

Go lithium! You won't be disappointed.
I did go lithium! It's a brand new Battery Tender LiFePO4.

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post #10 of 16 Old 06-12-2014, 12:34 AM
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Did you charge it before putting it on the bike? Or test it for proper voltage?

You might have gotten a bad one. I know Helimech got a bad Ballistic. It can happen.

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post #11 of 16 Old 06-12-2014, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I did charge it when I first got it, at least I thought so. I hooked it up and surprisingly my charger gave the full charge signal in about 15 minutes (which I thought was fishy). I've also purposely been on a few long rides (1+ hrs) to give it a good charge.

This morning the bike wouldn't start at all. I have the battery on a charger right now and it's been going for 30+ minutes. If it says it's fully charged quickly then I'll just take it to get tested and then send it in for a replacement (assuming it will fail). If it takes a long time to charge then I'll try it again in the bike, assuming maybe that I never truly charged it properly to begin with.

Thanks again for everyone's help. Sort of relieved that it probably is just the battery, but frustrated to possibly have to send it back and wait for a replacement.

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post #12 of 16 Old 06-12-2014, 05:59 PM
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Why not test with a different cheap 35$ battery you know is charged and ready to go? Like, a buddy with a bike...got any around?

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post #13 of 16 Old 06-12-2014, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Oh hell. So a few hours on the maintainer and this is what I find...
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-12-2014, 11:27 PM
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Known issue with that brand. Other reviews on Amazon said the same thing. Take it back! Go with Shorai or ballistic.

...on my droid.

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post #15 of 16 Old 06-13-2014, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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I sent it back to the seller (Stored Energy Products) today. Asking for a refund, but they may only do a replacement. We'll see.

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post #16 of 16 Old 06-13-2014, 08:43 PM
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I'd complain until you get the refund. Tell them it's unsafe and that you don't support the product. They should offer a refund, or offer a different brand at least.

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