Better mpg after flapper mod and Hiflo filter - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-18-2019, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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Better mpg after flapper mod and Hiflo filter

I recently did the flapper mod and at the same time swapped the K & N filter for a Hiflo filter. Other than feeling a more linear acceleration/ torque curve, I was pleasantly surprised to find that after several full tanks now, the economy of the bike is much better.

I was getting the amber fuel light appear consistently between 165 and 170ish. Now the light appears between 200 and 210. Tank after tank. With pretty much the exact same riding routes. Which are almost exclusively in 40-60km/h limits for commuting and zipping around town locally. One trip with a brief 5 minute highway blast of 80-90km/h.

I assume these changes are down to mainly the air filter change? Though perhaps the flapper mod is helping also, yet from what I gather it is allowing extra air in only low down the rpm range, so any gain in mpg would be minimal.

Just thought I would post this as extra incentive for others to apply the same measures if they are dithering!

Cheers,
D
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-18-2019, 04:27 AM
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The flapper valve is vacuum activated and I believe is more active at mid range revs and only really when there is load on the engine so probably would be making at difference with your current riding regime.
I wouldn't be surprised if it was the air filter making the biggest difference. Possibly having some effect on the Map sensor in the airbox. The Map sensor is part of the bikes fuel map calculating system.
Clean and lubed chain would help too.
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post #3 of 19 Old 01-18-2019, 12:38 PM
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That's got to be KM, not miles .

So you went FROM the K&N to another brand call Hiflo and the flapper mod?

So is this new filter a sponge or a paper, or gauze or what?

I was going to mention that I *think* I get better MPG on mine after I removed the whole flapper housing and dropped in a K&N. You can reach over and touch it, there's no cover there.

I noticed a little boost in the mid range and I can hear it more, but seems like I'm getting more miles per tank.

So how many MPG are you getting before/after... seems 33 to 40 is the norm with some claims in the 40+ MPG range. I seem to be stuck in the lower end of that range, but I'm almost all aggressive street riding.

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post #4 of 19 Old 01-19-2019, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
The flapper valve is vacuum activated and I believe is more active at mid range revs and only really when there is load on the engine so probably would be making at difference with your current riding regime.
I wouldn't be surprised if it was the air filter making the biggest difference. Possibly having some effect on the Map sensor in the airbox. The Map sensor is part of the bikes fuel map calculating system.
Clean and lubed chain would help too.
Not quite sure how the fuel map works - other than>
Its set in the ECU. The major value of the PC is that you can install new fuel maps. They pretty much determine how much fuel is delivered to the engine at certain openings of the throttle (or rpm?). My 09 FZ1 was the first bike I had ever installed a PC (V) into. I did this not for the gains reported by using other custom maps, but to get the best out of the ECU flash I had done by Ivan. This change was huge to the ride. In pretty much all rpm there was linear gains, and the smoothness was sublime.

I keep finding myself peeking at PC IIIs but they are so expensive for what seems to amount to little gain in performance?

If the map is set by throttle opening then I assume that the same fuel is going in, but the flapper mod/ Hifo is allowing more air into the mixture, hence I am getting a little more bang for buck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
That's got to be KM, not miles .

So you went FROM the K&N to another brand call Hiflo and the flapper mod?

So is this new filter a sponge or a paper, or gauze or what?

I was going to mention that I *think* I get better MPG on mine after I removed the whole flapper housing and dropped in a K&N. You can reach over and touch it, there's no cover there.

I noticed a little boost in the mid range and I can hear it more, but seems like I'm getting more miles per tank.

So how many MPG are you getting before/after... seems 33 to 40 is the norm with some claims in the 40+ MPG range. I seem to be stuck in the lower end of that range, but I'm almost all aggressive street riding.
yes, I used mpg as I am english and hard to shake some terms...I have signed up to fuelly.com and will send word of the stats once I have a few refills recorded and the numbers crunched.

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post #5 of 19 Old 01-19-2019, 03:44 AM
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor
For your reading pleasure. Our CB900's have one in the airbox.
Other than suspension I consider the PC111 one of the best mods I made to my bike. Luv it.
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-19-2019, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegutterpoet View Post
1
Not quite sure how the fuel map works - other than>
Its set in the ECU. The major value of the PC is that you can install new fuel maps. They pretty much determine how much fuel is delivered to the engine at certain openings of the throttle (or rpm?).

2
I keep finding myself peeking at PC IIIs but they are so expensive for what seems to amount to little gain in performance?

1
A wee blurb on 919 fueling for you:
The ECU contains two maps, one is a Speed-Density Map, the other is a Speed-Throttle Map.
The ECU selects which one to use.
(Which also means there is a transition zone between the two, and that zone will surely vary as a function of a number of parameters inputted to the ECU to enable the change map decision.)
Both Maps determine a required volume to be injected, said volume controlled by the ECU issued pulse width signal to each injector, all being highly reliant upon a stable and standardized fuel rail pressure level in order for the determined volume delivery requirement to even be possible on a repeatable basis.

The Speed-Density Map is used for Low Loads X Low TP % Openings, and is dominated by the MAP and RPM (my understanding is that high RPMs under no load are controlled by S-D M’).

The Speed-Throttle Map is used for Higher Loads and Larger Low TP % Openings, and is dominated by the % TP Opening and RPM.

Because the PC is a piggyback device only, it does not hold complete maps, so only map changes to be layered upon the two maps in the ECU, are actually held by the PC.

2
Some WTers have reported no observable advantage from having fitted a PC.
Others have reported transformational results.
Personally, my experience was of the latter, not the former.
Point blank, my bike was nothing short of horrid once fully warmed up and having to crawl along in slow traffic.
After putting on the PC, it went to being like a rheostat, I could walk it down to sub 1000 RPM in first gear and use just the throttle for nice smooth changes in speed to match traffic.
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post #7 of 19 Old 01-19-2019, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for that mcromo. It cleared a few things up for me as well. Makes sense now when I think that the K&N air filter I tried made my bike run poorly at low speed, jerky, surging throttle. Pop in OEM filter, smooth.
I also had pretty much the same positive experience with a PC111.

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post #8 of 19 Old 01-19-2019, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Thanks for that mcromo. It cleared a few things up for me as well. Makes sense now when I think that the K&N air filter I tried made my bike run poorly at low speed, jerky, surging throttle. Pop in OEM filter, smooth.
I also had pretty much the same positive experience with a PC111.
A bit more is due on this:
One of the inputs the ECM uses to make fueling changes is the signal from the MAP, MAP being Manifold Absolute Pressure.
The MAP is part of how the ECM determines the actual mass density of the intake air in order to adjust the fueling.
The MAP sensor is on the engine side of the air filter, not the atmospheric side.
The MAP therefore sees whatever engine side air box dynamic damping effect there is from the filter.
I don't know how much there is, but I strongly suspect there is "some", but not very much.

My theory still remains that some aftermarket air filters have enough of a damping characteristic difference to create enough pressure fluctuation to spook the MAP.
Further, the said effect will vary depending on engine revs and load, for any given filter.
LDHs dyno work re RC51 modified air filters and K&N to me is extremely suggestive of my theory being a possible explanation for those results.
The many dyno runs I had done years ago to compare Stock : BMC air filters also support my thinking, where a bit of torque curve roughness and loss showed up down in the revs.

Air boxes, done right, require complex design analysis, and the air filter is an integral part of it.
Messing with air boxes can wreak absolute havoc upon the gas flow and fueling of engines, be they carb'd or injected.
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-19-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Some brilliant and informative response, cheers folks. Not all off which I fully understand but I appreciate the guidance.

I'm easily inspired to once again consider a PC, but they are rather pricy. Not sure I can really justify spending $AU500 for something which might not achieve much other than smoothing out some of the ruggedness which I enjoy of the 919. Very hard to know if the maps and PC will change the ride significantly without taking the plunge. Though I suppose if there were definite improvements to be had in fuel economy I could reason it out that way to the lawyer in my head!

Also...its probably not quite a scam but a little misleading, yet I have peeked several times at this>
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NITRO-X-...53.m1438.l2649

The Nitro X chip. Obviously a lot less configurable than a PC, yet seems interesting. Too simplistic to be of any joy value?

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post #10 of 19 Old 01-20-2019, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegutterpoet View Post
Some brilliant and informative response, cheers folks. Not all off which I fully understand but I appreciate the guidance.

I'm easily inspired to once again consider a PC, but they are rather pricy. Not sure I can really justify spending $AU500 for something which might not achieve much other than smoothing out some of the ruggedness which I enjoy of the 919. Very hard to know if the maps and PC will change the ride significantly without taking the plunge. Though I suppose if there were definite improvements to be had in fuel economy I could reason it out that way to the lawyer in my head!

Also...its probably not quite a scam but a little misleading, yet I have peeked several times at this>
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NITRO-X-...53.m1438.l2649

The Nitro X chip. Obviously a lot less configurable than a PC, yet seems interesting. Too simplistic to be of any joy value?
I've done some cursory searching about.
As suspected, the device looks to be yet another that simply taps into the IAT (Inlet Air Temp') sensing in order to spook the ECU into the thinking the air is less dense, or more dense, the ECU then adjusting the fueling accordingly.
The so called maps within, are surely nothing more than a range of established temperature steps of deviation from actual.
I found a post on a CBR1000 forum where someone had one, opened it up, and found that the box is basically an adjustable resistor, which is exactly how one would spook the ECU via the IAT.

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post #11 of 19 Old 01-20-2019, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
I've done some cursory searching about.
As suspected, the device looks to be yet another that simply taps into the IAT (Inlet Air Temp') sensing in order to spook the ECU into the thinking the air is less dense, or more dense, the ECU then adjusting the fueling accordingly.
The so called maps within, are surely nothing more than a range of established temperature steps of deviation from actual.
I found a post on a CBR1000 forum where someone had one, opened it up, and found that the box is basically an adjustable resistor, which is exactly how one would spook the ECU via the IAT.
I also found the manufacturer's website.
Paraphrasing somewhat, it says it can be used with things like a Power Commander.
That in itself is absolute evidence that the NitroX box can be nothing more than a IAT spooking device.

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post #12 of 19 Old 01-20-2019, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
I also found the manufacturer's website.
Paraphrasing somewhat, it says it can be used with things like a Power Commander.
That in itself is absolute evidence that the NitroX box can be nothing more than a IAT spooking device.
Given that it's in the range of 20% of the price of a PC, I wonder how well it works. Also, if it's really that simple of a device, why can't someone just make one?

Years ago I did the "relay mod" which was a direct line to the starter from the battery that used a relay so as to get more power to the starter (it might have cut the power to the headlight, IDR). Simple $10~$15 mod and it worked.

How hard would it be to knock this off?

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post #13 of 19 Old 01-20-2019, 05:52 PM
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When I had my 919, the previous owner had an old serial port Power Commander that wasn’t properly mapped on it. I replaced it with a USB PC3.

I had a map made by this gentleman for $75, which also includes accelerator pump settings and instructions for throttle calibration.
http://jeffomaps.com/efi-tuning-services

$75 for a map (based on bike specific mods, elevation and riding temperature), that is custom but not done on a dyno.

while I am new to this, I can tell/feel how good this map is.
I rode with the:
1. PC3 serial with a poor match for the bike map, bike was starving for fuel.
2. PC3 serial with the fueling manually adjusted way up with the buttons (vast improvement over the installed map)
3. A new PC3-USB with a stock map
4. PC3-USB with the Jeffo map/accelerator pump.

Mods were:
-Pair valve removal and flapper mod
-debaffled exhaust
-K&N air filter
-minus 1 tooth, front sprocket
-New iridium spark plugs

It is a completely different ride now. Throttle now is extremely smooth and responsive on acceleration and deceleration across all gears/rpm ranges.

Jeffo was extremely helpful from start to finish. Great customer service, takes the time to call you and have phone conversations. Really great guy, can't ride anymore due to hip surgery, but says he lives vicariously through his customers.

To me it was worth the $75 risk and it paid off. Especially vs the option of spending $250-$500 for a custom map made on a dyno.
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-21-2019, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC1978 View Post
When I had my 919, the previous owner had an old serial port Power Commander that wasn’t properly mapped on it. I replaced it with a USB PC3.

I had a map made by this gentleman for $75, which also includes accelerator pump settings and instructions for throttle calibration.
JeffoMaps.com | Official Site - EFI/Tuning Services

$75 for a map (based on bike specific mods, elevation and riding temperature), that is custom but not done on a dyno.

while I am new to this, I can tell/feel how good this map is.
I rode with the:
1. PC3 serial with a poor match for the bike map, bike was starving for fuel.
2. PC3 serial with the fueling manually adjusted way up with the buttons (vast improvement over the installed map)
3. A new PC3-USB with a stock map
4. PC3-USB with the Jeffo map/accelerator pump.

Mods were:
-Pair valve removal and flapper mod
-debaffled exhaust
-K&N air filter
-minus 1 tooth, front sprocket
-New iridium spark plugs

It is a completely different ride now. Throttle now is extremely smooth and responsive on acceleration and deceleration across all gears/rpm ranges.

Jeffo was extremely helpful from start to finish. Great customer service, takes the time to call you and have phone conversations. Really great guy, can't ride anymore due to hip surgery, but says he lives vicariously through his customers.

To me it was worth the $75 risk and it paid off. Especially vs the option of spending $250-$500 for a custom map made on a dyno.
This kinda talk makes me more eager to consider the PCIII. Maybe it would make more difference than I thought.

You have also revived my interest in dropping the front sprocket by -1. Lots of people on here told me that it was probably overkill, and would certainly put the speedo even more out. With the most popular been 17/44 520 kits from LDH.

16/43 is stock. up the back and down the front add acceleration I believe? So one up at the front and one down at the back loses a little low down but gains a little in the middle as changes to the front make more difference?

Do you find the 15-43 too feisty low down? Hard to commute?

My main riding is around the city with a speed limits of 40-60km/h. I don't get the chance to get out on the highway much, if at all. Just short blasts in the 80 limits...

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post #15 of 19 Old 01-21-2019, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegutterpoet View Post
This kinda talk makes me more eager to consider the PCIII. Maybe it would make more difference than I thought.

You have also revived my interest in dropping the front sprocket by -1. Lots of people on here told me that it was probably overkill, and would certainly put the speedo even more out. With the most popular been 17/44 520 kits from LDH.

16/43 is stock. up the back and down the front add acceleration I believe? So one up at the front and one down at the back loses a little low down but gains a little in the middle as changes to the front make more difference?

Do you find the 15-43 too feisty low down? Hard to commute?

My main riding is around the city with a speed limits of 40-60km/h. I don't get the chance to get out on the highway much, if at all. Just short blasts in the 80 limits...
I rode it pretty similar to you.
Commute and weekend riding.
Tried to stay mainly on back roads and city streets, but didn’t mind taking it out on the freeway.
When on the freeway with the 15/43, I would run it with the speedo in the 90’s mph, so probably actually high 70’s to low 80’s.

Previous owner had 17/44 sprockets, but it was time for a new chain/sprockets and I was getting the PC3 at the same time so went with the 15/43.

The fueling was downright dangerous when I bought it, until I upped the buttons on the old PC.
Final straw was on the interstate, it started cutting out on me.
Pulled over. To get to the next exit I had to keep clutching and revving the engine.
Once back on slower roads, it was rideable to get home.
Went with the new USB PC, because I couldn’t find tuning support/services for the old serial PC.

Definitely more vibration with the 15/43 but I like a bit of that (have a V-twin now).

Not a good solution for lots of highway miles, but IMO not the 919’s strong suit.

When I got my new bike, I road the 919 for 4 hours on the highway to trade it in, and it did fine but revs are definitely higher at highway speeds.

Pic is a dyno run I had done after the PC3 was installed and mapped.
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post #16 of 19 Old 01-21-2019, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC1978 View Post
Pic is a dyno run I had done after the PC3 was installed and mapped.
The map was not created on a dyno, but based on the geographic parameters and mods info that I gave him.
But the guy knows what he is doing. It was extremely smooth.

Also, it was not created for fuel efficiency, but to maximize low/midrange power, with the accelerator pump set to add extra fuel when you crank the throttle.
Instead of making the fueling system “catch up” with the throttle request for extra fuel.

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post #17 of 19 Old 01-21-2019, 12:46 PM
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If anyone is interested, here are the instructions on calibrating the throttle and setting the accelerator pump (along with the pump settings that were used in my 919).

I don't know anything about how he chooses the settings (other than years of experience) but I would imagine these particular settings would work similar across all 919's, as it does not change any maps, just adds extra fuel when you twist the throttle hard/fast.

All software is available for free on Dyno Jet's website, and is an easy process to complete with a PC/laptop.

I can't/won't post/attach the map, as part of the purchase agreement was that the map would only be used in one motorcycle and would not be shared (likely because of the low cost vs a dyno tuning session) so I will honor that.



********** Configuring the Throttle Position Settings: **********
1. Warm up the bike to operating temperature.
2. Make the USB connection to the Power Commander and start the Power
Commander Application.
3. Select Power Commander Tools, then Set Throttle Position.
PCIIIUSB models; A window will open with 3 sets of numbers, Closed,
Current and Open.
PC 5 models; A window will open with Min. = Closed and Max. = Open
4. At the Set Throttle Position window observe the Current number or
voltage. The number will be changing. Look for the average number or
voltage and write it down. (the number or voltage half way between the
lowest and highest number or voltages that you observe)
5. Left click into the Closed field and backspace over the old number.
Change it to the number that you wrote down. Press the OK button. The
window will disappear.
6. Return to Power Commander Tools, then Set Throttle Position again.
7. The following steps must be completed quickly:
a. Use the kill switch to stop the engine, leaving the key on. (except
for Yamaha’s; turn key off and then back on)
b. Immediately after the engine stops, turn the kill switch back to its
ON position.
c. Turn and hold the throttle to wide open.
d. Observe the number in the Current field, it may be changing or may
remain constant. Look for the average or constant number and record it.
8. Restart the bike.
9. Left click into the Open field and backspace over the old number.
Change it to the number just recorded. Press the OK button.
Verify the Throttle Position Settings:
1. Start the bike if it’s not still running
2. With the bike at idle the % Throttle window should read “0”
3. Use the kill switch to stop the engine, leaving the key on
4. Immediately after the engine stops, turn the kill switch back to its
ON position
5. With the engine off, turn and hold the throttle to wide open, the %
Throttle window should read “100”
If either the at Closed or at Open throttle positions do not read
correctly, go back and repeat the above configuration procedure and pay
closer attention to the average numbers being displayed when using the
Set Throttle Position utility.
You are now finished with the Throttle Position settings.
Enjoy the ride!




********** PC3 Accelerator Pump Utility: **********
PCIIIUSB:
1. Use this link to download this utility to your computer: (cut and
paste the link into your Browser’s Address Window if clicking on it does
not work)
http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...PumpEnable.exe
[Should this link not work, go to Dynojet Power Commander Products, select
PCIIIUSB, select Support, select Downloads and select USB Power
Commander Accelerator Pump Utility Enable by clicking the Run button.]
2. When the File Download dialog box opens, click on the Save button
3. In the resulting Save As box, save the utility into your C:\pwrcmdr
directory
4. Connect your computer to your PCIIIusb using your USB cable
5. Start your bike
6. Run the PC Accelerator Pump Utility from
C:\pwrcmdr\PCAccellPumpEnable.exe (NOTE: No other Power Commander
software can be running when you launch this utility)
7. The utility will open and should say “Power Commander Connected”
8. Click once on the “Enable Accell Pump Feature” button (NOTE: This
will change it to read “Disable Accell Pump Feature”
9. Click the Red X to exit the utility
10. To configure the Accel Pump settings, run the Power Commander 3 USB
program
For both PCIIIUSB and PC 5:
11. Select Power Commander Tools
12. Select Accel Pump Configuration - (Note: for PC 5, set Accelerator
Pump to “Enabled”.
13. In the resulting Accel Pump Configuration window:
Set the Sensitivity to: 62.5%
Set the Engine Revolutions to: 14
Set the % Fuel Change to: 13
14. Click on the OK button
You are now finished Configuring the Accelerator Pump Utility

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post #18 of 19 Old 01-21-2019, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC1978 View Post
If anyone is interested, here are the instructions on calibrating the throttle and setting the accelerator pump (along with the pump settings that were used in my 919).

I don't know anything about how he chooses the settings (other than years of experience) but I would imagine these particular settings would work similar across all 919's, as it does not change any maps, just adds extra fuel when you twist the throttle hard/fast.

All software is available for free on Dyno Jet's website, and is an easy process to complete with a PC/laptop.

I can't/won't post/attach the map, as part of the purchase agreement was that the map would only be used in one motorcycle and would not be shared (likely because of the low cost vs a dyno tuning session) so I will honor that.



********** Configuring the Throttle Position Settings: **********
1. Warm up the bike to operating temperature.
2. Make the USB connection to the Power Commander and start the Power
Commander Application.
3. Select Power Commander Tools, then Set Throttle Position.
PCIIIUSB models; A window will open with 3 sets of numbers, Closed,
Current and Open.
PC 5 models; A window will open with Min. = Closed and Max. = Open
4. At the Set Throttle Position window observe the Current number or
voltage. The number will be changing. Look for the average number or
voltage and write it down. (the number or voltage half way between the
lowest and highest number or voltages that you observe)
5. Left click into the Closed field and backspace over the old number.
Change it to the number that you wrote down. Press the OK button. The
window will disappear.
6. Return to Power Commander Tools, then Set Throttle Position again.
7. The following steps must be completed quickly:
a. Use the kill switch to stop the engine, leaving the key on. (except
for Yamaha’s; turn key off and then back on)
b. Immediately after the engine stops, turn the kill switch back to its
ON position.
c. Turn and hold the throttle to wide open.
d. Observe the number in the Current field, it may be changing or may
remain constant. Look for the average or constant number and record it.
8. Restart the bike.
9. Left click into the Open field and backspace over the old number.
Change it to the number just recorded. Press the OK button.
Verify the Throttle Position Settings:
1. Start the bike if it’s not still running
2. With the bike at idle the % Throttle window should read “0”
3. Use the kill switch to stop the engine, leaving the key on
4. Immediately after the engine stops, turn the kill switch back to its
ON position
5. With the engine off, turn and hold the throttle to wide open, the %
Throttle window should read “100”
If either the at Closed or at Open throttle positions do not read
correctly, go back and repeat the above configuration procedure and pay
closer attention to the average numbers being displayed when using the
Set Throttle Position utility.
You are now finished with the Throttle Position settings.
Enjoy the ride!




********** PC3 Accelerator Pump Utility: **********
PCIIIUSB:
1. Use this link to download this utility to your computer: (cut and
paste the link into your Browser’s Address Window if clicking on it does
not work)
http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...PumpEnable.exe
[Should this link not work, go to Dynojet Power Commander Products, select
PCIIIUSB, select Support, select Downloads and select USB Power
Commander Accelerator Pump Utility Enable by clicking the Run button.]
2. When the File Download dialog box opens, click on the Save button
3. In the resulting Save As box, save the utility into your C:\pwrcmdr
directory
4. Connect your computer to your PCIIIusb using your USB cable
5. Start your bike
6. Run the PC Accelerator Pump Utility from
C:\pwrcmdr\PCAccellPumpEnable.exe (NOTE: No other Power Commander
software can be running when you launch this utility)
7. The utility will open and should say “Power Commander Connected”
8. Click once on the “Enable Accell Pump Feature” button (NOTE: This
will change it to read “Disable Accell Pump Feature”
9. Click the Red X to exit the utility
10. To configure the Accel Pump settings, run the Power Commander 3 USB
program
For both PCIIIUSB and PC 5:
11. Select Power Commander Tools
12. Select Accel Pump Configuration - (Note: for PC 5, set Accelerator
Pump to “Enabled”.
13. In the resulting Accel Pump Configuration window:
Set the Sensitivity to: 62.5%
Set the Engine Revolutions to: 14
Set the % Fuel Change to: 13
14. Click on the OK button
You are now finished Configuring the Accelerator Pump Utility
Good info and nice assistance.
Beneficial for all to know is that all PC work can be done on the 919 with the key simply left in the on position.
Accelerator pump feature included.
The engine does not need to be running.
The kill switch can be ignored. (while I have never checked, it may need to be in the run position)
Why this is, I don't know, but I stumbled across it early on as I struggled to learn about the 919 FI system and the PCIIIusb on my bike.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #19 of 19 Old 01-21-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
Milites Gregarius
 
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 178
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Garage
I might be able to grab a Wiseco fuel management system for a very reasonable price. Its secondhand but full working condition and can be grabbed for around AU$100.

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