Clutch adjustment question - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-10-2014, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch adjustment question

I've noticed that I have a really hard time getting the cable adjusted just right for optimal clutch actuation. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the lever free there should a tiny bit of play, ie the cable shouldn't have tension on it when fully released. However, if it's not tight enough then I have a really hard time getting into neutral when stopped, as if the clutch isn't disengaged fully enough. On top of this, I have adjustable levers, but I have to keep them on one of the two settings that keeps them furthest out, otherwise there definitely isn't enough pull distance to fully disengage the clutch.
Am I doing something wrong, or is this a symptom of cheap levers?

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post #2 of 9 Old 03-10-2014, 06:54 PM
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Search for clutch adjustment there is a pretty slick trick using a quarter I used this when I put my cheapo Chinese adjustable levers on

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-10-2014, 08:25 PM
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Remember, you have 2 adjustment locations. 1 at the clutch lever and 1 down at the clutch casing. You can only adjust at the clutch lever so much before you need to adjust down at the clutch casing. Be sure to check the adjustment there as well.

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post #4 of 9 Old 03-10-2014, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses guys, I'll set it up with the quarter trick tomorrow. I think my main problem is that when I have it set with the proper play I have a really hard time getting into neutral at lights. If I set it taught (no play) then I can more easily shift into neutral with the lever pulled in, though that's still only with the lever set in it's furthest settings (6 or 7).
I feel like excessive travel of the cable is necessary to fully disengage my clutch. I'm coming from zero experience though (this is my first bike and I've only been riding for just over a year).

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-11-2014, 02:48 AM
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Sometimes difficult shifting can be a symptom of the bike needing an oil change. I know when my 9'er strats missing shifts or even just feels less smooth in shifting it's time to change the oil. Usually once a year at least depending on how much I've ridden.

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post #6 of 9 Old 03-11-2014, 06:37 AM
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If you still have the oem clutch lever put it back on, adjust the free play, and see if neutral can be selected easily -- if so the aftermarket lever is not allowing enough travel and should not be used. As long as you can still reach the clutch lever comfortably I'd say use it. If not there is an issue with the clutch that should be addressed.

Remember that selecting neutral is not the only problem if the clutch is dragging with the lever pulled to the grip: shifting into first already causes a significant clunk with a fully disengaged clutch -- if it is dragging it may engage first heavily enough to damage the engagement dogs, eventually requiring a transmission teardown for repair: the last thing you want!

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-12-2014, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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OK, well one problem I was having was that I was at the end of the threads on both adjustment points (fully extended). I think my cable gained a little bit of length because it snapped a while back and I had it repaired. I took care of that today by adding two little split washers to the lower end as spacers (see 1st pic below). The end still sits securely in the catch, but it added just enough length to allow for my upper adjustment not to be threaded so far out. I'll get a new cable to replace it though.

Unfortunately I don't have a stock lever to test. As long as these are set farther out (5, 6, or 7 setting) and free play is set minimal (quarter slides in with the lightest of pressure on the lever, dime will fit in without any) the bike will roll backwards easily in gear with the lever pulled all the way in, so I don't think it's dragging.

In the 7 setting on the lever neutral is pretty easy to find, but I hate the point of full engagement being so far out; it makes for more difficult take-offs and less smooth shifts. Maybe I'd get used to it though. I'm going to change the oil tomorrow to see if that helps with the getting into neutral issue at all; I'm due for it anyway.

Thanks again for the input everyone. Hey Rob, you have any bars to sell?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cable end.jpg (314.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg lever.jpg (278.6 KB, 10 views)

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post #8 of 9 Old 03-13-2014, 01:53 AM
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Time for a new cable I'd say...

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post #9 of 9 Old 03-13-2014, 03:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Time for a new cable I'd say...
+1 you don't want that cable to let go, replace it

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