Will an aftermarket headlight bucket work on a 2002 Honda 919? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Will an aftermarket headlight bucket work on a 2002 Honda 919?

I'm in the pursuit of getting a better headlight setup and I started thinking about the aftermarket buckets that typically come with the cheap, knockoff 7" LED kits. If you're not sure what I'm referring to, it's this...





I've been reading that 7" LED headlights will not bolt directly up to the stock bucket without breaking out the Dremel and added special bolts and spacers. If this bucket would work (meaning swap out the stock bucket with this one using the stock mounting points rather than clamp this bucket on the forks), I'd like to get one and drop in the 7" Morimoto bi-LED setup rather than hack up my perfectly good bucket.

Any and all help is appreciated!

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post #2 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 12:15 PM
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It may need something a bit deeper than that for the electrics inside the stock bucket, but there wouldn’t really be any other technical reasons for an aftermarket bucket not to fit.


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post #3 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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It may need something a bit deeper than that for the electrics inside the stock bucket, but there wouldn’t really be any other technical reasons for an aftermarket bucket not to fit.

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Is it not just the H4 connector going into the back of the bucket?

Assuming that bucket is too small, are there any kind of adapters to make the 7" LED headlight work in the stock bucket? Or do they make a drop-in 7" LED headlight for the 919?

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post #4 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 12:24 PM
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Will an aftermarket headlight bucket work on a 2002 Honda 919?

My aftermarket headlamp is H4 but has an extra cable for the halo. However, I really mean space in the back of the bucket for cables.

There are a lot of cables in there, more than you’d expect just for a headlamp and indicators.


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post #5 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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My aftermarket headlamp is H4 but has an extra cable for the halo. However, I really mean space in the back of the bucket for cables.

There are a lot of cables in there, more than you’d expect just for a headlamp and indicators.

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What aftermarket headlight do you have? And how did you get it to mount up properly?

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post #6 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 12:34 PM
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Wecade 7" Round Daymaker LED Projectior Headlight for Jeep Wrangler Motorcycle (7" Inch Black with Halo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M64QA62..._MS4eEbKR972JM

I bought another ring, made a hole on top and opened up the holes on the sides of the bucket. The things you wanted to avoid! But it’s held up well over the last couple of years.


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post #7 of 29 Old 01-06-2020, 02:35 PM
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Why not modify your stock bucket?
Want to keep it intact, why?
You just need a cheap headlight bucket like this one. It has more room like the stock bucket.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F352888593980
But these cheap buckets have thin shitty plastic. Stock is better.
You'll need a headlight rim.
https://4into1.com/7-chrome-headligh...0-gl1000-1200/
I used this type of led headlight.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F143384294690
Loads of cable and connectors in stock bucket. Some can be repositioned under tank.

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post #8 of 29 Old 01-07-2020, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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It baffles me that there isn't some kind of adapter on the market to solve such a seemingly simple problem.

I may just do the stock bucket modification and be done with it. I'm not really looking forward to doing so, but I guess you gotta do what you gotta do to make it work.

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post #9 of 29 Old 01-07-2020, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steev View Post
Wecade 7" Round Daymaker LED Projectior Headlight for Jeep Wrangler Motorcycle (7" Inch Black with Halo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M64QA62..._MS4eEbKR972JM

I bought another ring, made a hole on top and opened up the holes on the sides of the bucket. The things you wanted to avoid! But it’s held up well over the last couple of years.


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Looks like they don't sell those lights anymore.

Any idea if it's better than others? IDK what difference the designs make.

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post #10 of 29 Old 01-07-2020, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPDSKTR View Post
It baffles me that there isn't some kind of adapter on the market to solve such a seemingly simple problem.

I may just do the stock bucket modification and be done with it. I'm not really looking forward to doing so, but I guess you gotta do what you gotta do to make it work.
I forgot what the problem was, is it too thick to fit in the stock bucket?

I remember the CB450 trim ring, but I don't remember why we need one.

What happens if you don't get one?

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post #11 of 29 Old 01-07-2020, 10:40 AM
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Something to keep in mind re automotive 7"s in motorcycles.
SAE governs the lights, as would JAS and others.
The point is that SAE and others specifies the light distributions based on a standardized height above the road way.
Cars have much lower positioned headlights than motorcycles.
Hence SAE and others having different specs re light distributions for cars as compared to motorcycles.
The idea is to have a common difference between the change to high beam from low, in terms of high beam projection.
If you put an automotive unit in a motorcycle, one has to angle it down more to get the low beam correct, thus also depressing the high beam accordingly.
This is not to say that an automotive lamp can't be fitted and successfully used, but it won't be ideal.
Some day I will do the LED swap, but it will be a motorcycle spec unit that gets fitted, not an automotive one.

By the way, the funky old school headlamp mounting rings that Islandboy found for us all, have SAE standardized lamp lug locating points.
Islandboy likes this.

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post #12 of 29 Old 01-07-2020, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Something to keep in mind re automotive 7"s in motorcycles.
SAE governs the lights, as would JAS and others.
The point is that SAE and others specifies the light distributions based on a standardized height above the road way.
Cars have much lower positioned headlights than motorcycles.
Hence SAE and others having different specs re light distributions for cars as compared to motorcycles.
The idea is to have a common difference between the change to high beam from low, in terms of high beam projection.
If you put an automotive unit in a motorcycle, one has to angle it down more to get the low beam correct, thus also depressing the high beam accordingly.
This is not to say that an automotive lamp can't be fitted and successfully used, but it won't be ideal.
Some day I will do the LED swap, but it will be a motorcycle spec unit that gets fitted, not an automotive one.

By the way, the funky old school headlamp mounting rings that Islandboy found for us all, have SAE standardized lamp lug locating points.
Ahh...it all make sense now. I have noticed this very thing in regards to low/high beam. To get my low beam correct I feel the high beam also gets lowered. Too much IMO.
I might have a look for a dedicated motorcycle LED unit.
As yes the old school headlamp mounting ring works cause the older motorcycles used similar headlamps as jeeps.

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post #13 of 29 Old 01-08-2020, 02:59 AM
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post #14 of 29 Old 01-08-2020, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
That's a slik bit o' kit for sure.
I wonder how reliable the angle sensing is, in terms of expecting the unit to see a service life of decades.
No listings for Honda anything as I could see, but that matters not, as a known good adaptive solution already exists.

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post #15 of 29 Old 01-08-2020, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the trigger on the Morimoto Sealed7 1.0 since it was cheap enough and seemed to have a good beam pattern. I fully intend to properly aim my headlight once I get it installed. Sure, the high beam may be a little low, but I have a solution for that. Granted, said solution is not quite legal...

I bought a 7" LED light bar with a spot and flood combo beam. My plan is to mount it "upside-down" so the brackets are clamped high up on the forks and the light bar itself sits just below the headlight. The relay will trigger with the headlight high beam, resulting in a supplemental high beam. Combined, they ought to be the equivalent of the sun blasting out from the front of my bike.

My only real concern at this point is the extra draw on the battery. I believe the LED bar I picked up draws 36W of power (3A at 12V) and the LED high beam draws 70W (5.8A at 12V). Combined, that's roughly 106W of power (9A of current) being pulled from the battery. Granted, it won't be for very long periods of time, so there's some reassurance.

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post #16 of 29 Old 01-12-2020, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPDSKTR View Post
I pulled the trigger on the Morimoto Sealed7 1.0 since it was cheap enough and seemed to have a good beam pattern. I fully intend to properly aim my headlight once I get it installed. Sure, the high beam may be a little low, but I have a solution for that. Granted, said solution is not quite legal...

I bought a 7" LED light bar with a spot and flood combo beam. My plan is to mount it "upside-down" so the brackets are clamped high up on the forks and the light bar itself sits just below the headlight. The relay will trigger with the headlight high beam, resulting in a supplemental high beam. Combined, they ought to be the equivalent of the sun blasting out from the front of my bike.

My only real concern at this point is the extra draw on the battery. I believe the LED bar I picked up draws 36W of power (3A at 12V) and the LED high beam draws 70W (5.8A at 12V). Combined, that's roughly 106W of power (9A of current) being pulled from the battery. Granted, it won't be for very long periods of time, so there's some reassurance.
So you'll have a 7" Morimoto headlight that has a high beam that's too high, that you'll fix by mounting it up higher and aiming it lower (that could work great). Then you have a 7" LED light bar with spot/flood combo.

So what 7" LED bar do you have?

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mo...dlights-7.html


Maybe something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rigidhorse-16...bea885584bc0ce

As far as the impact on the battery, I was left stuck from what I believe is my iPhone charger.

I bought a new battery and then added a QC3 phone charger/mount. It has a switch but connects straight to the battery. I was left stuck because the battery didn't have enough to crank the engine.

I thought LED light used less power than regular bulbs. Isn't stock light around 65 watts?

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post #17 of 29 Old 01-13-2020, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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So you'll have a 7" Morimoto headlight that has a high beam that's too high, that you'll fix by mounting it up higher and aiming it lower (that could work great).
I found a video of someone who installed a 7" LED in their stock bucket using longer bolts, spacers, and weatherstripping (I actually think it was someone on this board). I plan to give that method of installation a shot. I have nylon spacers instead of aluminum and I'll be cutting them to the required size.

What do you mean by "mounting it up higher"? The headlight will be in the same place as the stock one. I may not necessarily be aiming it "lower", but it will be aimed correctly so it does not blind oncoming traffic.

Quote:
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Then you have a 7" LED light bar with spot/flood combo. So what 7" LED bar do you have?
I bought the Mictuning 7" spot-flood combo LED bar from Amazon. I believe it was something like $14... a little on the cheap side, but when all the hardware combined cost me $30, I can't really complain.

Quote:
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As far as the impact on the battery, I was left stuck from what I believe is my iPhone charger.

I bought a new battery and then added a QC3 phone charger/mount. It has a switch but connects straight to the battery. I was left stuck because the battery didn't have enough to crank the engine.

I thought LED light used less power than regular bulbs. Isn't stock light around 65 watts?
I have a USB charging port that connects to my trickle charger connector. I tend to leave it unplugged most of the time unless I know I'll be on the bike for a while and my phone needs a boost.

LEDs do use less power than halogen. However, 70W from an LED system will result in stupid amounts of light, whereas 70W from a halogen system is an okay high beam.

The LED bar's relay will be triggered by the high beam, so it shouldn't use any power as long as the high beam is not being used. If I keep getting a dead battery, the LED bar will end up going.

Also, it turns out I need a new bracket for the LED bar. The clamps I bought for the forks are too short. I either need new clamps that extend out several inches from the forks or some kind of offset bracket I can attach to the clamps that extends out far enough for the bar to bolt to.

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post #18 of 29 Old 01-13-2020, 10:34 AM
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Yeah I used long bolts and spacers to mount a led headlight but I changed to using a mounting ring instead. The bolts and spacers was a PITA and deformed the bucket slightly. Also the headlight ring gave more adjustment.
If your new led headlight has mounting lugs on its back then I recommend you go the mounting ring.

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post #19 of 29 Old 01-13-2020, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Yeah I used long bolts and spacers to mount a led headlight but I changed to using a mounting ring instead. The bolts and spacers was a PITA and deformed the bucket slightly. Also the headlight ring gave more adjustment.
If your new led headlight has mounting lugs on its back then I recommend you go the mounting ring.
The new light has mounting points on the sides, not the back.

Which mounting ring are you referring to? And what all did it ensue to get it to work?

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post #20 of 29 Old 01-13-2020, 11:24 AM
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Still dark here. I'll take a picture to show you what I mean when the sun is up.

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post #21 of 29 Old 01-13-2020, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPDSKTR View Post
I found a video of someone who installed a 7" LED in their stock bucket using longer bolts, spacers, and weatherstripping (I actually think it was someone on this board). I plan to give that method of installation a shot. I have nylon spacers instead of aluminum and I'll be cutting them to the required size.

What do you mean by "mounting it up higher"? The headlight will be in the same place as the stock one. I may not necessarily be aiming it "lower", but it will be aimed correctly so it does not blind oncoming traffic.



I bought the Mictuning 7" spot-flood combo LED bar from Amazon. I believe it was something like $14... a little on the cheap side, but when all the hardware combined cost me $30, I can't really complain.



I have a USB charging port that connects to my trickle charger connector. I tend to leave it unplugged most of the time unless I know I'll be on the bike for a while and my phone needs a boost.

LEDs do use less power than halogen. However, 70W from an LED system will result in stupid amounts of light, whereas 70W from a halogen system is an okay high beam.

The LED bar's relay will be triggered by the high beam, so it shouldn't use any power as long as the high beam is not being used. If I keep getting a dead battery, the LED bar will end up going.

Also, it turns out I need a new bracket for the LED bar. The clamps I bought for the forks are too short. I either need new clamps that extend out several inches from the forks or some kind of offset bracket I can attach to the clamps that extends out far enough for the bar to bolt to.
This reminded me of something I just learned not long ago. I bought an Arduino kit about a year ago to prototype a few things and I learned about PWM Pulse Width Modulation and how it's more efficient that other methods for lights and motors.


https://www.sciencedaily.com/release...0904104655.htm

Some systems just burn off the extra power thru heat. I wonder which system those lights use. I think PWM is more expensive. It would be interesting to see if you did a full conversion (all the lights) would it save enough to power extra lights in the front.

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post #22 of 29 Old 01-13-2020, 03:52 PM
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Pic shows the mount lugs. These key into the headlight rim assembly.
See post #7 for the link to the cb500 headlight rim assembly.
There are some issues with using bolts and spacers like in that video.
No issues with using the cb500 headlight rim. It all depends on if your led light is suitable and your willing to work on your OEM headlight bucket.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20200114_093058-1_1578955671803.jpg (93.0 KB, 2 views)

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post #23 of 29 Old 01-14-2020, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to sell the headlight to a coworker. I got frustrated during the install attempt yesterday and figured it's just not worth my time, effort, or extra money, especially since I rarely (I mean RARELY) ride at night.

My light bar plan also didn't pan out. I don't have a good place to mount it, so I'll be returning it along with the hardware. LED pods are now on the table, though...

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post #24 of 29 Old 01-14-2020, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Update.

I found something that seems somewhat promising. The bucket is much deeper than that of the one I posted originally, so it should be able to accommodate most, if not all, the wiring that hangs out in the stock bucket. Unfortunately, I didn't think to get the stock bucket dimensions, so it's hard to tell exactly how different they are.







I'm unsure if the ring holds the LED in place or if it's held in place by the bolts on the sides. If the former, then a simple bolt, washer, and nut setup would be perfect for getting it mounted. If the latter, I guess it's back to measuring out spacers or something.

And I'll admit... the X cover would look fantastic on my bike.

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post #25 of 29 Old 01-15-2020, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPDSKTR View Post
Update.

I found something that seems somewhat promising. The bucket is much deeper than that of the one I posted originally, so it should be able to accommodate most, if not all, the wiring that hangs out in the stock bucket. Unfortunately, I didn't think to get the stock bucket dimensions, so it's hard to tell exactly how different they are.







I'm unsure if the ring holds the LED in place or if it's held in place by the bolts on the sides. If the former, then a simple bolt, washer, and nut setup would be perfect for getting it mounted. If the latter, I guess it's back to measuring out spacers or something.

And I'll admit... the X cover would look fantastic on my bike.
So this is a whole new light? Can you post a link or maybe some more info?

Seems like an easy fix is to replace the ring with one that's known to work or make a spacer.

I'd like to know about the pattern, I could really use something that helps with late night rides where you never know what's coming at you.

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post #26 of 29 Old 01-15-2020, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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So this is a whole new light? Can you post a link or maybe some more info?

Seems like an easy fix is to replace the ring with one that's known to work or make a spacer.

I'd like to know about the pattern, I could really use something that helps with late night rides where you never know what's coming at you.
Yep... whole new assembly. I've concluded this would be the EASIEST route. No cutting this, no aligning that... nada.

I tried the spacer thing. My headlight bucket still started to deform on me. I said screw it and took it all back apart. I was ready to go back to stock, but in my frustrations, I managed to find this light.

Link: https://us-alchemyparts.glopalstore....cer-scrambler/

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post #27 of 29 Old 01-15-2020, 02:25 PM
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Something like this would probably work too. Would drop straight into stock bucket.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32871216826.html

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post #28 of 29 Old 01-15-2020, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Something like this would probably work too. Would drop straight into stock bucket.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32871216826.html
Nice find! I assume the screws on the top and bottom just screw right into that, no modifications needed?

I'll have to see how this pans out with the full headlight assembly. Trying to negotiate the price a bit since they're in the UK and I LOVE the look of the X on the lens. When I was shopping for bikes, the first picture I saw of my bike on Craigslist showed the bike with a black X over the headlight, but it was electrical tape. I don't rightly know why I liked the look of it, but it roped me in pretty good.

This new one is all metal and the X doesn't seem to block any of the light.

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post #29 of 29 Old 01-15-2020, 03:01 PM
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That X lens does look mean. Make sure there is room in the back for the 919 wiring loom. Some wiring can be repositioned under fuel tank. If you have removed pair valve system there is room to put some wiring in that spot.

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