Chain pull at 3:00 and wiggle amount. - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-27-2017, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Chain pull at 3:00 and wiggle amount.

Someone posted about pulling a chain at 3 o'clock position and not being able to see thru the sprocket. IIRC, someone else talked about "side to side" wiggle on the rear under load @ 3 o'clock.

Can anyone give some real numbers? I just cleaned and oiled and adjusted mine, she was way out of adjustment.

How often do you have to adjust you chain? Seems like it should be only after it's worn quite a bit, but I'm adjusting mine about every time I oil.

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 06:26 AM
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My chain used to need frequent adjustments. Engine torque was "pulling" the rear sprocket closet to the front sprocket. Twisting the rear axle slightly out of alignment. Even though axle nut was at correct torque. I used Mcromo44's tip on putting the adjustment bolts on opposite lock to each other. Against the "pull" on the rear axle. The left bolt (sprocket side) holding the axle back and the right hand bolt holding the axle forward. Never had the chain go out of adjust since.

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
My chain used to need frequent adjustments. Engine torque was "pulling" the rear sprocket closet to the front sprocket. Twisting the rear axle slightly out of alignment. Even though axle nut was at correct torque. I used Mcromo44's tip on putting the adjustment bolts on opposite lock to each other. Against the "pull" on the rear axle. The left bolt (sprocket side) holding the axle back and the right hand bolt holding the axle forward. Never had the chain go out of adjust since.
I missed that part of that thread, so the left would be lock the axle from going forward and the right would lock it from going backwards to prevent twist.

This last one really shocked me as it was off about 3/4 inch (chain slack @ center) and I just adjusted about a month ago.

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 09:18 AM
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Yeah. Sprocket side adjuster bolt is "pulling " on axle and right brake side bolt is "pushing" on axle. The trick is to set bolts like this after chain is adjusted to correct tightness and axle nut is torqued up. Set left bolt out firm. Then wind right bolt in and set firm. There's a small gap in the adjustment bolt head that needs to take up. Hope that's all as clear as mud!
I also found my chain going out of adjustment a similar amount, often. Frustrating to have to redo all the time. My chain hasn't come loose again since setting bolts this way. Also when chain comes loose like that doesn't it mean we are riding around with a rear wheel out of alignment?
I pretty much run my eye over those bolts every time I climb on the bike, as they can come loose. I'm careful not strip them when setting tight. I wish they didn't have such a big gap in the part that sits in that adjuster cradle. Probably a reason for it. That little gap is part of the problem me thinks. With both adjuster bolts set to "pull" that gap allows the right (brake) side of the axle to be forced back at least the distance of the gap, maybe eighth of inch. To sum up, when rear axle nut is set to correct torque there is a tendency for the rear axle to be pulled out of alignment due to engine torque. This can be prevented by setting adjuster bolts accordingly.
Good luck. Post an update after trying as I'd like to know if it works for ya. Took me a little bit to get right. It sort of felt wrong somehow to set right side bolt like the first time. Cheers.

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 11:13 AM
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nice tip and tricks for this. I might give it a try.

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 01:46 PM
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I'll echo that, I think it was my thread. Was having some [email protected]#$#% blasted chain issues and there was no reason for it. Two things I've done: 1. Counterlock the adjustment bolts as described 2. lube religiously (@marylandmike TWSS?)
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Someone posted about pulling a chain at 3 o'clock position and not being able to see thru the sprocket. IIRC, someone else talked about "side to side" wiggle on the rear under load @ 3 o'clock.

Can anyone give some real numbers? I just cleaned and oiled and adjusted mine, she was way out of adjustment.

How often do you have to adjust you chain? Seems like it should be only after it's worn quite a bit, but I'm adjusting mine about every time I oil.
Hi KarlJay,

Yes about 3 o'clock pull and not able to see through.

I think a side to side slop check is better done under no load, and very distinct movement means excessive wear and/or mismatched chain/sprocket widths.

The only "numbers" I have ever seen are chain stretch based, and the other thread you referred to had numbers in it.

If you have to adjust at every lube, and you lube frequency is short, let's say anything at or below 500 miles, screams out to me a list of possible ills:
Rear wheel movement in the slots.
Fast degrading chain and / or sprocket(s).
Poor lube.
Loss of lube from wet riding (another poor lube element)
Your later post in this thread about 3/4 inch droop adjustment being needed to me is more suggestive of rear wheel movement than wear.
But if it is from accelerated (very rapid) wear, I suggest that disaster looms.
Hopefully this helps you along.

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post #8 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
I missed that part of that thread, so the left would be lock the axle from going forward and the right would lock it from going backwards to prevent twist.

This last one really shocked me as it was off about 3/4 inch (chain slack @ center) and I just adjusted about a month ago.
Something else to keep in mind.
The drive side of the swingarm can get lube on the mating surfaces where the axle clamps, from lube creep.
The brake side can get it from oiled axle threads by the oil creeping.
Part of rear wheel position retention is to make sure every surface of the stack is dry, as in no lube film.
As in both slides of the swing arm slots, adjusters, and the spacers.
And the axle bolt end flange, plus the threads, washer, and nut.
Lubes can really creep over time.
Amazingly so, in some cases.
Do not lube the axle threads, washer or nut.
"Dry" is your friend in this case.

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post #9 of 10 Old 09-28-2017, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knicholas View Post
I'll echo that, I think it was my thread. Was having some [email protected]#$#% blasted chain issues and there was no reason for it. Two things I've done: 1. Counterlock the adjustment bolts as described 2. lube religiously (@marylandmike TWSS?)
How about pulling that up for KarlJay.
There was some good numbers stuff in that thread.

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post #10 of 10 Old 09-29-2017, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
How about pulling that up for KarlJay.
There was some good numbers stuff in that thread.

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