Blue Winter Project - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Blue Winter Project

Hello Folks,


Long time no chat :-D winter has arrived here in Vancouver and insurance has expired at the end of September, so it's the perfect time to take the bike apart and get some things done for it.



I'm thinking of working on the following items:
  1. Ceramic coat exhaust, headers + y-pipe
    1. Reasoning for this: I want to get a clean looking set of pipes, take advantage of ceramic coating resistance to chipping/scratching and also take advantage of ceramic coatings temperature properties to move hot air more efficiently through the pipes
    2. Here i'd need some suggestions/tips on removing the y-pipe
  2. Fix exhaust leak between y-pipe and CF DanMoto slip ons (this is where my stink has been coming from)
    1. Any suggestions on how to get this fixed? I figured i'd wrap a bit of exhaust wrap on the ypipe where the slipon slips on and see if that works.
    2. I guess you get what you pay for with the slip ons (if anybody sees any CF Yoshimura TRI send me PM please)
  3. Decide what route to take to fix my body panels - I might try vinyl wrap
    1. As you know my bike got stolen so the paint on the tank is horribly scratched, but the biggie is the fact that my rear cowl is a completely different colour so I might try vinyl wrapping the body parts
    2. Not sure if I should try it myself or pay a professional, I'll have to do some research
    3. Going to need some info on taking the tank off, but I'm sure i'll find a thread here.
    4. Any other tips would be appreciated.
  4. Any other suggestions from you guys ? that I should look to do


Thanks and ride safe

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post #2 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 01:35 PM
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Cool. I like winter build threads.
As far as your exhaust leaks go have you tried an exhaust/manifold silicon sealant? Let it set a bit before pushing pipes together and don't clamp tight until following day. That way you hopefully don't squeeze it all out.
When you remove your Y pipe it would be a good time to reverse your swing arm bolt. So you can remove your chain intact for easy cleaning in the future.
Have fun with that vinyl wrapping. I wouldn't have a clue.

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post #3 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Hello Folks,


Long time no chat :-D winter has arrived here in Vancouver and insurance has expired at the end of September, so it's the perfect time to take the bike apart and get some things done for it.



I'm thinking of working on the following items:
  1. Ceramic coat exhaust, headers + y-pipe
    1. Reasoning for this: I want to get a clean looking set of pipes, take advantage of ceramic coating resistance to chipping/scratching and also take advantage of ceramic coatings temperature properties to move hot air more efficiently through the pipes
    2. Here i'd need some suggestions/tips on removing the y-pipe
  2. Fix exhaust leak between y-pipe and CF DanMoto slip ons (this is where my stink has been coming from)
    1. Any suggestions on how to get this fixed? I figured i'd wrap a bit of exhaust wrap on the ypipe where the slipon slips on and see if that works.
    2. I guess you get what you pay for with the slip ons (if anybody sees any CF Yoshimura TRI send me PM please)
  3. Decide what route to take to fix my body panels - I might try vinyl wrap
    1. As you know my bike got stolen so the paint on the tank is horribly scratched, but the biggie is the fact that my rear cowl is a completely different colour so I might try vinyl wrapping the body parts
    2. Not sure if I should try it myself or pay a professional, I'll have to do some research
    3. Going to need some info on taking the tank off, but I'm sure i'll find a thread here.
    4. Any other tips would be appreciated.
  4. Any other suggestions from you guys ? that I should look to do


Thanks and ride safe
Re the can connecting sleeve leak at the legs of the Y.
Strongly suggest you work towards it not leaking from inside out as compared to trying to retain it once it has got outside.
My Yoshi's were a tad loose re their class of fit.
I applied a copper based anti-seize compound on both surfaces.
That solved the problem, and has for 10 years so far.
I get the impression your class of fit situation is much worse.
As in some thousandths of an inch clearance all around the diameter.
Ideal would be a thin wrapping of Graphoil or equal, whether you have access to it industrially is another matter.
It does exist in near electrical tape dimensioned size.
If you only need to bridge a couple of thou', you could try aluminum foil, then put some anti-seize on.
If you have a really bad class of fit problem, look for some 3 or 5 thou' brass shim stock and make a spacer sleeve.
Yes, it will have a split line, but a small one can be filled with some anti-seize.
If the can's connecting sleeve does, or can be made to, butt up to the distance ring on the legs of the Y, such fixes will do the job nicely.
I found the oil carrier of the anti-seize sort of sweated out with the first heat of a ride.

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post #4 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions; i guess i bought that exhaust wrap for no reason as it might be to think to go in between the slip-on and the y-pipe.


I'll tackle this once I get the headers and y-pipe back from ceramic coating.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Re the can connecting sleeve leak at the legs of the Y.
Strongly suggest you work towards it not leaking from inside out as compared to trying to retain it once it has got outside.
My Yoshi's were a tad loose re their class of fit.
I applied a copper based anti-seize compound on both surfaces.
That solved the problem, and has for 10 years so far.
I get the impression your class of fit situation is much worse.
As in some thousandths of an inch clearance all around the diameter.
Ideal would be a thin wrapping of Graphoil or equal, whether you have access to it industrially is another matter.
It does exist in near electrical tape dimensioned size.
If you only need to bridge a couple of thou', you could try aluminum foil, then put some anti-seize on.
If you have a really bad class of fit problem, look for some 3 or 5 thou' brass shim stock and make a spacer sleeve.
Yes, it will have a split line, but a small one can be filled with some anti-seize.
If the can's connecting sleeve does, or can be made to, butt up to the distance ring on the legs of the Y, such fixes will do the job nicely.
I found the oil carrier of the anti-seize sort of sweated out with the first heat of a ride.

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post #5 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 03:43 PM
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A pic of the type of sealant I've used on several exhausts. The Danmoto cans are sort of held on by a spring/hook system? Have you tried using an exhaust clamp as well?
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post #6 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 03:48 PM
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I avoided the whole spring/hook system. Just a clamp. Didn't have to split the pipe it tightened up real firm.
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post #7 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Thanks for the suggestions; i guess i bought that exhaust wrap for no reason as it might be to think to go in between the slip-on and the y-pipe.


I'll tackle this once I get the headers and y-pipe back from ceramic coating.
You could use it to wrap the entire Y.
I did mine, plus the headers from the head to about 4 inches below the bottom of the rad.
(Plus heat reflective tape on the inside of the heat shields)
It made a huge difference re heat from exhaust on hot days is slow traffic.

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post #8 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
A pic of the type of sealant I've used on several exhausts. The Danmoto cans are sort of held on by a spring/hook system? Have you tried using an exhaust clamp as well?
Copper doped RTV Silicone type gasket maker good to 700 degrees.
F or C, I'd assume F.

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post #9 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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The leak is coming from the other side, at the y-pipe connectin.


The springs work quite well and keep everything quite snugg there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
I avoided the whole spring/hook system. Just a clamp. Didn't have to split the pipe it tightened up real firm.

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post #10 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
The leak is coming from the other side, at the y-pipe connectin.


The springs work quite well and keep everything quite snugg there.
Maybe the Graphoil seal there is damaged or missing.
Is the clamp still OK?
Bolt and/or nut not stripped?
With stock parts, that should not be leaking.

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post #11 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Clamp is ok, it just seems that it doesn't hug the y-pipe tight enough.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Maybe the Graphoil seal there is damaged or missing.
Is the clamp still OK?
Bolt and/or nut not stripped?
With stock parts, that should not be leaking.

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post #12 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 07:57 PM
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Both ends of my stock Y pipe. You can see the graphoil seals.
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post #13 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 08:27 PM
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The inlet of the Y should be a slight work in fit, on to the header exit.
If not, then the graphoil is worn or damaged beyond the service limit.
You might be able to work the graphoil down a bit and make it thicker, and get some improved ID fit that way.

My Yoshis don't use the graphoil on the legs of the Y.
It's metal to metal fit.
I erred by assuming your cans would be the same.

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post #14 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
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Both ends of my stock Y pipe. You can see the graphoil seals.
I realize the clamping ring is loose at present, but make sure the locking tang indents into one of the slots when you fit it all back up.
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post #15 of 132 Old 11-01-2018, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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I actually tried with new seals and didn't fit at all.


It is metal on metal :P




Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
The inlet of the Y should be a slight work in fit, on to the header exit.
If not, then the graphoil is worn or damaged beyond the service limit.
You might be able to work the graphoil down a bit and make it thicker, and get some improved ID fit that way.

My Yoshis don't use the graphoil on the legs of the Y.
It's metal to metal fit.
I erred by assuming your cans would be the same.

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post #16 of 132 Old 11-02-2018, 06:33 AM
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Wrapping will def make the bike look better take your time do small pieces first to get use to it you will be glad you did it cause the bike will be all one color and theres plenty of colors to choose
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post #17 of 132 Old 11-02-2018, 09:41 PM
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I'd paint it a really dark blue, or purple. So dark that it looks black under low light, but the color shows up in the sunlight. It's like having 2 colors. I'd have the tank stickers in chrome. Get a paint shop to do it. You can't beat a Pro when it comes to paint. Then I would do a lot of black on the smaller parts. Don't go overboard like a lot of guys tend to do. Keep it minimalistic/ understated.

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post #18 of 132 Old 11-02-2018, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to keep the blue and gold theme going.

Already decided on this vinyl:




And for logos I was either going to go with the new cb1000r honda emblem(on the tank) or the more custom golden hornet sticker, maybe both with the little hornet on the rear instead
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post #19 of 132 Old 11-05-2018, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'll also be taking of the radiator to clean it up and do a fluid flush as I don't know when it was last done; though I think I'll do it after I put the exhaust back on.

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post #20 of 132 Old 11-06-2018, 11:52 AM
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I'm going to take my radiator off as well. Mostly so I can repaint it. Paint is flaking off from around the edges.
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post #21 of 132 Old 11-06-2018, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Do you mind documenting what you're doing?
Including the flushing, removal, preping for paint etc :P


Good Idea with the paint, mine is flaking in some areas too. (Y)

Also did you get around to trying that new air intake ? So i can have your old one :P ?

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I'm going to take my radiator off as well. Mostly so I can repaint it. Paint is flaking off from around the edges.

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post #22 of 132 Old 11-06-2018, 03:22 PM
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Don't mind at all.
Hadn't done anything about the new air intake. Have all the parts just got to do a little assembly. I'll pull my finger out and get on with it.
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post #23 of 132 Old 11-07-2018, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Latest update:
- Took off the headers, the look dirty AF (see pictures)

I've also decided to go with the single sided exhaust conversion I want a clean CF shorty to put on there.



I'd like to drop some weight and bring the weight lower. So I'll be looking for a 900rr header.

If anybody knows of one for sale or comes accross one online let me know


A bit of an aside... Has anybody done custom titanium headers for the 9er ? As in an individual (doubt a company would do it) I wonder how much it'd cost to get one of those things going. Thoughts ?
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post #24 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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what do people think of this?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/98-1998-Hond...8:pf:0&vxp=mtr


Seems OK without any major dents or scratches.
I was thinking of ceramic coating the entire thing, including the muffler which i'd like to hack in half to make it a shorty.

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post #25 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 08:35 AM
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HERES A CHEAPER ONE FROM A MEMBER https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...tem-80045.html I ALSO SENT U A PM BOUT DECALS
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post #26 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 08:36 AM
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OH AND THE YOSHI ONE IS GREAT 2

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post #27 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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You da' man, sir
The yoshi is ok, but the one from Ditch is in better condition.


I replied to your first PM about decals, but didn't see a second.

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HERES A CHEAPER ONE FROM A MEMBER https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...tem-80045.html I ALSO SENT U A PM BOUT DECALS

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post #28 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 11:54 AM
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PM ME YOUR EMAIL WILL SEND U PROOFS OF DECALS

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post #29 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 08:41 PM
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Ewmin, I pulled my finger out. Couple of hours today and its all made up. I've got some fibreglass work to do now and some paint. Then test it out, make sure it doesn't fly apart!
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post #30 of 132 Old 11-08-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ewmin, I pulled my finger out. Couple of hours today and its all made up. I've got some fibreglass work to do now and some paint. Then test it out, make sure it doesn't fly apart!
Looks great

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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post #31 of 132 Old 11-09-2018, 05:38 PM
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On eBay there's a 900rr full custom titanium header for 500 or best offer

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post #32 of 132 Old 11-10-2018, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, but I'm fine with the 100$ one :P

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On eBay there's a 900rr full custom titanium header for 500 or best offer

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post #33 of 132 Old 11-10-2018, 05:56 PM
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I figured. Lol. I figured I would tell u Cause I've never seen one before. And I was gonna get the 1 I told u about next month if the guy still had it but I figured I would tell u to help him out. Glad it worked out but for some reason it don't I will take off your hands

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post #34 of 132 Old 11-14-2018, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody have any recommendations on how to remove the copper washers from the header place ? It seems they're quite stuck on there.


Is it safe to take a knife on there ?

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post #35 of 132 Old 11-14-2018, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
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Anybody have any recommendations on how to remove the copper washers from the header place ? It seems they're quite stuck on there.


Is it safe to take a knife on there ?
Sounds like they have been heavily crushed, plus the effect of time.
Try to get in between the back face of the washer, and the head, with a thin flat screw driver and see if you can wedge in a bit and go from there.
Be very careful not to damage the flat surface of the exhaust port that the back of the washer loads up on.
Also try using a thin flat screw driver to wedge in between at the OD of the washer.
Go slowly and go carefully.
They should not be a major problem to get out.

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post #36 of 132 Old 11-14-2018, 03:13 PM
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Since the subject of header gaskets has come up I have a question. I see two types of gaskets available. A copper one and a alloy/Fibre type. I intend to use a copper type like the OEM. But is there any advantage that the alloy/fibre type has over the copper?
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post #37 of 132 Old 11-15-2018, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I think the point of using copper is because its a very soft metal, ensuring a good moldable seal.



Don't know what benefits any other type of alloy would have; but i'm guessing a fiber type material wouldn't make a good seal no? if it's not soft enough.


Paging @LDH

Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Since the subject of header gaskets has come up I have a question. I see two types of gaskets available. A copper one and a alloy/Fibre type. I intend to use a copper type like the OEM. But is there any advantage that the alloy/fibre type has over the copper?

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post #38 of 132 Old 11-15-2018, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
I think the point of using copper is because its a very soft metal, ensuring a good moldable seal.



Don't know what benefits any other type of alloy would have; but i'm guessing a fiber type material wouldn't make a good seal no? if it's not soft enough.


Paging @LDH
It's been so long since I did mine I can't remember if the copper was convoluted for crushing, or ring type, or disc type.
Anyway, copper is indeed soft if alloyed to be that way.
It's highly resistant to the temperature and gases and the sealing joint.
Generally speaking, for such an application, a cladded fibre type is a lower cost alternative, and not as good as old time asbestos based one were.

Back to copper.
My Norton came factory fitted with a sheet copper head gasket.
It was essentially infinitely reuseable, as long as it hadn't been damaged.
But one had to soften it with every reuse.
Very easy, heat with a torch until the colour changed, then let it slowly air cool.
I'm still not sure what the hardening in use mechanism was, but there was one.

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post #39 of 132 Old 11-20-2018, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Now that I just received the headers and mid pipe, I'll be sending them off to ceramic coating whenever I can take some lunch time off.


Any Muffler suggestions/recommendations. My only preference is that it's 3/4 or shorter
Maybe I can snatch a brand new one for a good price with black friday and all

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post #40 of 132 Old 11-20-2018, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Too expensive to chop up and turn into a shorty ?


https://abbotsford.craigslist.ca/mpo...718086171.html

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