Cooling Problem - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 41 Old 05-02-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Cooling Problem

My 02 919 has developed a cooling problem. Itís basically air cooled. On cooler days it will sit just above the cool notch on the thermometer. If itís over 65 degrees outside it sits a couple CM above the cool notch. This is all while moving. If itís cool out, it will rise slowly til the fan kicks in. No problem. If itís warm out it will rise pretty quickly. I had to killswitch it a couple times today when traffic stopped on the interstate. Sometimes the temp will rise even when moving. Iím going to test the thermostat in the morning. Iím still 60 miles from making it home right now.

I recently replaced the radiator, because the mounting bracket fell off while I was trying to rinse it out. This problem was present with both radiators. The coolant has been changed multiple times and itís mostly distilled water right now. Iíve tried water wetter and no water wetter.

I suspect the thermostat, but some of you guys know the 919 far better than me. Maybe bad temp sensor, or even water pump?

Going to suit up and try to keep it in the wind and limp home.

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post #2 of 41 Old 05-02-2018, 10:23 PM
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Be VERY careful about shutting off the engine because of heat. That can ruin an engine. Engine temps go UP after you shut the engine off.


First off, you have to find out what the real temp is and you need to figure out if it's flowing and check for air bubbles.

Sounds like you covered a few things and know what you're doing. I'm not sure about the bleeding process, but you really need to get the air out of the system.

I have a bone stock bike and have never had any cooling problem. It's gets 100~110 here, so I think if the 919 had a cooling problem stock, I would know.

A couple of things some people get wrong. Water cools BETTER than antifreeze. Water wetter helps. Flowing too fast doesn't always help as you need an amount of time for the heat transfer to take place.

Checking for flow could be done with hoses and a bucket. You can hook up hoses so it draws from a bucket and dumps back in, run the engine for a bit and see if the water is flowing.

You can check for AIR flow thru the rad, look at how much is flowing thru. Rocks, dirt, mud, etc... build up. I had an A/C completely clog up because of dust.

Bleeding air out of the system... I'm not sure where the valve is on the 919, but there's usually a process to get the air out. It's usually near the top of the system.

I would run straight water, check the air flow thru the rad, look for damage to the fins and check the true temp at a few spots. I've seen stick on type temp gauges for cheap, IR ones are < $30.

If it continues, I'd replace the water pump. IDK what kind the 919 has, but they can get rusted up over time. Maybe even take it out and clean it up.

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post #3 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 02:31 AM
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Are you running with a fork bag, at all?

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post #4 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Be VERY careful about shutting off the engine because of heat. That can ruin an engine. Engine temps go UP after you shut the engine off.





First off, you have to find out what the real temp is and you need to figure out if it's flowing and check for air bubbles.



Sounds like you covered a few things and know what you're doing. I'm not sure about the bleeding process, but you really need to get the air out of the system.



I have a bone stock bike and have never had any cooling problem. It's gets 100~110 here, so I think if the 919 had a cooling problem stock, I would know.



A couple of things some people get wrong. Water cools BETTER than antifreeze. Water wetter helps. Flowing too fast doesn't always help as you need an amount of time for the heat transfer to take place.



Checking for flow could be done with hoses and a bucket. You can hook up hoses so it draws from a bucket and dumps back in, run the engine for a bit and see if the water is flowing.



You can check for AIR flow thru the rad, look at how much is flowing thru. Rocks, dirt, mud, etc... build up. I had an A/C completely clog up because of dust.



Bleeding air out of the system... I'm not sure where the valve is on the 919, but there's usually a process to get the air out. It's usually near the top of the system.



I would run straight water, check the air flow thru the rad, look for damage to the fins and check the true temp at a few spots. I've seen stick on type temp gauges for cheap, IR ones are < $30.



If it continues, I'd replace the water pump. IDK what kind the 919 has, but they can get rusted up over time. Maybe even take it out and clean it up.


When cutting the engine off the fan was still running, otherwise I wouldnít have.

Ive got about 85% or more pure water.

The new radiator is definitely 100% on air flow.

Iíve got a IR thermometer I intend to use of the thermostat checks out.

I didnít think about checking for water flow with buckets and hoses. Thatís a good idea. I appreciate your input.

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post #5 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Are you running with a fork bag, at all?


Negative, sir. I did have one I considered mounting but it was too big for the forks to compress.

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post #6 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Coondawg07 View Post
My 02 919 has developed a cooling problem. Itís basically air cooled. On cooler days it will sit just above the cool notch on the thermometer. If itís over 65 degrees outside it sits a couple CM above the cool notch. This is all while moving. If itís cool out, it will rise slowly til the fan kicks in. No problem. If itís warm out it will rise pretty quickly. I had to killswitch it a couple times today when traffic stopped on the interstate. Sometimes the temp will rise even when moving. Iím going to test the thermostat in the morning. Iím still 60 miles from making it home right now.

I recently replaced the radiator, because the mounting bracket fell off while I was trying to rinse it out. This problem was present with both radiators. The coolant has been changed multiple times and itís mostly distilled water right now. Iíve tried water wetter and no water wetter.

I suspect the thermostat, but some of you guys know the 919 far better than me. Maybe bad temp sensor, or even water pump?

Going to suit up and try to keep it in the wind and limp home.
How high did the needle get on the gauge when you decided to turn off the engine in stalled traffic?

A fully warmed 919 in creepy crawly traffic on a warmish day will have the fan cycling on and off with very noticeable frequency, and the needle will very noticeably track the fan on/off cycling.

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post #7 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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It got very close to the red line. This is where it was when I pulled in my driveway after idling for only about 30 seconds. It got much closer to red line than this but I had my gloves on and couldnít take a picture. I cut it off on two occasions. It may have never actually hit the red line if I had let it operate, but it got close enough to scare me.

The thing that concerns me is that even at 80mph on the interstate the needle never got all the way down to the cool mark. Close, but not quite. Then immediately after stopping it starts to rise, immediately.

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post #8 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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The thermostat appeared to function normally.

Looks like the temperature sensor is out of spec. Iím getting a reading of 1.2ohms and the spec is 2.1-2.6. It says to replace if itís off by more than 10%. Iím going to run it through the temp range in a pan of water to be sure.

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post #9 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 10:02 AM
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It's a long shot, but the 919 also has an oil cooler. From the looks of it, you can remove that. I'd check to make sure it doesn't have a bubble locked in or something blocking flow.

If you've change the Tstat, it has a direction, I know on some it'll actually fit backwards, don't know about the Honda.

I'd also see if you can remove the water lines and stick your finger in there to see how much crud is in there. Maybe time for a good power flush.

Either way, this is all moot until you KNOW the true temp. IIRC, temp gauges are based on resistance and can fail over time.

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post #10 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Coondawg07 View Post
The thermostat appeared to function normally.

Looks like the temperature sensor is out of spec. Iím getting a reading of 1.2ohms and the spec is 2.1-2.6. It says to replace if itís off by more than 10%. Iím going to run it through the temp range in a pan of water to be sure.
I'm beginning to get a sense that maybe your cooling system is actually OK and the gauge is just getting spooked by the sensor.
(Keep in mind that if one has a fully flooded cooling system with a properly operating water pump, thermostat, rad and for sure has system flow, then there is no cooling system problem per se.)
Your stat' check indicates no fault re that component.
Be sure to make a point of doing the sensor ohms range check all the way to rip roaring boil on the stove.
If the Ohmage range is duff, sure, go ahead and get a new one, and hopefully that solves the problem.
You have 85% + water, right?
For the cooling system cap to release, seeing as the cap is a 16 -20 psi rating, and there is still some EG in coolant, a coolant temp in excess of 250 F would be required.
I doubt a heat soak after a max engine case and engine oil temp run would get to 250 F, so I doubt the rad cap will be of valid insight, assuming the cap is still within spec.
By the way, referring to your gauge picture, I once got my gauge just about there too, on a track day in very hot conditions, with thin dry 3500 ft. altitude air, 75% water/25 % EG/WaterWetter.
The main straight was over a half mile long and the bike was hitting 135 mph before braking, so very high heat load for a fair bit of duration.
I didn't realize that I should have removed the fan for such a track and day, as the fan acts to reduce the effective rad area at high speeds.

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post #11 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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I'm beginning to get a sense that maybe your cooling system is actually OK and the gauge is just getting spooked by the sensor.

(Keep in mind that if one has a fully flooded cooling system with a properly operating water pump, thermostat, rad and for sure has system flow, then there is no cooling system problem per se.)

Your stat' check indicates no fault re that component.

Be sure to make a point of doing the sensor ohms range check all the way to rip roaring boil on the stove.

If the Ohmage range is duff, sure, go ahead and get a new one, and hopefully that solves the problem.

You have 85% + water, right?

For the cooling system cap to release, seeing as the cap is a 16 -20 psi rating, and there is still some EG in coolant, a coolant temp in excess of 250 F would be required.

I doubt a heat soak after a max engine case and engine oil temp run would get to 250 F, so I doubt the rad cap will be of valid insight, assuming the cap is still within spec.

By the way, referring to your gauge picture, I once got my gauge just about there too, on a track day in very hot conditions, with thin dry 3500 ft. altitude air, 75% water/25 % EG/WaterWetter.

The main straight was over a half mile long and the bike was hitting 135 mph before braking, so very high heat load for a fair bit of duration.

I didn't realize that I should have removed the fan for such a track and day, as the fan acts to reduce the effective rad area at high speeds.


Just went and bought a new multimeter to be sure. The temp sensor is way low on resistance.

Also keep in mind that picture is at idle with less than 70 degree Fahrenheit ambient temperature after coming off of a 60 mile interstate ride. No reason for it to be hot. The need got pretty much to the gap between the white and red when I was in traffic for approximately 1.5-2 mins.

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post #12 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 12:14 PM
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It's a long shot, but the 919 also has an oil cooler. From the looks of it, you can remove that. I'd check to make sure it doesn't have a bubble locked in or something blocking flow.
I've reviewed the oil and coolant schematics, plus eyeballed my bike moments ago.
While Honda calls it an Oil Cooler, it's more correctly viewed as being a oil temperature moderator.
As best as I can tell, the coolant slip stream to the item is continuous regardless of thermostat opening, and has no thermostatic control.
That being the case, the engine oil becomes a heat sink until its temp reaches that of the coolant, and actually gets warmed by the coolant until the temps equalize.
On cool low power days, the engine oil likely would never get above 180 without help, and on cold days my guess is a low as 165 F.
True, the cooling system will cool the engine oil above coolant temps of 205 F or so, but you'd be surprised what it takes to get engine oil beyond 205 F.
Interestingly enough, many years ago it was determined that 4 stroke liquid engines don't make max power until the oil temp is at least 205 F, for the simple reason that until then, too much heat energy is going into the oil and engine mass instead of making power at the piston.
Anyway, I don't think the gizmo should be removed or blocked off.
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post #13 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 12:16 PM
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Just went and bought a new multimeter to be sure. The temp sensor is way low on resistance.

Also keep in mind that picture is at idle with less than 70 degree Fahrenheit ambient temperature after coming off of a 60 mile interstate ride. No reason for it to be hot. The need got pretty much to the gap between the white and red when I was in traffic for approximately 1.5-2 mins.
I thinking more and more this is going to be a happy ending for you with only a sensor being needed to stop spooking the gauge.
I sure hope so!

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post #14 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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I thinking more and more this is going to be a happy ending for you with only a sensor being needed to stop spooking the gauge.

I sure hope so!


I just tested and as the water reached 200 degrees the resistance in the sensor went to zero. Iíll be looking for a new sensor this evening.

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post #15 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 03:56 PM
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If it doesn't go higher than the mark you posted, I wouldn't worry about it. My 919 does the same thing. It'll be halfway between c and the spot you showed, then like 30 seconds after stopping the bike to open the garage door, the needle will go to where you showed and fans will kick on, immediately lowering the temp. Am I misunderstanding something here?

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post #16 of 41 Old 05-03-2018, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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If it doesn't go higher than the mark you posted, I wouldn't worry about it. My 919 does the same thing. It'll be halfway between c and the spot you showed, then like 30 seconds after stopping the bike to open the garage door, the needle will go to where you showed and fans will kick on, immediately lowering the temp. Am I misunderstanding something here?

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Yes. You missed the part where I mentioned that it goes much higher than the pic.

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post #17 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 07:14 AM
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My 919 did the same thing. Gauge was almost to the red when the fan would come on.... But it had to be pretty hot out to get ANY movement out of the needle.



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post #18 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 07:29 AM
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When cutting the engine off the fan was still running, otherwise I wouldnít have.
Keep in mind that with the engine off, the fan running is only cooling whats in the radiator, but there is no pump running, so that cooler coolant just sits in the radiator.

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post #19 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 02:32 PM
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Keep in mind that with the engine off, the fan running is only cooling whats in the radiator, but there is no pump running, so that cooler coolant just sits in the radiator.
Good point. I didn't want to argue the point, but the general rule is don't shut off an engine when it's hot. Even if you have to spray some water on the rad to bring it down some.
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post #20 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 02:49 PM
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Good point. I didn't want to argue the point, but the general rule is don't shut off an engine when it's hot. Even if you have to spray some water on the rad to bring it down some.
This not the big deal it used to be.
Between modern elastomers re hoses and belts, the advent of fuel injection, and compacted & aero enhanced design, underhood temps of cars are extremely high as compared to years ago and won't vapour lock.
My thinking is that if an engine has been worked hard for a period of time at high to max power levels, there's many pounds of thermal mass well above 250 F that will hot soak the coolant and letting the engine idle a while with the fan(s) on makes sense.
BUT
If you have a track day bike and have removed the fan to increase the effective rad area at high speed, idling a hot bike with no rad fan is not a good idea.
For normal riding of a 919, one should simply turn it off when the ride is over.

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post #21 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Cooling Problem

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Keep in mind that with the engine off, the fan running is only cooling whats in the radiator, but there is no pump running, so that cooler coolant just sits in the radiator.
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Good point. I didn't want to argue the point, but the general rule is don't shut off an engine when it's hot. Even if you have to spray some water on the rad to bring it down some.





Those are very good points, but when your needle is rapidly approaching or even at the redline and youíre stuck in Nashville traffic with no exit in sight, Iíd ask if anyone has a better resolution. I felt like not generating more heat was the best solution to minimize damage to the engine. I really had lost hope of making it to my destination. Itís a huge sigh of relief to know that it was a faulty sensor.

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post #22 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 05:43 PM
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Those are very good points, but when your needle is rapidly approaching or even at the redline and you’re stuck in Nashville traffic with no exit in sight, I’d ask if anyone has a better resolution. I felt like not generating more heat was the best solution to minimize damage to the engine. I really had lost hope of making it to my destination. It’s a huge sigh of relief to know that it was a faulty sensor.
You did the right thing considering what you were seeing and had to trust at the time.

Also, what does "hot" mean to whomever?
In my book, "hot" means the entire engine mass as hot as it normally gets, ditto re the coolant.
Beyond hot is overheated.

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post #23 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 05:52 PM
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Those are very good points, but when your needle is rapidly approaching or even at the redline and youíre stuck in Nashville traffic with no exit in sight, Iíd ask if anyone has a better resolution. I felt like not generating more heat was the best solution to minimize damage to the engine. I really had lost hope of making it to my destination. Itís a huge sigh of relief to know that it was a faulty sensor.
This is one of the reasons we have lane splitting in California. The solution is to split the lanes, but I guess your laws are outdated. I understand CA did it because of CHiP has a lot of motorcycles and they were air cooled and were a "110+" on the black top all summer kinda place.

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post #24 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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This is one of the reasons we have lane splitting in California. The solution is to split the lanes, but I guess your laws are outdated. I understand CA did it because of CHiP has a lot of motorcycles and they were air cooled and were a "110+" on the black top all summer kinda place.


Haha. I guess 49 states laws are outdated. Isnít CA the only state where Ďfilteringí is legal?

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post #25 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 07:06 PM
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Haha. I guess 49 states laws are outdated. Isnít CA the only state where Ďfilteringí is legal?
That's what I understand. I don't know why you guys don't stand up and do something. CA just made it official not long ago. It used to be legal because there was no law against it, not it's actually a law.

I can tell you it's really awesome to cut to the front of the line at red lights. I do it all the time, unless there's no room. It must suck to wait in line.

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post #26 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I understand. I don't know why you guys don't stand up and do something. CA just made it official not long ago. It used to be legal because there was no law against it, not it's actually a law.



I can tell you it's really awesome to cut to the front of the line at red lights. I do it all the time, unless there's no room. It must suck to wait in line.


Oh yeah. Iím actually jealous. I see a lot of people on YouTube who ride like dicks while lane splitting, but I believe it could be done safely and responsibly.

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post #27 of 41 Old 05-04-2018, 07:38 PM
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Oh yeah. Iím actually jealous. I see a lot of people on YouTube who ride like dicks while lane splitting, but I believe it could be done safely and responsibly.
It's not supposed to be done all the time. I think it's < 30 mph or something like that, but I see people do it on the freeway at full speed. I use it all the time if there's space, but I use it for getting to the front of the line at a red light.

I haven't driven a car in several years now, everything is so much quicker on the bike.

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post #28 of 41 Old 05-07-2018, 04:36 PM
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It's for speeds under 40MPH and only a speed difference of 10-15 mph i believe. Basically it's the just 49 states that don't allow lane splitting. Every other country in the world practically encourages it. It's one of those things where if you don't do it, you hate everyone who does, and if you do, you never wanna give it up. It's not legal in my state, but nobody has problems if done responsibly, even passing cops. It's just the angry people that try to open doors on you or squeeze you into another car that is bothersome, but you'll get that anywhere, even in countries where it's explicitly legal.

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post #29 of 41 Old 05-07-2018, 04:48 PM
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It's for speeds under 40MPH and only a speed difference of 10-15 mph i believe. Basically it's the just 49 states that don't allow lane splitting. Every other country in the world practically encourages it. It's one of those things where if you don't do it, you hate everyone who does, and if you do, you never wanna give it up. It's not legal in my state, but nobody has problems if done responsibly, even passing cops. It's just the angry people that try to open doors on you or squeeze you into another car that is bothersome, but you'll get that anywhere, even in countries where it's explicitly legal.
There was a study years ago that proved it was safer because you weren't in the "kill zone".

... and there's always this...

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post #30 of 41 Old 05-07-2018, 04:57 PM
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Motorcycles aren't cars, so I don't understand why motorcycles should have to abide by laws designed for cars when it is inconvenient or even dangerous for them to do so. To be quite honest, the longer I ride the more I lean to never riding on the street all together and sticking to track days.

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post #31 of 41 Old 05-09-2018, 04:00 AM
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When you filled the system, did you fill through the radiator cap (under the tank)? There have been a few cases over the years where people fill the system from the overflow tank and end up with a big air pocket in the system with similar symptoms as yours.

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post #32 of 41 Old 05-09-2018, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
When you filled the system, did you fill through the radiator cap (under the tank)? There have been a few cases over the years where people fill the system from the overflow tank and end up with a big air pocket in the system with similar symptoms as yours.


From the cap.

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post #33 of 41 Old 05-17-2018, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Update on the problem, Iím still not 100% convinced that I have it fixed. Iíve replaced basically everything in the cooling system. Radiator, thermostat, radiator cap, inspected water pump, changed coolant multiple times, ran with pure water, tried water wetter, etc.

I replaced the ETC based on the testing in the service manual but the picture it shows is actually the incorrect way to test the resistance. Now I have two good ETC sensors. I tested the gauge as shown in the manual and it makes a full sweep to the ĎHí mark.

I just donít remember the bike running at these temps last year. These pictures were taken while idling after a 20 minute ride down the interstate.





Someone tell me this is normal and Iíll leave it alone. Iím ready to go buy a Tuono at this point.

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post #34 of 41 Old 05-17-2018, 01:17 PM
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I think you are right. Your bike does seem to be getting hot fast. I see from your other post you have done a lot of work. I wonder if your bike for some reason is running very lean? Its a strange one.
Now I know this doesn't explain why you bike heats up so fast but is the cooling fan on when it is that hot?

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post #35 of 41 Old 05-17-2018, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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I think you are right. Your bike does seem to be getting hot fast. I see from your other post you have done a lot of work. I wonder if your bike for some reason is running very lean? Its a strange one.
Now I know this doesn't explain why you bike heats up so fast but is the cooling fan on when it is that hot?


Yes. The fan seems to be doing its job as intended. I had everything apart today for a final inspection and flush. After I buttoned everything back up I took it out for about 50 miles and it seemed to do pretty well. Iím done working on it. I will ride it and monitor the situation closely.

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post #36 of 41 Old 05-17-2018, 06:56 PM
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You seem to have skipped something. Have you actually confirmed what the temp actually is? IDK what that mark on the gauge means in F on the rad, but it should be too hard for someone to check.

I don't plan a ride tonight (yet) but I can bring my IR gauge with me and do a check at the Rad. I'm not sure the best point to test, probably a bare metal part of the rad or a selected part of the engine outside of the the TStat.

From the sounds of it, you might have something that's broken off in the system or too much scale. Maybe remove the TStat and pump some acidic water thru the system in the reverse direction.

It's an older trick, but basically you have an ice cold engine, you remove the TStat and shove the hose into the system the wrong direction and let if flow. With a bike, you can bounce and rock the engine. You can also find places to open the engine to see if you can get flow in places where stuff settles.


I remember Fords from the 60's and 70's that adjusted the timing to address idle heat up. IDK what all is adjustable on these, but maybe check the timing and fuel, the O2 Sensor is > 10 years old, maybe it's giving an off reading causing bad fuel mix. There's also the sensor in the coolant and air box IIRC.

Maybe checking the color of the plugs... IIRC, white or white/grey is lean and I think lean is what caused more heat.

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post #37 of 41 Old 05-18-2018, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You seem to have skipped something. Have you actually confirmed what the temp actually is? IDK what that mark on the gauge means in F on the rad, but it should be too hard for someone to check.



I don't plan a ride tonight (yet) but I can bring my IR gauge with me and do a check at the Rad. I'm not sure the best point to test, probably a bare metal part of the rad or a selected part of the engine outside of the the TStat.



From the sounds of it, you might have something that's broken off in the system or too much scale. Maybe remove the TStat and pump some acidic water thru the system in the reverse direction.



It's an older trick, but basically you have an ice cold engine, you remove the TStat and shove the hose into the system the wrong direction and let if flow. With a bike, you can bounce and rock the engine. You can also find places to open the engine to see if you can get flow in places where stuff settles.





I remember Fords from the 60's and 70's that adjusted the timing to address idle heat up. IDK what all is adjustable on these, but maybe check the timing and fuel, the O2 Sensor is > 10 years old, maybe it's giving an off reading causing bad fuel mix. There's also the sensor in the coolant and air box IIRC.



Maybe checking the color of the plugs... IIRC, white or white/grey is lean and I think lean is what caused more heat.


If someone could check the temp of their bike that would be amazing. Iíve hit this thing 100 times with my IR thermometer but I canít find a standard to compare to. The highest temp Iíve read is 205. Iíve checked the thermostat housing, radiator hoses, all points of the radiator, water pump housing, etc.

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post #38 of 41 Old 05-19-2018, 02:30 PM
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So went for a 20min hard ride. First pic is straight after ride at idle. Second pic is one minute after ride at idle. Third pic is when fan cut in, several minutes at idle. Engine didn't get any hotter after fan cut in. The temp actually went down a bit.
My bike used to get hot faster but I'm running a very rich map and I have modified the bikes air intake. It's also autumn here.
The fan never cuts in when my bike is moving.
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post #39 of 41 Old 05-19-2018, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
So went for a 20min hard ride. First pic is straight after ride at idle. Second pic is one minute after ride at idle. Third pic is when fan cut in, several minutes at idle. Engine didn't get any hotter after fan cut in. The temp actually went down a bit.
My bike used to get hot faster but I'm running a very rich map and I have modified the bikes air intake. It's also autumn here.
The fan never cuts in when my bike is moving.


Thank you very much for your help Islandboy! What was the ambient temperature when you were letting it idle? I feel very much at peace with how the bike is acting now.

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post #40 of 41 Old 05-19-2018, 05:59 PM
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Ambient temp at idle was 16 degrees celsius.
Over summer it did get hotter faster, ambient temp around 30 degrees celsius.
My bike did get hotter faster when running the stock air intake and when running a lean fuel map. Got a bit hotter as well.
I'm also running silicon coolant hoses. Supposed to run cooler with those but I think that is a crock of shit.
I will add I never hit traffic here, no lights etc. But I got my bike from a big city. The bike turned up with obvious signs of getting really hot. The plastic radiator guard was melted above the headers. Also the fan was melted on one side. Very hot.
I've never liked where the air intake snorkel draws air from, right above a hot exhaust pipe. Surely when not moving and little wind it must be taking in preheated air? I first cut my snorkel down and later made a velocity stack. Made a difference.

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