Does the fuel flow out when you remove the tank? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 09-11-2013, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Does the fuel flow out when you remove the tank?

I'm going to remove the tank and it's near full. If I keep the fuel pump in place and just remove the hoses, will the fuel leak out or will the fuel pump stop the fuel?

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post #2 of 20 Old 09-11-2013, 10:58 PM
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It will flow out of a hose on the left side if I recall correctly. Just put a pair of vice grips on it or have a fuel can ready to catch it.

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post #3 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
It will flow out of a hose on the left side if I recall correctly. Just put a pair of vice grips on it or have a fuel can ready to catch it.
Correct, but fuel will flow out both fuel lines. You have the fuel line from the pump to the fuel rail that is pressurized and very hard to clamp down cleanly and securely. If in doubt, drain the tank. Takes a 17mm wrench to break free the nut. Do not lose either washer!

The fuel line on the left side is the return line from the fuel rail back to the tank. Just move the hose clamp and push the hose off the plumbing. A screwdriver works good, don't worry the rubber is thick enough to take it.

I've swapped tanks 4-5 times now so I have it down to an art (just ask Andrew,mdtoney, Google, or osiris lol) Do the tank removal in this order:

Make sure bike and all electronics are off and remove headlight fuse (thanks osiris for this great idea!)
Loosen tank hinge bolt(do not remove!)
Push tank to the rear so you clear rubber grommets
Prop tank up with something stable from the back bone. Just enough to clear the grounding wire bolt on the frame
Remove bolt holding grounding wire
Prop tank up further but keep it stable
Open the gas cap with key and then put key back into ignition
Put a rag under fuel line connection at the fuel rail and break the 17mm nut loose only, do not remove just yet
Have fuel can nearby (make sure it is large enough to hold all the fuel that needs to be drained)
Remove nut by hand and ensure you don't lose the washer
Push tank forward slightly to give the fuel line some slack, pop it off the fuel rail and quickly stuff it into the gas can neck
Turn ignition on and use the stop/run switch to prime fuel pump, effectively using the fuel pump to drain the tank. Otherwise you'll be waiting several hours for gravity to do it's work(and even then not very well).
When the pump can't move any more fuel, the pump will sound different, only run it once or twice once the sound starts to change otherwise you'll burn it up
Now move left side hose clamp and push/pull hose off of plumbing
Pull venting hoses from plumbing on underside of tank
Unplug fuel pump from harness
Unless you have extra hands, do not pull the hinge bolt. Instead, undo the two bolts holding the tank to the hinge (when installing tank, take hinge off of frame and install it on tank before installing the tank itself)
Have a beer because you are done.

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post #4 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post

Correct, but fuel will flow out both fuel lines. You have the fuel line from the pump to the fuel rail that is pressurized and very hard to clamp down cleanly and securely. If in doubt, drain the tank. Takes a 17mm wrench to break free the nut. Do not lose either washer!

The fuel line on the left side is the return line from the fuel rail back to the tank. Just move the hose clamp and push the hose off the plumbing. A screwdriver works good, don't worry the rubber is thick enough to take it.

I've swapped tanks 4-5 times now so I have it down to an art (just ask Andrew,mdtoney, Google, or osiris lol) Do the tank removal in this order:

Make sure bike and all electronics are off and remove headlight fuse (thanks osiris for this great idea!)
Loosen tank hinge bolt(do not remove!)
Push tank to the rear so you clear rubber grommets
Prop tank up with something stable from the back bone. Just enough to clear the grounding wire bolt on the frame
Remove bolt holding grounding wire
Prop tank up further but keep it stable
Open the gas cap with key and then put key back into ignition
Put a rag under fuel line connection at the fuel rail and break the 17mm nut loose only, do not remove just yet
Have fuel can nearby (make sure it is large enough to hold all the fuel that needs to be drained)
Remove nut by hand and ensure you don't lose the washer
Push tank forward slightly to give the fuel line some slack, pop it off the fuel rail and quickly stuff it into the gas can neck
Turn ignition on and use the stop/run switch to prime fuel pump, effectively using the fuel pump to drain the tank. Otherwise you'll be waiting several hours for gravity to do it's work(and even then not very well).
When the pump can't move any more fuel, the pump will sound different, only run it once or twice once the sound starts to change otherwise you'll burn it up
Now move left side hose clamp and push/pull hose off of plumbing
Pull venting hoses from plumbing on underside of tank
Unplug fuel pump from harness
Unless you have extra hands, do not pull the hinge bolt. Instead, undo the two bolts holding the tank to the hinge (when installing tank, take hinge off of frame and install it on tank before installing the tank itself)
Have a beer because you are done.
Soooo.....not sure if I got all that....could you repeat it...

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post #5 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 07:24 AM
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if it is near full you probably need to drain or run some of it off in order to tip it back enough to get it off properly without gas coming out of your gashole....

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post #6 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
blah blah blah
You know, it would be much easier to drain the tank by opening the gas cap, disconnecting the fuel line on the left side off the FPR, and then letting the fuel drain into a canister. There's nothing in the way of letting the fuel empty out on the left hose. WTF is this nonsense with turning the kill switch on and off just to squirt out a tiny bit of gas out of the fuel pump?

EDIT: and it doesn't take several hours to do it this way. I think someone just forgot to open the gas cap.

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post #7 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sckill View Post

You know, it would be much easier to drain the tank by opening the gas cap, disconnecting the fuel line on the left side off the FPR, and then letting the fuel drain into a canister. There's nothing in the way of letting the fuel empty out on the left hose. WTF is this nonsense with turning the kill switch on and off just to squirt out a tiny bit of gas out of the fuel pump?

EDIT: and it doesn't take several hours to do it this way. I think someone just forgot to open the gas cap.
Yup. Or just clamp it and take off the tank.

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post #8 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 01:56 PM
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By all means, if you guys think you have a better way of doing it, knock yourselves out.

I've done it enough times to figure out the majority of the shortcuts and know where/how to save time and hassle. Google, toney, Andrew and osiris were all there and saw how fast it went.

You want to do it the longer way, be my guest

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post #9 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 02:27 PM
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Pop the cap and suck the juice out of it



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post #10 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Pop the cap and suck the juice out of it

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post #11 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:28 PM
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FWIW, we drained all five gallons (not 5.2, sadly) out of PV's tank in about 7 or 8 minutes, just using the fuel pump. We took out the fuse for the headlight to save the battery, but it didn't slow down a bit.

We let it drain for a minute or so, but it was agonizingly slow. The pump was quick and dirty.......

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post #12 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
FWIW, we drained all five gallons (not 5.2, sadly) out of PV's tank in about 7 or 8 minutes, just using the fuel pump. We took out the fuse for the headlight to save the battery, but it didn't slow down a bit.

We let it drain for a minute or so, but it was agonizingly slow. The pump was quick and dirty.......
No doubt it works, if you're draining your tank to change it. If you are just pulling it off temporarily, why pump it out at all?

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post #13 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
No doubt it works, if you're draining your tank to change it. If you are just pulling it off temporarily, why pump it out at all?
Hence, the FWIW. We WERE changing the tank .

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post #14 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:49 PM
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I have one of these, takes two D batteries and can empty a 5 gallon tank in minutes!

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post #15 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash97 View Post
Attachment 29553

I have one of these, takes two D batteries and can empty a 5 gallon tank in minutes!
So this is what you were telling me about that doubles as your Shake Weight???


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post #16 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 04:31 PM
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Is that one of them Lyposuction attachments?


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post #17 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Got the tank off, just used that left return hose to drain the fuel into a gas can.

Just in case someone doesn't know, lifting the tank and setting it on wood blocks isn't a great idea if it's on the side stand. The full tank wanted to fall off and nearly damaged some lines as it tried to fall.

Best to drain the tank before messing with it.

Got the spark plugs out and they were looking lean on 1 and 2 vs darker on 3 and 4, but not bad.

Those plugs are a PITA to get to, but removing the wires helps.

Oil and filter are changed and the chain is next.

The chain look like sh!t!

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post #18 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 08:02 PM
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You know you don't have to take the tank right off to do the plugs. Right?

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post #19 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
You know you don't have to take the tank right off to do the plugs. Right?
Yea, but I didn't think it was that hard and I'll be digging into the bike for deeper jobs anyways, so good practice.

BTW, can you help me with the wires?

I got the #2 plug going to the top of the 2/3 coil, but I'm not sure if that's correct or not.

(I thought the coils would be labeled)

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post #20 of 20 Old 09-12-2013, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post

So this is what you were telling me about that doubles as your Shake Weight???

Not so much...but would probably work for cleaning out the tailpipe of ghey bikes

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