Continued leaking fork seal - Wrist Twisters
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
No 10
 
insideleft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Purgetory
Posts: 34
Rep Power: 1
 
Continued leaking fork seal

I ()got my forks rebuilt a year ago or so - the suspension specialist altered the fork oil level to 110mm from the top, with springs out and fork depressed.

I () sold that bike for a newer 2007 hornet and changed the forks because the older one's had high quality springs, gold seals etc...

Two weeks after changing the forks, the left fork seal began leaking.

1) Changed both seals - 110mm fork oil - the left fork seal leaked again after two-weeks

2) Same as 1, leaked again.

3) Went to the shop, a trusted bike mechanic, who put new seals in, but only filled the fork oil to the factory level of around 140/150mm - to see if the 110 level was creating too much pressure for the seal to handle.

The bike 'suspension' mechanic (not the bike mechanic) had also advised used 5 dot fork oil because of the gold seals and we have persisted with this amount.

the left seal is now leaking again -

Mechanic's suggestion is to replace the upper fork, chromed, section - but he cannot say that this is actually the problem - $380 Australian and it may not be the issue - mechanic says he's never encountered this issue before.

A friend has suggested seeing if the bottom fork section has, somehow, become less circular and is, therefore, warping the seal.

I am beginning to pull my hair out with this ongoing guessing -

Anyone had, or know of similar calamities as this and what was done to problem-solve and eventually resolve such and issue ?

No10

No10
insideleft is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 01:59 PM
Community Moderator
 
g00gl3it's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,616
Rep Power: 1
  

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 3

If you've put multiple seals on and it's still leaking, they you either have pitted tubes or bent tubes.

Time to look into that.

2009 Aprilia Tuono - Ginger
2001 XR650R BRP (Big Red Pig)
2006 Honda 599 - Ex wrecked it :-D
2007 Honda CB900F (sold)
2006 Honda VTX 1300C (sold)
YouTube Channel
g00gl3it is offline  
post #3 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 02:32 PM
GLG-20
 
Superdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,364
Rep Power: 1
 
Garage
Excessive play could be a factor too, if the tubes look good. Did the bushings get replaced? Something else to consider if the other stuff checks out.

'96 DR650, '01 SV650, '10 Aprilia Tuono 1000R
Superdog is online now  
 
post #4 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
No 10
 
insideleft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Purgetory
Posts: 34
Rep Power: 1
 
The mechanic's suggestion to replace the upper tube of the fork seems to coincide with the bent tube idea.

The tube is pitted, but far's I can see, only very high up the tube.

The bushes were replaced with the first set of seal replacements.

No10
insideleft is offline  
post #5 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 06:02 PM
Tirone Choolaces
 
marylandmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 11,147
Rep Power: 1
 
Garage

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Donation Donation 
Total Awards: 3

Did you buy these forks from Wolf?

marylandmike is offline  
post #6 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 06:47 PM
`
 
zaq123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: here n' there
Posts: 3,842
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 17

Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
If you've put multiple seals on and it's still leaking, they you either have pitted tubes or bent tubes. Time to look into that.
or if seals were not installed properly. Did they use lubed condom looking gizmo on fork tubes while sliding the seal?

zaq123 is offline  
post #7 of 18 Old 02-28-2014, 07:39 PM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,789
Rep Power: 1
 
Seriously, what kind of seals have been fitted ?
OEM?
Or aftermarket ?
919s stock forks are known to be super dry past seals, too good if anything.
So IF it's a properly installed OEM still in good shape, it should be dry as a bone.
It's mechanicals and/or seal.
By the way, 110 is a high oil height.
Sure, there will be a range of opinions, but it's not lost on me that the Racetech build instruction sheet I got said go 140, and the local whiz I go to suggested 125 and sort of implied that was the upper limit. What are you trying to derive from using 110 ?

mcromo44 is offline  
post #8 of 18 Old 03-01-2014, 01:40 PM
Aquilifer
 
rpcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,128
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Did you buy these forks from Wolf?

LOL........ Sound the alarm!!!!

Rob C

88 Blue Hawk (NT650) Project Pics - http://tinyurl.com/clw8h3q
2000 DL650 - Being ridden but make me an offer if interested...
2002 DL1000 V-Strom
rpcraft is offline  
post #9 of 18 Old 03-01-2014, 08:22 PM
Community Moderator
 
g00gl3it's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,616
Rep Power: 1
  

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 3

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcraft View Post
LOL........ Sound the alarm!!!!
What, you mean cry "wolf"?

2009 Aprilia Tuono - Ginger
2001 XR650R BRP (Big Red Pig)
2006 Honda 599 - Ex wrecked it :-D
2007 Honda CB900F (sold)
2006 Honda VTX 1300C (sold)
YouTube Channel
g00gl3it is offline  
post #10 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 02:23 AM
Centurion
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,310
Rep Power: 1
 
A decent wrench will be able to measure the roundness of the leg. If its round replace the seals with OEM ones. Grease them before fitting and re-grease them every few thousand ks. Fork seals are not a fit and forget deal. Regular greasing will make them last and keep you forks working properly.

NZspokes is offline  
post #11 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 04:05 AM
Road Pilot
 
Wolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,366
Rep Power: 1
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Did you buy these forks from Wolf?
Low blow
Wolf is offline  
post #12 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 07:55 AM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,789
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NZspokes View Post
re-grease them every few thousand ks. Fork seals are not a fit and forget deal. Regular greasing will make them last and keep you forks working properly.
Regrease what and how ?
Between the dust seal and the hydraulic seal ?
Between the two lips of the hydraulic seal ?

For sure the area between the lips of the hydraulic seal needs to be grease at installation.
919 seals seem quite insensitive to care.
Rickard has a set with original factory fill oil, something like 80,000 km or miles on them, I can't remember which, and they are bone dry.
Meanwhile, I clean my tubes before every ride, and they are bone dry.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #13 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 08:01 AM
Burn-em Upus Asphaltus
 
rickard919's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 3,802
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Donation 
Total Awards: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post

Regrease what and how ?
Between the dust seal and the hydraulic seal ?
Between the two lips of the hydraulic seal ?

For sure the area between the lips of the hydraulic seal needs to be grease at installation.
919 seals seem quite insensitive to care.
Rickard has a set with original factory fill oil, something like 80,000 km or miles on them, I can't remember which, and they are bone dry.
Meanwhile, I clean my tubes before every ride, and they are bone dry.
Miles, 80k mikes. Never had a leak, hint of sweat or anything. I abused those things.

Spoiler:

rickard919 is offline  
post #14 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 10:41 AM
Centurion
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,310
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Regrease what and how ?
Between the dust seal and the hydraulic seal ?
Between the two lips of the hydraulic seal ?

For sure the area between the lips of the hydraulic seal needs to be grease at installation.
919 seals seem quite insensitive to care.
Rickard has a set with original factory fill oil, something like 80,000 km or miles on them, I can't remember which, and they are bone dry.
Meanwhile, I clean my tubes before every ride, and they are bone dry.
Hydraulic seal. Didnt you say you have sticton problems?

Procedure is, clean fork stauntion. Lift the dust seal. Clean under the dust seal above the oil seal. Get a lite dab of grease, quality axle grease seems to work best and run it round the area above the oil seal. Gently push down on the bars a few mm so you get a nice grease ring just above the seal. Then holding the front brake slam down on the bars as hard as you can. This causes the seal to flair and it grabs the grease. Wipe up residue and refit dust seal. Done. 5 min job that stops seal chatter.

If you look at a fork and see little rings of rubber on the stauntion just above the seal or you push down on the fork and its very slow to return (assuming you dont have stupid amounts of rebound adjustment set) then you need to grease the fork seal.

NZspokes is offline  
post #15 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 11:58 AM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,789
Rep Power: 1
 
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by NZspokes View Post
Hydraulic seal. Didnt you say you have sticton problems?

Procedure is, clean fork stauntion. Lift the dust seal. Clean under the dust seal above the oil seal. Get a lite dab of grease, quality axle grease seems to work best and run it round the area above the oil seal. Gently push down on the bars a few mm so you get a nice grease ring just above the seal. Then holding the front brake slam down on the bars as hard as you can. This causes the seal to flair and it grabs the grease. Wipe up residue and refit dust seal. Done. 5 min job that stops seal chatter.

If you look at a fork and see little rings of rubber on the stauntion just above the seal or you push down on the fork and its very slow to return (assuming you dont have stupid amounts of rebound adjustment set) then you need to grease the fork seal.
Thanks for the added info.
I'm going to try it.
When it's not -25 C in the garage that is............

mcromo44 is offline  
post #16 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
No 10
 
insideleft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Purgetory
Posts: 34
Rep Power: 1
 
I'll try the grease idea, thanks.

The 110 height was recommended by the suspension specialist - I had the same leaking reaction at that height and the recently adjusted workshop manual height.

A friend will check the roundness of the upper fork tube, also suggesting this may be the problem - bike mechanic believes this is the only thing that can be a problem, that for some reason, the upper fork tube has become out out shape.

The right fork has remained not-leaking throughout all of the above, so it seems not to be the fork oil height, the seal type, the installation methods or anything else I can think of or that has been suggested above.

I'll fill you in on the greased fork tube.

No10

No10
insideleft is offline  
post #17 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 12:04 PM
Centurion
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,310
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
When it's not -25 C in the garage that is............
Dont think my freezer even goes that cold.

About 75 here at 9 in the morning.

NZspokes is offline  
post #18 of 18 Old 03-02-2014, 12:07 PM
Centurion
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,310
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by insideleft View Post
I'll try the grease idea, thanks.

The 110 height was recommended by the suspension specialist - I had the same leaking reaction at that height and the recently adjusted workshop manual height.

A friend will check the roundness of the upper fork tube, also suggesting this may be the problem - bike mechanic believes this is the only thing that can be a problem, that for some reason, the upper fork tube has become out out shape.

The right fork has remained not-leaking throughout all of the above, so it seems not to be the fork oil height, the seal type, the installation methods or anything else I can think of or that has been suggested above.

I'll fill you in on the greased fork tube.

No10
Sorry, grease wont help a damaged seal or out of round stuntion.

NZspokes is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wrist Twisters forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome