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Chain and Sprockets Install-Novice Notes

3K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  Pacojerte 
#1 ·
Just did my first chain and sprockets replacement, so I thought I'd offer a few observations. Ideally, some of the more experienced members will ring in and correct me if necessary before someone takes my opinions seriously.

1) The shop manual: The only real irritating part of the manual for this exercise is that it explicitly states that Honda uses a master link chain. I looked at 1,140 links (114 stock chain links X OCD factor of 10) before finally coming to back to this site and determining that not all chains have master links. Thanks to Barton664 (AGAIN!!!!!) for guidance.

2) 114 vs 112 links, overall gearing:I went with 114 links and 16/43. As a novice with less than a year in the saddle (~3500 miles), I am still building my skills foundation--I want an extremely solid base so that as i start my more serious mods, I will understand the changes. Man, I love this f***ing machine.

3) Motion Pro Jumbo Chain Tool Part #08-0135 and some sort of caliper: Yes, dammit, I stuck a crowbar into my wallet and bought the tools for this job. There is no turning back now--- I am always going to be around motorcycles, kids will be getting dirt bikes soon (don't tell them yet), somebody else may need help, etc. The Jumbo will break a chain as well as do the rivits. The caliper is used twice during installation of the master link: you measure the amount pins are pushed through during setting of the sideplate and diameter of the rivit as it set during staking. For setting the sideplate, I measured the width of the chain and then set the caliper 0.050" above this point and then checked the pins repeatedly until they brushed the caliper like gapping a sparkplug. For staking, I set the caliper to 0.222" and then kept checking as I tightened down on the ol' Jumbo. If you are patient, the rivits will look just like in the manual (I will post a picture tomorrow-our camera sucks ass at night photography).




4) For those who debate whether or not to change sprockets with chain: I bought this bike used and the previous owner documented everything. Near as I can tell, he got 20K miles out of chain and sprockets. Here is a side by side comparision of old vs new for driving gear and driven gear after a ton of miles (I will look at these pictures once they are posted-if they stink on ice, I will try to replace them). The choice is yours:





As always, I could not have done this without you all. Mike Wheeler (LDH) at Dan Kyle and my boy Barton664 are fantastic.

Jon
 
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#10 ·
Stop the presses!

Thank you for the kind words everybody, but I will have to put the kudos into escrow, not to be released until this job is done right.

Between the fact I was working at night and the crappy photography, I didn't clearly see that there was an o-ring on the right pin of the master link that was starting to push out. I put a bunch of miles on the bike and then saw it when I checked the chain. You can make it out on the crappy picture if you are really looking for it.

Hopefully, there are one or two spots where I made a rookie mistake, or screwed the pooch like a pro, depending upon your perspective. Then l can get it figured out and post the final chapter when the job is perfect so the next person can avoid the huge, throbbing, tumescent rubbery mass undulating in the breeze like mating whales that I have hanging off my otherwise perfectly beautiful new gold DID 530.

...(pause)...DANG IT!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Stop the presses!

Thank you for the kind words everybody, but I will have to put the kudos into escrow, not to be released until this job is done right.

...(pause)...DANG IT!
Ok all, I think we have it. Mike at Dan Kyle shipped me out a couple of master links and I modified my procedure in three ways:

1) The Motion Pro instructions read, "Flare the end of the master link pin to the mfr. spec. by tightening the body bolt. Repeat for the other master link pin." After speaking with LDH, I took his advice and flared both pins simultaneously working side to side and measuring throughout. The other two changes to my procedure are tweaks; this was the money step.

2) When staking, I previously measured the pin depth by difference. This time I rolled the master link to the back of the sprocket, and used the depth guage on the caliper, setting the caliper across the two pins



3) Pay close attention to feel. You will be staking the pins and flaring the rivits. After a certain point, the processes feel like constant resistance rather than progressive tightening like a nut and bolt. Eventually, you will have a pretty good idea how much you gain with each turn. MONITOR YOUR O-RINGS. I repeat: MONITOR YOUR O-RINGS. I rolled the master link out to the back of the sprocket to inspect O-rings and check measurements. Take a couple of measurements each time because they can vary as much as 0.003"-0.005"-if they are all in the ball park and the O-rings are good, take it and ride.

Here is the end-on view. I have road tested and we seem to be looking good after the first few runs.



As always, I apologize for my crappy pictures.
 
#14 ·
I didn't even notice the squished O-ring in the pic, but then again I wasn't really looking for it :)

As I told you on the phone it's all about feel and I didn't get my first one right either... In fact I have messed up a couple since then so many years ago. It happens. Like everything else in this world it takes experience to become proficient and you are on your way with a very steep learning curve. Additional master clips are cheap & only a phone call away bro!
 
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