919 won't start after major service. What am I missing? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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919 won't start after major service. What am I missing?

I just got my '07 919 back together after doing a major service on it and it will not fire up. I'm hoping someone can suggest where to look. I did so much to it I'm not sure where to go now.

All back together the symptom is: it will crank the engine and the only response from the motor is the occasional, intermittent "PUT" from the exhaust. I do smell a touch of burnt fuel, but it does not even try to start running. It was running well before the service.

What I did:
  • 38000 mile valve adjustment, (adjusted 6 valves that were on the loose side so I went with the next-size-up shim. just small adjustments. I successfully did this work at 20k miles as well.)
    oil and filter replaced
    spark plugs replaced
    Coolant flush and replace
    replaced fuel filter
    replaced fuel pressure regulator because I noticed a drop in MPG after it sat past winter and heard that is a common culprit.

Turning the key to run I hear the fuel pump start and the new pressure regulator makes a little whine sound for 1 second (I can feel the vibration with my finger on it, this is new. The old one did not make that noise). Turn key to "start" and the engine cranks a couple times then: PUT... PUT-PUT........PUT, PUT.........PUT.........
And that's it.

I checked the wires on the ignition coil thinking I might have reversed them. black and white wire on the black terminal, blue and yellow wires are on the blue terminal. That makes sense to me... I checked the plug wires and they are all in the right holes. I looked for other wires that I forgot to plug back in, but I don't see anything...

My only guess left is that I some how got the cams put back in wrong??? I turned the engine so the timing marks were facing out and flush with the case when I took them out and put them back in the same way I'm pretty sure... But I was going a little fast... So I'm wondering if I somehow messed that up.

Any other ideas? I'm hoping I just missed a plug somewhere or something.


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post #2 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 04:14 PM
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When I put the top end back on mine last fall I got the cams back in one tooth off and mine sounded like what you are describing I'd pull the valve cover and check timing marks again you've got to make sure to keep the timing chain tight up the front side of the motor ... Hope this helps

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post #3 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 04:21 PM
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https://youtu.be/nRB8DyFL8Tc

Here's a like to the clip of my first attempt to start mine as you can see I was "just a little" disappointed I waited 4 months for 16 valve springs I think they came from Japan in a row boat lol

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post #4 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that. That is similar, but I'm not even getting it to fire like you did for a moment. It could well be the same problem, but I'm just getting single or occasional double puts.

But I can say that I was not paying attention to the front of the chain when I put the cams back in there so reasonable chance that I have essentially the same problem. Good to know it should be tight on the front... It makes sense when I think about it now...because that is the part of the chain under tension when I took it apart...

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post #5 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 04:43 PM
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Exactly, the second time I went to put it back together I caught it when the chain slipped off tightening the exhaust side cam had to loosen and remove the cam hold down to get the chain back on then I left it wrapped around the gear until it was all the way tight the moved on to the intake cam

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post #6 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 05:19 PM
Why's everything on fire?
 
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Did you remember to plug the coils back in and to set the grip switch to run?

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post #7 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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interference engine?

If I really missed the timing should I be worried about valve damage? I don't know if this is an interference engine or not...

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post #8 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
Did you remember to plug the coils back in and to set the grip switch to run?
Coils are plugged in. I thought maybe I had them plugged in the wrong way though. I got the wire with blue on it on the blue terminal and the black on the black so it seems like that should work.

Just checked the grip switch. It's on.

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post #9 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 05:43 PM
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I've no personal experience with the FPR, but I remember reading here that there is a plug that needs to be removed prior to installation. Trying to find the thread.

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post #10 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdog View Post
I've no personal experience with the FPR, but I remember reading here that there is a plug that needs to be removed prior to installation. Trying to find the thread.
There was a flat black plug about the size of a dime on the bottom of it and a cap on the outlet. I pulled those off. Didn't see anything else.

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post #11 of 20 Old 08-22-2015, 05:57 PM
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It was worth a shot Good luck hunting it down.

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post #12 of 20 Old 08-23-2015, 05:34 AM
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Definitely sounds like a timing issue. I would start by getting it back to TDC and recheck your work. The valves are easy to mix up when shimming. Or it could be off one tooth as others stated.

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post #13 of 20 Old 08-23-2015, 06:05 AM
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I'm pretty sure this was caused by being off by one tooth.

Just wondering how valve springs would make a difference. Unless they were out of spec or damaged.

One other note. Harbor Freight sells a leakdown tester. It'll tell you if the valves are bent.

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post #14 of 20 Old 08-24-2015, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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KarlJay,
If I hadn't just figured out what it was, that vid would have gotten me all stressed out. Thanks!

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post #15 of 20 Old 08-24-2015, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Red face Mystery Solved

I dug into the bike today after work. Even convinced the lovely wife to lend some hands to make the job go faster. As I was lifting the valve cover off I reached up to move some wires out of the way and they were the wires that lead to the ignition coils. I noticed just how similar in length and origin they happen to be. In that moment it dawned on me... Which pair of wires goes to which coil...? The connectors are not the same, but they are not cross-incompatible.

I had double checked the positive and negative of these connectors, but not which pair go to which coil. I looked up some pictures on here and lo-and-behold... I had the wires for the cylinders 1-4 on the coil for 2-3.

Since I was there, I checked the timing... Spot on!

Back together and she is purring like a kitten.

Thanks for the ideas! Learn a lesson every time.

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post #16 of 20 Old 08-25-2015, 02:52 AM
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Cool! Always nice when it's a simple fix

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post #17 of 20 Old 08-25-2015, 03:06 AM
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Glad you got it figured out happy riding

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post #18 of 20 Old 12-15-2015, 10:28 PM
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Sorry if this is in the wrong place guys but does this look like an engine crack or anything to worry about?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image_1450247247141.jpg (116.1 KB, 28 views)

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post #19 of 20 Old 12-15-2015, 10:58 PM
Why's everything on fire?
 
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I believe that's a casting seam.

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post #20 of 20 Old 12-16-2015, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatsleep1drum View Post
Sorry if this is in the wrong place guys but does this look like an engine crack or anything to worry about?
Casting seam. I have one as well.

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