So I have been thinking about swapping the control pods on my 919 for some other/newer style pods for awhile now. I was trolling ebay looking at pods and decided to go grab my spare L/H pod from the garage to compare to the cbr & gixxer ones I was looking at online.
Anyway on closer inspection I notice that the L/H 919 pod already has a blank spot on the forward face capped off with a blanking plug. It's well hidden and hard to notice. My '06 and '02 both have the same spot built right into the L/H pod. Pretty neat, check it out!
So the plan is to wire up a push to pass button in this blank spot. I went out and rummaged through the parts bins and found a horn button off an old Honda that will work nicely.
The headlight switch is right there in the same housing, so minimal wiring is need to be messed with. The 919 has a three wire switch for the headlight hi/low so all u need to do is jumper off the wires for the high beam and ground and run the push button between them
BTW... I run a 599 headlight with dual bulb's. The low beam circuit my 9'er is fed from a different circuit not the switch. I do not know how this will affect the 919 headlight. It should be fine and am pretty sure a member will chime in with a way to make this work on everyone's bike and a neat little switch that can be found to do it for cheap.
Here are a few pics of the switch I have on hand that I will probably be using. It's a horn switch from an early 80's Honda. It's almost the perfect size.
I can't seem to find the Euro switch from the hornet online, you can buy the whole assembly but not the switch separately. I hope Rob has some input, the little micro switch he showed in his other pod thread would be sweet.
So, I know what push to pass is on Indy cars, but what does that mean on a motorcycle?
It's a little button like they have on vehicles in Europe that flashes your high beam when you press it so the person in front of you knows you want to pass and is SUPPOSED to move over for you. They do in Europe but here in the good ole USA it dog eat dog!
Four wheels move the body ... two wheels move the soul.
My non-US spec '03 already has one, but it doesn't get much use. It's got a kind of lever shape to it, a bit like the starter switch, IIRC.
My co-citizens don't take kindly to it as a request to move over [we don't have that dispensation in our road code], so it can be "Go ahead, move into the traffic ahead of me", or an accompaniment to a Stebel blast when a slow mover swans across into a fast-moving lane.
What heat dissipation will that transistor (fixed) need? Is there a place in the housing to use as a heat sink? Anyway i like the circuit.
Most of the heat generated during use is from the cold filament heating up when first turned on. Averaging 3 times the operational current (~4 amps) that's 12 amps inrush (pulse) current. The IRF5305 is rated at 110 amps pulse, so no worries there. The load if the button is held down is 4 amps -- WAY below the max of 31 amps. Frankly I doubt if a heat sink is necessary.
If you are adamant about a heat sink there is a good place to do it: the handlebar! To use it make a small aluminum piece flat on one side and radiused 0.4375" to match the curve of the bar. Keep in mind the drain lead is also the mounting tab and is powered up whenever the high beam is on, so the transistor must be insulated from the heat sink unless you like blowing fuses. Fortunately the TO220 package is very common and there are readily available insulating kits consisting of a Mica sheet and a plastic spacer piece to insulate the tab from the heat sink. Use heat transmissive heat sink grease between all parts of the insulating kit and where it contacts the bar to insure adequate contact. If in doubt, check with an EE where you work for more information (assuming there is one!). Bring the datasheet with you. Heat sink 1.jpg
If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
------- Rob --------