919 Throttle Cable Replacement - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 43 Old 11-26-2012, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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919 Throttle Cable Replacement

I bought my motionpro +3" cables almost a year ago. I can't begin to tell you how much I'm looking forward to this but here goes. Any advice?
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post #2 of 43 Old 11-26-2012, 04:03 PM
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note the routing, and before buttoning everything back up get the slack right down at the tbodies. beyond that.... good luck!

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post #3 of 43 Old 11-26-2012, 04:07 PM
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I've heard it's a pain to do... that's all I can input. Good luck! I'll keep an eye on this thread as I'm maxed out at the adjustment on the bars and might have to do something about it.

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post #4 of 43 Old 11-26-2012, 05:26 PM
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post #5 of 43 Old 11-26-2012, 06:53 PM
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Yup, they suck. Make sure you have beer in stock and no children around.

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post #6 of 43 Old 11-26-2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well, so far the job hasn't been too bad - once I decided to quit trying not to take things off and to just go with it. I unplugged everything according to the book and the air box / throttle body assembly slid out the left side of the bike fairly easily. Then I separated the air box and throttle bodies to gain easy access to the cable crank. No needle nose pliers needed for this method. The new cables are 3" over stock. I see now I could have ordered them a bit longer. Oh well.


Enough for one night. I'm at the step in the procedure that calls for single malt on the rocks with a splash.


I'll post more pics IF I get 'er back together.

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post #7 of 43 Old 11-27-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Not much man cave time tonight. The cables attached to the throttle bodies easily enough.


After assembling the air box I used a tire tool between air box and frame to ever so gently persuade the boots back onto the intake spigots.
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post #8 of 43 Old 11-29-2012, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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I just got the air box buttoned up and I must say the job went pretty much by the numbers with very little bad language involved.
The +3" cables proved to give plenty of slack for my 31" wide / 6" rise bars plus 1" risers. Here's the tag from my motionpro.com custom cable order #165592 for reference.


I followed the procedure in the manual beginning on page 5 - 53. The book was a little vague with regard to when to split the air box. The entire air box / throttle body assembly slides out the left side of the bike as a unit. Then you can remove the back half of the air box to gain access to the screws to separate the front half of the air box from the throttle bodies. There IS a recessed screw dead center of the air box that is not indicated in the book. With the air box off I could easily attach the cables with my fingers. Of course the clutch cable was a snap. I'll get some pics up in my other thread once I fab new mountings for the hand guards and windshield.

I cannot imagine doing this cable job with the throttle bodies on the bike.
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post #9 of 43 Old 11-30-2012, 12:52 AM
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Hey Ken,

Why did you need +3" cables to begin with? did you mount up some crazy ape-hangers or something? Ohhhhh...I bet this is for your Transalp project, right?

Just curious...




.

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

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post #10 of 43 Old 11-30-2012, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Shadow View Post
Hey Ken,

Why did you need +3" cables to begin with? did you mount up some crazy ape-hangers or something? Ohhhhh...I bet this is for your Transalp project, right?

Just curious...
Yep. That's three inches not 30.



The bars pulled the stock throttle cables to their absolute limit, even causing contact with the brake lever when turned all the way left. I just wanted a little safety / adjustment room and the ability to add risers or different bars I might like better. The whole idea is to keep this 55yr old back straight and these wrists and thumbs comfy on long days in the saddle.
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post #11 of 43 Old 02-01-2013, 03:25 PM
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I'm just about complete in replacing my 919 throttle cables. I removed the whole airbox and throttle bodies out to the left of the bike like the instructions say. The Honda FSM instructions are excellent.

However, where should this hose be going? (pointing to with finger)


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post #12 of 43 Old 02-01-2013, 09:24 PM
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When i did my throttle cables i didn't remove anything. I just disconnected the cables and replaced them. Off the top of my head I can't think of where that hose goes. Where does the other end go? Only thing I can think of is the pairs valves. Maybe? I don't have a manual to refer to. Don't ask how I've ever done anything to my bike. Here a current picture of one of mine.

image-3128030839.jpg

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post #13 of 43 Old 02-02-2013, 03:57 AM
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As mentioned, it must be for the pair valve? does the other end go into the airbox?........Ive just removed my pair valve off my spare bike, but, that pipe went all the way to the front of the bike!

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post #14 of 43 Old 02-02-2013, 07:23 AM
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Looks like the hose that goes between the Pair Solenoid and the Airbox. If that's what it is it should connect where the arrow is.
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post #15 of 43 Old 02-02-2013, 11:30 AM
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I'm going to reply here to your post from Karl's valve check thread, MM and Shaun. The throttle cable is out of adjustment at the bars even before I swapped to the taller fatbars (only 3/4" higher). I do bleep my throttle at every downshift, could that have caused the cable to wear faster?

I'm looking at the pictures on the thread and its looking like there is no adjustments on the throttle body side, is this correct?

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----------------
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- '01 RC51 SP1 (Sold)
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post #16 of 43 Old 02-02-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
I'm going to reply here to your post from Karl's valve check thread, MM and Shaun. The throttle cable is out of adjustment at the bars even before I swapped to the taller fatbars (only 3/4" higher). I do bleep my throttle at every downshift, could that have caused the cable to wear faster?

I'm looking at the pictures on the thread and its looking like there is no adjustments on the throttle body side, is this correct?
Usually what wears out the throttle cables (or any cables) is lack of lubrication. More so in the wet.

There are adjustments at the throttle body side but its kind of a pain to get to.

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post #17 of 43 Old 02-02-2013, 01:50 PM
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I do the blip throttle thing on downshifts as well. I guess it would wear a little more since they'd be getting moved more. I never, ever lubed mine. The only reason I changed them was because my throttle would stick on a little and it failed tech inspection. Otherwise I'd still have them on. I was used to it. They were like that when we went to my st.helens. .

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post #18 of 43 Old 02-10-2013, 03:55 PM
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Here is the tube coming off of the airbox. Unsure where this ought to be connected to?

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post #19 of 43 Old 04-12-2013, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I ran across my MotionPro invoice with all the numbers in case anyone wants to order +3" cables.
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post #20 of 43 Old 04-12-2013, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Phenix View Post
I ran across my MotionPro invoice with all the numbers in case anyone wants to order +3" cables.
Why would anyone want 3" longer throttle cables? I'm confused.

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post #21 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 12:14 PM
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Thanks Ken! I'll be using this info soon since I need longer throttle cables.

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post #22 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post

Why would anyone want 3" longer throttle cables? I'm confused.
Raised bars maybe

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post #23 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 04:53 PM
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^Guy probably gets so much crap from other cruisers.. until he leaves them in the dust. That's damn radical, throw a round headlight in place of the fairing and you've got a bad-ass hot rod.

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- '01 RC51 SP1 (Sold)
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post #24 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 05:11 PM
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I started reading this and groaned. I was not looking forward to that amount of work to replace my clutch cable. Then my sinuses cleared for a second, clarity hit, HOLY CRAP! Hopefully the clutch cable is a lot less difficult.

if you love your motorcycle, set it free.. if it comes back and hits you.. you highsided
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post #25 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
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Raised bars maybe
Good point.

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post #26 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
I started reading this and groaned. I was not looking forward to that amount of work to replace my clutch cable. Then my sinuses cleared for a second, clarity hit, HOLY CRAP! Hopefully the clutch cable is a lot less difficult.
Super easy! Disconnect both ends, tape the top of the new one to the bottom of the old one. Pull old one out from the top. Voila!

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post #27 of 43 Old 04-13-2013, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
Why would anyone want 3" longer throttle cables? I'm confused.
Patience, Grasshopper. When your back has 55 years on it and you still want to bang out thousand mile days, you rig your bike for the most comfortable upright rider position possible.





Oh, and the owner of that 1250 Bandit should be taken out and maimed.




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post #28 of 43 Old 04-14-2013, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
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Super easy! Disconnect both ends, tape the top of the new one to the bottom of the old one. Pull old one out from the top. Voila!
That's about what I did used a zip tie to hold the new one to the old one also had to remove the seat side covers and raise the tank

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post #29 of 43 Old 04-26-2014, 10:50 AM
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Hello there... let me refresh this topic a bit... as I am now at the same point as you were Ken at the beggining - I have dismounted all cables and stuff as you did on your first photo, but I simply can not take out that whole thing :/ I can not detach the rubber hoses from the cylinder head :/ Do you think that because my bike is 11 yrs old and those things have nerever been dismounted before, therefore this rubber won't go off? if don't detach it I can not pull the hole body/casing out on the left side... any ideas how to move those old hoses?
Please help me as I am already desperate, the "single malt" doesn't help anymore, and I am already thinking of cutting those rubber hoses in order to take it out (but new ones aren't cheap...)

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post #30 of 43 Old 04-26-2014, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I can not detach the rubber hoses from the cylinder head
Take the clamps off the throttle body spigots and then pry the throttle body assembly off with a tire tool.

Put some lube or soap on the boots and press them back on with aforementioned tire tool.



. . . . . and get some better scotch!

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post #31 of 43 Old 04-28-2014, 01:29 PM
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Hell Yeah!!!
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post #32 of 43 Old 04-28-2014, 01:51 PM
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All I know is after looking these pics, I'm going home and lube my throttle cables.

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post #33 of 43 Old 04-28-2014, 02:00 PM
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You do that definately

Though my cable just snapped, because of... being 11 yrs old?


It took me whole week to get to this point... and now I gotta put it all back together...byt I ain't got any tire tool or somethin alike...

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post #34 of 43 Old 04-28-2014, 02:11 PM
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Hmmm... just found out that holding to the tail grip while kicking the airbox to push it back to it's place works, as well... :P

btw. I could not find any single malt so I used an ordinary polish beer:
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post #35 of 43 Old 04-28-2014, 10:03 PM
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You went all out on this. I didn't even pull my tank right off when I did my cables. Long needle nosed pliers are a must tho.

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post #36 of 43 Old 04-28-2014, 10:45 PM
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Sounds like a valve adjustment is more fun.

So from what I'm gathering,

Easy way is to pull everything off, tank, air box, throttle bodies, then easily reach in and replace the cables.

Hard way is to leave everything on and use long pliers and bitch and @#$ a lot?

Not sure if the glass is half full or half empty.
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post #37 of 43 Old 04-29-2014, 01:44 AM
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Rickard I totally have no idea how you managed to unhook those cables from the drum - and what is 20 times harder - how did you manage to place the new ones... even with best pliers in the world and having extra mini hands I would not manage...

As far as it goes for my way I simply did what Ken described and it all worked perfectly. Of course now I have to put back together all those hoses, connectors, bolts and other things I dismounted but the access to the cables was perfect - it's just the time you need to spend on dismounting all of this... But as Ken already pointed out in some way, time spent in the man cave is priceless

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post #38 of 43 Old 04-29-2014, 08:04 AM
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I'm anal with cleaning so for me pulling everything apart opens up a lot of options for cleaning those hard to reach places.
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post #39 of 43 Old 04-29-2014, 08:27 AM
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I'm anal with cleaning so for me pulling everything apart opens up a lot of options for cleaning those hard to reach places.
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post #40 of 43 Old 04-29-2014, 10:53 AM
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I lubed the throttle cables and clutch cable last weekend, so I can 'hopefully' avoid this monumental task... or at least put it off as long as possible!
I like working on my bike but that doesn't look like much fun!

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