919 Rear Axle Nut Thoughts - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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919 Rear Axle Nut Thoughts

Why the heck is there no cotter pin? A castle nut is common for a reason.

Sheesh. Why have one more thing to worry about?

Ok rant off. Still loving the bike and looking forward to a great year of sport riding and touring.

Some ride reports:
http://leroylanes.blogspot.com/

On two wheels:
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post #2 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 09:08 PM
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What do you mean?

I've had ZERO issues with the rear axle nuts. That's including the fact that I don't torque to factory spec as that's too tight.

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post #3 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alekkas View Post
Why the heck is there no cotter pin? A castle nut is common for a reason. Sheesh. Why have one more thing to worry about? Ok rant off. Still loving the bike and looking forward to a great year of sport riding and touring.
It has a self-tensioning jam nut, that's why.

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post #4 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
It has a self-tensioning jam nut, that's why.
Ok, so something to make me feel more at ease. Never heard of that to my knowledge. What is a self tensioning jam nut and how do I know if the PO left it on the bike? (BTW - sounds like something that would cause discomfort if you squat down real low )


I hear you Pvster - I am sure there will be no issues as mass cases of occurrence would have been reported. I'll let it go and still sleep at night but, you know, should have been there IMO.

Thanks for any info.

Some ride reports:
http://leroylanes.blogspot.com/

On two wheels:
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post #5 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 10:58 PM
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It works like a Nylock nut, only instead of relying on the friction of a nylon ring at the top (and technically supposed to be replaced after every time you take it off,) there's two little metal leaves in the top that thread into the axle's threads and provide both friction and downward pressure to keep the nut in place. If you take off the axle nut and look at it, you'll see them. You'll also note that the nut will only spin back on the axle so far by hand before it stops and you have to use tools - that's how it's supposed to work, the threads on the axle have contacted the metal leaves and now it needs more torque to be moved.

I'm looking at mine tonight because I have both wheels off.


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post #6 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
I'm looking at mine tonight because I have both wheels off.

Looks fine to me???



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post #7 of 27 Old 04-01-2015, 11:54 PM
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[/QUOTE]

Penn and Teller?

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post #8 of 27 Old 04-02-2015, 12:15 AM
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Penn and Teller?
SW Motech center stand and a Goodyear jackstand under the Givi crash bars. Don't need a paddock stand.

At the point the picture was taken, the wheels were in the back of the truck on their way to the shop to get new valve stems put in... after utterly failing at doing it with manual tire equipment.

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post #9 of 27 Old 04-02-2015, 12:21 AM
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Anyway, here's the actual axle nut off my 919. You can see the two leaves or fingers sticking out into the thread cavity area of the nut. (Pic is clickable)


In terms of stuff to release to the general public to use, this type of jam nut is superior to the castellated nut and cotter pin by not a small margin. It's been the new standard for sportbikes and now others since the 1990s.

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post #10 of 27 Old 04-02-2015, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
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Well that's some good info (and incredible art work too Google it). Thanks to all.

Some ride reports:
http://leroylanes.blogspot.com/

On two wheels:
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post #11 of 27 Old 06-29-2017, 03:30 PM
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Off to the hardware store to buy a socket for that rear axle nut.
Previous other Honda bikes did not go bigger than 24mm. Logical next step would be 26mm. But, oh No...that would be too easy.
Good thing I checked the tool kit specs. 27mm.
Saved me an extra trip to the hardware store???
Like anyone has ever been able to go just once on any project.
Will let you know...................

27mm sold out [email protected]#$%^&*(
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post #12 of 27 Old 06-29-2017, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddogvet View Post
Off to the hardware store to buy a socket for that rear axle nut.
Previous other Honda bikes did not go bigger than 24mm. Logical next step would be 26mm. But, oh No...that would be too easy.
Good thing I checked the tool kit specs. 27mm.
Saved me an extra trip to the hardware store???
Like anyone has ever been able to go just once on any project.
Will let you know...................

27mm sold out [email protected]#$%^&*(
If you are in a jam, check to see if they have any impact driver suitable sockets (typically the black oxide finished).
I've had to do that in the past re a must have now purchase.
Or a deep socket instead.

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post #13 of 27 Old 06-29-2017, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
If you are in a jam, check to see if they have any impact driver suitable sockets (typically the black oxide finished).
I've had to do that in the past re a must have now purchase.
Or a deep socket instead.
OR
Try to get a 1-1/16 inch socket.
The difference between 27 mm and 1-1/16th is splitting hairs.
Literally.
1-1/16 in is a mere 1/2 a thousands of an inch less than 27 mm.

OR
Look for a 3/4 drive 27 mm socket then use a 3/4 male x 1/2 female adapter.

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post #14 of 27 Old 06-30-2017, 06:42 AM
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Thank-you, you guys are the best.

This [email protected]#$%^& chain in messing with my mind. Although this is not my first chain installation, it sure feels like it.
Okay, thought I had ordered the the 530 precut 114 link DID as in the catalog; it seems that is not the case.

Installed the masterlink and Duh! find the chain to be too long. (Note to self: try to find another 530 master link before the holiday)
Yup, on the box it states 120. So by my math..... 120 links (with the master, that should mean removing seven links to get it down to 113 plus the 'to be obtained' master should put me right at 114.
Instead of cutting (as I would normally do..... I thought math was easy for me........) I actually pushed the axle forward to get an idea of where I should be. Looks like if I remove four (4) = 116 and add the master, that would put me at 117 links. Since this recently purchased bike does not look like it has been elongated. Whassup??!

Now this is with the axle all but fully forward, which does not leave much room for error.
Measure twice cut once, I know I know.
Some help here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.

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post #15 of 27 Old 06-30-2017, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddogvet View Post
Thank-you, you guys are the best.

This [email protected]#$%^& chain in messing with my mind. Although this is not my first chain installation, it sure feels like it.
Okay, thought I had ordered the the 530 precut 114 link DID as in the catalog; it seems that is not the case.

Installed the masterlink and Duh! find the chain to be too long. (Note to self: try to find another 530 master link before the holiday)
Yup, on the box it states 120. So by my math..... 120 links (with the master, that should mean removing seven links to get it down to 113 plus the 'to be obtained' master should put me right at 114.
Instead of cutting (as I would normally do..... I thought math was easy for me........) I actually pushed the axle forward to get an idea of where I should be. Looks like if I remove four (4) = 116 and add the master, that would put me at 117 links. Since this recently purchased bike does not look like it has been elongated. Whassup??!

Now this is with the axle all but fully forward, which does not leave much room for error.
Measure twice cut once, I know I know.
Some help here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.
I never bother counting links, just adjust the rear wheel as far forward as it will go, wrap the chain around, pull it as tight as you can and figure out how many links you can cut off and still get the master link to attach...

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post #16 of 27 Old 06-30-2017, 08:52 AM
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Badmoon, that sounds like good advice.

Only caveat, say for another nube like me that might read this down the line...... maybe not All the way forward but leave yourself some play so that when that 17t drive sprocket goes on, there is some extra chain to accommodate.

Off to pick up a master link. The dealer actually has one in stock. Wu Hu!!!1

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post #17 of 27 Old 06-30-2017, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
Anyway, here's the actual axle nut off my 919. You can see the two leaves or fingers sticking out into the thread cavity area of the nut. (Pic is clickable)


In terms of stuff to release to the general public to use, this type of jam nut is superior to the castellated nut and cotter pin by not a small margin. It's been the new standard for sportbikes and now others since the 1990s.
It's called a Fuji Nut

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post #18 of 27 Old 06-30-2017, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddogvet View Post
Badmoon, that sounds like good advice.

Only caveat, say for another nube like me that might read this down the line...... maybe not All the way forward but leave yourself some play so that when that 17t drive sprocket goes on, there is some extra chain to accommodate.

Off to pick up a master link. The dealer actually has one in stock. Wu Hu!!!1
A Master Link or Riveted Link ?
Not a subtle difference....................

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post #19 of 27 Old 07-05-2017, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
A Master Link or Riveted Link ?
Not a subtle difference....................
The link you use to join your chain is called the master link... regardless. There are different kinds of master links, the two most common being a clip type master link, or a rivet type master link.

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
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post #20 of 27 Old 07-05-2017, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
The link you use to join your chain is called the master link... regardless. There are different kinds of master links, the two most common being a clip type master link, or a rivet type master link.
I guess different reference materials say different things.
Regardless, what remains relevant is whether the link the gent got is clip or rivet type.

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post #21 of 27 Old 07-05-2017, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddogvet View Post
Thank-you, you guys are the best.

This [email protected]#$%^& chain in messing with my mind. Although this is not my first chain installation, it sure feels like it.
Okay, thought I had ordered the the 530 precut 114 link DID as in the catalog; it seems that is not the case.

Installed the masterlink and Duh! find the chain to be too long. (Note to self: try to find another 530 master link before the holiday)
Yup, on the box it states 120. So by my math..... 120 links (with the master, that should mean removing seven links to get it down to 113 plus the 'to be obtained' master should put me right at 114.
Instead of cutting (as I would normally do..... I thought math was easy for me........) I actually pushed the axle forward to get an idea of where I should be. Looks like if I remove four (4) = 116 and add the master, that would put me at 117 links. Since this recently purchased bike does not look like it has been elongated. Whassup??!

Now this is with the axle all but fully forward, which does not leave much room for error.
Measure twice cut once, I know I know.
Some help here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
I never bother counting links, just adjust the rear wheel as far forward as it will go, wrap the chain around, pull it as tight as you can and figure out how many links you can cut off and still get the master link to attach...
I remember having to stop in West Virginia for a new chain on the way home from California, The Honda Tech pushed the rear axle all the way forward, removed the excess links, and replaced the chain. Everything looked good with plenty of adjustment for the future until we got it off the lift/center stand and I sat on it. It was so far forward that the tire was rubbing on the inside of the hugger(Pyramid Plastics). The answer now that the chain was cut to length, was to put in not one, but 2 more master links(all three were riveted).

Just a word to the wise...............plan ahead.



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post #22 of 27 Old 07-05-2017, 02:35 PM
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The real word to the wise is don't waste money on 530 chains for your 919 when you can get more performance for less money with a quality 520 Conversion

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post #23 of 27 Old 07-05-2017, 02:48 PM
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The real word to the wise is don't waste money on 530 chains for your 919 when you can get more performance for less money with a quality 520 Conversion
A shameless plug from a knowledgeable source who knows his shit!

Good suggestion LDH.



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post #24 of 27 Old 07-05-2017, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
The real word to the wise is don't waste money on 530 chains for your 919 when you can get more performance for less money with a quality 520 Conversion
Some of the wisest $$ I spent on my 919 was the 520 kit.
And I'm amazed at how well the hard anodized aluminum rear sprocket has held up.

AND....the above referred to quality means chain, sprocketS, and care of same.

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post #25 of 27 Old 07-28-2017, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Birddogvet View Post
Thank-you, you guys are the best.

This [email protected]#$%^& chain in messing with my mind. Although this is not my first chain installation, it sure feels like it.
Okay, thought I had ordered the the 530 precut 114 link DID as in the catalog; it seems that is not the case.
Coming back late just to throw something in for the archives and the people who will be reading this in the future: Extremely early 919s don't use 114 link chains, they use 112. My 2002 919 is in the 1500-block of production and with stock gears a 114 link chain was literally just at the end of the available adjustment range. I've checked this against a few other stock early model year 2002 919s I've come across and within a couple hundred of my serial number either way they seem to be 112 link bikes. I suspect there was a running change to the swingarm on the 919; I'll find out eventually when I swap mine out for a powdercoated one I bought off of (IIRC) a 2004.

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post #26 of 27 Old 07-31-2017, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
It works like a Nylock nut, <yada yada>

I'm looking at mine tonight because I have both wheels off.

What kind of cases are those? Any details would be appreciated.

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post #27 of 27 Old 08-01-2017, 12:11 PM
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What kind of cases are those? Any details would be appreciated.
Those are Givi E21 cases on SW-Motech detachable racks.

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