Anyone deal with bracket cracking from top case? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-18-2013, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Anyone deal with bracket cracking from top case?

I noticed a squeak coming from my top case rack the other day. Seems like it's bobbing up and down more than normal. It's a Givi e55 on a SW-Motech rack.

Today I looked under the seat where the grab rail brackets are and noticed some rust and cracking starting down there . Can't say I'm TOO surprised, as this is my primary grocery runner and gets filled to the brim on a regular basis. I just added side cases last week, which should spread the load some in the future, but they're still connected in part to the same brackets.

Now, my initial thought is to take it to my local welder guy and see if he can fix it, as well as beef it up some, but I'm curious if anyone else had any experience with this. I had a Givi rack that cracked on my old VFR and it was an easy fix. But that was an easily removable accessory, not the actual bike.

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post #2 of 8 Old 12-19-2013, 07:50 AM
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Paging Ken Phenix...

I remember this thread from a while back...
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...tml#post537464



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post #3 of 8 Old 12-19-2013, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Grr. Went to welder guy who said to remove the cracked piece and bring it by. Problem is that it's welded to the subframe. Time for plan b...

Any suggestions? Has anyone gotten stuff welded in there without taking half the bike apart? Is it even doable?

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post #4 of 8 Old 12-19-2013, 01:05 PM
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You're going to need to take the whole bike in to the shop, take the parts off the rear, and have the welder fix it on the spot. The mounting points for the grab rail are welded directly to the frame. There isn't any part that can be detached from the rest of the bike.

http://www.ronayers.com/FRAME-C502280.aspx

I don't think you would need to remove too much off the bike except the rear grab rail, the rear cowl, and then a couple of screws to drop the undertail tray down out of the way.

I'm not familiar with welding techniques, but I've heard people say you need to take precautions or else you might fry the bike's electronics. I'm guessing that means removing the battery and disconnect the ground wire on the frame under the tank. Someone else with more knowledge please chime in.

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post #5 of 8 Old 12-19-2013, 04:32 PM
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My tail is very easy to remove and reassemble, since I have a low mount and shaved grab handle. So here are a few pics and some tips.

Here is the the L/H side of the grab handle mount. It is made from 1/8" plate steel welded to a piece of box steel that comes off the main frame. It is just lap welded on the sides and bottom, so not the best & sturdiest design.



I don't know exactly where yours has cracked, but odds are it's towards the aft end, or maybe one of the welds or weld nuts has broke loose. You will need to get it welded, and in my opinion you should never weld on a bike with the battery and ECU installed.To prep the bike and get it ready for welding and repair....


- remove the side cover
- remove the battery
- seat
- grab handle
- rear cowl
- mufflers
- plate bracket
- signal lights

Next drop the aft section of the undertail tray. Pull the two button head bolts under the grab handle mount plate, followed and two bolts that attach inboard of the muffler mounts going up from the bottom into the frame.





The undertrail tray will sag down allowing you to sneak the ECU out the R/H side from under the main frame rail. Slide the four relays off there standoff's to get a little extra harness length then unplug the ECU two main cannon plugs and remove it from the bike.

It can all be done easily with minimal tools & I would do a practice run at home ..... just tear it down and figure out what tools you need. Then put it back together and take the tools with you to the welding shop.

You may as well have them reinforce it a bit when they are working on it, just have small triangle brace cut and welded to help support the aft end of the grab bar mount plate.

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post #6 of 8 Old 06-27-2015, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Can't believe I never updated this thread when this was going on. I ended up going to see some friends at a burner shop that do art cars and such, and had them weld it. "Cheap chinese steel", is what they said when they saw the subframe.

In the end, the welding worked so well, that eventually the rack itself ended up cracking, so I'm now without a topcase; just the side cases.

Here's a photo album of the proccess:

https://imgur.com/a/zssu6

The end:


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post #7 of 8 Old 06-27-2015, 08:09 PM
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My first 919 had this same failure... I had a buddy of mine (who happens to work as an engineer at NASA) repair it.. He actually reinforced the subframe to support the weight of the topcase, and ran stiffener braces at a 45 degree angle from the grab rail mounts down to the centerline of the frame spine.

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post #8 of 8 Old 06-30-2015, 08:27 AM
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Well, I noticed my top rack was a bit more loose than it used to be. I've been loading this thing with heavy stuff and I guess it was a matter of time before this happened to me too.

I can feel a crack on the left side mounting point under the tail. Time to take out the MIG welder.

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