Battery Tender Question - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Battery Tender Question

This is probably a stupid question, but should it matter if my battery tender is plugged into a long extension cord? I'm using one of the big orange ones so it's heavier gauge wire I guess. My bike is stored outside under a carport and the only outlet is kinda far away. I would take the battery out and charge it inside, but geez what a pain in my ass.

Simply put, am I gonna burn my house and/or bike down?

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post #2 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 03:53 PM
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Simply put: No. A little battery tender isnt going to draw enough current to put any strain on your arrangement.

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post #3 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Shit, I just noticed my extension cord has a cut in it, the ground wire was severed some how, (must have did it with the weed wacker and not noticed it). My tender was a standard 2 prong plug so it was still working, but I'm taking it off and picking up a new cord.

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post #4 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 03:56 PM
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I hope not since I have mine plugged into a 100' heavy duty extension cord


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post #5 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 04:25 PM
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<---- battery tenders..... so lawls.... you dont need those things just ride le bike!

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post #6 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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I think I have gotten it out quite a lot over this winter, but it's gonna be sitting the rest of the week while I wait for my chain and sprockets. Battery must still be pretty good though, the light only stayed in the charging state for a couple of minutes.

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post #7 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 04:59 PM
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ive gone months at a time over winter last 5 years...bike is keeped outside....when its time to ride it starts no tender.....i was told gel batterys dont lose cranking power or very little...i had great luck with no tender

dont need a bike to ride the fast lane
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post #8 of 25 Old 03-05-2012, 04:59 PM
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The only problem is that extension cords are not made to be outside in the elements. Now as an electrician I'd say wire up a receptacle out there, but as a friend on this site, id say

Grab some 1" electrical pvc for cheap money.(double check that the extension cord end will fit in there) Electrical PVC comes with couplings built in on the ends.

Grab some pvc glue.

Piece them together to what ever length you need.

Now if you have a metal snake, great, throw that sucker in there. If you dont, get some decent string or small light rope.

Tie 1 or two shopping bags or even trash bags on there so it kind of looks like a football penalty marker.

The bag is just acting like a seal with little friction. So adjust accordingly


Next grab the shop vac and suck on the other end just check on the pipe frequently to see if you have the string.

Use the string to tie to the extension cord and pull it through!

Tape the ends of the PVC with gorilla tape or duct tape


And that's how to hack it in there. lol.

i would NEVER do that at work. But member to member, it will work MUCH better than just leaving it on the ground.

Ohh and make sure your GFCI receptacle is working properly.

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post #9 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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I noticed the when I cranked her last the headlight was dimming and getting brighter as it idled. Flicking back and forth while the revs jumped around as it warmed up. Should I go ahead and ready a new battery? Pretty sure it's the stock one in an '02 with 15000 miles. When I attached the tender it didn't stay in the charging mode very long though.

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post #10 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 07:45 AM
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Id just get a new one. You dont want to get stranded with a dead battery. And the 919 is not the best bike for jump starting because of the battery location. Just a pain

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post #11 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 08:31 AM
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i honestly wouldn't worry about it. it's still doing its job right? if you're that concerned, take a voltmeter to it before you start it next time after it's been sitting and see where the voltage is at before worrying about replacing it. i find the 919 pretty easy to bump start generally, so long as you're not trying to go up hill lol.

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post #12 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the responses, it starts pretty good now, but as long as it's pretty easy to bump start and I wont get stranded I'll wait. My budget is tight right now, and I just had to spend about $260 to get my chain and sprockets sorted out.

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post #13 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 08:47 AM
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as long as it's not giving you issues while starting, i honestly wouldn't worry about it. when it struggles to start is when you gotta do something, and quick lol.

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post #14 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeeDeeGee View Post
thanks for the responses, it starts pretty good now, but as long as it's pretty easy to bump start and I wont get stranded I'll wait. My budget is tight right now, and I just had to spend about $260 to get my chain and sprockets sorted out.
You are still going to require a certain voltage to bump start it. My '03 is at 60K with the original battery on a tender. I have a brand new spare ready to go when needed. I would consider putting a new battery in the budget.
Just a reminder; you should plug the battery to the tender and then into the wall outlet.

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post #15 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 10:42 AM
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You will need a chain on to bump start though

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post #16 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post
Just a reminder; you should plug the battery to the tender and then into the wall outlet.
Please elaborate. I leave my tender plugged in, I have an extension on the tender to make it to the bike and plug in there.

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post #17 of 25 Old 03-09-2012, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Please elaborate. I leave my tender plugged in, I have an extension on the tender to make it to the bike and plug in there.
The tender needs to sense the standing voltage of your battery before you plug it into the wall outlet. This is part of the initialization process so it can program itself to go from charge to maintenance mode.

Page 3,#1: http://www.gearseds.com/files/Produc..._BT_Junior.pdf

I have all of mine on surge protector power strips; I just turn the strip off before I reconnect the tender to the bike battery.



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post #18 of 25 Old 04-04-2012, 10:09 AM
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Sooooo, I buy a new battery after 5 years on the old one, starts, runs fine rides, etc. I come home, hit the kill switch and leave the key in the ON position for 5 weeks while I'm away.
So I buy a b/t jr. today and according to what I just read, it won't charge a battery with less than 3v due to an internal switch.

Anyone want to confirm this before I go ape on the battery store?

Thanks

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post #19 of 25 Old 04-04-2012, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemonhead
Sooooo, I buy a new battery after 5 years on the old one, starts, runs fine rides, etc. I come home, hit the kill switch and leave the key in the ON position for 5 weeks while I'm away.
So I buy a b/t jr. today and according to what I just read, it won't charge a battery with less than 3v due to an internal switch.

Anyone want to confirm this before I go ape on the battery store?

Thanks
That's correct. The jr model will not charge a completely dead battery,however if you run the bike for a half hour to get a charge into it the tender jr will maintain that charge.
Either take the bike for a short spin or let it run for a bit just to get enough of a charge into it so the tender can take over.

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post #20 of 25 Old 04-04-2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemonhead View Post
Sooooo, I buy a new battery after 5 years on the old one, starts, runs fine rides, etc. I come home, hit the kill switch and leave the key in the ON position for 5 weeks while I'm away.
So I buy a b/t jr. today and according to what I just read, it won't charge a battery with less than 3v due to an internal switch.

Anyone want to confirm this before I go ape on the battery store?

Thanks
I'm an idiot here, but won't draining your battery THAT far make it completely useless? Maybe that won't affect a lead-acid as much as a lithium, but I would think it will at least shorten the life or available cranking amps.

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post #21 of 25 Old 04-04-2012, 08:32 PM
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I'm not sure, googe, but that's what I'm thinking. That far down equals another new batt. That would suck right now.

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post #22 of 25 Old 04-05-2012, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it

I'm an idiot here, but won't draining your battery THAT far make it completely useless? Maybe that won't affect a lead-acid as much as a lithium, but I would think it will at least shorten the life or available cranking amps.
Yes,completely killing a battery will shorten it's useful life however during the warmer months that's not too big an issue. As long as it will still tale and hold a charge it will be fine,until it gets colder and it takes more juice to turn the motor over.

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post #23 of 25 Old 04-05-2012, 09:35 AM
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I killed my battery by leaving the heated grips turned on (a relay attached to the ignition switch now stops that from happening again). To get around the < 3 volts problem with my digital charger, I just attached it in parallel to my garden tractor battery. Left it to charge for 2 days. Two years later, battery still works fine.

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post #24 of 25 Old 04-05-2012, 04:20 PM
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+1 to what nealc says. if the voltage is too low on the battery for the charger to kick in, put it in parallel with a good battery with the charger on the good battery. the trickle charge will kick over to the lower voltage battery until they are both equal.

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post #25 of 25 Old 04-06-2012, 03:50 AM
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my kids car was not used during winter while in college..battery completely dead,,,6 amp tender did the trick

dont need a bike to ride the fast lane
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