Thanks for the pic MCROMO44! Though not to scale and not perfect at the moment.... should be a pretty good guide when I go to hand-draw my templates....
You may find some of the following info of help. It's the standard cover message I use anytime I send out the templates to a WT member.
I just discovered that the pdf file for the tank pads was corrupted.
I have rescanned and attached the templates for you.
Also see the picture of how the three tank grips on each side are located.
You should find the fit very good with no trimming needed.
They are the ones I used and I did not have to do any trimming to get the fit shown in the pictures
Use one side of the pattern for left and then flip it over to use as a right side pattern.
If you do the upper pad also, try to fit its bottom edge quite close to the main pad.
The top of the upper pad is on the limit of what will stay in place, due to the tank curvature in that area.
A number of people have asked what material I used, and it was Tech Spec "Snake Skin". It is very grippy, wears wells, and fairly easy to work with.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
Sandy in Calgary
PS: Additional info as copied from the Wrist Twister's Thread
Someone asked about tools and tricks.
Do the layout work on the back of the grip pad.
I did my long line cutting with Wiss MPC-3 general purpose shears.
I did my tight radius cutting with Wiss M7 left hand turn sheet metal shears.
If I was a left handed cutter, I would have used a M6.
I did my edge chamfering with a right angled grinder with a hard disc on it.
(the typical rigid fibre type that comes standard fitted with such grinders)
Clean the tank with Windex, and make sure all wax etc is gone so the grip pad can have max stick to the paint.
I used painters tape on the tank for the second side re the top grip.
Used the first side as a datum, then mirrored the forward most point and ran the tape edge to there. This is not really necessary, but it helps, especially if you find yourself moving the pad around to get the perfect spot. At least a bit of tape at one point or two will give you additional reference points to compare to as you do any slight relocations in an effort to find that perfect spot.
The upper grip pad is on the ragged edge of what can be made to fit and not lift off at the top edge due to tank curvature. Take your time aligning before touching, but the Snake Skin can easily be pulled off and re-contacted until you have it exactly where you want it.
I used a heat gun to set the adhesive.
(It was too cold when I did it)
Don't do this in your garage with the door closed !
The gasoline starts cooking off light ends and the tank vents and it smells and is a safety hazard.
Better is a hot day in the sun, but if you don't have that, a heat gun works, and much better than a hair drier.
(My heat gun is a red hot wire coil forced hot air type. It is ancient, but I assume they still exist)
Later Notes :
If you want to put tank grip pads on, I found no templates existed for the 919.
I bought do it yourself kits of Tech Spec "Snake Skin" and got out the drafting kit and went to work.
We're talking about grippy rubber pads on the sides of the tank that your legs won't slip and slide all over on, like they will on a painted tank at Track Days.
It also cuts down heat loss on cold days when your jeans are touching an ice cold tank.
There are 3 pieces for each side, not just one as is the norm. I have way more area gripped.