chain and sprockets. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 34 Old 02-14-2013, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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chain and sprockets.

first time working on a 919 this winter, allready changed the clutch cable , front tire , brakes, going to be installing a new chain and sprockets next week. bought a D.I.D. ZVM-X 530 chain , new carbon steel sprockets, factory specs work fine for me 16/43, I am mechanically inclined and have all the tools I need , torque wrench , chain tool , manual , etc. just like to know if anyone has done this job on a 919 before , and if their is anything particular to the 919 I should know. I greatly appreciate any info.
thanks.

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post #2 of 34 Old 02-14-2013, 08:10 PM
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It's a straight forward job. It sounds like you're ready.
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post #3 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 04:26 PM
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hey there!

I believe I have the stock chain on my 04. I've never changed it anyway. (EDIT: Upon purchasing a new chain) Do you adjust the slack in the chain so that the Rear wheel is all the way "in" on the swing-arm, then as the chain gains slack throughout usage, you adjust the rear wheel out further?

Am I just insane, or is this on the right track....

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post #4 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 04:32 PM
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You're on the right track.

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post #5 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 04:43 PM
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That's how it works! Just be sure to keep your alignment straight when you adjust.

There are marks for a guide but it seems those aren't always accurate. There's the promotion alignment tool you clip onto the rear sprocket or you could google motorcycle string alignment

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post #6 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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I have been using a digital calipar to do my alignment , before and after the new chain , works really well , just use the inside measuring gauge up against the very back of the swing arm , then measure out to the end of the adjustment bracket , dead on every time.,
winter is starting to drag on hear in Ottawa , getting a little fidgidy.

come on SPRING !!!!!!!!!!!!.

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post #7 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamrdwn View Post
I have been using a digital calipar to do my alignment , before and after the new chain , works really well , just use the inside measuring gauge up against the very back of the swing arm , then measure out to the end of the adjustment bracket , dead on every time.,
winter is starting to drag on hear in Ottawa , getting a little fidgidy.

come on SPRING !!!!!!!!!!!!.
Sounds like a great idea, gonna give it a try.

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post #8 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 11:22 PM
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It works well. Thats what I've been doing for a couple of years.

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post #9 of 34 Old 02-22-2013, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamrdwn View Post
I have been using a digital calipar to do my alignment.
If you get ocd I don't recommend a digi-caliper

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post #10 of 34 Old 02-23-2013, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
If you get ocd I don't recommend a digi-caliper
so true ! I went a little nutty myself the first time i used the digi-cal, before i realized it is not possible to get both sides down to the same 100th of an inch,

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post #11 of 34 Old 02-23-2013, 12:59 PM
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Lol. I too use a caliper but its not digital. Works great and I actually measure rom the center of the rear axle to the center of the swing arm pivot bolt.

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post #12 of 34 Old 02-23-2013, 03:11 PM
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Thats how I've always done it. Measuring from the center axle nut to the swing arm bolt too. Sckill had mentioned a "string method" where you drape a string around the bike horizontally and measuring accordingly. I plan on trying this next time I have to align.

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post #13 of 34 Old 02-23-2013, 03:34 PM
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It's just not that critical to get the alignment that perfect guys... If it was the hash marks on the swingarm would be more accurate and/or the manufacturers would give us a better system of aligning the axle.

Some of you really make things way harder than they have to be and torque wrenches are for inside the motor not outside For example if you torque the rear axle nut to spec listed in the service manual then many times that pressure is so great that it causes the wheel bearings to be compressed into the spacer and it causes parasitic drag which makes it harder to spin the wheel than it would be if the axle nut was tightened by feel to the point where it starts to slow down the rotation of the wheel then backed off slightly and all while working to accelerate wear/tear on your bearings. Like everything else in the world that can be considered a profession there is a right way, a wrong way and the real way of doing things. I don't care of you are a mechanic, a programmer or a lawyer there are always written procedures that are intentionally disregarded in the interest of getting things done in a more proficient manner.

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post #14 of 34 Old 02-23-2013, 06:24 PM
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Check this tool out:
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ge...aligning_tool/


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post #15 of 34 Old 02-23-2013, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
It's just not that critical to get the alignment that perfect guys... If it was the hash marks on the swingarm would be more accurate and/or the manufacturers would give us a better system of aligning the axle.

Some of you really make things way harder than they have to be...
Have you seen the hash marks on the ninja 250's?! I've seen they off by as much as 1/4 of an inch!

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post #16 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 02:50 AM
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I spin the back wheel and watch the chain on the rear sprocket while adjusting one of the adjuster bolts. When the rear sprocket is centred in the chain, in my thinking anyways, the wheel is straight. The chain also sounds quieter when centred properly as well.
When I follow the hash marks on my bike, it veers left when I take my hands off the bars.

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post #17 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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originaly posted by LDH

Some of you really make things way harder than they have to be and torque wrenches are for inside the motor not outside For example if you torque the rear axle nut to spec listed in the service manual then many times that pressure is so great that it causes the wheel bearings to be compressed into the spacer and it causes parasitic drag which makes it harder to spin the wheel than it would be if the axle nut was tightened by feel to the point where it starts to slow down the rotation of the wheel then backed off slightly and all while working to accelerate wear/tear on your bearings. .[/QUOTE]

with all due respect to your skill and ability to tight'n nuts and bolts to what you feel to be adequate, for myself i need to know in my head that when I am drag'n a knee around a corner or doing 120 on the highway that nothing is going to jiggle loose or fall off, I have 30,000 k on the rear bearings so far , and I have no problem smokin the back tire with factory torque specs, just say,n

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post #18 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 07:41 AM
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yeah it is pretty straight forward. I wasted more time trying to push my damn axle bolt out than anything else I think LOL. Make sure you grease that thing up when you slide in back in.

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post #19 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
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.... Make sure you grease that thing up when you slide in back in.
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post #20 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 09:06 AM
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Or TWHS

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post #21 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Have you seen the hash marks on the ninja 250's?! I've seen they off by as much as 1/4 of an inch!
A lot of the hash marks are that far off. Have you ever heard of anyone crashing because of a rear wheel being misaligned? It's just not that critical.

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post #22 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamrdwn View Post



with all due respect to your skill and ability to tight'n nuts and bolts to what you feel to be adequate, for myself i need to know in my head that when I am drag'n a knee around a corner or doing 120 on the highway that nothing is going to jiggle loose or fall off, I have 30,000 k on the rear bearings so far , and I have no problem smokin the back tire with factory torque specs, just say,n

I am not the guy soliciting advise on whether I am capable of properly installing my own chain on a public web forum. If you can do it then do it. If you want to learn something then you might want to listen to the guy that is a professional mechanic, suspension tuner, test rider and track instructor trying to help you.

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post #23 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
A lot of the hash marks are that far off. Have you ever heard of anyone crashing because of a rear wheel being misaligned? It's just not that critical.
While you are right that it isn't mechanically critical, I can feel the added vibes when I use just the hash marks and it drives me crazy. Using the caliper takes less than an extra minute and I have no additional vibes.

I agree with you regarding the torque specs due to our previous discussion and testing it myself. I don't use the factory torque for the rear axle anymore. I've found that the rear axle snugs up nicely between 54 and 60 ft lbs. Haven't had any issues with axle movement either after so many miles and 2 track days.

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post #24 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 12:32 PM
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Isn't it a loaded stack in the hub anyways? The axle exerts pressure on the axle spacer, in turn on the inner races which then contacts the hub spacer? I can't see how the bearings would have undue stress put on them like this. There is no force applied to the outer bearing races. Maybe I'm wrong?

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post #25 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
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Isn't it a loaded stack in the hub anyways? The axle exerts pressure on the axle spacer, in turn on the inner races which then contacts the hub spacer? I can't see how the bearings would have undue stress put on them like this. There is no force applied to the outer bearing races. Maybe I'm wrong?
partially... ever take your rear tire off and bounce it and have the center spacer move... theres obviously a gap in there, and metal does compress slightly. I will agree with above.. the torque spec will likely overtorque it due to grease etc. Do it by feel.

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post #26 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
partially... ever take your rear tire off and bounce it and have the center spacer move... theres obviously a gap in there, and metal does compress slightly. I will agree with above.. the torque spec will likely overtorque it due to grease etc. Do it by feel.
Plus nobody ever sad the tolerances were exact

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post #27 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
...

Some of you really make things way harder than they have to be and torque wrenches are for inside the motor not outside ...
A hearty Amen to that.

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post #28 of 34 Old 02-24-2013, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate it . Thanks LDH I honestly would not have thought anything less than factory torque specs on the rear axle would be a good idea. ( learn something new everyday) I am still seeing how far I can push the 919, its a fun bike , but very different from what I am used too.

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post #29 of 34 Old 02-27-2013, 01:24 PM
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Are DID chains really the most superior product out there?

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post #30 of 34 Old 02-27-2013, 01:38 PM
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Yes

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post #31 of 34 Old 02-27-2013, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
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Yes
I totally forget man, which shop do you work @?

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post #32 of 34 Old 02-27-2013, 02:00 PM
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post #33 of 34 Old 02-27-2013, 10:04 PM
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There. Fixed that for you ...

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post #34 of 34 Old 02-27-2013, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
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There. Fixed that for you ...
Hahahaha

Do a chain install video too. Munching on does equis.

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