919 will not stay running - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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919 will not stay running

I have recently purchased a 2003 Honda 919 that has not been ran in many years. It was last tagged in 2009, but I am not sure when it last ran. I have changed spark plugs, fresh oil and filter, new battery, new entire fuel pump assembly and fresh gas. It will start and run but it seems like it is idling too low and does not run but for about 3 to 15 seconds. Is it just going to take some time to get everything in the fuel system flowing or is there something i need to adjust or clean? Or is there something entirely different I need to look at? I am new to this kind of bike (relatively new to motorcycles in general) as my last had a carburetor instead of fuel injection. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 09:50 AM
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There is an idle adjustment on the left side of the bike just behind the engine. Its a little yellow wheel. Service manual says to look for these:

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
Intake air leak
Fuel contaminated/deteriorated
Pinched or clogged fuel tube
Idle speed misadjusted
Starter valve synchronization misadjus
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post #3 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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wow...looks like a few things. I was messing around with the yellow screw but it only made a difference when it was screwed all the way out. Which made it either not start or decrease running time to 1 second or so.

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post #4 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 10:48 AM
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Try pulling the fast idle knob in the same area (not a choke but similar knob) to eliminate low idle as a possibility. What does it (try) to idle at?

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post #5 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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i went out and tried starting it again about 20 minutes ago. First few times it was just as before. It gradually got to be about 20 to 25 seconds that it would stay running. It tries to idle around 1000rpm but gradually dips down too low to stay running. Would running some injection cleaner help out?

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post #6 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 11:20 AM
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Can't hurt to run some. I would use some seafoam. That stuff works great.

If you later try to search for an air leak at the boots, I like to use starter fluid. Spray it at the boots (lightly) If the bike revs up you know you have a leak.

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post #7 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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awesome, thanks. i'll give it a try

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post #8 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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ok I put some fuel injection cleaner in it. Runs more steady after a few cranks but still dies. I flipped the engine cutoff switch off and on a few times to make the pump kick on a few times that make it fire much quicker and allowed me to rev the engine but still cuts off after about 10-25 seconds. the fuel pump is new. maybe fuel pressure regulator? any other ideas?

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post #9 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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http://vid17.photobucket.com/albums/...6/MVI_3604.mp4
this is a video of what's going on. It will run a bit longer from time to time. Do not have video of trying the cut off switch as mentioned before.

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post #10 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 03:49 PM
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Did you notice if the old spark plugs were unevenly dirty?

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post #11 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 03:51 PM
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Double check your firing order .... its easy to mix up them up when reinstalling the boots. Also after getting it running as long as you can mist some water onto each down pipe of the header, the ones with no fuel/spark will still be cold while the running cylinders should flash steam the water off.

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post #12 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 03:52 PM
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Can anyone else verify how many turns out the idle adjuster is (Yellow knob)? you might have inadvertently set it too rich/lean and may need to re-adjust it.

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post #13 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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yea, the two on the left hand side seemed to be on the worse end where as the ones on the right were dirty but not as much.



And no, i did each plug one at a time so i know the firing order is correct.

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post #14 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 04:01 PM
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Any chance the two wet one's were in the middle? A bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) can cause that... usually flooding the inner cylinders. They also go bad when they've been sitting for a while - it's a common issue with this bike.

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post #15 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Can anyone else verify how many turns out the idle adjuster is (Yellow knob)? you might have inadvertently set it too rich/lean and may need to re-adjust it.
Its not a mixture adjuster. All that adjustment does is move the throttle linkage & open the butterfly's to increase the RPM. Its the same action as cracking the throttle by hand.

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post #16 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
And no, i did each plug one at a time so i know the firing order is correct.

As long as the previous owner didn't fuck them up before hand.

Pull the vacuum line off the FPR .... if it is full of fuel & wet inside you need a new FPR .... if the line is dry the FPR is serviceable.

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post #17 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 04:12 PM
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Have you checked the air filter? Stupid question I know .... but I have seen a mouse nested bike sound similar.

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post #18 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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g00gl3it: that is exactly how they came off, from left to right as if you were sitting on the bike.
HeliMech: thanks. I will check this out tomorrow. Also, I have a stupid answer to your question. No, I have not checked the air filter haha. Didn't think about it. I'll check it tomorrow as well.

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post #19 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
Have you checked the air filter? Stupid question I know .... but I have seen a mouse nested bike sound similar.
That's a really good suggestion since the bike sat for a while.

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post #20 of 57 Old 09-28-2014, 10:34 PM
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In the video you did not try to rev it, how it behaves when you open the throttle?

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post #21 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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I can turn it just slightly and it will increase the rpms for a moment and still cuts off. If I try to crank it back quickly it just cuts off. If I do the engine cut off switch like I said before, then I can get a good rev or two out of it.

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post #22 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 02:25 AM
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It might sound dumb, but fuel light is on, so you're sure that there is enough fuel, right?

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post #23 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
I can turn it just slightly and it will increase the rpms for a moment and still cuts off. If I try to crank it back quickly it just cuts off. If I do the engine cut off switch like I said before, then I can get a good rev or two out of it.
That honestly does sound like it's not getting enough air... check that airbox for sure.

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post #24 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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The airfilter checked out ok (though there were rat droppings lol.) Im going to check out the regulator tomorrow, i wasn't prepared to take the tank off and its been raining. What specific steps do i need to do to check the regulator? Just pull the hose off the bike without attempting to start it? Or do i need to ensure that some amount of gas has attempted to flow through fairly recently by attempting to let it run a few times? It was sated before to check and see if it was wet inside, but wouldn't it has some fuel contact making it wet already?

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post #25 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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After closer inspection of the exploded diagram of the fuel tank, I noticed a couple small hoses (breather and drain) that I do not have. I am going to try and track down some diagrams to double check everything.

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post #26 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 06:27 PM
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And where is the fast idle knob set as you are trying the starts? It should be all the way in.
Bike seems starved for fuel or air.

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post #27 of 57 Old 09-29-2014, 06:34 PM
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Is it possible that some dirt or shit was in the lines that were on the bike. I noticed it came without a tank on it, so what was keeping the lines clean? From the video it definitely is missing on one or two cylinders. Would be nice to know if two exhaust headers were cold or just one.

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post #28 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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the knob is turned all the way in. I havent tried starting it again since monday. I'll give it a try today and let you know if both headers are getting hot.

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post #29 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 06:30 AM
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I'm also going with the fuel pressure regulator.

That's a known problem with those bikes.

New plugs are a must. I've had very good luck with Fuel Injector Cleaner. But you have to run several tankfuls thru it to notice any difference.

Good to see an old bike resurrected. Paint it Kawisaki Chrome Yellow.

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post #30 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 08:18 AM
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Looks like it's not firing on all the cylinders.

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post #31 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
the knob is turned all the way in. I havent tried starting it again since monday. I'll give it a try today and let you know if both headers are getting hot.
Fast idle doesn't turn. Its a push/pull knob.

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post #32 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 01:16 PM
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Mines a twisty type knob


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post #33 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Mines a twisty type knob
I think you guys are talking about two different things... There's a "fast idle" plunger type thing that most people would equate to a choke on a carb'd bike... this just bumps up idle for starting in the cold, then there's the yellow twisty knob which is the idle adjustment.

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post #34 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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well the exhaust is only getting hot on the right side of the bike, left side stays cold. so firing issue of some sort.

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post #35 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 03:10 PM
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1 and 2 plug wires swapped accidentally? One coil feeds 2 and 3, the other 1 and 2...

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post #36 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 03:19 PM
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Or could be a bad coil/plug wires. If that's the case, should be an easy fix!

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post #37 of 57 Old 10-01-2014, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
I think you guys are talking about two different things... There's a "fast idle" plunger type thing that most people would equate to a choke on a carb'd bike... this just bumps up idle for starting in the cold, then there's the yellow twisty knob which is the idle adjustment.
You are correct, mine has one of those pushy/pully knobs on it too, I don't think I've ever used it


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post #38 of 57 Old 10-02-2014, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. I double checked the exhaust. Number 1 is the only one that is staying cold. the rest are getting hot. I checked the coil it seems to be fine (wouldn't it be good if the other plug it powers seems to be working fine?) So, and correct me if I am wrong, since it is a new spark plug, the culprit seems to be the spark plug wire for cylinder 1. Also, where does the hose that comes off the fuel pressure regulator connect on the other end?

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post #39 of 57 Old 10-02-2014, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
Ok. I double checked the exhaust. Number 1 is the only one that is staying cold. the rest are getting hot. I checked the coil it seems to be fine (wouldn't it be good if the other plug it powers seems to be working fine?) So, and correct me if I am wrong, since it is a new spark plug, the culprit seems to be the spark plug wire for cylinder 1. Also, where does the hose that comes off the fuel pressure regulator connect on the other end?
Make sure that you check the smaller (trigger) wires to the coil. They are more fragile and susceptible to breaking. The hose from the FPR goes to cylinder 2 & 3, which is where it draws a vacuum from. It also continues on to the intake flapper solenoid valve (see pic).
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File Type: jpg Vacuum.JPG (48.8 KB, 19 views)

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post #40 of 57 Old 10-02-2014, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
Ok. I double checked the exhaust. Number 1 is the only one that is staying cold. the rest are getting hot. I checked the coil it seems to be fine (wouldn't it be good if the other plug it powers seems to be working fine?) So, and correct me if I am wrong, since it is a new spark plug, the culprit seems to be the spark plug wire for cylinder 1. Also, where does the hose that comes off the fuel pressure regulator connect on the other end?
I recently had a similar issue with my 02 919 #2 cylinder stayed cold but mine ran rough but ran. My suggestion is do a valve spring check. I ended up having a broken intake spring #2 LH. Maybe your bike is the second anomaly. If that is your problem be prepared to wait for parts of you dong go with used its been 11 weeks and I'm still waiting on valve springs!!

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