CB919 DIY push to pass. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-14-2012, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
Ian
 
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CB919 DIY push to pass.

So I have been thinking about swapping the control pods on my 919 for some other/newer style pods for awhile now. I was trolling ebay looking at pods and decided to go grab my spare L/H pod from the garage to compare to the cbr & gixxer ones I was looking at online.

Anyway on closer inspection I notice that the L/H 919 pod already has a blank spot on the forward face capped off with a blanking plug. It's well hidden and hard to notice. My '06 and '02 both have the same spot built right into the L/H pod. Pretty neat, check it out!






So the plan is to wire up a push to pass button in this blank spot. I went out and rummaged through the parts bins and found a horn button off an old Honda that will work nicely.

The headlight switch is right there in the same housing, so minimal wiring is need to be messed with. The 919 has a three wire switch for the headlight hi/low so all u need to do is jumper off the wires for the high beam and ground and run the push button between them

BTW... I run a 599 headlight with dual bulb's. The low beam circuit my 9'er is fed from a different circuit not the switch. I do not know how this will affect the 919 headlight. It should be fine and am pretty sure a member will chime in with a way to make this work on everyone's bike and a neat little switch that can be found to do it for cheap.

Updates to follow.

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post #2 of 16 Old 10-14-2012, 11:14 AM
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Very cool! I wonder if we can buy the OEM switch from a European site? I'll have to look into this...

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post #3 of 16 Old 10-14-2012, 11:23 AM
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Wow... That's a great find! I wonder what Rob could contribute to this topic.... PAGING ROB!

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post #4 of 16 Old 10-14-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Here are a few pics of the switch I have on hand that I will probably be using. It's a horn switch from an early 80's Honda. It's almost the perfect size.






I can't seem to find the Euro switch from the hornet online, you can buy the whole assembly but not the switch separately. I hope Rob has some input, the little micro switch he showed in his other pod thread would be sweet.

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post #5 of 16 Old 10-14-2012, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
I hope Rob has some input, the little micro switch he showed in his other pod thread would be sweet.
That was my thought exactly

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post #6 of 16 Old 10-14-2012, 01:35 PM
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good luck with push to pass up here,
more like how long can i block you for.
but a fun mod none the less.

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post #7 of 16 Old 10-15-2012, 12:47 PM
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So, I know what push to pass is on Indy cars, but what does that mean on a motorcycle?

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post #8 of 16 Old 10-15-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmelnick View Post
So, I know what push to pass is on Indy cars, but what does that mean on a motorcycle?
It's a little button like they have on vehicles in Europe that flashes your high beam when you press it so the person in front of you knows you want to pass and is SUPPOSED to move over for you. They do in Europe but here in the good ole USA it dog eat dog!

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post #9 of 16 Old 10-15-2012, 02:24 PM
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Here in the US it's sometimes misconstrued as giving up YOUR right of way (as in , letting someone know you see them and letting them merge in front of you).

So you have to be careful with it. Big cities understand it a bit better, but you won't get that same understanding out in the sticks. Flashing brights just means you are out to tick somebody off

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post #10 of 16 Old 10-15-2012, 03:24 PM
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My non-US spec '03 already has one, but it doesn't get much use. It's got a kind of lever shape to it, a bit like the starter switch, IIRC.

My co-citizens don't take kindly to it as a request to move over [we don't have that dispensation in our road code], so it can be "Go ahead, move into the traffic ahead of me", or an accompaniment to a Stebel blast when a slow mover swans across into a fast-moving lane.

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post #11 of 16 Old 10-15-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Here in the US it's sometimes misconstrued as giving up YOUR right of way (as in , letting someone know you see them and letting them merge in front of you).

So you have to be careful with it. Big cities understand it a bit better, but you won't get that same understanding out in the sticks. Flashing brights just means you are out to tick somebody off
Yeah, I forgot about that. I see a lot of truckers use it as a signal to another truck that it's clear to pull back in the lane after they've been passed.

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post #12 of 16 Old 10-15-2012, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Here in the US it's sometimes misconstrued as giving up YOUR right of way (as in , letting someone know you see them and letting them merge in front of you).

So you have to be careful with it. Big cities understand it a bit better, but you won't get that same understanding out in the sticks. Flashing brights just means you are out to tick somebody off
yup... or when its night and you come to a 4 way stop all at the same time... a quick flash lets em know hey. go ahead im in no hurry.

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post #13 of 16 Old 10-16-2012, 07:52 PM
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Since high current switching is something that has been on my mind lately(along with about 10,000 other things!) here's a quick take on a flash to pass function using my sealed pushbutton:

The button:
Pushbutton 1.JPG
And a representative circuit:
Simple HC switching P channel.jpg
The transistor is available from DigiKey electronics supply IRF5305PBF International Rectifier | IRF5305PBF-ND | DigiKey for $1.81 in single quantities and has maximum ratings about double the load that will be applied. Another plus is everything will easily fit in the switch housing.

There, that's my take on it. As to the desirability of using it in the presence of your average car driver ... no comment.

Rob

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post #14 of 16 Old 10-17-2012, 02:52 PM
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What heat dissipation will that rectifier need? Is there a place in the housing to use as a heat sink? Anyway i like the circuit.

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post #15 of 16 Old 10-18-2012, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MF1VE View Post
What heat dissipation will that transistor (fixed) need? Is there a place in the housing to use as a heat sink? Anyway i like the circuit.
Most of the heat generated during use is from the cold filament heating up when first turned on. Averaging 3 times the operational current (~4 amps) that's 12 amps inrush (pulse) current. The IRF5305 is rated at 110 amps pulse, so no worries there. The load if the button is held down is 4 amps -- WAY below the max of 31 amps. Frankly I doubt if a heat sink is necessary.

Here's a link to the datasheet: http://www.irf.com/product-info/data...irf5305pbf.pdf It should tell you all you need to know.

If you are adamant about a heat sink there is a good place to do it: the handlebar! To use it make a small aluminum piece flat on one side and radiused 0.4375" to match the curve of the bar. Keep in mind the drain lead is also the mounting tab and is powered up whenever the high beam is on, so the transistor must be insulated from the heat sink unless you like blowing fuses. Fortunately the TO220 package is very common and there are readily available insulating kits consisting of a Mica sheet and a plastic spacer piece to insulate the tab from the heat sink. Use heat transmissive heat sink grease between all parts of the insulating kit and where it contacts the bar to insure adequate contact. If in doubt, check with an EE where you work for more information (assuming there is one!). Bring the datasheet with you.
Heat sink 1.jpg

Rob

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On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #16 of 16 Old 10-20-2012, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Rob.

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