mcromo44, what is the ideal way to lubricate a chain? i just aim for the rollers and the o rings. i only blast the side plates after i de-lubed the chain so they have some sort of protective coating. I have a brand new chain that i did some off roading with, and it got covered in dust. I have to use degreaser on it and I'm just concerned that I will be removing the factory packed grease. My last chain only lasted me about 14k miles. 14k to me sounds fine considering the abuse it takes. I douse the chain every time the pins dont have a film of lube on them, or roughly every 100 miles. I usually only spray pointing from the back of the rear sprocket. Am I doing anything wrong?
That is an excellent question, but I don’t think a simple answer will serve all well, due to the two inherent camps of “Lean Stand Only” and “Centre or Race Stand”.
In addition, when it comes to questioning about lubing the chain, asking about cleaning really should be in the same breath.
(I’m deliberately not raising what lube is best, which is a debate in the same league as what engine oil is best.)
Short story, if one can’t get the rear wheel off the ground so it can be spun, then proper cleaning and lubing is a right royal pain in the backside. (As will be chain slack checking/setting/confirming.)
OK, enough of lead-in.
My recently revised practice for Major Post Cleaning Major Relubing is:
-chain warmed from a short ride.
-bike on (centre or) race stand.
-remove hugger.(combination chain guard and tire hugger)
-a 10 inch long or so piece of cardboard with two folds, such that the chain runs on the middle section, and the front and back flaps both tall enough to contain chain lube overspray.
-spin the wheel and make sure it is stays spinning when spraying.
-spray such that lube is directed down to get it between the inner and outer plates and between the plates and rollers. (this means a spray for “inboard”, and another for “outboard”)
-then a spray along the middle of the rollers.
-the holy grail of chain lubing is to do it on the inside of the run, so to satisfy that, after the above sprays, I do one along the middle of the rollers on the inside of the slack run.
-let it set up, the spray lube that is.
-wipe down the side plates of the wide links as best as you can to minimize dirt collecting there.(denim for old jeans is great for this)
I do my subsequent lube touch ups on the stand, and do a spray along the middle of the rollers on the inside of the slack run, then another one on the outside of the run on the rear sprocket.
Warm chain of course.
14,000 miles doesn’t sound very good for chain life.
Especially when one considers that most people change chains when they are well beyond a decent wear limit.
Mine has about 10 on it, has something like 2000 miles of track days on it, and while it’s worn some, it still have lots of life left.
For road riding, I’d be choked if I didn’t get 20 -25,000 miles out of a good chain that was well cared for.
Good chain lube should last longer than 100 miles, especially on dry pavement.