'07 919 fork respring & revalve - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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'07 919 fork respring & revalve

So, I've had the parts for a year or so and finally decided to install the springs and valves in my forks, here's the build. Also, here are three worthwhile threads with some good info/conversations regarding fork upgrades for your reading pleasure.

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...9er-29198.html

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...19s-29154.html

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ion-26485.html

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post #2 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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The first step was go get the bike properly supported:
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post #3 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Then I loosened the top tripple clamp and cracked the fork caps loose. Make sure you have backed out the preload adjusters and rebound setting.
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post #4 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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A little heat as it was only about 30* outside...
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post #5 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Can't forget refreshments...
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post #6 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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The parts came from the one and only LDH , all Ohlins.No pic of the springs and spacers... He did cut the spacers to length, one less thing to think about...
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post #7 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Next I removed the front wheel, self explanatory. At this point I cracked loose the allen bolts at the bottom of the fork leg that hold the damper assembly in the fork leg. Remove the fork tubes, loosen the caps and let them drain for a few. The OEM oil was pretty clean, I have about 8k miles on her so far.
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post #8 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:01 PM
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makes you wonder why you didn't do it sooner, doesn't it?

I think LDH needs to put as much effort into promoting fork rebuild as he does for 9er shock upgrade.

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post #9 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Next I put the first one in the vice and removed the fork cap. Don't forget to attach a piece of wire or something the the damper tube for future use.
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post #10 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the fork leg at this point, there will be some more oil to drain, place a pan underneath so you don't make a mess on the floor. After the bolt is removed, take the damper assembly out of the fork.
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post #11 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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The "oil lock" is an aluminum cap on the end of the damper, these slid right off of the dampers in my forks but on the "practice" set I had it was a pain to get off. I had to place the damper assembly in a clamp that was a little larger diameter than the damper tube and tap it off. Just be prepared to have to play with them to get them off.
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post #12 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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The OEM springs and spacers next to the Ohlins springs and PVC spacers.
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post #13 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Next: Removing the compression valve assembly from the damper tube. There is a wire clip that is revealed when you push the valve into the tube. Remove the clip and pull the valve assembly out.
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post #14 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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The shaft at the ends of the valves, both compression and rebound, are flared and need to be filed to remove the nuts. You will file part of the nut as well as the shaft. What I did was file until I hit the nut a bit, then loosen and then tighten the nut, this will expose a bur that you can file further. Take your time, if the nut feels like it's really tight when you're loosening it, file some more. I thought I had better pics of what they look like after they're filed, the bottom pic is before filing, the shaft will be flush with the nut when you're done and part of the nut will have been removed. Make sure you clean the metal filings out of shafts that you have filed! Once the nut is off, the Ohlins valve parts slide off of their packing and onto the shaft as per the Ohlins instructions, very easy.
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post #15 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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New copper washer/gasket for the allen bolt that holds the damper tube in the fork leg. I did not replace the O rings on the fork caps as they were in good condition, I did have replacements ready just in case.
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post #16 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Next, I put the fork in the vice and added some oil and proceeded to pump the damper tube and slider to bleed any air that was trapped. I set the oil level at 140mm as per LDH. I then added a zip tie to be able to check travel and a wrap of tape @ absolute mechanical bottom.
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post #17 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:49 PM
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Sooooooo bookmarked.

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post #18 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Repeat for the other side. I did buy a fork oil level adjustment tool, it made life easier and was worth the money spent in my book. I adjusted the oil level with the fork in the vice, slider compressed, without the spring in the tube.
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post #19 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re-install the forks in the tripples, as per FSM, re-install the front wheel, and go ride! I hope this helps others, it's really not that difficult if you take your time. I think if you do your own maintenance such as oil changes, changing tires/chain &sprockets and can handle basic hand tools you can do this with no problem.

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post #20 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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If I've forgotten anything or if you have questions, please post them here and I'll answer to the best of my ability. Just bear in mind, I'm no expert, this is the first set of cartridge forks I've ever gotten into. And do take the time to read and re-read the 3 links I added to the first post, there's alot of good info there.

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post #21 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
makes you wonder why you didn't do it sooner, doesn't it?
Yep! It was not as difficult as I thought it would be, that's the reason for this thread. I hope it will help others to just get the parts and do it.

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post #22 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Sooooooo bookmarked.
Cool! I hope this thread is helpful!

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post #23 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:21 PM
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Not sure if it's covered in Ohlins instructions but this is something very important to check during the valve assembly:

Make sure that comp and rebound check valve shim is free and not pinched by the the check valve seat prior applying the final torque to the nut on rebound and bolt on compression valve assemblies.
Move it up with your finger and it should return in it's place by check valve waive washer.
Very important step.

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post #24 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Not sure if it's covered in Ohlins instructions but this is something very important to check during the valve assembly:

Make sure that comp and rebound check valve shim is free and not pinched by the the check valve seat prior applying the final torque to the nut on rebound and bolt on compression valve assemblies.
Move it up with your finger and it should return in it's place by check valve waive washer.
Very important step.
Yes it is! I did check that upon assembly. I'm not a technical writer by trade so I apologize for that and expect more replies (hopefully not too many....) regarding my procedure...

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post #25 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Yes it is! I did check that upon assembly. I'm not a technical writer by trade so I apologize for that and expect more replies (hopefully not too many....) regarding my procedure...
your write up is great.
Now we need to set up a date for our spring ride already. I can't take this winter much longer, need a destination and all day event. Aimlessly rode 140 miles in the woods/local roads/local state parks this morning and froze my ass off but it still was fun

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post #26 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
your write up is great.
Now we need to set up a date for our spring ride already. I can't take this winter much longer, need a destination and all day event. Aimlessly rode 140 miles in the woods/local roads/local state parks this morning and froze my ass off but it still was fun
I agree, we need to start thinking about a ride soon! I put about 50 miles in yesterday to try the new setup, it was chilly on the way home but worth it! The new front end is incredible and I can't wait to get a few full days in on it.

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post #27 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
I agree, we need to start thinking about a ride soon! I put about 50 miles in yesterday to try the new setup, it was chilly on the way home but worth it! The new front end is incredible and I can't wait to get a few full days in on it.
Nice effort, pics and write up rmb.
From here on in, it's enjoy.

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post #28 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44

Nice effort, pics and write up rmb.
From here on in, it's enjoy.
Thanks!

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post #29 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 03:22 PM
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Also don't dry yourself nuts with that zip tie.
The way 9er forks are designed, they will never bottom out to absolute mechanical bottom due to the oil lock piece. If you would removed that oil lock than you would really could dial it in. However is not recommended for street use as you never know what road surface you can encounter out there, hence manuf. installed oil lock.

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post #30 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Also don't dry yourself nuts with that zip tie.
The way 9er forks are designed, they will never bottom out to absolute mechanical bottom due to the oil lock piece. If you would removed that oil lock than you would really could dial it in. However is not recommended for street use as you never know what road surface you can encounter out there, hence manuf. installed oil lock.
Anyone doing serious sporting riding, especially any track days, needs to know where the mechanical bottom out is, because that is the only way you know where the hydraulic cushion zone is, the hydraulic cushion that has a tendency to hold the fork fully compressed because of a side effect of how the cushioning works.
So, the idea is to keep the front end out of the hydraulic cushion zone.
The zip tie is your friend.
It tells you lots.
But it is only an accurate indicator when referenced against mechanical bottoming out.

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post #31 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Anyone doing serious sporting riding, especially any track days, needs to know where the mechanical bottom out is, because that is the only way you know where the hydraulic cushion zone is, the hydraulic cushion that has a tendency to hold the fork fully compressed because of a side effect of how the cushioning works.
So, the idea is to keep the front end out of the hydraulic cushion zone.
The zip tie is your friend.
It tells you lots.
But it is only an accurate indicator when referenced against mechanical bottoming out.
I didn't say zip tie is not needed, I said don't drive yourself nuts trying to get it ideal.
Also anyone who is serious about track days should have this oil lock removed/modified to free up about 10mm of usable suspension travel.
Again, I wouldn't recommend this for the bike which is primarily ridden on public roads.
For track use, oil lock is your precise tuned-in oil level, no altering of comp damping needed/desired with this piece as it robs some of your suspension travel
In fact, oil lock prevents you from knowing if oil height is right or if bottoming is being prevented by the lock.
PS. rmb, didn't mean to mess up your thread.

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post #32 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
I didn't say zip tie is not needed, I said don't drive yourself nuts trying to get it ideal.
Also anyone who is serious about track days should have this oil lock removed/modified to free up about 10mm of usable suspension travel.
Again, I wouldn't recommend this for the bike which is primarily ridden on public roads.
For track use, oil lock is your precise tuned-in oil level, no altering of comp damping needed/desired as it robs some of your suspension travel
Since when is ideal knowing where it is ?

But like you said, absolute madness to remove the hydraulic cushion on any street ridden bike.
On a track bike, take it off and pick up some more controllable and effective travel.
No dual purpose bike that is mostly rode ridden should be without the hydraulic cushion.

No one seriously racing on prepped machinery uses oil lock as an aid.
It's a vice to get rid of.

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post #33 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
I didn't say zip tie is not needed, I said don't drive yourself nuts trying to get it ideal.
Also anyone who is serious about track days should have this oil lock removed/modified to free up about 10mm of usable suspension travel.
Again, I wouldn't recommend this for the bike which is primarily ridden on public roads.
For track use, oil lock is your precise tuned-in oil level, no altering of comp damping needed/desired with this piece as it robs some of your suspension travel
In fact, oil lock prevents you from knowing if oil height is right or if bottoming is being prevented by the lock.
PS. rmb, didn't mean to mess up your thread.
no offence taken, I was kinda wondering how it worked anyway, thanks.

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post #34 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 06:14 PM
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Very nice write up. I wonder how that would compare to just a spring replacement. Around how much do those valves go for anyway? Would you say it's worth it?

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post #35 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boogunoogun View Post
Very nice write up. I wonder how that would compare to just a spring replacement. Around how much do those valves go for anyway? Would you say it's worth it?
Thanks. I'm sure springs alone would be a big improvement, I'm not technical enough to comment on the valves but my impression from what I've learned is there would still be a pogo stick effect, ie, not enough dampening without the valves. I'm sure other members can comment further on the valves. I don't want to comment on price in case the pricing has changed since I bought my parts about a year ago, you can contact LDH or Dan Kyle Racing directly.

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post #36 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Thanks. I'm sure springs alone would be a big improvement, I'm not technical enough to comment on the valves but my impression from what I've learned is there would still be a pogo stick effect, ie, not enough dampening without the valves. I'm sure other members can comment further on the valves. I don't want to comment on price in case the pricing has changed since I bought my parts about a year ago, you can contact LDH or Dan Kyle Racing directly.
One has a choice of different continent or different world.
Springs and oil being a continental change.
Full kit being a different world.

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post #37 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
One has a choice of different continent or different world.
Springs and oil being a continental change.
Full kit being a different world.
I love my otherworldly Ohlins front and rear on this bike. What a huge improvement. A BIG thanks to LDH for the work on the front end.
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post #38 of 39 Old 03-04-2012, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Not sure if it's covered in Ohlins instructions but this is something very important to check during the valve assembly:

Make sure that comp and rebound check valve shim is free and not pinched by the the check valve seat prior applying the final torque to the nut on rebound and bolt on compression valve assemblies.
Move it up with your finger and it should return in it's place by check valve waive washer.
Very important step.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>WHOOOOSH *over head*.

I have a lot of reading to do. Thanks for the pics RMB, this will help a lot, but I have NO idea what any of those parts inside the fork are even named except the ones you pointed out.

I need to watch some more videos, lol... I'm very right brained, too much so I think.

Did you replace your fork seals while you were at it?

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post #39 of 39 Old 03-05-2012, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>WHOOOOSH *over head*.

I have a lot of reading to do. Thanks for the pics RMB, this will help a lot, but I have NO idea what any of those parts inside the fork are even named except the ones you pointed out.

I need to watch some more videos, lol... I'm very right brained, too much so I think.

Did you replace your fork seals while you were at it?
The check valve shim freeplay is explained in the Ohlins instructions, not a problem. As for the seals, I did not remove the pipe from the leg so no need to change them.

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