112 links v. 114 links - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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112 links v. 114 links

I have been searching on this & apart from quicker steering due to the shorter wheelbase, what are the other effects of going from 114 to 112 links? Will I lose a bit of rear traction?

I currently have the rear apart as I was getting new tires installed. I tested the chain by folding a link & I can easily get by with 112 links with plenty of slack even at the closest to the swingarm pivot setting.

Opinions? I ask because I commute in the winters here in NJ & I even though I ride very conservatively due to lack of tire grip since at 20F the tires never really reach their operating temps. So I don't want to land up in an extremely quick turning motorcycle at the expense of much needed rear traction.

Unless of course my theory is extremely wrong & you can just tell me to suck it up & do the conversion.

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post #2 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 04:33 PM
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I did notice it steered a little quicker when I went to 112, my opinion it was noticeable but I wouldnt say "drastic"


I don't think it's going to effect your rear traction at all at highway speeds.

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post #3 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 04:45 PM
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you wont loose any traction....

that stated put the chain and sprockets on the bike and wrap the long chain around and make sure you can actually do 112 links before cutting the chain.

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post #4 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 05:06 PM
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Theoretically, the longer the distance from the crank to the axle, the better the traction, no?

Since going to a 17t sprocket kind of does the same thing, I've been wondering about this too. What about how the rear shock works?

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post #5 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 05:17 PM
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All it does is bring the rear wheel in a little closer which greatly increases the life span of your chain. How? By giving the adjusters more room to adjust the chain. With 114 links, you're about 1/3rd-1/2 way through the adjusters with a brand new chain. A 112 will cure that issue.

a 112 link will not adversely affect traction, wheel distance, blah blah blah. Its one link for crying out loud. its a bit less than what a full adjustment range gives you on the 919. If it was an issue, the Honda engineers wouldn't of designed the adjusters to have that much space to work with.

If you can fit in 112 links, DO IT.

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post #6 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, just what I thought. Going to do it now.

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post #7 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 05:24 PM
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There were a few cases where Honda allowed me to warranty chains that were out of the adjustment range within a few thousand miles of purchase.

I'm not so sure the longer chain did not make the bike less likely to wheelie or stoppie as easily as the shorter chain/wheelbase will, but for 98% of the riders out there, you can't tell any really difference.

Other than running out of adjustment.....

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post #8 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 05:38 PM
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How does where the wheel is in the adjustment range effect chain wear given it always has the right amount of slack?

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post #9 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch View Post
How does where the wheel is in the adjustment range effect chain wear given it always has the right amount of slack?
the fact that at 112 links or w/e it is, your axle can be as far forward as possible in the adjustment range. at +2 links you axle is essentially one link further back towards the rear end of the adjustment.

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post #10 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 08:47 PM
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You will probably affect your steering more if you raise or lower your fork legs in the triples to be honest... It can make turn in greater or less. Traction will only me affected really by surface, throttle control, and your contact patch (including tire condition)

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post #11 of 24 Old 01-01-2014, 11:00 PM
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I've been running the 112-link chain for about 30,000 miles now. I havent noticed any change in steering, traction or any other specification...the only thing that has changed was that I actually have a full range of adjustment now. That makes it worth doing all by itself.

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

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post #12 of 24 Old 01-02-2014, 12:26 AM
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Ive been told that the difference in running the wheel all the way forward to all the way back is 50lb in spring rate.

Im running 110 link on a 15t front sprocket.

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post #13 of 24 Old 01-02-2014, 02:36 AM
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My thought would be the closer the rear axle is to the drive sprocket would make it a bit more crucial as far as alignment. I really don't think 110, 112 or 114 is going to make any kind of difference. I run a DID X-ring chain at 114 links and If I ever have to I will just cut the chain down in the future. I put almost 19,000 miles on the stock chain with very little adjustment in that time period and I ride it like I stoled it. Fact is, keep it lubed and in some cases I think people run their chains too tight, Honda says 1 3/8 slack and DID says 1". I run in between. You don't want your chain so tight that it binds and I would think robs horse power or too loose as to it jumping teeth depending on the condition of your sprockets. This is just all my 2 cents.

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post #14 of 24 Old 01-02-2014, 03:59 AM
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I had a similar experience while changing the chain on tour. The dealer went to 112 links with stock gearing and all was well when it was on the the lift on its center stand. More adjustment and better chain life was to be expected.

When off the lift and weighted, the rear tire was rubbing on the inside of my aftermarket hugger(Pyramid Plastics). I ended up with two more riveted master links to solve the problem.

Perhaps the stock hugger is not an issue since it has been converted by others without incident.



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post #15 of 24 Old 01-02-2014, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
the fact that at 112 links or w/e it is, your axle can be as far forward as possible in the adjustment range. at +2 links you axle is essentially one link further back towards the rear end of the adjustment.
That I understand, but as long as you have the correct slack, I don't see it effecting chain wear. How does it matter if it's at the front or back of the adjustment.

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post #16 of 24 Old 01-02-2014, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch View Post
That I understand, but as long as you have the correct slack, I don't see it effecting chain wear. How does it matter if it's at the front or back of the adjustment.
It doesn't affect chain wear. It just means that now you have more range of adjustment for your chain. So, in theory, if you maintain your chain properly; you can essentially run it for longer since now there is enough range of adjustment to let the chain fully stretch. With 114 links, you can reach the end of adjustment range before your chain wears out.

EDIT: I cut the chain last night & as per my test fit, it fits perfectly. The adjustors are all the way towards the pivot & I have just enough slack.

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post #17 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 09:43 AM
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Just want to clear something up, is this 112 links with or without the Master Link?

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post #18 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07919Dave View Post
Just want to clear something up, is this 112 links with or without the Master Link?
Actually, we would usually buy 120 links and cut them to length. But, if you bought 114 links, it was 114 (dirtbikes) plus the master link.

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post #19 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 01:22 PM
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I'm asking if I am cutting so the total amount of links to include the master equals 112 or am I cutting to 112 links then adding a master?

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post #20 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 01:33 PM
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I think that the master link is only one link, so it would have to include the master link or it would be an odd number. 114 link chain is 113 links plus the master.

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post #21 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 01:35 PM
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Link plates are inside-outside-inside-outside so there has to be an even total.

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post #22 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 07919Dave View Post
I'm asking if I am cutting so the total amount of links to include the master equals 112 or am I cutting to 112 links then adding a master?
Instead of counting links, get a 120 link chain, install it after you've moved the wheel forward and note where it needs to have links removed. Just installed one the other day on my brother's CRF250X the other day this way.

Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut down the rivet(s) flush with the plate before using your chain breaking tool.

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post #23 of 24 Old 08-01-2014, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07919Dave View Post
Just want to clear something up, is this 112 links with or without the Master Link?
Do this, take any random "link" & mark it with a sharpie. Now start counting the no of links the next link after that marked link & end by counting the marked link. You should land up with 114 stock. To reduce to 112, you need to cut one of the links off. Plenty of videos on YouTube & articles which demonstrate how to do this. Make sure you buy a new master link; rivet style or connecting link style.

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post #24 of 24 Old 08-02-2014, 07:46 AM
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[QUOTE=Pvster;690233]All it does is bring the rear wheel in a little closer which greatly increases the life span of your chain. How? By giving the adjusters more room to adjust the chain. With 114 links, you're about 1/3rd-1/2 way through the adjusters with a brand new chain. A 112 will cure that issue.
QUOTE]

If you want to run a 114 L chain you don't have to throw the chain out
when the adjusters max out. Just chop 2 links off of the chain. Just check the pin to pin distance and make sure the chain stretch is in spec.
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